This lace curtain is made from 30 cream squares. Each one has a lavender flower sewn on top, and the light shows through the open mesh between the flowers.
The palette has two colors. Cream works the lace squares, the border and the hanging tabs. Lavender works the three-layer petals, and a little cream goes in the center of each flower. The look is soft and romantic, and it also suits a holiday room.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished curtain measures 50 x 42 in (127.0 x 106.7 cm), not counting the tabs. The tabs stand about 2 in (5.1 cm) above the top edge.
Here is how it goes together. You crochet each lace square in the round, then make a separate layered flower and sew it to the center. You join the squares flat into a grid of 6 x 5, add a 3-round border, and work 7 tabs straight off the top edge.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 50 x 42 in (127.0 x 106.7 cm), plus tabs
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 30 lace squares + 30 flowers
- Layout: 6 squares wide x 5 squares tall
- Piece size: 8 x 8 in (20.3 x 20.3 cm), blocked
- Size before border: 48 x 40 in (121.9 x 101.6 cm)
- Border depth: 1 in (2.5 cm) on each side
Materials
Use a smooth, mercerized or matte cotton in worsted weight. Cotton holds the lace open and blocks crisply. The squares will also stay flat while the curtain hangs. Avoid fuzzy yarns, because they blur the mesh.
Yarn (about 180 m per 100 g):
- Cream: 600 g / 1,080 m (squares, flower centers, border, tabs)
- Lavender: 300 g / 540 m (flowers)
These quantities include a margin of about 10–15% for gauge swatches and tension differences.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers (at least 8)
- Rust-proof pins and blocking mats
- Measuring tape
- Scissors
- Spray bottle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- MR – magic ring
- BLO / FLO – back loop only / front loop only
Special stitches:
- Puff: (Yo, insert hook in st, pull up a loop to dc height) 3 times, yo and pull through all 7 loops. Close with ch 1, which does not count as a st.
- Beginning puff: Ch 2, then work a puff with only 2 loops pulled up instead of 3.
- Leaf cluster (5-tr cl): *Yo twice, insert hook in st, pull up a loop, (yo, pull through 2 loops) twice; repeat from * 4 more times in the same st, yo and pull through all 6 loops.
- Point: Ch 2 (or ch 3), sl st in 2nd (or 3rd) ch from hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make one complete square and block it before you start the others. The square is the gauge.
- After Round 4: The circle measures 4.25 in (10.8 cm) across.
- After Round 7: The square measures 7.25 in (18.4 cm) per side.
- After Round 8: The square measures 8 in (20.3 cm) per side, with 33 sc per side.
- Flower: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across, tip to tip.
If the square is too big: go down a half size to a 4.5 mm hook.
If it is too small: go up to a 5.5 mm hook.
Fix gauge on the first square. A difference of 0.25 in (0.6 cm) per square adds up to 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across the width of the curtain.
Lace Square (make 30, cream)
Round 1: MR, ch 3 (counts as dc), 15 dc in ring. Sl st to the top of ch-3. (16 dc)
Round 2: Beginning puff in the same st, ch 3, skip next st. (Puff in next st, ch 3, skip next st) 7 times. Sl st to the top of the first puff. (8 puffs, 8 ch-3 sps)*
This round forms the small inner flower.
Round 3: Ch 1, sc in the top of the same puff, ch 5. (Sc in the top of the next puff, ch 5) 7 times. Sl st to the first sc. (8 sc, 8 ch-5 loops)*
Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 5 dc in the next ch-5 loop. (Dc in the next sc, 5 dc in the next ch-5 loop) 7 times. Sl st to the top of ch-3. (48 dc)*
This is the solid ring. Check that it measures 4.25 in (10.8 cm) across.
Round 5 (squaring round): The round divides into 4 quarters of 12 dc each. Place a marker in every 12th dc (on dc 1, 13, 25 and 37); these are the corner sts.
Sl st in the first marked dc. In that dc work (ch 4 [counts as tr], ch 2, 5-tr cl, ch 2, tr).
Ch 2, skip 1, dc in next; ch 2, skip 1, hdc in next; ch 2, skip 1, sc in next; ch 2, skip 1, hdc in next; ch 2, skip 1, dc in next; ch 2, skip 1.
In the next marked dc work (tr, ch 2, 5-tr cl, ch 2, tr). Repeat from * twice more, then the * to * section once. Sl st to the top of the beginning ch-4.
