The Goldenrod Trio is a hanging toilet paper holder made of three open-mesh baskets on a simple triangular wooden frame. One basket sits at the top and two hang side by side on the crossbar. The result is a tidy, warm-toned storage piece that keeps three spare rolls in view and off the floor.
Everything is crocheted in one mustard yellow. Each basket has a solid round base, a short solid band at the bottom of the side, a filet mesh middle with square windows, and a thick rolled rim. A sturdy strap hangs the frame from a wall peg, and small tabs wrap the crossbar to hold the lower baskets.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket is about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) in diameter and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall. The assembled holder is about 12 in (30.5 cm) wide and 16 in (40.6 cm) tall, measured from the top of the hanging loop to the bottom of the lower baskets.
Construction is simple. You work each base in the round, turn up the sides with a back-loop round, and then work solid rounds, mesh rounds and a rim. You then make one strap and five tabs and sew everything onto the frame.
Finished Size and Construction
- Basket size: 4.75 in (12.1 cm) diameter × 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall
- Assembled size: approx. 12 in (30.5 cm) wide × 16 in (40.6 cm) tall
- Skill level: Easy to Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Aran (weight 4/heavy worsted), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 9 (3 baskets, 1 hanging strap, 5 tabs)
- Layout: pyramid, with 1 basket on top and 2 below
- Basket height before rim: 3.0 in (7.6 cm)
- Rim (border) depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm)
- Fits: rolls up to about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) in diameter
Materials
Yarn: Use a firm Aran-weight cotton or cotton-acrylic blend. Cotton keeps the baskets upright and holds the mesh squares open. Soft acrylic also works, but the baskets will slump more.
- Mustard yellow: 150 g / approx. 300 m (328 yd)
The project uses about 125 g, and the 150 g quantity includes a safety margin for gauge differences and the swatch.
Tools:
- 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 4 stitch markers
- Scissors and tape measure
- Triangular wooden dowel frame with a crossbar about 12 in (30.5 cm) long, made from 3/8 in (1.0 cm) dowels. You can buy one or glue one together.
- Wall peg or hook
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- MR – magic ring
- BLO – back loop only
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Special stitch – rev sc: Do not turn your work. Working from left to right (right to left if you crochet left-handed), insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over and pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops. This makes the rolled, rope-like rim.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sc and 15 rounds/rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) with a 5 mm hook.
Make one full basket before you make the others. This is your real gauge test. Check it at each stage:
- After Rnd 5 (30 sts): base about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across.
- After Rnd 9 (54 sts): base about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across, lying flat.
- After Rnd 16 (last mesh round): side about 3.0 in (7.6 cm) tall from the base fold.
- After Rnd 19 (rim): basket about 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall, and a roll drops in easily.
If the basket is too big, go down a half size to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small or the roll sticks, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Change the hook, not the stitch counts. The counts are matched to the mesh repeat.
Basket (Make 3)
Base
Work in continuous rounds. Mark the first stitch of each round.
Rnd 1: In a MR, work 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st 6 times. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times. (30 sts)
Checkpoint: about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across.
Rnd 6: Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times. (48 sts)
Rnd 9: Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next st 6 times. Sl st to the first st to join. (54 sts)
Checkpoint: about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across, lying flat. If it cups, your tension is tight. If it ruffles, it is loose.
Lower Solid Band
From here on, join each round with a sl st and start with ch 1. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch.
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (54 sts)
The unused front loops make a crisp fold line, and the sides turn upward.
Rnds 11–12: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (54 sts)
The lower band is now 3 rounds, about 0.8 in (2.0 cm) tall.
Mesh Section
The mesh repeat is 2 sts (1 dc + 1 ch-1 sp). Since 54 ÷ 2 = 27, you get 27 even windows around.
Rnd 13: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk next st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st 26 times. Join with a sl st to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (27 dc + 27 ch-1 sps = 54 sts)
Rnd 14: Sl st into the next ch-1 sp, then sl st into the next dc, so you are standing above a dc. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in next dc, ch 1 26 times. Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (27 dc + 27 ch-1 sps = 54 sts)
Simpler option for Rnd 14: after joining Rnd 13, simply ch 4 and work the first dc into the next dc. The join already sits on top of the turning chain.
Rnds 15–16: Repeat Rnd 14. (27 dc + 27 ch-1 sps = 54 sts each round)
Each dc sits directly on top of the dc below it, so the windows stack into straight vertical columns. Each mesh round is about 0.55 in (1.4 cm) tall, and the four mesh rounds together measure about 2.2 in (5.6 cm).
Checkpoint: side height is about 3.0 in (7.6 cm) from the fold line.
Do not fasten off. Go straight on to the rim (border) below.
Make All Pieces
Baskets: 3 in mustard yellow, each worked to Rnd 19 (see Border).
Hanging strap (make 1):
Row 1: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (5 sts)
Rows 2–45: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 20 in (50.8 cm) tail. The strap is about 1.4 in (3.6 cm) wide and 12 in (30.5 cm) long.
Tabs (make 5):
Row 1: Ch 6, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (5 sts)
Rows 2–12: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Each tab is about 1.4 in (3.6 cm) × 3.2 in (8.1 cm).
