This hanging holder keeps three spare toilet paper rolls in a slim column on the wall. Three round baskets hang one below the other on sturdy blue straps, and the whole set hangs from a wooden ring.
The baskets use a two-color starburst texture. Cream fans and blue clusters swap places every round, so the walls fill with cream petal bursts around small blue star centers. A denim blue base, rim and straps frame the pattern and keep the look calm and tidy.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket measures about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. The assembled holder hangs about 20.5 in (52.1 cm) from the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket.
Each basket starts with a flat hexagonal base worked in the round. A back-loop round turns the wall upward, six starburst rounds build the sides, and three blue rounds finish the rim. Six short straps then join the baskets to each other and to the ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Basket size: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) diameter x 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- Overall hanging length: about 20.5 in (52.1 cm), ring included
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 9 (3 baskets, 2 top straps, 4 connector straps)
- Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets
- Base size: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across after Round 5
- Wall height before rim: 3.25 in (8.3 cm) after Round 12
- Rim depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm), Rounds 13-15
Materials
Choose a worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape well, handles bathroom humidity and keeps the baskets firm. Acrylic works too, but the baskets will be a little softer.
- Color A, denim blue: 200 g, about 380 m
- Color B, cream: 150 g, about 285 m
These quantities include a margin of about 15 percent for swatching and weaving in ends.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- 1 wooden ring, 2 in (5.1 cm) diameter
- Tapestry needle
- 8 stitch markers
- Scissors and measuring tape
- Optional: three plastic canvas hexagons, cut 5 in (12.7 cm) across, for extra-firm bases
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Special stitch – Cluster (cl5): (Yarn over, insert hook in next st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, draw through 2 loops) 5 times, working across the next 5 sts. Then yarn over and draw through all 6 loops on the hook. One cl5 counts as 1 st.
Shell: 5 dc worked in the same st or cluster.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sts and 8 rounds of dc = 4 in (10.2 cm). In the starburst pattern, 2 rounds (one shell round plus one cluster round) = 1 in (2.5 cm). In sc, 14 sts and 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Make one complete basket before starting the others. It works as your gauge test.
Checkpoints:
- After Round 1: about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across
- After Round 3: about 3.25 in (8.3 cm) across
- After Round 5: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across, corner to corner
- After Round 12: wall height 3.25 in (8.3 cm), measured from the Round 6 ridge
- After Round 15: wall height 4 in (10.2 cm)
If your base is larger than 5.75 in (14.6 cm), go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is smaller than 5.25 in (13.3 cm), go up to a 5.5 mm hook. A standard roll is about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall, so test the fit before you continue.

Basket (Make 3)
Base
Work in joined rounds with the right side facing. The ch 3 at the start of each base round counts as 1 dc.
Round 1 (Color A): Make a magic ring. Ch 3, 11 dc in ring. Join with sl st to top of ch 3. Fasten off A. (12 sts)
Round 2 (Color B): Join B in any st. Ch 3, 2 dc in same st, dc in next st, 3 dc in next st, dc in next st; repeat from * 4 more times. Join. (24 sts: 6 sections of 4)
Round 3 (B): Ch 3, 3 dc in next st (corner center), dc in next 2 sts, dc in next st, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts; repeat from * 4 more times. Join. (36 sts: 6 sections of 6)
Always work each new 3-dc corner into the center dc of the old corner.
Round 4 (B): Ch 3, dc in next st, 3 dc in next st (corner center), dc in next 3 sts, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts; repeat from * 4 more times. Join. Fasten off B. (48 sts: 6 sections of 8)
Round 5 (Color A): Join A in the first st of any section. Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts, dc in next 3 sts, 3 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts; repeat from * 4 more times. Join. (60 sts: 6 sections of 10)
Check: 6 sections x 10 sts = 60. The base should lie flat as a hexagon 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across.
Wall
Round 6 (A): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Join to first sc. Fasten off A. (60 sc)
This round makes the blue ridge where the wall turns up. If you are using a plastic canvas insert, place it on the base now.
Round 7 (Color B, shell round): Join B in any st. Ch 1, sc in same st, sk 2 sts, shell in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; repeat from * 9 more times, leaving out the final sc. Join to first sc. Fasten off B. (60 sts: 10 shells of 5 dc + 10 sc)
Each repeat uses 6 sts, and 10 repeats x 6 = 60.
Round 8 (Color A, cluster round): Join A in the center (3rd) dc of any shell. Ch 1, sc in same st, ch 2, cl5 over next 5 sts (2 dc, sc, 2 dc), ch 2, sc in center dc of next shell; repeat from * 9 more times, leaving out the final sc. Join. Fasten off A. (60 sts: 10 sc + 10 cl5 + 40 ch)
The blue clusters pull the cream fans into petal bursts.
Round 9 (B, shell round): Join B in the top of any cl5. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 4 dc in same cl5, sk ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, sk ch-2 sp, shell in next cl5; repeat from * 8 more times, then sk ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, sk ch-2 sp. Join to top of ch 3. Fasten off B. (60 sts: 50 dc + 10 sc)
The shells now sit above the clusters. This offset creates the staggered starburst look.
Round 10 (A): Work as Round 8. (60 sts)
Round 11 (B): Work as Round 9. (60 sts)
Round 12 (A): Work as Round 8, but do not fasten off. (60 sts)
Checkpoint: the wall should be 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall above the Round 6 ridge, with 3 cream shell bands and 3 blue cluster bands.
