This little letter A keychain turns your initial into a small piece of jewelry for a bag, keys or backpack. The letter is worked in a soft dusty rose. Three tiny flowers and three sage-green leaves run down one leg, with a gold key ring at the top.
The palette is gentle and a little vintage: rose pink for the letter, two cream blossoms, one deep burgundy blossom, mustard-yellow centers and soft sage leaves. The flat single crochet fabric is firm and looks good on both sides, so the keychain keeps its shape while it hangs.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished keychain measures 3¼ in (8.3 cm) wide and 4¼ in (10.8 cm) tall, not counting the hardware.
Construction is simple. You make two identical legs and join them with a chained crossbar. Then you work two upper arms that slant together to form the triangle hole, join them, and shape the top. One edging round outlines the outside, and a short round outlines the hole. Last, you make the flowers and leaves, sew them on and add the key ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 3¼ in (8.3 cm) wide × 4¼ in (10.8 cm) tall
- Skill level: Advanced beginner
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Sport weight (#2) cotton
- Hook: 2.75 mm (US C-2)
- Number of pieces: 1 letter, plus 3 flowers and 3 leaves sewn on
- Layout: Single letter; the appliqués run diagonally down the lower-left leg
- Letter size before edging: 3 in (7.6 cm) wide × 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- Edging depth: about ⅛ in (0.3 cm) on every edge
Materials
Use a smooth, tightly plied cotton or cotton blend of about 165 m per 50 g. Cotton gives crisp stitches and wears well on a keychain. Pick a fuzzy acrylic only if you like a softer look.
- Dusty rose (letter): 8 g, about 26 m
- Cream (2 flowers): 2 g, about 7 m
- Burgundy (1 flower): 1 g, about 3 m
- Mustard yellow (flower centers): 1 g, about 3 m
- Sage green (3 leaves): 2 g, about 7 m
These amounts include a margin for your gauge swatch and for yarn tails.
Tools:
- 2.75 mm (US C-2) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 2 stitch markers
- Gold split key ring, 1 in (2.5 cm), with a 1 in (2.5 cm) length of gold chain
- One small gold jump ring and two pairs of flat-nose pliers
- Blocking mat and rust-proof pins
- Scissors
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- MR – magic ring
Special stitch: Shift Row. In a 4-stitch strip, work 2 sc in the stitch at the inner edge, sc in the 1 middle stitch, then sc2tog over the 2 stitches at the outer edge. You still have 4 stitches, but the whole strip moves one stitch toward the center of the letter. Work the row in whichever direction you are already going: if you start at the outer edge, begin with the sc2tog and end with the 2 sc.
Inner and outer edges: On each leg, the inner edge is the edge with your starting tail. The outer edge is the opposite edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 24 sc and 26 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in single crochet. That is 6 stitches and 6.5 rows per inch.
Your first leg doubles as the gauge test, so make it before anything else.
- Leg after Row 14: about 0.67 in (1.7 cm) wide and 2.15 in (5.5 cm) tall.
- After Row 17 (crossbar done): the crossbar is 14 sts, about 2.33 in (5.9 cm) wide. The piece is about 2.6 in (6.6 cm) tall, and the bottom spans 3 in (7.6 cm).
- After Row 26: 3 in (7.6 cm) wide at the base and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
- After edging: 3¼ in (8.3 cm) × 4¼ in (10.8 cm).
If your leg is taller than 2.15 in (5.5 cm) or wider than 0.67 in (1.7 cm), go down to a 2.5 mm hook. If it is smaller, go up to a 3.0 mm hook. Check gauge again before you go on, because every count below depends on it.
Legs (Make 2)
Make both legs exactly the same. Turning chains do not count as stitches.
With dusty rose, ch 5.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, turn. (4 sts)
Rows 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (4 sts)
Row 5 (Shift Row): Ch 1, work a Shift Row, turn. (4 sts)
Rows 6–9: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (4 sts)
Row 10 (Shift Row): Ch 1, work a Shift Row, turn. (4 sts)
Rows 11–14: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (4 sts)
Row 14 ends at the outer edge. On the first leg, do not fasten off: pull up a long loop and put a marker in it. On the second leg, fasten off.