Layout:
[ peg ]
|
[ hanging strap ]
/\
[ TOP BASKET ]
/ | \
tab / tab \ tab
[ LEFT BASKET ] [ RIGHT BASKET ]
tab ===== crossbar ===== tab
Placement: 2 tabs per lower basket (4 total) and 1 center tab under the top basket.
Joining
The pieces are sewn to each other and wrapped around the frame. They are not crocheted together. Use the tails and a tapestry needle, and whipstitch through both loops of every stitch you sew.
1. Hanging loop. Fold Rows 1–16 of the strap in half so Row 1 lies on Row 16. Whipstitch the 5 sts of Row 1 to the 5 sts of Row 16, one stitch to one stitch. This makes a loop about 2 in (5.1 cm) long.
2. Strap to frame and top basket. Pass the strap down behind the top point of the frame, wrap it once around the joint, and bring it down in front. Center the end of the strap on the back of the top basket. Sew Row 45 to the rim, then whipstitch both long edges of the strap down the basket’s back through Rnd 13. That is 7 stitch-to-row stitches per edge.
3. Lower basket tabs. Mark the back of each lower basket at 2 points, 9 sts apart along Rnd 18. That puts them roughly a third of the way around the back, so the basket hangs level. Wrap a tab around the crossbar so Row 1 and Row 12 meet inside the basket. Whipstitch Row 1 and Row 12 together through the basket wall: 5 sts to 5 sts, catching Rnds 17–18. Put the outer tabs close to the frame legs and the inner tabs near the center.
4. Center tab. Wrap the fifth tab around the middle of the crossbar. Sew its two ends together to the back of the top basket’s base, at Rnds 9–11, so the top basket cannot swing.
Tension: Pull each stitch snug but not tight. Tight sewing puckers the mesh and tilts the baskets.
Size checkpoint: hang the holder. The lower baskets should sit about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) apart, and their rims should be level. The full height from the top of the loop to the lower bases should be about 16 in (40.6 cm). Move the tabs if a basket tilts.
Border: Rolled Rim
The rim is worked on each basket right after Rnd 16. A round basket has no corners or straight sides, so the counts are given for the whole round. Each half of the basket carries 27 sts.
Border gauge: 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the body. Fifty-four sts give a rim circumference of about 15.4 in (39.1 cm), which matches the base.
Rnd 17 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp around. Join. (27 sc in dc + 27 sc in ch-1 sps = 54 sts)
Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (54 sts)
Rnd 19: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. Join and fasten off. (54 sts)
Why the math works: The mesh holds 27 dc and 27 spaces. One sc in each gives back exactly 54, which is the base count. The rim therefore matches the base, with no flare and no pull-in, and the basket keeps its straight sides. Rev sc doesn’t change the count, it only rolls the edge. The rim adds about 0.75 in (1.9 cm), so the basket goes from 3.0 in (7.6 cm) to 3.75 in (9.5 cm).
Weave in all ends on the inside, through the solid bands rather than the mesh, so they stay hidden.
Final Blocking
- Soak or spray-wet each basket until it is damp all the way through.
- Press out the extra water in a towel. Don’t wring.
- Slide a toilet roll wrapped in plastic (or a can about 4.75 in / 12.1 cm across) into each basket.
- Square up the mesh windows with your fingers so the dc columns stand straight.
- Roll the rim outward gently so the crab edge sits evenly.
- Pin the tabs and strap flat, and let them dry.
- Let everything dry completely, usually 24 hours, before you hang it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Each base has 54 sts and measures 4.75 in (12.1 cm)
- [ ] Each mesh round has 27 dc and 27 ch-1 sps
- [ ] The mesh columns stack straight, with no spiral
- [ ] Each rim round has 54 sts
- [ ] All three baskets are 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall, within 1/4 in (0.6 cm)
- [ ] The strap has 5 sts × 45 rows and the loop is secure
- [ ] All 5 tabs have 5 sts × 12 rows
- [ ] The lower rims hang level, about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) apart
- [ ] All ends are woven in on the inside
Troubleshooting
The base cups upward. Your tension is tight. Loosen up or use a larger hook for the base only.
The base ruffles. Your tension is loose, or you have extra increases. Recount each round. It should be 6 more than the round before.
The mesh slants or spirals. You are drifting off the dc column. Each dc must go into the top of a dc, never into a ch-1 sp.
The rim flares. You worked 2 sc into some ch-1 sps. Rnd 17 must total exactly 54.
The roll won’t fit. Go up one hook size, or add 1 more base round (Rnd 10 at 60 sts) and work 30 mesh repeats.
A basket tilts forward. Move the tabs higher on the back, or tighten the center tab.
The strap stretches. Use a cotton yarn, or work the strap with a hook 0.5 mm smaller.
Care
Remove the baskets from the frame and hand wash them in cool water. Reshape them around a roll and dry them flat.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is short. A gauge of 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 54-st base of 4.75 in (12.1 cm). The 54 sts become 27 mesh windows, and the rim turns them back into 54 sts. The basket ends up 3.0 in (7.6 cm) tall before the rim and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) after it. Three baskets, one strap and five tabs then make a holder about 12 in (30.5 cm) wide and 16 in (40.6 cm) tall. If you check each step against these numbers, all three baskets will match.
Happy crocheting!