This two-tier hanging organizer puts two round cotton baskets on one wall hook. Each basket has a firm, flat base and solid lower walls, then a band of open fans that spread upward like small sunrises. A twisted crab-stitch rim finishes the top edge.
The whole organizer uses one natural cream cotton, and two light wooden dowels add a warm, Scandinavian look. It suits a bathroom shelf-free wall, an entryway or a nursery. The pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.
Each basket measures 9.5 in (24.1 cm) across and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall. Hung up, the organizer is about 19.4 in (49.3 cm) from hook to bottom.
Here is how it’s built. You work each basket in joined rounds: a flat increasing circle, a back-loop turning ridge, solid sides, three lace rounds, a solid top band and a crab-stitch rim. Then you make three slip-stitch cords, wrap them around two dowels and sew them to the baskets.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished basket size: 9.5 in (24.1 cm) diameter × 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall
- Total hanging length: 19.4 in (49.3 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 4.0 mm (US G-6)
- Number of pieces: 2 baskets, 2 side cords, 1 hanger cord
- Layout: 2 baskets stacked vertically (1 column × 2 tiers)
- Basket size before rim: 9.5 in (24.1 cm) × 4.3 in (10.9 cm) tall
- Rim (border) depth: 0.2 in (0.5 cm)
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth, firm 100% cotton or cotton-blend worsted yarn. Cotton holds the basket’s shape and survives damp bathrooms. Avoid soft acrylic, because the walls will slump.
- Cream: 200 g / 340 m (372 yd). Each basket uses about 80 g (136 m) and the three cords use about 10 g (17 m).
These quantities include a margin of roughly 15% for your gauge swatch and tension differences.
Tools:
– 4.0 mm (US G-6) crochet hook
– 2 wooden dowels, 11 in (27.9 cm) long and 5/16 in (0.8 cm) in diameter
– 4 wooden beads, 3/4 in (1.9 cm), with holes that fit the dowel ends, plus wood glue
– Tapestry needle
– Stitch markers
– Measuring tape
– Scissors
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Special stitch, fan: Work [dc, (ch 1, dc) 4 times] into the same stitch. That’s 5 dc and 4 ch-1 spaces.
Reverse sc (crab stitch): Work from left to right (right-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops.
Slip-stitch cord: Chain the stated number. Then sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and in the back bump of each ch across.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in joined sc rounds.
Cord gauge: 4 slip-stitch cord sts = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Test first: Work base Rounds 1–10 as your swatch. It should measure 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
- Too big: go down to a 3.5 mm hook.
- Too small: go up to a 4.5 mm hook.
A swatch that’s too big will give you floppy walls.
Checkpoints for each basket:
– Round 10 (60 sts): 4.75 in (12.1 cm) diameter
– Round 15 (90 sts): 7.2 in (18.3 cm) diameter
– Round 20 (120 sts): 9.5 in (24.1 cm) diameter, circumference 30 in (76.2 cm)
– Round 28: sides measure 1.75 in (4.4 cm) above the turning ridge
– Round 31: sides measure 3 in (7.6 cm)
– Round 37: sides measure 4.3 in (10.9 cm)
If a checkpoint is off by more than 0.25 in (0.6 cm), change your hook size and rework that section before moving on.
Basket (Make 2)
Join every round with a sl st to the first sc and start every round with ch 1. The ch 1 never counts as a stitch. Joined rounds keep the seam stacked in one column, and that column becomes stitch 1, where a cord will cover it later.
Base
Round 1: Work 6 sc in a magic ring and join. (6 sts)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st. (12 sts)
Round 3: Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st; repeat around. (18 sts)
Rounds 4–20: In Round n, work sc in the next (n − 2) sts, 2 sc in next st; repeat 6 times. Each round adds 6 sts, so Round n has 6 × n sts.
To keep the circle round instead of hexagonal, start each even-numbered round with half of that round’s sc count. Then work the repeat around and finish with the remaining sc.
