This two-tier hanging organizer is made from two matching oval baskets in a warm terracotta cotton. Each basket has a firm single crochet base, a short solid wall, a band of open honeycomb mesh, and a solid rim. Each one hangs from a light wooden dowel, and two thick crocheted cords link both dowels to a single wall hook.
The style is simple and practical. The solid sections give the baskets structure, and the honeycomb windows keep them light and show off what’s inside. The top tier works well for bottles and brushes, and the bottom tier holds two standard toilet rolls side by side.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each finished basket measures about 12 in (30.5 cm) long, 4.5 in (11.4 cm) deep, and 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall. The assembled organizer hangs about 23 in (58.4 cm) from the hook to the bottom of the lower basket and is 15 in (38.1 cm) wide across the dowels.
For construction, you work each oval base in continuous joined rounds from a foundation chain, turn up the wall with a back-loop round, and then work solid rounds, mesh rounds, and a top band with two dowel slots. You make two slip-stitch cords separately, then put everything together with clove hitch knots around the dowel ends.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished basket size: 12 in (30.5 cm) long x 4.5 in (11.4 cm) deep x 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall
- Assembled organizer: about 23 in (58.4 cm) tall x 15 in (38.1 cm) wide
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5) cotton
- Hook: 6 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 2 identical baskets, 2 hanging cords, 2 dowels
- Layout: 1 column of 2 baskets stacked vertically
- Piece size: each base is 12 in x 4.5 in (30.5 cm x 11.4 cm), with a round of 88 sts
- Size before top band: wall height about 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Top band depth: about 1.25 in (3.2 cm)
Materials
Yarn: Choose a smooth bulky cotton or cotton blend with about 90 m per 100 g. Cotton holds its shape under weight and won’t stretch much in a humid bathroom. Avoid fluffy yarns, because the honeycomb loops need a crisp, rounded strand to look sharp.
- Terracotta (rust orange): 350 g, about 315 m (345 yd)
- Each basket: about 140 g (126 m)
- Both cords together: about 24 g (22 m)
These quantities include a margin of roughly 15% for gauge swatches and differences in tension.
Tools:
- 6 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
- 2 wooden dowels, 0.75 in (1.9 cm) diameter, 15 in (38.1 cm) long
- 1 wall hook or adhesive hook rated for at least 5 lb (2.3 kg)
- 12 locking stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Spray bottle and pins for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- sl st – slip stitch
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- BLO – back loop only
- ch-5 loop – the space under a chain-5
- rnd(s) – round(s)
Special stitch – back-bump slip stitch: Turn your chain over and find the row of bumps on the back. Insert your hook under one bump only, yarn over, and pull through the bump and the loop on your hook. This makes a firm, rounded cord with a braided look on one face.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 sc x 13 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) worked in rounds.
Mesh gauge: one honeycomb repeat (sc + ch 5, worked over 4 sts) spans about 1.33 in (3.4 cm), and 4 mesh rnds measure about 2.4 in (6.1 cm) tall.
Make one complete basket first and check it before you start the second. All sizing depends on the base, so measure carefully.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 7: the flat base measures 12 in x 4.5 in (30.5 cm x 11.4 cm), and the outer edge measures about 29.3 in (74.4 cm) around.
- After Rnd 12: the solid wall stands about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) above the base edge.
- After Rnd 16: the wall stands about 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 21: the finished basket stands 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall.
If your base is too big, go down to a 5.5 mm hook. If it’s too small, go up to a 6.5 mm hook. Don’t change the stitch counts, because the mesh repeat needs exactly 88 sts. If the base is the right size but the walls flare, work the wall rounds more tightly or go down half a hook size from Rnd 8 onward.
Basket (Make 2)
Work in joined rounds. Ch 1 at the start of each rnd does not count as a st. Join each rnd with a sl st to the first sc.
Oval Base
Foundation: Ch 26.
