This hanging holder is three small heart-front baskets stacked in a column. Each basket is sized to hold a standard toilet paper roll. The lower part of every basket is a solid, rounded bowl in deep burgundy. Above it is an open pink filet mesh with a small solid heart at center front, and the front edge rises into two rounded heart lobes.
Each rim is outlined with a rope-like reverse single crochet edging. A burgundy satin ribbon bow marks the center front where the two colors meet. Two pink rope cords run down both sides to link all three baskets, and they meet at the top under a short hanging loop.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures about 7.75 in (19.7 cm) wide when flattened and 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall at the heart peaks. The assembled holder is about 22 in (55.9 cm) tall and 8 in (20.3 cm) wide.
Each basket is worked from the bottom up in joined rounds:
– a flat burgundy base
– rounded burgundy sides
– pink mesh rounds with the filet heart
Two short rows build each top lobe, and an edging round finishes the rim. The cords and loop are simple strips that you sew on at measured points.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 22 in (55.9 cm) tall x 8 in (20.3 cm) wide, assembled
- Skill level: Intermediate (filet mesh in the round, short lobe rows)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 3 baskets, 2 side cords, 1 hanging loop, 3 ribbon bows
- Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets, spaced 6 in (15.2 cm) apart from rim to rim
- Basket size: 7.75 in (19.7 cm) wide flattened x 5.25 in (13.3 cm) tall
- Size before edging: 7.75 in (19.7 cm) wide x 5 in (12.7 cm) tall
- Edging depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape, shows the mesh clearly and copes well with bathroom humidity.
- Color B (burgundy): 100 g, about 190 m (208 yd)
- Color P (coral pink): 100 g, about 190 m (208 yd)
- Ribbon: 36 in (91.4 cm) of burgundy satin ribbon, 3/8 in (1.0 cm) wide, cut into three 12 in (30.5 cm) pieces
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 3 locking stitch markers
- Scissors, measuring tape and rust-proof pins
- Sewing needle and burgundy thread for the bows
- Sturdy wall hook
These quantities include a margin of at least 25% for your gauge swatch and for differences in tension.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
- MR: magic ring
- sp: space
- st(s): stitch(es)
- RS: right side
- rev sc: reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Special stitches
- Reverse sc: Work from left to right (right-handed). Insert the hook into the next st to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through both loops. This makes the twisted rope edge.
- Open mesh: dc in the next st, ch 1, skip the next st. Each open mesh is 2 sts wide.
- Block: dc in each of the next 2 sts. Each block is 2 sts wide and solid.
Gauge and Checkpoints
- Single crochet: 14 sc and 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Mesh: 7 meshes and 8 mesh rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm), so each mesh round adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
Make one complete basket before you start the others. It is your real gauge swatch. Check it at these points:
- After Rnd 7: the flat base measures 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across.
- After Rnd 15: the circumference is about 15.4 in (39.1 cm), and the burgundy sides stand 2 in (5.1 cm) above the base.
- After Rnd 19: the sides stand 4 in (10.2 cm) above the base.
- After the lobes: the heart peaks reach 5 in (12.7 cm).
- After the edging: the peaks reach 5.25 in (13.3 cm).
If the basket is too big, use a hook 0.5 mm smaller. If it is too small, use a hook 0.5 mm larger. A standard roll is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across, so the bowl should fit around it with a little room to spare.
Basket (Make 3)
Work in joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st to the first st. The ch 1 at the start of the sc rounds does not count as a stitch.
Base and Sides (Color B)
Rnd 1: MR, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring, join. (6)
Rnd 2: ch 1, inc in each st around, join. (12)
Rnd 3: ch 1, (sc, inc) 6 times, join. (18)
Rnd 4: ch 1, (2 sc, inc) 6 times, join. (24)
Rnd 5: ch 1, (3 sc, inc) 6 times, join. (30)
Rnd 6: ch 1, (4 sc, inc) 6 times, join. (36)
Rnd 7: ch 1, (5 sc, inc) 6 times, join. (42)
Checkpoint: the base lies flat and measures 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across.
