Three crocheted sage-green ornaments with cream details, strung on green cord, against a neutral beige background.

Sage Lotus Hanging Toilet Paper Holder Crochet Pattern

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The Sage Lotus Hanging Toilet Paper Holder stacks three rolls in a neat column of fan-stitch baskets. Each basket has a pointed cream “lotus” rim, and one soft sage cord links all three tiers and rises into a simple V-shaped hanger.

The color scheme is calm and spa-like: sage green for the bases, fan sides and cord, and cream for the petal rims and the small wrapped knots at each attachment point. The look is part farmhouse, part vintage doily, and it suits a towel hook, door hook or wall rail.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures 6.4 in (16.3 cm) across the opening and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall at the petal tips. The assembled holder is about 6.4 in (16.3 cm) wide and 18.75 in (47.6 cm) long from the top of the hanging loop to the bottom of the lowest basket.

Construction is simple. You work each basket in joined rounds: a flat single crochet base, one back-loop round to turn the wall upward, three fan rounds and a three-round cream petal rim. Then you crochet one long cord and tack it to the baskets with wrapped cream knots.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size (assembled): 6.4 in (16.3 cm) wide x 18.75 in (47.6 cm) long
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
  • Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
  • Number of pieces: 4 (3 baskets + 1 cord)
  • Layout: 1 column x 3 baskets, stacked vertically
  • Piece size (one basket): 6.4 in (16.3 cm) across x 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
  • Size before border: base 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across; sage sides 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall
  • Border depth: 1.75 in (4.4 cm) at the petal tips, 0.5 in (1.3 cm) at the valleys

Materials

Use a smooth, firm 100% cotton or cotton blend in worsted weight. Cotton holds the bowl shape, takes steam well and stands up to bathroom humidity. Avoid splitty or very soft yarns, because the petals will droop.

  • Sage green: 130 g, approx. 208 m (bases, fan sides, cord)
  • Cream: 80 g, approx. 128 m (petal rims and wrapped knots)

Quantities include a margin of about 25% for gauge swatching and differences in tension.

Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– 16 locking stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors and tape measure
– A bowl, jar or plastic-wrapped toilet roll about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across for blocking
– Optional: spray starch

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • tr – treble crochet
  • inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
  • BLO – back loop only
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • sp – space
  • [ ] – repeat the instructions between brackets as directed

Special stitch – Fan: 7 dc worked into the same stitch.

Special technique – Back-bump sc: work the sc into the bump on the back of the chain, so both front loops of the chain stay visible as a neat edge.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 16 sc and 17 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm). The cord is worked at the same rate, 4 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm).

Make one complete basket before starting the others, and measure it at each stage:

  • After Rnd 4 (24 sts): base is 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across.
  • After Rnd 10 (60 sts): base is 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across, with a circumference of 15 in (38.1 cm).
  • After Rnd 14: sage sides stand 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall above the base.
  • After Rnd 15: opening is 6.4 in (16.3 cm) across, with a circumference of 20 in (50.8 cm).
  • After Rnd 17: basket is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall at the petal tips and 2.25 in (5.7 cm) tall at the valleys.

If your basket is too big, go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small, or the base cups before Rnd 10, go up to a 5.5 mm hook. A standard roll is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across, so the base must reach at least 4.75 in (12.1 cm).

Cream-colored crocheted bobbles sit atop sage-green yarn with dimensional texture, sharply focused against a blurred background.

Basket (Make 3)

Work in joined rounds. The ch-1 at the start of a round does not count as a stitch. Stagger the increases as written so the base stays round.

Base (Sage)

Rnd 1: Make a magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in ring, sl st to first sc. (6)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (12)

Rnd 3: Ch 1, [sc in next st, inc] 6 times, sl st to first sc. (18)

Rnd 4: Ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, inc] 6 times, sl st to first sc. (24)

Checkpoint: 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across.

Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next st, inc, [sc in next 3 sts, inc] 5 times, sc in next 2 sts, sl st to first sc. (30)

Rnd 6: Ch 1, [sc in next 4 sts, inc] 6 times, sl st to first sc. (36)

Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, inc, [sc in next 5 sts, inc] 5 times, sc in next 3 sts, sl st to first sc. (42)

Rnd 8: Ch 1, [sc in next 6 sts, inc] 6 times, sl st to first sc. (48)

Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, inc, [sc in next 7 sts, inc] 5 times, sc in next 4 sts, sl st to first sc. (54)

Rnd 10: Ch 1, [sc in next 8 sts, inc] 6 times, sl st to first sc. (60)

Checkpoint: the base lies flat and measures 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.

Sides (Sage)

Rnd 11 (turning round): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, sl st to first sc. (60) The unworked front loops form a ridge, and the wall starts to rise.