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of the next 23 ch, 3 sc in the last ch. Rotate the work and continue along the underside of the chain: sc in each of the next 23 ch, 2 sc in the last ch (this ch already holds the first sc). Join. (52 sts)
The round now has 4 sections: a 3-st end, a 23-st side, a 3-st end, and a 23-st side. The first end is split across the start and finish of the round.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in first st, sc in next 23 sts, inc in each of next 3 sts, sc in next 23 sts, inc in each of last 2 sts. Join. (58 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in first st, inc in next st, sc in next 23 sts, (sc in next st, inc) 3 times, sc in next 23 sts, (sc in next st, inc) 2 times. Join. (64 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, inc, sc in next 23 sts, (sc in next 2 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 23 sts, (sc in next 2 sts, inc) 2 times. Join. (70 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, inc, sc in next 23 sts, (sc in next 3 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 23 sts, (sc in next 3 sts, inc) 2 times. Join. (76 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, inc, sc in next 23 sts, (sc in next 4 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 23 sts, (sc in next 4 sts, inc) 2 times. Join. (82 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, inc, sc in next 23 sts, (sc in next 5 sts, inc) 3 times, sc in next 23 sts, (sc in next 5 sts, inc) 2 times. Join. (88 sts)
The round now has 2 curved ends of 21 sts each and 2 straight sides of 23 sts each: 21 + 23 + 21 + 23 = 88. Lay the base flat and check Checkpoint 1.
Solid Wall
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (88 sts) The unused front loops form a neat ridge at the base edge, and the work starts to turn upward.
Rnds 9–12: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (88 sts in each rnd)
The wall now has 5 solid rnds. Check Checkpoint 2.
Honeycomb Mesh
Rnd 13: Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 5, sk next 3 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * 20 more times, ch 5, sk last 3 sts, join to first sc. (22 sc, 22 ch-5 loops)
The math works because 88 sts ÷ 4 sts per repeat = 22 repeats exactly.
Rnd 14: Sl st in next 2 ch to reach the center of the first loop, ch 1, sc in the same loop, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop; repeat from * 20 more times, ch 5, join to first sc. (22 sc, 22 ch-5 loops)
Each sc sits in the center of a loop below, so the openings shift by half a repeat and form the six-sided honeycomb shape.
Rnds 15–16: Repeat Rnd 14. (22 sc, 22 ch-5 loops in each rnd)
Gently pull the mesh upward so the cells open evenly, then check Checkpoint 3.
Top Band
The top band works like a border for each basket. It closes the mesh, firms up the rim, and holds the dowel.
Band gauge: same as the base, 12 sc and 13 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm). The 4 sc rnds plus the sl st rnd add about 1.25 in (3.2 cm).
Rnd 17 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in next sc, 3 sc in next ch-5 loop; repeat from * around. Join. (22 sc worked 1 per existing sc + 66 sc worked 3 per loop = 88 sts)
Flatten the basket the same way the base lies, so you can see 2 curved ends and 2 straight sides. Mark the 4 sections again: 21 sts for each curved end and 23 sts for each straight side (21 + 23 + 21 + 23 = 88). The mesh shifts the start of the round slightly, so this step lines up the slots with the actual shape of the basket.
Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (88 sts: 21 / 23 / 21 / 23 per section)
Slot placement: Choose one straight side as the back wall. On each curved end, count from the center st of that end toward the back wall. Skip 2 sts, then place a marker in each of the next 4 sts. These 4 sts become the slot, and you’ll have 8 marked sts in total.
Rnd 19 (slot round): Ch 1, sc in each st up to the first group of marked sts, ch 4, sk the 4 marked sts, sc in each st up to the second group, ch 4, sk the 4 marked sts, sc in each remaining st. Join. (80 sc + 2 ch-4 slots)
Each curved end now has 17 sc + 1 slot, and each straight side still has 23 sc. 17 + 23 + 17 + 23 = 80 sc.
Rnd 20: Ch 1, sc in each sc, and work 4 sc around each ch-4 slot (into the chain, not into the slot opening). Join. (80 sc worked 1 per existing sc + 8 sc worked 4 per slot = 88 sts)
The slot is 4 ch wide, or about 1.33 in (3.4 cm), so a 0.75 in (1.9 cm) dowel slides through easily without stretching the opening.
Rnd 21: Sl st loosely in each st around. Join to the first sl st and fasten off. (88 sl sts)
Weave in all ends on the inside. Check Checkpoint 4.
