This hanging organizer has two round lavender baskets stacked one above the other. Each basket has a solid base, an openwork band of fans and lattice, and a firm corded rim. Wooden dowels and crocheted cords link the baskets and hang the whole set from one wall hook.
It’s made in one soft lilac cotton, so the look stays calm and works well in a bathroom, nursery or entryway. The lace band shows what’s inside, and the solid base and rim keep the baskets sturdy enough for bottles, brushes and spare toilet rolls.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket is 8.5 in (21.6 cm) across the base and 5 in (12.7 cm) tall, and measures about 10 in (25.4 cm) wide when hung. The assembled organizer is 16 in (40.6 cm) from the top dowel to the bottom of the lower basket, or about 21 in (53.3 cm) including the hanging peak.
You’ll crochet a flat circle, work straight walls with a lace band, add a corded rim, then make three slip-stitch cords and assemble everything with three dowels.
Finished Size and Construction
- Basket size: 8.5 in (21.6 cm) base diameter, 27 in (68.6 cm) circumference, 5 in (12.7 cm) tall
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 5 crocheted pieces (2 baskets, 2 side cords, 1 hanging cord), plus 3 dowels
- Layout: Vertical stack: hanging cord, top dowel, upper basket, lower basket
- Basket height before border: 4.75 in (12.1 cm)
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm)
- Hung size: 11 in (27.9 cm) wide at the dowels, 16 in (40.6 cm) from top dowel to bottom of lower basket
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth, firmly twisted worsted-weight cotton. Cotton holds the basket shape and makes the lace look crisp. Avoid acrylic, because it sags under weight.
- Lavender: 200 g / 310 m (339 yd)
- Each basket: about 85 g / 132 m
- All three cords together: about 5 g / 8 m
These quantities include a margin of about 25 g for swatching and tension differences.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
– 4 stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– 3 wooden dowels, 3/8 in (1.0 cm) diameter, each cut to 11 in (27.9 cm)
– Fine sandpaper for the dowel ends
– Measuring tape
– A bowl or box about 8.5 in (21.6 cm) across, for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet
- BLO: back loop only
- sp: space
- st(s): stitch(es)
- MR: magic ring
- rev sc: reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Special stitches
- Fan base: (dc, [ch 1, dc] 4 times) all in the same stitch. That makes 5 dc and 4 ch-1 sps.
- Rev sc: Working from left to right (right-handers), insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops.
- Slip-stitch cord: Chain the stated number, then sl st into the back bump of each chain back along the row.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc × 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in continuous-joined sc rounds.
Cord gauge: 4 slip-stitch-cord sts = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Make one complete basket before starting the second, and check it at each stage:
- Rnd 6 (36 sts): about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across
- Rnd 12 (72 sts): about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across
- Rnd 18 (108 sts): 8.5 in (21.6 cm) across, 27 in (68.6 cm) around
- After Rnd 24: the solid wall measures 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
- After Rnd 28: the lace band measures 2.25 in (5.7 cm)
- After Rnd 32: the basket is 4.75 in (12.1 cm) tall
- After the border: the basket is 5 in (12.7 cm) tall
If the base is too big or ruffles, go down to a 4.5 mm (US 7) hook. If it’s too small or cups early, go up to a 5.5 mm (US I-9). Fix the size at Rnd 6. Don’t change the stitch counts, because the lace repeat needs exactly 108 stitches.
Basket (Make 2)
Join every round with a sl st to the first stitch. The ch 1 at the start of a round doesn’t count as a stitch. Keep the round seam at the center back of the basket.
Base
Rnd 1: Make a MR, ch 1, work 6 sc in the ring, pull it closed and join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in next st, inc; repeat 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnds 4–18: Ch 1, sc in each of the next (round number − 2) sts, inc; repeat 6 times. For example, Rnd 4 is sc 2, inc and Rnd 18 is sc 16, inc.
On even rounds, work the first repeat’s sc as half before the increase and half after it. Then work the rest of the round in pattern. This staggers the increases and keeps the circle round instead of hexagonal.
Each round adds 6 stitches:
- Rnd 4: 24 sts
- Rnd 6: 36 sts
- Rnd 9: 54 sts
- Rnd 12: 72 sts
- Rnd 15: 90 sts
- Rnd 18: 108 sts
Check the 8.5 in (21.6 cm) checkpoint now.
