This teardrop bag holder takes a pile of loose plastic shopping bags and turns it into a neat piece of wall decor. Rounds of open fans stagger up the body like fish scales, and the top narrows into a short, solid neck with a hanging loop. At the bottom, a drawstring with two little balls gathers the opening, so you can pull out one bag at a time.
The sample is made in a soft lavender cotton. One color keeps the lace looking clean and shows off the fan texture. It suits a kitchen, laundry room, or pantry door.
The finished holder is 9 in (22.9 cm) wide at its widest point and 14 in (35.6 cm) tall, not counting the hanging loop, which adds 3.5 in (8.9 cm). The pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.
Construction overview: You work the body in one piece in the round, from the bottom up. It starts with a band that has an eyelet round for the drawstring. Then come fan and arch rounds that grow and then shrink, then a decrease round, then a solid half double crochet neck. A short border finishes the top rim and the bottom edge. Last, you make the cords and balls and attach them.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 9 in (22.9 cm) wide x 14 in (35.6 cm) tall, laid flat
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton
- Hook: US 7 (4.5 mm)
- Number of pieces: 1 body, plus 1 hanging loop, 1 drawstring, and 2 balls
- Layout: One seamless tube, worked bottom-up in joined rounds
- Body size before border: 9 in (22.9 cm) wide x 13.3 in (33.8 cm) tall
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) at the top rim; 0.2 in (0.5 cm) at the bottom edge
- Bottom opening when cinched: about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the fan shapes well, doesn’t sag under the weight of the bags, and can be washed. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy acrylic, which blurs the lace.
- Lavender: 100 g / 170 m (about 186 yd)
The amount above includes a margin of about 20 percent for your gauge swatch and any reworked rounds.
Tools:
- US 7 (4.5 mm) crochet hook
- Locking stitch marker
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat
- A small amount of fiberfill or yarn scraps for the balls
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- MR – magic ring
Special stitches:
- Fan: The number of dc given (5, 7, 9, or 11), all worked into the same stitch.
- Rev sc: Work single crochet from left to right (right-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm). In hdc, 13 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm). One fan round is about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) tall, and one arch round is about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.
Test first: Before you start the body, crochet a 5 in (12.7 cm) square of sc and measure the middle 4 in (10.2 cm). Then work Rnds 1–4 of the body and lay the band flat. That small band tells you whether the full holder will come out the right size.
Checkpoints (measured flat):
- After Rnd 4: 7.5 in (19.1 cm) wide, 1.2 in (3.0 cm) tall
- After Rnd 13: 9 in (22.9 cm) wide, 7 in (17.8 cm) tall
- After Rnd 19: about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide at the top edge, 10.7 in (27.2 cm) tall
- After Rnd 21: 3 in (7.6 cm) wide, 11.2 in (28.4 cm) tall
- After Rnd 28: 3 in (7.6 cm) wide, 13.3 in (33.8 cm) tall
If your piece is too big, go down one hook size. If it’s too small, go up one hook size. Fix the width at the Rnd 4 checkpoint, before any lace is worked. If only the height is off, crochet the fans a little looser or tighter rather than adding rounds. Adding rounds would break the fan rhythm.

Body
Join every round with a sl st to the first stitch. The beginning ch-1 never counts as a stitch. In fan rounds, the beginning ch-3 counts as a dc.
Bottom Band
Foundation: Ch 60 and sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Don’t twist the chain.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around. (60 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around. (60 sc)
Rnd 3 (eyelets): Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), skip 1 st, dc in next st, ch 1, skip 1 st. Repeat from * around and join to the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (30 dc + 30 ch-1 sps = 60 sts)
Rnd 4 (conversion): Ch 1, sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp around. (30 sc in the dc + 30 sc in the sps = 60 sc)
Fan Section
There are two kinds of fan round, and they alternate so the fans stagger.
- Fan Round X starts with a sc and has 6 full fans.
- Fan Round Y starts with half a fan, which you complete at the end of the round.
Each arch round places 12 sc. Fans sit on every other sc, and the chain arches are skipped. Skipping the arches is what makes the small round holes between the tiers.