Rnd 8: ch 1, (6 sc, inc) 6 times, join. (48)
Rnd 9: ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48)
Rnd 10: ch 1, (7 sc, inc) 6 times, join. (54)
Rnds 11–15: ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (54)
Rnds 8–10 curve the sides gently outward, which gives the bowl its rounded bottom. Change to Color P on the final join of Rnd 15 and fasten off B.
Flatten the bowl so the join sits at the left edge. That edge is the front-left side. Sts 1–30 form the front and sts 31–54 form the back. Place markers in st 1, st 15 and st 31.
Filet Mesh and Heart (Color P)
Each mesh is 2 sts wide, so the 54 sts make 27 meshes. Meshes 1–15 are the front, meshes 16–27 are the back, and mesh 8 is the center front.
Rnd 16: ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip next st; this is mesh 1. Work 6 open meshes (meshes 2–7), 1 block (mesh 8), then 19 open meshes (meshes 9–27). Join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (54 sts: 27 meshes, 1 block)
From here on, start each mesh with a dc in the dc below. Then either ch 1 for an open mesh, or dc in the next st for a block. The next st may be a ch-1 sp or a dc.
Rnd 17: ch 4, work open meshes 1–6, blocks at meshes 7–9, open meshes 10–27, join. (54 sts: 3 blocks)
Rnd 18: ch 4, work open meshes 1–5, blocks at meshes 6–10, open meshes 11–27, join. (54 sts: 5 blocks)
Rnd 19: ch 4, work open meshes 1–5, blocks at meshes 6–7, an open mesh at 8, blocks at meshes 9–10, open meshes 11–27, join. (54 sts: 4 blocks) Fasten off.
The blocks form a small solid heart five meshes wide. Its point is in Rnd 16. Its two bumps are in Rnd 19, with the open mesh 8 between them.
Checkpoint: the sides stand 4 in (10.2 cm) above the base.
Heart Lobes (Color P)
Left lobe, Row 1: With RS facing, join P in the dc of mesh 1. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1). Work open meshes over meshes 2–7, then dc in the dc of mesh 8. Turn. (15 sts: 8 dc, 7 ch-1 sps)
Left lobe, Row 2: sl st in the next ch-1 sp and the next dc. Ch 4, then (dc in the next dc, ch 1) 4 times, then dc in the next dc. Leave the last mesh unworked. (11 sts: 6 dc, 5 ch-1 sps) Fasten off.
Right lobe: With RS facing, join P in the dc of mesh 9. Work Rows 1 and 2 the same way over meshes 9–15. End Row 1 with a dc in the dc of mesh 16. (Row 1: 15 sts. Row 2: 11 sts.) Fasten off.
The open space of mesh 8 between the two lobes forms the heart’s center dip.
Checkpoint: the lobe peaks reach 5 in (12.7 cm) above the base.
Make All Pieces
Baskets: Make 3. Each basket uses about 25 g of B and 20 g of P.
Side cords (make 2, Color P): Ch 75.
– Row 1: sc in the back bump of the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (74 sc) Do not turn.
– Row 2: rev sc in each st back across. (74 rev sc)
Fasten off. Each cord should measure 21 in (53.3 cm).
Hanging loop (make 1, Color P): Ch 20. Work Row 1 as for the cords. (19 sc) Work Row 2 as for the cords. (19 rev sc) Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. The strip measures about 5.5 in (14.0 cm).
Bows (make 3): Tie each 12 in (30.5 cm) piece of ribbon into a bow and trim the tails at an angle.
Layout (top to bottom):
[loop]
/ \
cord |Basket 1| cord
| |
cord |Basket 2| cord
| |
cord |Basket 3| cord
Joining
Sew each cord to the side columns of the baskets. Whipstitch through the foundation edge of the cord. Number the cord sts 1–74, starting from the top end.
- Sts 1–17: free. They run diagonally from the apex down to Basket 1, about 5 in (12.7 cm).
- Sts 18–31: sew these down the side of Basket 1. St 18 lines up with the rim, and the 14 sts cover 4 in (10.2 cm) down to the base edge.
- Sts 32–38: free. This is the gap between Baskets 1 and 2.
- Sts 39–52: sew these to Basket 2, with st 39 at the rim.
- Sts 53–59: free.
