This doorway curtain has a cream filet-mesh header with tab loops that slide onto a wooden rod. Below the header hang eleven cream cords. Each cord carries stuffed red-and-cream striped candy canes, each tied with a dark green bow, alternating with flat cream five-point stars. Neighboring cords are offset, so canes and stars form a checkerboard across the doorway.
The palette is classic peppermint: deep red, cream, and forest green. The style is cozy farmhouse Christmas, with soft cotton texture and simple shapes. All instructions use US crochet terms.
The finished curtain is about 32.5 in (82.6 cm) wide and about 67.75 in (172.1 cm) long, measured from the top of the header to the tip of the lowest star. The tabs add about 2 in (5.1 cm) above the header.
You work the header flat in rows, add one sc edging round, then work the tabs off the top edge and chain the cords off the bottom edge. Canes, bows, and stars are made separately and sewn onto the cords at measured stations.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 32.5 in x 67.75 in (82.6 cm x 172.1 cm), not counting the tabs
- Skill level: Intermediate (simple stitches, lots of repetition)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 header, 11 tabs, 11 cords, 39 canes, 39 bows, 49 stars
- Layout: 11 cords, 8 stations per cord
- Header size before border: 32 in x 4.25 in (81.3 cm x 10.8 cm)
- Header size after border: 32.5 in x 4.75 in (82.6 cm x 12.1 cm)
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm), one round of sc
- Cane size: about 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall and 2 in (5.1 cm) across the hook
- Star size: about 3 in (7.6 cm) from point to point
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or a cotton blend. Cotton keeps the star points crisp and doesn’t stretch much on long hanging cords. The amounts below assume about 170 m per 100 g.
- Cream: 450 g (about 765 m) for the header, tabs, cords, stars, and cane stripes
- Red: 140 g (about 238 m) for the cane stripes
- Dark green: 90 g (about 153 m) for the bows
All quantities include a margin of about 20 percent.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) hook
– 4.0 mm (G-6) hook (optional, for the stars)
– Polyester fiberfill, about 60 g
– Stitch markers (at least 10)
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
– Rod or dowel, up to 1 in (2.5 cm) thick
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- RS – right side
Special stitch – back-bump sl st: Insert the hook under the small bump on the back of the chain, then sl st as usual. This gives a firm, round cord with no visible chain loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
- Mesh: 7 squares (14 sts) = 4 in (10.2 cm); 4 mesh rows = 3 in (7.6 cm)
- Sc rows: 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Cord: 32 ch = 8 in (20.3 cm) after the back-bump sl st row
Before you start the header, make one cane and one star as tests. The straight cane tube should be about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) long. The star should measure about 3 in (7.6 cm) from point to point.
If your pieces come out too big, go down a hook size. If they’re too small, go up a size. Check both test pieces before you start the header.
Header
The header is 56 mesh squares wide, worked flat.
Foundation: With cream, ch 114.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (113 sc)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk next sc, dc in next sc, ch 1, sk next sc, dc in next sc; repeat from * across, turn. (57 dc, 56 ch-1 sps = 113 sts)
Rows 3–6: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), dc in next dc, ch 1, dc in next dc; repeat from * across, working the last dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch-4. Turn. (57 dc, 56 ch-1 sps = 113 sts)
Row 7: Ch 1, sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp across, working the last sc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch-4. Do not fasten off. (113 sc)
Checkpoint: The header should measure 32 in x 4.25 in (81.3 cm x 10.8 cm). That’s 5 mesh rows at 3.75 in (9.5 cm) plus 2 sc rows at 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Candy Canes (make 39)
Each cane is a lightly stuffed sc tube worked in a spiral, changing color every 2 rounds. The spiral jog makes the stripes lean slightly, like a real peppermint cane. Carry the unused color loosely inside the tube.
Round 1: With red, make a magic ring and work 6 sc into it. (6 sc)
Round 2: Sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat 2 times. (8 sc)
Rounds 3–22: Sc in each sc around. (8 sc per round) Change color on the last st of every even round. That gives cream on Rounds 3–4, red on 5–6, cream on 7–8, and so on, ending with red on Rounds 21–22.
Start stuffing lightly at Round 10, and keep adding as you go. Keep Rounds 1–8 lightly stuffed so the hook will bend.
Round 23: With red, sc2tog 4 times. (4 sts) Fasten off, then weave the tail through the front loops and pull it closed.
Checkpoint: The straight tube has 11 stripes (6 red, 5 cream) and is about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) long and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) thick.
Shaping: Bend Rounds 1–8 down into a hook. With cream yarn, tack Round 4 to the side of Round 11 with 2 or 3 stitches on the inside of the curve. The cane should be 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall and 2 in (5.1 cm) across the hook.
Bows (make 39)
Cord: With dark green, ch 37. Sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (36 sl sts) Fasten off. The cord is about 9 in (22.9 cm) long.
Wrap the cord around the cane between Rounds 11 and 12, with the knot at the front. Tie a bow with two loops about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) long. Tack the knot in place with a few stitches and leave the tails hanging.
Stars (make 49)
Round 1: With cream, make a magic ring, ch 1, and work 10 sc into it. Sl st to the first sc. (10 sc)
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc; repeat 5 times. Sl st to the first sc. (15 sc)
Round 3 (points): Ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, sk next 2 sc, sl st in next sc; repeat 5 times. Each point uses 3 sts of Round 2, so 5 points use exactly 15 sts. (5 points) Fasten off.
Checkpoint: The center measures 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across, and the star measures 3 in (7.6 cm) from point to point.