Rnd 12 (Fan Round 1): Ch 1, sc in first st, [sk 2 sts, Fan in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st] 9 times, sk 2 sts, Fan in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st to first sc. (10 Fans + 10 sc = 80 sts)

This round uses 1 + (9 x 6) + 5 = 60 sts of Rnd 11, so the 6-stitch repeat fits exactly 10 times.

Rnd 13 (Fan Round 2, offset): Ch 3 (counts as dc), 3 dc in same sc; [sc in 4th dc of next Fan, Fan in next sc] 9 times; sc in 4th dc of last Fan, 3 dc in first sc (at the base of the ch-3), sl st to top of ch-3. (10 Fans + 10 sc = 80 sts)

The opening ch-3 + 3 dc and the closing 3 dc make one split Fan of 7 sts, so the total is 7 + 63 + 10 = 80.

Rnd 14 (Fan Round 3): Ch 1, sc in top of ch-3 (the center of the split Fan), [Fan in next sc, sc in 4th dc of next Fan] 9 times, Fan in next sc, sl st to first sc. (10 Fans + 10 sc = 80 sts)

The Fans in this round sit directly above the Fans of Rnd 12. Fasten off sage.

Checkpoint: the sides are 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall and the bowl flares gently outward.

Make All Pieces

  • Baskets: 3, each using about 30 g of sage for Rnds 1–14 and about 20 g of cream for Rnds 15–17
  • Cord: 1, using about 10 g of sage
  • Wrapped knots: 13, using about 5 g of cream in total

Work the Border (Rnds 15–17, below) on all three baskets before you join them.

Layout grid (front view):

        [ loop ]
         /    \
      [ Basket 1 ]   top
       |        |
      [ Basket 2 ]   middle
       |        |
      [ Basket 3 ]   bottom

Joining

Cord (Sage)

Ch 163. Sc in the back bump of the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (162 sc)

The cord measures 40.5 in (102.9 cm) long and about 0.3 in (0.8 cm) wide. Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Number the stitches from one end and place markers at sts 1, 9, 21, 29, 41, 49, 73, 90, 114, 122, 134, 142, 154 and 162. The layout mirrors around the center:

  • St 1 / st 162: bottom basket, Rnd 11
  • St 9 / st 154: bottom basket, rim valley
  • St 21 / st 142: middle basket, Rnd 11
  • St 29 / st 134: middle basket, rim valley
  • St 41 / st 122: top basket, Rnd 11
  • St 49 / st 114: top basket, rim valley
  • Sts 50–73 / 90–113: hanger arms, 24 sts = 6 in (15.2 cm) each
  • Sts 74–89: hanging loop, 16 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm)

Stitch-to-stitch logic

On each basket, choose two valleys in Rnd 17 with exactly 5 petals between them on each side, so they sit directly opposite each other. The matching Rnd 11 point is the Rnd 11 stitch directly below each valley. That stitch holds a Rnd 12 sc, and the valley stacks straight above it through the alternating Fan/sc columns.

The cord distances match the basket:

  • Valley to Rnd 11: 8 sts = 2 in (5.1 cm), the height of the side between those two points.
  • Rnd 11 of one basket to the valley of the basket below: 12 sts = 3 in (7.6 cm) of free cord.
  • Valley to valley: 2 in + 3 in = 5 in (12.7 cm) per tier.

Wrapped knots

For each knot, cut 14 in (35.6 cm) of cream. Hold the marked cord stitch against the marked basket stitch. Wrap the cream yarn 6 times around both, passing the needle through the basket stitch on the first and last wraps. Tie a square knot at the back and bury the tails inside the wraps.

Attach the baskets in this order:

  1. Bottom basket: sts 1 and 162 at Rnd 11, then sts 9 and 154 at the valleys.
  2. Middle basket: sts 21 and 142 at Rnd 11, then sts 29 and 134 at the valleys.
  3. Top basket: sts 41 and 122 at Rnd 11, then sts 49 and 114 at the valleys.
  4. Hanging loop: bring sts 73 and 90 together side by side and wrap 8 times around both cord layers. This closes sts 74–89 into a loop about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.

Tension: wrap snugly but do not cinch. The basket stitch should not pucker, and the cord should lie flat against the side. Check that the cord isn’t twisted before each knot.

Size checkpoint: hang the holder up. It should measure 18.75 in (47.6 cm) long: about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of loop, about 5 in (12.7 cm) of hanger drop, two 5 in (12.7 cm) tiers, and 2.25 in (5.7 cm) from the bottom valley to the base.

Border (Cream Petal Rim)

Work these rounds on each basket after Rnd 14.