The two Shift Rows move each leg 2 stitches toward the center. This gives the A its slanted outer sides.
Crossbar
Lay the legs side by side with both starting tails on the inside. Turn the second leg over so it mirrors the first. The gap between the leg tops should be about 1 in (2.5 cm).
Row 15: Put the first leg’s loop back on the hook. Ch 1, turn, and sc in each of the 4 sts of the first leg, working toward its inner edge. Ch 6. Starting at the inner edge of the second leg, sc in each of its 4 sts. Turn. (14 sts: 4 sc + 6 ch + 4 sc)
Row 16: Ch 1, sc in each st and in each ch across, turn. (14 sts)
Row 17: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Do not turn yet. (14 sts)
At the bottom, the legs are now 10 sts, or 1.67 in (4.2 cm), apart. That is the 6-chain gap plus 2 shifts on each leg.
Upper Arms and Triangle Hole
First arm, Row 18: Ch 1, turn, sc in the first 4 sts and leave the other 10 sts unworked. Turn. (4 sts)
Row 19 (Shift Row): Ch 1, work a Shift Row, turn. (4 sts)
Row 20: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (4 sts)
Row 21 (Shift Row): Ch 1, work a Shift Row, turn. (4 sts)
Row 22: Ch 1, sc across, turn. (4 sts)
Row 23 (Shift Row): Ch 1, work a Shift Row. (4 sts)
Row 23 ends at the outer edge. Do not fasten off: put the loop on a marker.
Second arm: Join dusty rose in the stitch at the other outer end of Row 17. Work Rows 18–23 the same way: ch 1, sc in that stitch and the next 3, then continue as for the first arm. Leave exactly 6 center stitches unworked between the two arms. After Row 23, fasten off at the outer edge.
The hole starts 6 sts wide. Each Shift Row moves both arms 1 st inward, which closes the hole by 2 sts. After three shifts, the arms meet: 6 − 2 − 2 − 2 = 0.
Top Shaping
Row 24 (joining row): Put the first arm’s loop back on the hook. Ch 1, turn. Sc in each of the 4 sts of the first arm, then continue straight into the second arm and sc in each of its 4 sts. Turn. (8 sts)
Row 25: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog, turn. (6 sts)
Row 26: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 2 sts, sc2tog. (4 sts)
Checkpoint: The letter is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall and 3 in (7.6 cm) wide at the base. Row 24 is 8 sts, or 1.33 in (3.4 cm), wide. Do not fasten off.
Edging
Edging gauge: Work 1 sc in each stitch or chain loop and 1 sc in each row end. The edging adds about ⅛ in (0.3 cm) to every edge.
Outer Round: Ch 1 and turn. Work each section in order:
- Top: 2 sc in each of the 4 sts of Row 26. (8)
- First outer side: Working down the row ends from Row 26 to Row 1, 1 sc in each row end. (26)
- Leg bottom: In the free loops of the foundation chain, 3 sc in the first, sc in the next 2, 3 sc in the last. (8)
- Inner leg edge: Working up the row ends of Rows 1–14, 1 sc in each. (14)
- Crossbar underside: 1 sc in each free loop of the ch-6. (6)
- Second inner leg edge: Working down Rows 14–1, 1 sc in each row end. (14)
- Second leg bottom: As in step 3. (8)
- Second outer side: Working up Rows 1–26, 1 sc in each row end. (26)
Sl st to the first sc and fasten off.
Outer Round total: 8 + 26 + 8 + 14 + 6 + 14 + 8 + 26 = 110 sts
Hole Round: Join dusty rose in a base corner of the triangle hole. Work 1 sc in each of the 6 unworked sts of Row 17 (6). Then work 1 sc in each inner row end of Rows 18–23 up one arm (6), and 1 sc in each inner row end of Rows 23–18 down the other arm (6). Sl st to the first sc and fasten off. Total: 18 sts.
Why the math works: Row gauge is 6.5 rows per inch, a little more than the stitch gauge of 6 per inch. So one sc per row end puts in slightly more stitches than a straight vertical edge needs. The A’s sides slant, though, which makes them longer than they are tall, and the extra stitches cover that length so the edge lies flat. The 8 top stitches (2 in each st) round off the peak. The 3-sc corners keep the leg bottoms square.
