This little hat swaps classic red for warm mustard yellow. The cone is worked in tight single crochet rounds. Its narrow tip bends over to one side, and a bobbly white pom-pom sits on the end. A soft, ribbed white brim finishes the bottom edge, and a yellow loop lets it hang from a branch.
The finished ornament is about 4 in (10.2 cm) wide across the brim and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall with the tip folded. This measurement leaves out the hanging loop. It suits a golden or neutral tree, gift toppers or a cozy cottage-style holiday table.
This pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.
You work the cone from the tip down in continuous rounds, and its last round is white. The brim is then worked sideways onto that white round, one row per stitch, so it gets vertical ribs. Last, you make a small bobble ball for the pom-pom, bend the tip over, tack it in place and add the hanging loop.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 4 in (10.2 cm) wide × 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall, tip folded
- Skill level: Easy–Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: DK (light worsted, #3)
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4)
- Number of pieces: 1 hat body with brim, plus 1 pom-pom
- Layout: Single standalone ornament
- Cone size before brim (Rnd 25): 6.4 in (16.3 cm) around, 3.2 in (8.1 cm) wide when flat, 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall unfolded
- Size before brim (Rnd 26, white): 8 in (20.3 cm) around, 4 in (10.2 cm) wide when flat
- Brim depth: 1 in (2.5 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth DK yarn in cotton or a cotton-acrylic blend. It gives the crisp stitch definition you see in the photo. Fuzzy yarns hide both the ribs and the bobbles.
- Mustard yellow: 10 g, about 24 m (26 yd), for the cone and hanging loop
- White: 10 g, about 24 m (26 yd), for the last cone round, the brim and the pom-pom
These amounts include a margin. The ornament itself uses about 7 g of each color.
Tools:
– 3.5 mm (E-4) crochet hook
– Stitch marker
– Tapestry needle
– Small amount of polyester fiberfill
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- BLO – back loop only
- MR – magic ring
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- Rnd – round
Special stitch – Bobble (3-dc bobble): Yarn over, insert the hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops. Repeat from * to * 2 more times in the same stitch (4 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops. A bobble counts as 1 stitch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 20 sc × 22 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in tight amigurumi-style single crochet. That works out to 5 sc and 5.5 rounds per inch.
Brim gauge: 5 rows of sc in BLO = 1 in (2.5 cm) along the band, and 5 sts = 1 in (2.5 cm) across the band.
Make the cone through Rnd 25 first, then check it before you add the white round.
- After Rnd 12: the cone is about 2.2 in (5.6 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 25: it is 6.4 in (16.3 cm) around, or 3.2 in (8.1 cm) across when flat, and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 26: it is 8 in (20.3 cm) around, or 4 in (10.2 cm) across when flat.
- After the brim: the brim is 1 in (2.5 cm) deep all the way around.
If your cone is too big, go down to a 3.25 mm or 3.0 mm hook. If it is too small, go up to a 3.75 mm hook. Change the hook, not the stitch counts. The brim math depends on the exact 40-stitch count in Rnd 26.
Hat Cone
Work in continuous rounds without joining. Place the marker in the first stitch of each round and move it up as you go.
With yellow:
Rnd 1: 4 sc in MR. (4 sts)
Rnd 2: (sc, inc) × 2. (6 sts)
Rnds 3–6: sc in each st around. (6 sts)
These four plain rounds make the narrow tube that will bend over later.
Rnd 7: (2 sc, inc) × 2. (8 sts)
Rnd 8: sc around. (8 sts)
Rnd 9: (3 sc, inc) × 2. (10 sts)
Rnd 10: sc around. (10 sts)
Rnd 11: (4 sc, inc) × 2. (12 sts)
Rnd 12: sc around. (12 sts)
Checkpoint: the cone is about 2.2 in (5.6 cm) tall.