Here is each round’s full count:
| Round | Sts | Round | Sts | Round | Sts |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 4 | 24 | 10 | 60 | 16 | 96 |
| 5 | 30 | 11 | 66 | 17 | 102 |
| 6 | 36 | 12 | 72 | 18 | 108 |
| 7 | 42 | 13 | 78 | 19 | 114 |
| 8 | 48 | 14 | 84 | 20 | 120 |
| 9 | 54 | 15 | 90 |
Lay the base flat and check: it should measure 9.5 in (24.1 cm) and lie flat with no cupping or ruffling.
Solid Sides
Round 21 (turning ridge): Sc BLO in each st around. (120 sts)
Rounds 22–28: Sc in each st around. (120 sts)
The walls now stand straight up.
Lace Fan Band
Round 29 (fan round): Ch 1, sc in the same st. Ch 3, sk 5 sts, fan in next st, ch 3, sk 5 sts, sc in next st; repeat around.
On the last repeat, end after the “sk 5 sts” and join to the first sc. Each 12-st repeat holds 1 sc and 1 fan.
Count: 10 fans (50 dc and 40 ch-1 sps), 10 sc and 20 ch-3 sps.
Round 30 (spoke round): Ch 4 (counts as tr). Ch 3, sk ch-3 sp, dc in first dc of fan, (ch 1, dc in next dc) 4 times, ch 3, sk ch-3 sp, tr in next sc; repeat around.
On the last repeat, leave off the final tr and join to the top of the beginning ch-4.
Count: 10 tr, 50 dc, 20 ch-3 sps and 40 ch-1 sps. Each spoke of the fan is now twice as long. The tall tr between fans brings the low points up to the fan tops and leaves open diamonds on either side.
Round 31 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in the same st. 3 sc in ch-3 sp, sc in each of next 5 dc (skip the ch-1 sps), 3 sc in next ch-3 sp, sc in next tr; repeat around.
On the last repeat, leave off the final sc and join.
Count: 60 sc worked 1-per-stitch (10 tr + 50 dc) + 60 sc worked into the 20 ch-3 sps (3 each) = 120 sts. That’s 12 per repeat, so the top band matches the base exactly.
Top Band
Rounds 32–37: Sc in each st around. (120 sts)
The basket should now measure 4.3 in (10.9 cm) tall. Don’t fasten off; the rim comes next.
Make All Pieces
Everything is cream. Make:
- 2 baskets: about 80 g (136 m) each
- 2 side cords: ch 53, then work a slip-stitch cord along it (52 sts, 13 in / 33.0 cm each)
- 1 hanger cord: ch 65, then work a slip-stitch cord along it (64 sts, 16 in / 40.6 cm)
Glue a wooden bead to each end of both dowels and let the glue dry.
Layout grid (hanging order, top to bottom):
[ wall hook ]
/ \
hanger cord
/ \
[====== top dowel ======]
| |
[ UPPER BASKET (A) ]
| |
[===== lower dowel =====]
| |
[ LOWER BASKET (B) ]
Joining
Method: Whipstitch the cords to the baskets with the tapestry needle and matching yarn. Sew 1 cord st to 1 basket round.
Mark the attachment columns: On each basket, place a marker in stitch 1 (the seam column) and in stitch 61, directly opposite it. Both columns fall on a tr column between fans, so the cords sit in the gaps and don’t cover any lace. The two markers are 60 sts apart on each half, which is 15 in (38.1 cm) of the 30 in (76.2 cm) circumference.
Map out each side cord (52 sts):
– Sts 1–4, 1 in (2.5 cm): collar wrapped around the top dowel
– Sts 5–12, 2 in (5.1 cm): hangs free
– Sts 13–30, 4.5 in (11.4 cm), 18 sts: sewn down the upper basket from the rim to the turning ridge, covering 18 rows (Rounds 21–37 plus the rim)
– Sts 31–36, 1.5 in (3.8 cm): free gap
– Sts 37–40, 1 in (2.5 cm): collar around the lower dowel
– Sts 41–48, 2 in (5.1 cm): hangs free
– Sts 49–52, 1 in (2.5 cm): sewn inside the lower basket, covering its top 4 rows
That’s 4 + 8 + 18 + 6 + 4 + 8 + 4 = 52 sts.