Flowers (Make 2 Cream, 1 Burgundy)
Rnd 1: With mustard yellow, MR, 5 sc in the ring. Pull the ring closed and sl st to the first sc. (5 sts) Change to the petal color with that sl st, and fasten off the yellow.
Rnd 2: In each st around, work (sc, hdc, dc, hdc, sc). (5 petals, 25 sts) Sl st to the first sc and fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.
Each flower is about 1 in (2.5 cm) across, with a center about ¼ in (0.6 cm) wide.
Leaves (Make 3)
With sage green, ch 7.
First side: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in the next ch, dc in the next 2 ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the last ch. (6 sts)
Tip: Ch 2, sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook.
Second side: Working along the other side of the foundation chain, sc in the first free loop, hdc in the next, dc in the next 2, hdc in the next, sc in the last. (6 sts)
Sl st to the first sc and fasten off, leaving a tail. Total: 12 sts plus the tip. Each leaf is about 1 in (2.5 cm) long and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide.
Attaching the Appliqués and Hardware
Before sewing, block the letter (see below) and weave in all the letter’s ends.
Lay the letter flat with the right side up. Arrange the pieces down the left leg, from just below the crossbar to near the bottom:
- Pin the first leaf at the top of the cluster, pointing up and out.
- Overlap a cream flower just below it.
- Tuck the second leaf under the left edge of the cluster.
- Place the burgundy flower in the middle.
- Put the second cream flower at the bottom, with the third leaf tucked under its right side.
The flowers may extend up to ¼ in (0.6 cm) past the outer edge. Sew the leaves first, then the flowers, using the yarn tails and small stitches around each center and under each petal. Take the stitches only through the front layer of the letter so they don’t show on the back.
Open the jump ring with the pliers and pass it through the top edging, between the 4th and 5th sc of the 8 top stitches. Hook on the end chain link, then close the ring.
Final Blocking
- Wet the letter (before adding the appliqués) and roll it in a towel to press out the water.
- Pin it to the mat at 3¼ in (8.3 cm) wide × 4¼ in (10.8 cm) tall.
- Pin the leg bottoms square and the peak round.
- Put a pin at each corner of the triangle hole to open it up.
- Let it dry completely, then unpin.
- Sew on the appliqués and add the hardware.
- Steam the flowers lightly from above without pressing them flat.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The letter measures 3¼ in (8.3 cm) × 4¼ in (10.8 cm).
- Both legs slant equally, and the leg bottoms are level.
- The triangle hole is centered, 6 sts wide at the base.
- The outer edging has 110 sts; the hole edging has 18 sts.
- No edge ripples or cups.
- All five petals on each flower are even, and the yellow centers are neat.
- The leaves sit under the flowers, with their tips showing.
- No stitches show on the back.
- The jump ring is fully closed and the hardware is secure.
Troubleshooting
The legs lean differently. One Shift Row was probably worked the wrong way round. The sc2tog must always be at the outer edge.
The hole won’t close at Row 24. Count the center gap at Row 18. It must be exactly 6 unworked sts.
The edging ripples. Your hook is too large for the edging. Work the edging round with a hook 0.25 mm smaller.
The edging pulls in. Add 1 extra sc on each slanted side, and check that you didn’t skip any row ends.
The petals curl. Block them flat with a light steam.
The key ring tears at the top. Pass the jump ring through both loops of the edging plus one row below.
Care
Wipe clean or hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Press out the water and dry flat, away from heat, so the gold hardware stays bright.
Final Notes
Your measurements build on each other. The 4-stitch legs at 0.67 in (1.7 cm) wide set the crossbar at 2.33 in (5.9 cm) and the base at 3 in (7.6 cm). Twenty-six rows give the letter its 4 in (10.2 cm) height. The ⅛ in (0.3 cm) edging brings it to 3¼ in (8.3 cm) × 4¼ in (10.8 cm). Measure at each checkpoint and your initial will come out crisp and ready for its flowers.
Happy crocheting!