This hanging holder stacks three round mesh baskets in a single column, each sized to hold one standard toilet roll. Two solid straps run up the sides, link the baskets, and meet in a short tab that wraps around a wooden ring. You hang the ring from a wall hook.
The whole piece is worked in one warm caramel tan. The baskets have an open grid pattern of square windows framed by thick bars, with a solid base, a solid band at the bottom, and a rolled rim at the top. The look is natural and woven, a lot like rattan, and suits a neutral bathroom.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and about 20.5 in (52.1 cm) long from the bottom of the ring to the base of the lowest basket. Each basket is about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall.
To make it, you crochet three identical baskets in the round from the base up, then two long straps worked flat. The straps are sewn to the sides of the baskets. Once the straps are on, you add the rim border to each basket and then work the hanging tab across the tops of both straps.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide x 20.5 in (52.1 cm) long, not counting the ring
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 5 (3 baskets, 2 straps; the tab is worked off the straps)
- Layout: 3 baskets in 1 vertical column, 1.5 in (3.8 cm) apart
- Piece size: each basket 5.5 in (14.0 cm) diameter x 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall; each strap about 1 in (2.5 cm) wide x 19.25 in (48.9 cm) long
- Basket wall before border: 3.25 in (8.3 cm)
- Border (rim) depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
Materials
Yarn: Use a firm worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the basket shape, copes with bathroom humidity, and keeps the grid windows crisp. Acrylic will work, but it gives a softer basket that sags more.
- Caramel tan: 250 g, about 400 m (437 yd)
- About 55 g / 88 m per basket (165 g / 264 m for all three)
- About 35 g / 56 m for both straps and the tab
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
- 1 wooden ring, about 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
- Tapestry needle
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Scissors and tape measure
- One toilet roll or a jar about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide, for blocking
These quantities include a margin of roughly 25% for your swatch, tension differences, and weaving in ends.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- BLO – back loop only
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
- rev sc – reverse single crochet
Special stitch – rev sc (crab stitch): Do not turn. Working from left to right (right to left if you crochet left-handed), insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops. This makes a firm, twisted, rolled edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 15 sc and 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc worked flat or in rounds. One mesh round plus one sc round measures 0.75 in (1.9 cm) tall.
Make one basket before anything else. It is your real gauge test. Check it at these points:
- After Round 6 (36 sts): base measures 3 in (7.6 cm) across.
- After Round 11 (66 sts): base measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and lies flat.
- After Round 20: wall measures 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall.
- After Round 22: basket measures 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall and a roll drops in easily.
If the base is too big (over 5.75 in / 14.6 cm), go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small (under 5.25 in / 13.3 cm) or a roll will not fit, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. If the base ruffles, you are crocheting the increases loosely, so tighten up a little or go down a hook size. If it cups, go up a size.
Basket (Make 3)
Work in joined rounds. Do not turn. The ch 1 at the start of a round does not count as a stitch.
Base
Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, sl st to first sc. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, rep around, sl st to first sc. (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around, sl st to first sc. (24 sts)
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around, sl st to first sc. (30 sts)
Round 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st, rep around, sl st to first sc. (36 sts)
Checkpoint: 3 in (7.6 cm) across.
Rounds 7–11: In each round, work 1 more sc between increases than in the round before, so that each round has 6 increases.
- Round 7: (42 sts)
- Round 8: (48 sts)
- Round 9: (54 sts)
- Round 10: (60 sts)
- Round 11: (66 sts)
Checkpoint: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across, flat.
Walls
Round 12 (turning round): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, sl st to first sc. (66 sts) The free front loops make a crisp fold, so the wall stands up straight.
Round 13 (mesh): Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), skip next st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, rep around, sl st to 3rd ch of beginning ch-4. (33 dc + 33 ch-1 sps = 66 sts)
Round 14 (bar): Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, rep around, sl st to first sc. (66 sts)
Rounds 15–20: Rep Rounds 13–14 three more times. (66 sts in each round)
Begin each mesh round in the joining st, so each dc sits on the sc directly above the dc below it. This stacks the dc into straight vertical posts. The sc rounds form the thick horizontal bars, and together they make the square grid windows.
You now have 4 rows of windows, 33 windows per row.
Checkpoint: wall is 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall. Do not work the rim yet. Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.
Placing markers: The round joins form the seam, and this side faces the wall. Count from the joining st. On Round 20, mark sts 17–20 and sts 50–53. These are the strap positions, exactly opposite each other (33 sts apart).
Straps (Make 2)
Row 1: Ch 5, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (4 sts)
Rows 2–77: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (4 sts)
Checkpoint: 1 in (2.5 cm) wide, 19.25 in (48.9 cm) long.
Fasten off the first strap. Leave the second strap on the hook; you will use it for the tab.
Strap row map (bottom to top):
- Rows 1–15: Basket 3 (bottom). Rows 1–13 go on the wall and rows 14–15 on the rim.