Rnd 13: (3 sc, inc) × 3. (15 sts)
Rnd 14: sc around. (15 sts)
Rnd 15: (4 sc, inc) × 3. (18 sts)
Rnd 16: sc around. (18 sts)
Rnd 17: (5 sc, inc) × 3. (21 sts)
Rnd 18: sc around. (21 sts)
Rnd 19: (6 sc, inc) × 3. (24 sts)
Rnd 20: sc around. (24 sts)
Rnd 21: (5 sc, inc) × 4. (28 sts)
Rnd 22: sc around. (28 sts)
Rnd 23: (6 sc, inc) × 4. (32 sts)
Rnds 24–25: sc around. (32 sts)
Checkpoint: the cone is 6.4 in (16.3 cm) around and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall when unfolded.
The cone grows by only a few stitches every other round. That keeps the sides fairly straight and gives the tall, slim shape in the photo.
Change to white in the last stitch of Rnd 25. Fasten off yellow, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail and weaving it in on the inside.
Rnd 26 (white, conversion round): (3 sc, inc) × 8. That is 32 sc worked one per existing stitch, plus 8 added stitches, for 40 sts. Sl st into the next stitch. Do not fasten off.
Checkpoint: the edge is 8 in (20.3 cm) around and 4 in (10.2 cm) across when flat.
This round flares the edge so the brim sits slightly wider than the cone, as it does in the photo.
Stuffing: Push a small amount of fiberfill into the cone from Rnd 8 down to about Rnd 22. Use just enough to hold the shape. Keep Rnds 1–7 unstuffed so the tip bends easily.
Pom-Pom
With white:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: (sc, bobble) × 6. (12 sts)
Rnd 4: (bobble, sc) × 6. (12 sts)
Each bobble in this round sits above a sc from Rnd 3.
Rnd 5: (sc, bobble) × 6. (12 sts)
The bobbles push out on the far side of your work, so they face the inside of the little cup. Gently turn the cup inside out so they sit on the outside.
Rnd 6: sc2tog × 6. (6 sts)
Stuff the ball firmly before the opening closes. Fasten off with a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. Thread the tail through the front loops of the last 6 stitches and pull it closed. Keep this tail for sewing.
The finished pom-pom is about 1 in (2.5 cm) across.
Border (Ribbed Brim)
The brim is worked sideways onto Rnd 26 of the cone. Each row is 5 stitches long and joins to 1 stitch of Rnd 26. Working in BLO makes the vertical ridges.
Border gauge: 5 rows = 1 in (2.5 cm) along the band, and 5 sts = 1 in (2.5 cm) deep.
You should still have the white loop on your hook after the sl st that closed Rnd 26. That sl st sits in stitch 1 of Rnd 26 and counts as the join for the first row.
Row 1: Ch 6. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in the next 4 ch. (5 sc) Ch 1, turn.
This row runs away from the hat, toward the bottom edge of the brim.
Row 2: sc BLO in each of the 5 sts, working back toward the hat. Sl st into stitches 2 and 3 of Rnd 26. Turn. (5 sc)
Row 3: Skip the 2 sl sts. Sc BLO in each of the 5 sts. Ch 1, turn. (5 sc)
Row 4: sc BLO in each of the 5 sts, then sl st into the next 2 stitches of Rnd 26 (stitches 4 and 5). Turn. (5 sc)
Rows 5–39: Repeat Rows 3 and 4. Each even row ends with a sl st into the next 2 stitches of Rnd 26. Row 38 joins into stitches 38 and 39. (5 sc in each row)
Row 40: sc BLO in each of the 5 sts. Sl st into stitch 40 of Rnd 26 only. (5 sc)
Close the brim: Fold the band so Row 40 lines up with the starting chain of Row 1. Sl st through both edges in each of the 5 stitches. Fasten off and weave in the end along the seam.
Why the math works:
– Every row of the brim uses exactly 1 stitch of Rnd 26: stitch 1 at the start, 2 for each of Rows 2–38 (19 even rows, 38 sts) and 1 for Row 40. That adds up to 1 + 38 + 1 = 40 stitches, for 40 rows.