Solid Wall
Rnd 19: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. (108 sts) The unused front loops form a crisp fold line at the base.
Rnds 20–24: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (108 sts)
Lace Band
The lace repeat is 12 sts, which measures 3 in (7.6 cm). With 108 stitches you get 9 repeats.
Rnd 25 (fan bases): Ch 1, sc in the first st, ch 5, skip 5 sts, fan base in the next st, ch 5, skip 5 sts, sc in the next st. Repeat around, ending the last repeat after “skip 5 sts”, then join to the first sc.
Count: 9 sc, 9 fan bases (45 dc), 18 ch-5 sps. Each repeat uses 1 + 5 + 1 + 5 = 12 sts.
Rnd 26 (open fans): Ch 1, sc in the first sc. Ch 4, then work into the fan: dc in the first dc, (ch 1, dc in the next ch-1 sp, ch 1, dc in the next dc) 4 times. Ch 4, sc in the next sc. Repeat around, leaving out the last sc, and join to the first sc.
Count: 9 sc, 9 fans of 9 dc each (81 dc, 72 ch-1 sps), 18 ch-4 sps.
Each fan now has 9 dc with 8 ch-1 sps between them. Number those ch-1 sps 1 to 8, and the dc 1 to 9. Dc 5 is the center.
Rnd 27 (lattice arches): Ch 4 (counts as tr) in the first sc. Ch 4, sc in ch-1 sp 2 of the next fan, ch 4, sc in center dc 5, ch 4, sc in ch-1 sp 7, ch 4, tr in the next sc. Repeat around, leaving out the last tr, and join to the top of the beginning ch-4.
Count: 9 tr, 27 sc, 36 ch-4 sps. The tr fills the valley between fans, and the arches form the first half of each diamond.
Rnd 28 (diamonds): Sl st into the first ch-4 sp, ch 1, sc in the same sp, ch 4, sc in the next ch-4 sp. Repeat around, ending with ch 4, and join to the first sc.
Count: 36 sc, 36 ch-4 sps.
Rnd 29 (conversion round): Ch 1, work 3 sc in each ch-4 sp around.
Count: 36 sps × 3 sc = 108 sts. This round places 3 sts per ch-4 sp and skips the Rnd 28 sc, which brings you back to exactly 108 for the rim.
Rim
Rnds 30–32: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (108 sts)
Dowel markers: With the round seam at center back, count from the first stitch of Rnd 32. Place marker A in st 19 and marker B in st 90.
- Back section: 36 unmarked sts (sts 91–108 and 1–18), which measures 9 in (22.9 cm)
- Front section: 72 sts (sts 19–90, including both markers)
The two sections add up to 108.
Finish each basket with the Border section before assembly.
Make All Pieces
| Piece | Qty | Color | Instructions |
|---|---|---|---|
| Basket | 2 | Lavender | Rnds 1–32 plus Border |
| Side cord | 2 | Lavender | Ch 96, slip-stitch cord, 24 in (61.0 cm) |
| Hanging cord | 1 | Lavender | Ch 72, slip-stitch cord, 18 in (45.7 cm) |
Leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail at both ends of each cord for sewing.
Layout:
[hook]
/ \ hanging cord, 18 in (45.7 cm)
o======================o top dowel
| | side cords, 4 in (10.2 cm) drop
o=====[upper basket]===o upper basket rim dowel
| | 7 in (17.8 cm) rim to rim
o=====[lower basket]===o lower basket rim dowel
Joining
Method: The dowels go through the baskets’ rims, and the cords wrap around the dowel ends.
Stitch-to-stitch logic:
- On each basket, push a dowel from the outside to the inside through Rnd 31, just below marker A.
- Run the dowel along the inside of the 36-stitch back section and push it out just below marker B.
- Center the dowel so 1 in (2.5 cm) sticks out on each side. The 9 in (22.9 cm) back section plus the two 1 in (2.5 cm) ends equals the 11 in (27.9 cm) dowel.
- Once hung, the back section lies flat against the wall and the 72-stitch front bows out into a D shape.
Cords:
- Top end: Fold the top 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of a side cord back into a loop and sew it shut. Slide the loop over one end of the top dowel.
- Upper basket: Measure a 4 in (10.2 cm) drop to the upper basket’s dowel end. Wrap the cord 2 full turns around that end, then tack the wraps together with the tail.