- Rows 16–21: gap, 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- Rows 22–36: Basket 2 (middle)
- Rows 37–42: gap, 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- Rows 43–57: Basket 1 (top)
- Rows 58–77: rise to the tab, 5 in (12.7 cm)
Check the total: 15 + 6 + 15 + 6 + 15 + 20 = 77 rows.
Make All Pieces
All pieces are caramel tan:
- 3 baskets, about 55 g / 88 m each
- 2 straps (tab included), about 35 g / 56 m total
Layout grid:
[ ring ]
[ tab ]
/ \
strap strap
| [ Basket 1 – top ] |
| 1.5 in gap |
| [ Basket 2 – middle ] |
| 1.5 in gap |
| [ Basket 3 – bottom ] |
Joining
Method: whipstitch with the yarn tail, on the outside of the basket.
- Lay Basket 3 seam side down. Set strap row 1 on the wall so its 4 foundation sts line up with Round 12 under markers 17–20.
- Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each sc round of the wall matches 1 strap row, and each mesh round matches 2 strap rows. Round 12 (1) + four mesh rounds (8) + four sc rounds (4) = 13 rows. Strap rows 1–13 cover Rounds 12–20 exactly, with the 4 strap sts over marked sts 17–20.
- Whipstitch along both long edges and the bottom edge. Catch the dc posts in the mesh rounds, not the open windows.
- Repeat on the opposite side with the second strap at sts 50–53.
- Leave strap rows 14–21 free. Attach Basket 2 at rows 22–34 and Basket 1 at rows 43–55 the same way.
Tension: Keep your stitches snug but not tight. If you pull too hard, the wall puckers and the windows close up. Before you tie off each side, check that the strap lies flat with no twist.
Size checkpoint: Lay the piece out flat. The rims are not worked yet, so each stretch of free strap between baskets (for example, rows 14–21) measures 2 in (5.1 cm). From the bottom of Basket 3 to the top of Basket 1’s wall, it should measure 3 x 3.25 in + 2 x 2 in = 13.75 in (34.9 cm).
Border
The border is the rolled rim on each basket, plus the tab.
Border gauge: 15 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the body.
Join the yarn to any st of Round 20 behind a strap, on the wall side.
Round 21: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (66 sts)
- Per half: 33 front + 33 back
- Between straps: 29 + 4 (under strap) + 29 + 4 (under strap) = 66
Round 22: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, sl st to first st. Fasten off. (66 sts: 29 + 4 + 29 + 4)
Tack strap rows 14–15 (rows 35–36 and 56–57 on the upper baskets) over the outside of the rim. Each gap now measures 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
Why the math works: The rim has the same 66 sts as the wall, so it rises straight with no flare. It is 2 rounds tall, which matches the 2 strap rows set aside for it. That brings each basket to 13 + 2 = 15 rows, or 3.75 in (9.5 cm).
Tab: Pick up the second strap again, after Row 77. Hold the first strap beside it with right sides facing you and both straps untwisted.
- Row T1: Ch 1, sc 4 across Strap 2, sc 4 across Row 77 of Strap 1, turn. (8 sts)
- Row T2: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts, sc2tog, turn. (6 sts)
- Rows T3–T14: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (6 sts)
The tab is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) long. Wrap rows T8–T14 over the ring toward the back. Whipstitch Row T14 to the back of Row T5. Fasten off.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along the strap edges or inside the solid sc bars.
- Wet the holder with a spray bottle until it is damp, not soaked.
- Slide a toilet roll or jar into each basket. Push out the base until it sits flat and the walls stand straight.
- Pull each mesh round gently in line so the windows are square.
- Lay the straps flat, check the 1.5 in (3.8 cm) gaps, and pin them.
- Let it dry completely, about 24 hours. Then take out the forms and hang the holder.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each basket has 66 sts in every round from Round 11 on
- Every basket has 4 rows of 33 square windows, and the posts stack straight
- Each basket is 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall
- Straps are exactly opposite each other, untwisted, and 77 rows long
- Both gaps are 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- All three seams face the wall
- The tab is sewn securely and the ring cannot slip out
- No loose ends show
Troubleshooting
- Posts slant in a spiral: You started a mesh round in the wrong stitch. Always begin in the joining stitch.
- Base cups or ruffles: Recheck your counts, then change hook size.
- Basket leans forward: The straps are off center. Move them so they sit exactly 33 sts apart.
- Gaps are uneven: Undo the sewing and line up the row numbers with the strap row map.
- Rim flares: Your rev sc is too loose. Redo it with a smaller hook.
- Roll won’t fit: Make the basket again with one more increase round (72 sts) and work the mesh as 36 repeats.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat, reshaping each basket around a roll to dry. Do not tumble dry, because it can shrink cotton and make the grid uneven.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. The swatch is 15 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). The base is 66 sts, 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across. The wall is 3.25 in (8.3 cm), and the rim adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm) for a 3.75 in (9.5 cm) basket. Each strap is 77 rows, 19.25 in (48.9 cm). The finished holder is about 20.5 in (52.1 cm) long. If each checkpoint matches, the next stage will too.
Happy crocheting!