Rnd 5 (Fan X): Ch 1, sc in first st, skip 4 sts, 9 dc in next st, skip 4 sts, sc in next st. Repeat from * around, ending the last repeat with skip 4 sts. Join to the first sc. (6 fans + 6 sc = 60 sts)
Rnd 6 (Arch, after X): Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 4, sc in 5th dc of next fan, ch 4, sc in next sc. Repeat from * around, leaving off the final sc, and join to the first sc. (12 sc + 48 ch = 60 sts)
Rnd 7 (Fan Y): Ch 3, 4 dc in first sc, sc in next sc, 9 dc in next sc. Repeat from * 4 more times. Then sc in next sc and 4 dc in the first sc, and join to the top of the ch-3. (6 fans + 6 sc = 60 sts)
Rnd 8 (Arch, after Y, growth round): Ch 1, sc in same st as join, ch 5, sc in next sc, ch 5, sc in 5th dc of next fan, ch 5, sc in next sc. Repeat from * 4 more times. Ch 5 and join to the first sc. (12 sc + 60 ch = 72 sts)
Rnd 9 (Fan X): Ch 1, sc in first sc, 11 dc in next sc, sc in next sc. Repeat from * around, leaving off the final sc, and join. (6 fans + 6 sc = 72 sts)
Rnd 10 (Arch, after X): Work as Rnd 6, but with ch 5 arches and the sc in the 6th dc of each fan. (12 sc + 60 ch = 72 sts)
Rnd 11 (Fan Y): Ch 3, 5 dc in first sc, sc in next sc, 11 dc in next sc. Repeat from * 4 more times. Then sc in next sc and 5 dc in the first sc, and join. (6 fans + 6 sc = 72 sts)
Rnd 12 (Arch, after Y): Work as Rnd 8, but with the sc in the 6th dc of each fan. (12 sc + 60 ch = 72 sts)
Rnd 13 (Fan X): Work as Rnd 9. (72 sts) The body should now measure 9 in (22.9 cm) wide, which is the widest part of the teardrop.
Rnd 14 (Arch, after X, decrease round): Work as Rnd 6, with ch 4 arches and the sc in the 6th dc of each fan. (12 sc + 48 ch = 60 sts)
Rnd 15 (Fan Y): Work as Rnd 7. (60 sts)
Rnd 16 (Arch, after Y, decrease round): Ch 1, sc in same st as join, ch 3, sc in next sc, ch 3, sc in 5th dc of next fan, ch 3, sc in next sc. Repeat from * 4 more times. Ch 3 and join. (12 sc + 36 ch = 48 sts)
Rnd 17 (Fan X): Ch 1, sc in first sc, 7 dc in next sc, sc in next sc. Repeat from * around, leaving off the final sc, and join. (6 fans + 6 sc = 48 sts)
Rnd 18 (Arch, after X, decrease round): Ch 1, sc in first sc, ch 2, sc in 4th dc of next fan, ch 2, sc in next sc. Repeat from * around, leaving off the final sc, and join. (12 sc + 24 ch = 36 sts)
Rnd 19 (Fan Y): Ch 3, 2 dc in first sc, sc in next sc, 5 dc in next sc. Repeat from * 4 more times. Then sc in next sc and 2 dc in the first sc, and join. (6 fans + 6 sc = 36 sts)
Neck
Rnd 20: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in each dc and sc around. (36 sc)
Rnd 21 (decrease round): Ch 1, sc in next st, sc2tog. Repeat from * around. (12 sc + 12 sc2tog = 24 sts)
Rnds 22–28: Ch 2 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc in each st around, and join to the first hdc. (24 hdc in each round)
The neck is now a firm tube 3 in (7.6 cm) wide when flat. Don’t fasten off.
Border
Border gauge: The border keeps the body gauge of 4 sc per inch. Laid flat, the top rim has 12 sts per side (front and back), and the bottom edge has 30 sts per side. The rounds have no corners, so there are no corner stitches to add.