(4 leaf clusters, 8 tr, 8 dc, 8 hdc, 4 sc, 32 ch-2 sps)
Each leaf cluster sits on the diagonal and points toward its corner. Between two leaves, each side has 7 posts (tr, dc, hdc, sc, hdc, dc, tr) and 8 ch-2 sps.
Round 6 (straightening round): Sl st across to the top of the first leaf cluster. Ch 3 (counts as dc), (dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the top of the cluster.
Each side is worked in this order (a–o):
- a–d: 2 dc in the ch-2 sp, dc in the tr, 2 dc in the ch-2 sp, dc in the dc.
- e–k: 2 tr in the ch-2 sp, tr in the hdc, 2 tr in the ch-2 sp, tr in the sc, 2 tr in the ch-2 sp, tr in the hdc, 2 tr in the ch-2 sp.
- l–o: dc in the dc, 2 dc in the ch-2 sp, dc in the tr, 2 dc in the ch-2 sp.
Then work (2 dc, ch 3, 2 dc) in the top of the next leaf cluster. Repeat this side sequence around, omitting the last corner group. Sl st to the top of ch-3.
(27 sts per side between corner ch-3 sps: 2 + 6 + 11 + 6 + 2. 108 sts + 4 ch-3 sps in total)
The tr in the middle of each side lift the low center up to the height of the corners.
Round 7 (filet frame): Sl st into the corner ch-3 sp. Ch 6 (counts as dc + ch 3), dc in the same sp.
Ch 1, skip next st, (dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st) 13 times, (dc, ch 3, dc) in the corner sp. Repeat around, omitting the last corner group. Sl st to the 3rd ch of ch-6.
(Per side: 15 dc including the 2 corner dc, and 14 ch-1 sps. Check: 1 + 13 x 2 = 27 sts used.)
Round 8: Ch 1. Sc in each dc and in each ch-1 sp, and 3 sc in each corner ch-3 sp. Sl st to the first sc. Fasten off.
(29 sc along each side + 3 sc per corner = 128 sc. That is 33 sc per side, counting the 2 corner sc.)
Check: 4 x 33 − 4 shared corners = 128.
Layered Flower (make 30)
Round 1 (cream): MR, ch 1, 10 sc in ring. Sl st to the first sc. Change to lavender. (10 sc)
Round 2 (BLO): Ch 1, 2 sc in each st. Sl st to join. (20 sc)
Round 3 (BLO): Ch 1, (sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 10 times. Join. (30 sc)
Round 4 (BLO): Ch 1, (sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 10 times. Join. (40 sc)
Outer petals (both loops of Round 4): (Sc, hdc) in next st, (dc, tr) in next st, ch 3 point, (tr, dc) in next st, (hdc, sc) in next st. Repeat 9 more times. (10 petals, 4 sts each)
Middle petals (free FLO of Round 3): Sl st into the first free front loop of Round 3. (Sc, dc) in next loop, (tr, ch 3 point, tr) in next loop, (dc, sc) in next loop. Repeat 9 more times. (10 petals, 3 loops each)
Inner petals (free FLO of Round 2): Sl st into Round 2. (Sc, hdc, dc) in next loop, ch 2 point, (dc, hdc, sc) in next loop. Repeat 9 more times. (10 petals, 2 loops each)
Fasten off, leaving a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail for sewing.
Attach: Center the flower over Rounds 1–3 of the square. Sew through the back of flower Rounds 2–4, all the way around. Then tack 5 alternate outer petal tips to Round 4 of the square so they stay flat when the curtain hangs.
Make All Pieces
- Cream: 30 lace squares + 30 flower centers
- Lavender: 30 flowers
All 30 squares are identical. Block each one to 8 in (20.3 cm) before you join it.
Layout (F = cream square with lavender flower):
ROW 1: F F F F F F
ROW 2: F F F F F F
ROW 3: F F F F F F
ROW 4: F F F F F F
ROW 5: F F F F F F
Joining
Method: Flat slip-stitch join through the back loops, using cream.
- Lay two squares side by side, right sides up.
- Work 1 sl st through the back loop of matching sts on both squares. Join all 33 sts on that edge, corner to corner, stitch for stitch.
- Join squares into 5 horizontal strips of 6 squares. That is 5 short seams of 33 sts per strip.
- Join the strips with 4 long seams of 6 x 33 = 198 sts. At each four-way meeting point, keep the corner sc aligned.
Tension: Keep the slip stitches loose, about as long as an sc is wide. Tight seams pucker the lace and pull the curtain shorter. If seams buckle, go up to a 5.5 mm hook for joining only.