Tip: crochet over the tails as you go so you have fewer ends to weave in later.
Make All Pieces
Baskets: Make 3, each with Rounds 1-15 (Rounds 13-15 are in the Border section below). Each basket uses about 55 g of Color A and 40 g of Color B.
Straps (Color A): Ch 5. Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (4 sc) For every row after that: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (4 sc per row)
- Top straps: Make 2, each 24 rows = 6 in (15.2 cm) long.
- Connector straps: Make 4, each 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) long.
Each strap is 4 sts wide, about 1.1 in (2.8 cm). All six straps together use about 20 g of Color A.
Layout grid (front view):
[ RING ]
/ \
[Top] [Top]
[ BASKET 1 ]
[Conn] [Conn]
[ BASKET 2 ]
[Conn] [Conn]
[ BASKET 3 ]
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with Color A and a tapestry needle. Sew each strap flat against the outside of the basket wall.
Marking: On each basket, count from the Round 14 join. Mark sts 1-4 and sts 31-34. These two 4-st groups sit directly opposite each other, with 26 sts between them on each side (4 + 26 + 4 + 26 = 60).
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each strap is 4 sts wide and covers exactly 4 marked rim sts. Sew 1 strap st to 1 rim st across the end of the strap, then whipstitch both long edges down through the overlap rows.
- Top straps to Basket 1: Lay the last 4 rows (1 in / 2.5 cm) of each top strap over the outside of Rounds 12-15 on one marked group. Sew around all four edges of the overlap.
- Top straps to ring: Pass the free end of each strap through the ring. Fold back 6 rows (1.5 in / 3.8 cm) and sew them to the strap. This leaves 14 rows, or 3.5 in (8.9 cm), visible between the rim and the ring.
- Connectors to Basket 1: Sew the top 4 rows of 2 connector straps to the lower outside wall of Basket 1, over Rounds 6-8, directly under the marked groups.
- Connectors to Basket 2: Sew the bottom 4 rows of the same connectors over the outside of Rounds 12-15 on the marked groups of Basket 2. This leaves 8 rows, or 2 in (5.1 cm), visible.
- Repeat steps 3 and 4 to join Basket 2 to Basket 3.
Tension: Pull every whipstitch snug, but do not pucker the wall. The straps carry the weight, so sew each overlap corner twice.
Size checkpoint: Each gap between baskets should be 2 in (5.1 cm), and the hanging length should be about 20.5 in (52.1 cm).
Border
The border is the blue rim on each basket, plus a slip stitch edge on the straps. Work the rim before joining.
Border gauge: 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) and 4 rounds = 1 in (2.5 cm). With 60 sts, the rim circumference is 17.1 in (43.4 cm).
Round 13 (A, conversion round): Continue from Round 12. Ch 1, sc in each sc, in each ch and in each cl5 around. Join. (60 sts = 60 worked 1 per existing st + 0 added)
Each half of the basket has 30 sts (5 repeats x 6 sts).
Round 14 (A): Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (60 sc; 30 per half)
Round 15 (A): Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. Join and fasten off. (60 rev sc; 30 per half)
Strap edge: With A and the right side facing, sl st along each long edge, 1 sl st per row end. Top straps get 24 sl st per long side. Connector straps get 16 sl st per long side. Leave the short ends plain for sewing.
Why the math works: The starburst rounds hold 60 sts, so the rim stays at 60 with no increases or decreases. At 3.5 sts per inch, 60 sts equal the base perimeter of 17.1 in (43.4 cm), so the wall rises straight up without flaring. The strap edge uses one sl st per row, so it adds no length.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends on the inside of each basket before blocking.
- Put one toilet paper roll in each basket. For a firmer shape, use a 5.5 in (14.0 cm) round container instead.
- Mist the baskets lightly with water until they are damp, not wet.
- Shape each rim into an even circle and press the Round 6 ridge into a crisp edge.
- Pin the straps flat to 1.1 in (2.8 cm) wide. Top straps should measure 6 in (15.2 cm) and connector straps 4 in (10.2 cm).
- Let everything dry completely, then remove the forms.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base has 60 sts and measures 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across
- Each wall has 3 cream shell bands and 3 blue cluster bands
- Every round from 6 to 15 counts 60 sts
- Each basket is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- Straps are 4 sts wide and sit directly opposite each other
- Gaps between baskets measure 2 in (5.1 cm)
- The ring folds are sewn securely on both top straps
- All ends are woven in on the inside
Troubleshooting
Base cups or ruffles: Your tension doesn’t suit the hook. Check where you placed the corners and recount each section.
Shells drift out of line: In shell rounds, always work the 5 dc into a cl5 top. In cluster rounds, always start in the center dc of a shell.
Wall flares outward: Your clusters are too loose. Go down 0.5 mm for Rounds 7-15 only.
Roll will not fit: The base is too small. Remake it with a hook 0.5 mm larger.
Baskets tilt when hanging: The straps are not exactly opposite each other. Recheck the 26-st spacing on both sides.
Straps stretch: Use cotton, sew the overlaps twice and don’t overload the baskets.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry, reshaping each basket over a roll. Don’t tumble dry, because it can soften the walls.

Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. A 60-st base 5.5 in (14.0 cm) across carries 60 sts through every wall and rim round, which gives a basket 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. Straps 4 sts wide set 2 in (5.1 cm) gaps, and the finished holder hangs about 20.5 in (52.1 cm) long. Check each stage and your three baskets will line up evenly.
Happy crocheting!