Rnd 29 (top rim): Ch 1, sc in each st around. (24 sc: 12 per side)
Rnd 30 (top rim): Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. (24 rev sc: 12 per side) Fasten off and weave in the end.
Bottom edge: Turn the body upside down. Join the yarn in any ch of the foundation ring. Ch 1, then rev sc in each ch around, working into the remaining loop of each ch. (60 rev sc: 30 per side) Fasten off.
Why the math works: The border stitches match the stitch counts they sit on exactly: 24 on 24 and 60 on 60. At 4 sts per inch, 24 sts measure 6 in (15.2 cm) around, which is 3 in (7.6 cm) flat. Likewise, 60 sts measure 15 in (38.1 cm) around, which is 7.5 in (19.1 cm) flat. Because nothing is added or taken away, the edges neither flare nor pucker. The rev sc gives the rolled, corded rim you see in the photo.
Hanging Loop
Ch 36. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into the back bump of each ch. (35 sl sts) The cord measures 7 in (17.8 cm).
Fold the cord in half. Pass both ends into the neck at the back, in line with the round joins, between Rnds 26 and 27. Sew the ends securely to the inside of the neck. The loop should stand 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the rim.
Drawstring
Ch 151. Starting in the 2nd ch from the hook, sl st into the back bump of each ch. (150 sl sts) The cord measures 30 in (76.2 cm).
Balls (Make 2)
Rnd 1: Work 6 sc into an MR. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Sc in each st around. (12 sc)
Rnd 4: Sc2tog around. (6 sts)
Stuff the ball firmly, then close the hole with the yarn tail. Each ball is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) across.
Attach the Drawstring
Start at the front center. Weave the drawstring over and under through the 30 ch-1 eyelets of Rnd 3 so that both ends come out of neighboring eyelets at the front. Sew one ball to each cord end. Pull the cord until the bottom opening is about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across, then tie a bow.
Final Blocking
- Untie the bow and loosen the drawstring.
- Soak the holder in cool water for 10 minutes. Press the water out without wringing.
- Lay it flat on the blocking mat with the neck centered.
- Pin the widest point (Rnd 13) to 9 in (22.9 cm) and the neck to 3 in (7.6 cm).
- Pin the tip of each fan so it spreads evenly and every hole is open.
- Pin the length to 14 in (35.6 cm) from the bottom edge to the top rim.
- Let it dry completely, then retie the bow.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every fan round has 6 fans, and each fan sits centered between two fans of the round below.
- Stitch counts match: 60, 72, 60, 48, 36, 24 at each size change.
- Width is 9 in (22.9 cm) at the widest point and 3 in (7.6 cm) at the neck.
- Height is 14 in (35.6 cm), plus the 3.5 in (8.9 cm) loop.
- The rev sc rims lie smooth and don’t ripple.
- The loop is stitched firmly and doesn’t pull the neck sideways.
- The drawstring slides freely, and the balls are secure.
Troubleshooting
Fans are stacking instead of staggering: You worked two Fan X rounds or two Fan Y rounds in a row. Check that each fan round alternates with the one before it.
Wrong arch count: You need exactly 12 sc in every arch round. Count them before you work the next fan round.
The body ruffles at Rnd 8: Your chains are too loose. Tighten the ch-5 arches or go down a hook size.
The neck flares: Make sure you didn’t skip the Rnd 21 decreases. Then work the hdc a little more firmly.
The bottom bunches when cinched: Weave the drawstring evenly through all 30 eyelets, without skipping any.
The balls look flat: Add more stuffing before closing them.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, reshape, and dry flat. Don’t hang the holder up while it’s wet, because the weight of the water stretches the fans.

Final Notes
The measurements build on each other in a chain. The 60-stitch base gives a 7.5 in (19.1 cm) band. The 72-stitch fan section widens it to 9 in (22.9 cm). The rounds step down through 60, 48, and 36 stitches to the 24-stitch neck, which is 3 in (7.6 cm) wide. A matched 24-stitch rim and 60-stitch bottom edge then finish the holder at 14 in (35.6 cm) tall. If you check your width at Rnds 4, 13, and 21, the holder will come out the right size.
Happy crocheting!