Make All Pieces
- Cream: 1 header, 11 tabs, 11 cords, 49 stars, plus the cream stripes in the canes
- Red: stripes for 39 canes
- Green: 39 bows
There are 8 stations per cord. Stations 1–7 sit every 8 in (20.3 cm), and Station 8 is the tip of the cord. Cords run left to right, 1–11 (C = cane, S = star):
Station: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
1 C S C S C S C S C S C
2 S C S C S C S C S C S
3 C S C S C S C S C S C
4 S C S C S C S C S C S
5 C S C S C S C S C S C
6 S C S C S C S C S C S
7 C S C S C S C S C S C
8 S S S S S S S S S S S
Count check: Odd cords (6 of them) hold 4 canes and 4 stars each. Even cords (5 of them) hold 3 canes and 5 stars each. Canes: 6 x 4 + 5 x 3 = 39. Stars: 6 x 4 + 5 x 5 = 49.
Border (Header Edging)
Work the border before the tabs and cords, because both are attached to border stitches. Border gauge is the same as the sc rows: one round adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on every side.
Border round: Continuing from Row 7, ch 1. Work 3 sc into the end st of each long side; the middle sc of each group is the corner stitch.
- Short sides: 12 sc each, worked into the row ends: 1 sc in each sc row end and 2 sc in each mesh row end (1 + 5 x 2 + 1 = 12)
- Top edge: working into the free loops of the foundation ch, 113 sts, including its 2 corner stitches
- Bottom edge: working into Row 7, 113 sts, including its 2 corner stitches
- Extra corner sc: 2 at each of 4 corners = 8
Sl st to the first sc and fasten off. (258 sc)
Why the math works: 2 x 113 + 2 x 12 + 8 = 258. The long sides already count their corner stitches, so only the 2 extra sc per corner are added. On the top and bottom edges, count 115 sts from corner stitch to corner stitch. The corner stitch is st 1, and st 2 is the next sc in that corner group, so it’s also worked into Row 7 sc 1.
Checkpoint: 32.5 in x 4.75 in (82.6 cm x 12.1 cm).
Joining
Tabs (make 11): With RS facing, work along the top edge. Join cream in border st 6 and work 1 sc in each of sts 6–10, turn. (5 sc) Work 15 more rows of 5 sc, for 16 rows and 4 in (10.2 cm) total. Fold the tab to the back and whipstitch its last row to the back of the same 5 sts. That leaves a 2 in (5.1 cm) loop. Repeat over sts 16–20, 26–30, and so on through 106–110. Tabs start every 10 sts, with 5 sts left free at each end.
Cords (make 11): With RS facing, work along the bottom edge. Join cream in border st 8, which is worked into Row 7 sc 7. Ch 241. Counting from the header, place markers in ch 16, 48, 80, 112, 144, 176, and 208. Back-bump sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch back up, for 240 sl sts. Sl st into the same border st and fasten off.
Repeat in border sts 18, 28, 38, 48, 58, 68, 78, 88, 98, and 108. Each cord sits directly under the center of a tab, so the rod carries the weight evenly, and 7 sts stay free at each end.
Checkpoint: Each cord is 60 in (152.4 cm) long, with markers every 8 in (20.3 cm), starting 4 in (10.2 cm) below the header. If a cord is off by more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm), redo it with looser or tighter chains.
Attaching motifs: Each marker is the top of a motif, and the cord tip is Station 8. Lay each cane so the cord runs behind its straight shaft. Tack it at the top of the hook and again at Round 20. Lay each star so the cord runs behind it. Tack it at the top point and the center. For the Station 8 stars, tack the cord tip to the back of the top point.
Keep tacking stitches snug but not tight. A puckered cord makes the motif tilt. Hang the curtain and check that every motif faces forward before you weave in the ends.
Size checkpoint: From the top of the header to the tip of the lowest star: 4.75 + 60 + 3 = 67.75 in (172.1 cm).
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist the header and pin it to 32.5 in x 4.75 in (82.6 cm x 12.1 cm), with the mesh squares straight.
- Pin each star flat to 3 in (7.6 cm), opening every point.
- Shape the cane hooks with your fingers and fluff the bows. Don’t pin the canes.
- Let everything dry completely.
- Hang the curtain for 24 hours, then recheck the 60 in (152.4 cm) cord length.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Header has 113 sts per row and 258 sts in the border round
- 11 tabs and 11 cords, each cord centered under a tab
- Each cord measures 60 in (152.4 cm), with 8 stations
- 39 canes, each with 11 stripes and a tacked hook
- 39 bows, all knotted firmly at the front
- 49 stars, each with 5 even points
- Layout matches the grid
- All ends woven in, and no fiberfill showing
Troubleshooting
- Header ripples: The mesh ch-1s are too loose. Go down half a hook size for Rows 2–6.
- Header narrower than 32 in (81.3 cm): Recount the 113 sts. A missed turning-chain dc is the usual cause.
- Stripes look blurred: Change color on the last yarn-over of the previous st.
- Hook straightens out: Add a third tacking stitch and use less stuffing in Rounds 1–8.
- Star curls: Use a 4.0 mm (G-6) hook, or block it more firmly.
- Cords twist: Roll each hanging cord between your fingers until it lies flat.
Care
Spot clean or hand wash cool, then lay flat to dry and reshape the canes. Store the curtain rolled around a tube, not folded, to keep the cords from tangling.
Final Notes
Here are the measurements to check as you go. The header measures 32 in x 4.25 in (81.3 cm x 10.8 cm), and the border brings it to 32.5 in x 4.75 in (82.6 cm x 12.1 cm). Eleven 60 in (152.4 cm) cords carry motifs every 8 in (20.3 cm), and a 3 in (7.6 cm) star at each tip brings the total length to 67.75 in (172.1 cm). If each one matches, the curtain will hang straight and even in your doorway.
Happy crocheting!