Border gauge: 4 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm), the same as the body. Each petal spans 8 sts of Rnd 15, so 10 petals x 2 in (5.1 cm) = 20 in (50.8 cm), the full rim circumference.

In the counts below, a “side” is one half of the rim, between the two cord valleys (5 petals).

Rnd 15 (conversion round): Join cream with a sl st in any sc of Rnd 14. Ch 1, sc in same st, sc in each of next 7 dc, [sc in next sc, sc in each of next 7 dc] 9 times, sl st to first sc.

(80 sts = 80 worked 1-per-st + 0 added; 40 per side)

The 10 sc worked into the Rnd 14 sc are the valley stitches.

Rnd 16 (petal round): Sl st in first st (valley). Then [hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next st, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, sl st in next st] 9 times. Finish with hdc in next st, dc in next st, tr in next st, (tr, ch 2, tr) in next st, tr in next st, dc in next st, hdc in next st, and join with sl st to the first sl st.

(90 sts = 80 worked 1-per-st + 10 added (second tr at each tip), plus 10 ch-2 tips; 45 sts + 5 tips per side)

Each petal is hdc, dc, tr, tr, ch 2, tr, tr, dc, hdc. The graduated heights give the pointed lotus shape.

Rnd 17 (outline round): Ch 1, sc in first sl st, [sc in next 4 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in next 4 sts, sc in next sl st] 9 times, sc in next 4 sts, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in next 4 sts, sl st to first sc.

(110 sts = 90 worked 1-per-st + 20 added (2 sc per tip), plus 10 ch-2 tips; 55 sts + 5 tips per side)

Fasten off and weave in the ends.

Why the math works: Rnd 14 has 10 repeats of 1 sc + 7 dc = 8 sts, so the border starts at 10 x 8 = 80 sts with nothing added at the seams. Each later round keeps 10 equal repeats, which places every petal over a Fan and every valley over a sc column. Because 10 is even, two valleys always sit exactly opposite each other for the cord.

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all remaining ends on the wrong side.
  2. Soak the whole holder in cool water for 10 minutes, then press out the water in a towel. Don’t wring it.
  3. Set each basket over a bowl, jar or plastic-wrapped roll about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across, so the base sits flat.
  4. Shape each petal to a point and flare the tips slightly outward. Pin the tips if needed.
  5. Check each basket: opening 6.4 in (16.3 cm) across, height 3.5 in (8.9 cm).
  6. If you want firmer petals, mist them lightly with spray starch.
  7. Lay the cord straight and let everything dry completely, usually 24 hours.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • [ ] Each base measures 4.75 in (12.1 cm) and lies flat
  • [ ] Each basket has 10 Fans in Rnds 12–14 and 10 petals in the rim
  • [ ] Rnd 17 has 110 sts and 10 ch-2 tips on every basket
  • [ ] The cord valleys are opposite each other, with 5 petals per side
  • [ ] All 13 cream knots are snug, even and tied off securely
  • [ ] The cord isn’t twisted between tiers
  • [ ] The assembled holder is 18.75 in (47.6 cm) long and hangs straight
  • [ ] A roll sits upright in every basket with clearance under the basket above

Troubleshooting

  • Base ruffles: your tension is loose or the increases have drifted. Use a smaller hook for Rnds 1–10.
  • Base cups before Rnd 11: your tension is too tight. Go up a hook size or check the increase counts.
  • Fans lean or spiral: you placed a sc in the wrong dc. Each sc goes into the 4th (center) dc of a Fan.
  • Petals curl inward: this is normal with cotton before blocking. Block over a form and use starch.
  • Petals uneven in size: recount Rnd 15. It must have exactly 80 sts.
  • Holder hangs crooked: the valleys aren’t opposite, or the cord markers are off by a stitch. Re-tack the knots.
  • Roll hits the basket above: the cord stretched. Shorten the free sections by moving the Rnd 11 tacks 1–2 sts down the cord.

Care

Hand wash in cool water and lay flat or hang to dry. Reshape the petals while damp. If the bathroom gets very humid, re-starch occasionally.

Sage green and cream crocheted three-roll toilet paper holder suspended on bathroom wall beside a trailing potted plant.

Final Notes

Your measurements should follow this chain:

  • Gauge of 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm)
  • Base of 60 sts = 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across
  • Sides of 80 sts, 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall
  • Rim circumference of 20 in (50.8 cm), making a 6.4 in (16.3 cm) opening and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) baskets
  • Cord spacing of 5 in (12.7 cm) per tier
  • Finished holder 18.75 in (47.6 cm) long

If the first basket hits its checkpoints, the other two will match it and the whole holder will hang straight.

Happy crocheting!

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