– At 5 rows per inch, 40 rows measure 8 in (20.3 cm). That equals Rnd 26’s 40 stitches at 5 sts per inch, also 8 in (20.3 cm).
– Because the lengths match, the brim lies smooth without ruffling or pulling in.
– The 5 stitches per row give the 1 in (2.5 cm) depth.
– The 40 rows make 20 raised ribs around the hat.
Assembly and Final Blocking
- Bend the tip. Fold the narrow tip (Rnds 1–7) over to one side and down along the outside of the cone. The end of the tip should rest at about Rnd 13–14.
- Tack the tip. Use a yellow tail or a new 8 in (20.3 cm) strand. Sew 2–3 small stitches through the tip near Rnd 3 and into the cone side. Pull them just snug. Weave in the end.
- Attach the pom-pom. Center it on the very end of the bent tip so it hangs slightly past the side of the cone. Sew it on with its tail, going around the magic ring of the cone tip 3–4 times. Weave in the end.
- Add the hanging loop. Cut 12 in (30.5 cm) of yellow yarn and thread it through the top of the bend, under 2 stitches. Even up the ends and tie them in a tight overhand knot. Trim the ends to 0.25 in (0.6 cm). The finished loop is about 5 in (12.7 cm) long.
- Steam the brim. Hold a steam iron 1 in (2.5 cm) above the brim without touching it. Shape the ribs with your fingers so they stand straight and vertical.
- Shape and dry. Pinch the cone into a smooth, even taper. Let it dry upright over a small bottle or a cone of rolled paper.
- Measure. The brim should be 4 in (10.2 cm) across and 1 in (2.5 cm) deep. The hat should be about 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall with the tip folded.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Rnd 25 has 32 sts, and Rnd 26 has 40 sts.
- [ ] The brim has 40 rows and 20 ribs, all running vertically.
- [ ] The brim seam lies flat and is hard to spot.
- [ ] The cone is lightly stuffed and smooth, with no fiberfill showing through.
- [ ] The tip bends cleanly to one side and is held by small, hidden tacking stitches.
- [ ] The pom-pom is round, firmly stuffed and has the bobbles facing out.
- [ ] The hanging loop is centered, so the hat hangs level.
- [ ] Every yarn end is woven in and trimmed.
- [ ] It measures 4 in (10.2 cm) wide × 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall.
Troubleshooting
The brim ruffles. Your rows are shorter than 1/5 in (0.5 cm) each. Rework the brim with a hook one size larger, or check that every even row joins only 2 stitches.
The brim pulls the cone in. Your rows are too tall. Go down one hook size for the brim, or make sure you skip both sl sts at the start of each odd row.
The stitch count is off in Rnd 26. Count Rnd 25 again: it must be exactly 32. Then repeat (3 sc, inc) exactly 8 times.
The tip won’t bend. It is overstuffed. Pull out some fiberfill so Rnds 1–7 stay empty.
The bobbles are hiding inside the pom-pom. Turn the ball inside out before Rnd 6. If it is already closed, remake it. It takes only a few minutes.
The cone leans. Your increases are stacking on one side, which is normal in spiral rounds. Shape the cone by hand while steaming, or move the starting point of the increase repeats by 1 stitch every other increase round.
Holes show around the increases. Go down a hook size for the cone.
Care
Spot clean with cool water and mild soap, then reshape and let the ornament air dry. Store it flat in a box so the brim and tip keep their shape.
Final Notes
Each stage depends on the one before it. A gauge of 5 sc and 5.5 rounds per inch gives a 32-stitch cone base that measures 6.4 in (16.3 cm) around. The white conversion round brings that to 40 stitches and 8 in (20.3 cm). Then 40 brim rows at 5 rows per inch match that edge exactly. The finished ornament is 4 in (10.2 cm) wide and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall. Check each measurement as you go, and every hat you make will come out the same.
Happy crocheting!