- Sts 60–73: sew these to Basket 3, with st 60 at the rim. Tuck st 74 under at the base edge.
From one rim point to the next is 21 sts (14 sewn + 7 free), which equals 6 in (15.2 cm). The total checks out: 17 + 21 + 21 + 14 + 1 = 74.
Sew the left cord along the column at the round join, which is the left edge of mesh 1. Sew the right cord along the column of the dc of mesh 16. On the burgundy rounds below, follow the same columns. Space the whipstitches evenly: about 7 cord sts beside the 4 mesh rounds, and 7 cord sts beside the 8 sc rounds.
Pin before you sew and keep the tension relaxed. Tight whipstitches make the sides pucker and tip the basket forward.
Sew the top ends (st 1) of both cords together. Fold the hanging loop in half over that join, then sew both of its ends firmly behind the apex.
Size checkpoint: the holder should hang about 22 in (55.9 cm) tall and 8 in (20.3 cm) wide, with all three baskets level.
Border (Rim Edging)
Work the edging on each basket before joining. Border gauge: 7 sc = 2 in (5.1 cm).
Edging Rnd 1: With RS facing, join P at the right side, in the dc of mesh 16. Ch 1 and work sc evenly around the whole rim, in this order:
- Back (meshes 16–27): 2 sc per mesh, for 24 sc.
- Left lobe (22 sc):
- 2 sc around the Row 1 end post
- 2 sc across the exposed Row 1 mesh
- 2 sc around the Row 2 end post
- 10 sc across the top of Row 2
- 2 sc around the other Row 2 end post
- 2 sc across the exposed Row 1 mesh
- 2 sc down the Row 1 end post
- Cleft (mesh 8 of Rnd 19): 2 sc.
- Right lobe: 22 sc, worked the same as the left lobe.
Join to the first sc. (70 sc: 24 + 22 + 2 + 22)
Edging Rnd 2: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, join. (70) Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works: one mesh is 2 sts wide, and one dc row end is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall. At border gauge, 2 sc span about 0.57 in (1.4 cm). So 2 sc per mesh or per row end lies flat, without ruffling or cupping.
Bows: Stitch one bow to the center front of each basket, on the color line just below mesh 8.
Final Blocking
- Fill each basket with a toilet roll or a rolled towel of the same size.
- Spray lightly with water until the yarn is damp but not soaked.
- Ease the mesh squares into straight columns, with the filet heart centered.
- Pin the lobes upright so the peaks stand 5.25 in (13.3 cm) above the base.
- Shape each bowl round and check that it measures 7.75 in (19.7 cm) wide when flattened.
- Let everything dry completely before you remove the forms.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] All three bases measure 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across.
- [ ] Every mesh round has 54 sts and 27 meshes.
- [ ] The filet heart sits on meshes 6–10, centered under the cleft.
- [ ] The lobe rows have 15 and 11 sts.
- [ ] Each edging round has 70 sts.
- [ ] Each cord has 74 sts and measures 21 in (53.3 cm).
- [ ] The rims are spaced 6 in (15.2 cm) apart.
- [ ] The bows are centered and secure.
- [ ] All ends are woven in.
Troubleshooting
The base ruffles: your tension is loose. Go down a hook size, and check that the increases are evenly spaced.
The bowl is too tight for the roll: the circumference is under 15.4 in (39.1 cm). Go up a hook size.
The mesh leans in a spiral: start each round with the ch 4 directly above the previous start.
The lobes flop forward: block them on a firm form, or work the edging with a smaller hook.
The baskets hang crooked: re-pin them and check the positions of cord sts 18, 39 and 60.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and dry flat over a form. If you machine wash on a gentle cycle, remove the ribbon bows first.
Final Notes
Here is the full measurement chain:
- 14 sc measure 4 in (10.2 cm).
- The base grows to 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across.
- 54 sts give a circumference of 15.4 in (39.1 cm).
- The sides reach 4 in (10.2 cm), the lobes 5 in (12.7 cm) and the edged peaks 5.25 in (13.3 cm).
- The 74-st cords set the rims 6 in (15.2 cm) apart.
- The finished holder hangs 22 in (55.9 cm) tall.
Happy crocheting!