Make All Pieces
Make all pieces in Terracotta:
- Baskets: 2 (about 140 g / 126 m each)
- Hanging cords: 2 (about 12 g / 11 m each)
Hanging cord: Ch 106. Work a back-bump sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (105 sl sts) Fasten off with a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail. The cord should measure 30 in (76.2 cm). If it comes out shorter, remake it with a few more chains until it reaches the right length.
Layout grid (front view):
[ hook ]
/ \
cord A cord B
/ \
[==== dowel 1 (top basket) ====]
| |
cord A cord B
| |
[== dowel 2 (bottom basket) ==]
Joining
Here, joining means putting together the baskets, dowels, and cords. There is no stitch-to-stitch seam. The cord knots carry the full weight.
- Thread the dowels. Slide one dowel through both slots of each basket, going from outside to inside to outside. Center the basket so the dowel sticks out about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) past each curved end.
- Mark the cords. On each cord, place a marker 2 in (5.1 cm) from the top end (the apex overlap). Place another marker 10 in (25.4 cm) below that one (the top dowel position), and a third marker 11 in (27.9 cm) below that (the bottom dowel position).
- Attach the top dowel. At the second marker, tie cord A around the left end of dowel 1 with a clove hitch, about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) from the dowel tip. Repeat with cord B on the right end.
- Attach the bottom dowel. At the third marker, tie each cord around the matching end of dowel 2 with a clove hitch. Wrap the remaining tail 2 times around the dowel and stitch it to itself with the tapestry needle.
- Form the apex. Overlap the top 2 in (5.1 cm) of both cords and whipstitch them together through the back bumps, making a single flat join. Fold the joined section in half and stitch it into a small loop for the wall hook.
Tension advice: Pull each clove hitch snug, but not so tight that the cord flattens. Before stitching any tails down, hang the piece and check that both dowels are level. Slide the knots to adjust if needed.
Size checkpoint: The spacing from dowel to dowel is 11 in (27.9 cm), and the full drop from the apex to the bottom of the lower basket is about 23 in (58.4 cm).
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist each basket with water until it’s damp but not wet.
- Stuff the basket firmly with a folded towel to square up the walls.
- Open the honeycomb cells with your fingers so each one looks even and six-sided.
- Pin the top band straight and line up the slots across from each other.
- Let it dry completely, upright, for 24 hours.
- Remove the towel and thread the dowels back through if you took them out.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base measures 12 in x 4.5 in (30.5 cm x 11.4 cm) and lies flat.
- Each basket is 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall with 22 even honeycomb cells per rnd.
- Rnds 8–12, 17, 18, and 20 each hold 88 sts.
- The slots line up across from each other, and both dowels slide through freely.
- Both cords measure 30 in (76.2 cm) before knotting.
- The dowels hang level 11 in (27.9 cm) apart.
- All ends are woven in on the inside.
Troubleshooting
- Base ruffles: Your tension is loose at the curved ends. Go down a hook size for Rnds 5–7.
- Base cups: Your tension is too tight. Go up a hook size, or check that you worked every inc.
- Pointed ends: Stacked increases can create corners. Stagger the inc position by one st in Rnds 5 and 7.
- Mesh count is off: Count the loops after Rnd 13. You need exactly 22. Rip back and recount the 88-st base round.
- Slots don’t line up: Re-mark the sections after Rnd 17 with the basket fully flattened.
- Basket tilts: Slide the dowel to center it, then adjust the clove hitches.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the moisture in a towel, and reshape the baskets to dry flat. Remove the dowels before washing.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. A gauge of 12 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 12 in x 4.5 in (30.5 cm x 11.4 cm) base. The 88-st round divides into 22 mesh repeats and gives a 4 in (10.2 cm) wall. The top band adds 1.25 in (3.2 cm) for a 5.25 in (13.3 cm) basket. The 30 in (76.2 cm) cords set the dowels 11 in (27.9 cm) apart, for a total drop of 23 in (58.4 cm). Check each link in that chain, and both baskets will hang straight and level.
Happy crocheting!