- Lower basket: Measure a 7 in (17.8 cm) drop to the lower basket’s dowel end. Wrap 2 turns, then use up any extra length in a third turn. Sew the end down securely.
- Second side: Repeat steps 1–3 with the other side cord on the other side.
- Hanging cord: Fold 1.5 in (3.8 cm) at each end into a loop and sew it. Slip the loops over the top dowel ends, outside the side cords. That leaves 15 in (38.1 cm) of free cord, which forms a peak about 5 in (12.7 cm) high.
Tension advice: Wrap the cords firmly but don’t cinch them, because tight wraps twist the dowel. Sew through the cord’s center chains so the joins stay hidden.
Size checkpoint: Hang the organizer while it’s empty.
- Both dowels on each side should be level.
- The top dowel should be 4 in (10.2 cm) above the upper rim.
- The two rims should be 7 in (17.8 cm) apart.
- The top dowel should be 16 in (40.6 cm) above the bottom of the lower basket.
Border
Border gauge: 1 rev sc per stitch, so 16 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm), which matches the rim.
Border Rnd (Rnd 33): Ch 1. Working from left to right, rev sc in each st around and join to the first rev sc. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
- Back section: 36 rev sc
- Front section: 72 rev sc
- Total: 108 rev sc
Why the math works: The border uses one stitch for each rim stitch, so the 27 in (68.6 cm) circumference doesn’t change. The rim won’t flare or pull in, and the dowel sections keep their exact 36/72 split. The rev sc adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm), so the basket goes from 4.75 in (12.1 cm) to 5 in (12.7 cm) tall. It also gives the rim its firm, twisted, corded look.
Final Blocking
- Before assembly, slide the dowels out if they’re already in.
- Soak both baskets in cool water for 10 minutes, then press out the water. Don’t wring them.
- Turn each basket over an 8.5 in (21.6 cm) bowl or box so the base sits flat and the walls hang straight.
- Gently open each fan and pull each lattice diamond into a symmetrical shape with your fingers.
- Push out the Rnd 19 fold line so the base edge is sharp.
- Let the baskets dry completely, which takes 24–48 hours. Lightly steam the cords, then let them dry straight.
- Reinsert the dowels and assemble.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Base is 8.5 in (21.6 cm) across and lies flat.
- Each round from Rnd 18 to Rnd 32 has 108 sts.
- There are 9 fans per basket, each with 9 dc.
- Rnd 27 has 36 ch-4 arches, and every diamond is closed.
- Each basket is 5 in (12.7 cm) tall.
- Rev sc border is even and has 108 sts.
- Dowels stick out 1 in (2.5 cm) on each side.
- Drops are 4 in (10.2 cm) and 7 in (17.8 cm), and both sides match.
- All tails are woven in and the cord joins are sewn securely.
Troubleshooting
- Base cups: Your tension is too tight, or you missed increases. Recount to 6 increases per round.
- Base ruffles: You’ve added extra increases, or your gauge is loose. Go down a hook size.
- Hexagon-shaped base: Stagger the increases on alternate rounds.
- Lace doesn’t come out even: You don’t have exactly 108 sts at Rnd 24. Recount before Rnd 25.
- Fans lean to one side: You worked into the wrong ch-1 sp in Rnd 27. Count the spaces 1–8 from the right.
- Rim flares: Rnd 29 got more than 3 sc in some spaces. Rework it.
- Rim pulls in: Your rev sc is too tight. Use a hook one size larger for the border only.
- Organizer tilts: The cord drops don’t match. Adjust the wraps until both sides are equal.
Care
Remove the dowels, hand wash in cool water with mild soap, then reshape the baskets over a bowl and let them dry flat. Don’t put them in the dryer, because heat shrinks cotton unevenly.
Final Notes
The measurements build in a simple chain:
- 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), which gives a 108-stitch base that is 8.5 in (21.6 cm) across.
- The 108 stitches divide into 9 lace repeats of 12 sts. Rnd 29 converts the lace back to 108 sts, and the 108-st border keeps the rim at 27 in (68.6 cm) around.
- A 36-stitch back section measuring 9 in (22.9 cm) holds an 11 in (27.9 cm) dowel.
- With 4 in (10.2 cm) and 7 in (17.8 cm) cord drops, the finished organizer is 16 in (40.6 cm) from the top dowel down.
Check each link in that chain as you go, and both baskets will match and hang level.
Happy crocheting!