Size checkpoint: The joined panel measures 48 x 40 in (121.9 x 101.6 cm).
Border
Border gauge: The border uses the same gauge as Round 8, about 4.1 sc per inch. The 3 rounds together make 1 in (2.5 cm) of depth.
Starting count:
- Top and bottom: 6 squares x 33 sc = 198 sts
- Sides: 5 squares x 33 sc = 165 sts
You work into both corner sc of each square at every seam. No sts are added or skipped at seams.
Round 1: Join cream in a curtain corner st. Work sc in each st around, and (sc, ch 2, sc) in each of the 4 curtain corner sts. Join.
(198 sc on top and bottom, 165 sc on each side, between corner ch-2 sps)
Round 2: Sl st into the corner sp. Ch 3, (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp. Dc in each sc, and (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each corner sp. Join.
(Top and bottom: 2 + 198 + 2 = 202 dc. Sides: 2 + 165 + 2 = 169 dc.)
Round 3: Ch 1. Sc in each dc, and (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner sp. Join. Do not fasten off if you are starting the tabs at the top right corner. Otherwise, fasten off.
(Top and bottom: 1 + 202 + 1 = 204 sc. Sides: 1 + 169 + 1 = 171 sc.)
Hanging tabs (make 7): Count the 204 top sts from the right corner. Work tabs over sts 1–6, 34–39, 67–72, 100–105, 133–138, 166–171 and 199–204.
- Row 1: Join with sc in the first st of the tab, sc in the next 5 sts. (6 sc)
- Rows 2–18: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. (6 sc)
Fold each tab to the back. Sew the last row to Round 1 of the border. This makes a loop that fits a rod up to 1.25 in (3.2 cm) thick.
Why the math works:
- Each square has 33 sts per side, so the border starts with 198 and 165 sts.
- Round 2 adds 4 sts per side (2 at each corner), and Round 3 adds 2. That gives 204 and 171.
- On the top edge, 7 tabs x 6 sts + 6 gaps x 27 sts = 42 + 162 = 204.
- Rounds 2 and 3 shift the count by 3 sts at each end, so the square edges fall between sts 36/37, 69/70, 102/103, 135/136 and 168/169. Each inner tab is therefore centered exactly on a seam.
Final Blocking
- Soak the curtain in cool water for 15 minutes. Press the water out gently; do not wring.
- Roll it in towels to remove extra water.
- Lay it flat on mats, right side up.
- Pin the outer edge to 50 x 42 in (127.0 x 106.7 cm), starting with the 4 corners.
- Pin each seam line straight, measuring 8 in (20.3 cm) between seams.
- Fluff the petals upward with your fingers, and lightly mist the flowers.
- Let it dry completely, then unpin and fold the tabs.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] All 30 squares measure 8 in (20.3 cm) per side
- [ ] Every square has 33 sc per side
- [ ] All flowers are centered and the petal tips are tacked
- [ ] Seams are flat, and corners meet at every intersection
- [ ] Border counts are 204 / 171 per side
- [ ] All 7 tabs are evenly spaced and the same length
- [ ] The panel measures 50 x 42 in (127.0 x 106.7 cm)
- [ ] All tails are woven in and trimmed
Troubleshooting
- The square cups: Round 6 is too tight. Loosen your tr, or go up a hook size for Rounds 6–7.
- The square ruffles: Your tension is loose. Go down a hook size, or check that Round 7 has exactly 13 repeats per side.
- The sides bow inward: Check that the tr in Round 6 sit over the hdc/sc section, not the dc.
- The flowers droop when the curtain hangs: Tack more petal tips, and add a stitch through the flower’s Round 4.
- The curtain is narrower than 50 in (127.0 cm): The seams are tight. Re-block the curtain, or redo the seams with a bigger hook.
- The tabs sit off the seams: Recount the top of Round 3. It must have 204 sts.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent, then reshape and dry flat. Do not tumble dry, or the petals and the lace will lose their shape.
Final Notes
Here is the measurement chain:
- Round 4 circle: 4.25 in (10.8 cm)
- Finished square: 8 in (20.3 cm) with 33 sc per side
- Joined panel: 48 x 40 in (121.9 x 101.6 cm)
- Border counts: 204 / 171 sts per side
- Finished curtain: 50 x 42 in (127.0 x 106.7 cm), with 7 tabs on top
If your first square hits its checkpoints, the rest of the curtain will come out to size.
Happy crocheting!