Collars: Wrap the 4 collar sts around the dowel and sew the cord to itself. Place each side collar 0.75 in (1.9 cm) from the dowel end, so the two side cords hang 9.5 in (24.1 cm) apart. That matches the basket diameter, so the cords drop straight down.
Hanger: Sts 1–4 and 61–64 of the hanger cord form collars just outside the side collars. Sts 5–32 and 33–60 make two 7 in (17.8 cm) legs that meet over the hook. With about 10 in (25.4 cm) between the collars, the triangle is 4.9 in (12.4 cm) tall.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch snug enough to hide the yarn, but not so tight that the basket wall puckers.
Size checkpoint: Hang the organizer. It should measure 4.9 + 2 + 4.5 + 1.5 + 2 + 4.5 = 19.4 in (49.3 cm) from hook to bottom.
Border (Rim)
Work the rim on each basket before you join the cords.
Border gauge: Crab stitch matches sc gauge: 4 sts = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Round 38: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around and join. That’s 120 sts: 60 on the front half (sts 1–60) and 60 on the back half (sts 61–120). Fasten off and weave in the end.
Why the math works: The rim has one rev sc per top-band stitch, with no increases or skips. The circumference stays at 30 in (76.2 cm), so the rim doesn’t flare or draw in. Stitches 1 and 61 still sit exactly opposite each other, ready for the cords. The rim adds 0.2 in (0.5 cm), bringing each basket to 4.5 in (11.4 cm).
Final Blocking
- Wet both baskets and roll them in a towel to remove excess water.
- Stuff each basket firmly with a towel or a 9.5 in (24.1 cm) bowl so the walls stand straight.
- Pin the fans open so each spoke fans out evenly and the diamonds stay open.
- Smooth the base flat and press the turning ridge into a crisp edge.
- Let them dry completely, which takes about 24 hours.
- Check the diameter (9.5 in / 24.1 cm) and the height (4.5 in / 11.4 cm), then join the cords.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Both bases lie flat and measure 9.5 in (24.1 cm).
- Each basket has 10 fans, each with 5 spokes.
- Rounds 31–38 each have 120 sts.
- The seam column (st 1) sits under a cord.
- The cords hang straight and parallel, 9.5 in (24.1 cm) apart.
- The collars are tight and don’t slide along the dowels.
- The beads are glued firmly.
- The total hanging length is 19.4 in (49.3 cm).
- All ends are woven in on the inside.
Troubleshooting
- Base cups upward: Your tension is too tight on the increases. Go up a hook size for the base only.
- Base ruffles: You probably have extra stitches. Recount; each round should be a multiple of 6.
- Fans lean to one side: You skipped 4 or 6 sts instead of 5. Each repeat must total 12 sts.
- Round 31 is not 120: Check that you worked 3 sc in every ch-3 sp and skipped every ch-1 sp.
- Walls slump: Your gauge is too loose. Remake with a smaller hook, or use a stiffer cotton.
- Basket tilts when hung: One cord is sewn higher than the other. Re-sew both from cord st 13 at the rim.
- Rim flares: You worked into the same stitch twice. Keep it to one rev sc per st.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, reshape, and dry flat over a bowl. Remove the dowels before washing if your beads aren’t sealed.
Final Notes
The measurement chain:
- Gauge of 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Base of 120 sts = 9.5 in (24.1 cm)
- Sides of 8 solid rounds = 1.75 in (4.4 cm)
- Lace band = 1.25 in (3.2 cm)
- Top band of 6 rounds = 1.3 in (3.3 cm)
- Rim = 0.2 in (0.5 cm)
- Basket height = 4.5 in (11.4 cm)
- Cords of 52 sts = 13 in (33.0 cm), giving a finished organizer 19.4 in (49.3 cm) long
Check each link in the chain and the organizer will hang straight.
Happy crocheting!