This set is three small Christmas stockings that each hold a spare toilet roll. They hang side by side from a wooden bar in the bathroom. Each stocking is worked in solid cranberry-red single crochet, with a cream cuff covered in three rows of bobbles. The roll sits inside the leg and sticks up a little above the cuff, so a fresh one is always within reach.
The style is cozy farmhouse Christmas: dense, textured fabric, two classic colors and no fussy details. The pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.
Each finished stocking measures about 6.5 in (16.5 cm) from heel to toe, 8.25 in (21.0 cm) tall and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) deep. The strap loop adds about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the cuff. The leg fits standard rolls up to about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across.
Each stocking is one seamless 3D piece. You start with an oval sole and work straight walls up from it. Then you pinch off the toe by skipping 12 stitches and keep working the leg in the round. The cuff is worked in turned rounds so the bobbles pop to the outside. A separate strip, folded into a hanging loop, is sewn inside the back of the cuff.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size (each stocking): 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide x 8.25 in (21.0 cm) tall x 4.5 in (11.4 cm) deep
- Skill level: Easy to intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5)
- Hook: 6.0 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 3 stockings + 3 straps (6 pieces, not joined to each other)
- Layout: 3 stockings hung in a row on one bar, toes pointing the same way
- Sole size: 6.5 x 4.5 in (16.5 x 11.4 cm)
- Leg circumference before cuff: 14 in (35.6 cm); 7 in (17.8 cm) flat
- Height before cuff: about 6 in (15.2 cm)
- Cuff depth: 2.25 in (5.7 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth bulky yarn in acrylic, cotton blend or wool blend. A firm, round yarn makes the bobbles look plump and helps the stocking hold its shape. Avoid fuzzy or loosely plied yarns, which hide the bobbles.
- Cranberry red: 200 g (about 200 m) for all 3 stockings and straps
- Cream: 100 g (about 100 m) for all 3 cuffs
These amounts include a margin of about 10 percent. Each stocking uses about 60 g (60 m) of red and 30 g (30 m) of cream.
Tools:
- 6.0 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- One toilet roll to test the fit
- A wooden dowel or towel bar at least 24 in (61.0 cm) long (for display; not crocheted)
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- BLO – back loop only
- Rnd – round
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitch – Bobble: (Yarn over, insert hook in st, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through 2 loops) 5 times in the same st. Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops on the hook. The bobble pops out on the side facing away from you.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 sc x 13 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc.
Make one full stocking before starting the others. The sole is your best gauge test.
- After Rnd 7 (sole): 6.5 x 4.5 in (16.5 x 11.4 cm), with an outer edge of 18 in (45.7 cm).
- After Rnd 13 (foot walls): walls about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) high.
- After Rnd 26 (leg): circumference 14 in (35.6 cm), 7 in (17.8 cm) flat, about 6 in (15.2 cm) tall from the table.
- After Rnd 33 (cuff): total height 8.25 in (21.0 cm); cuff 8 in (20.3 cm) across when flat.
If the sole is too big, switch to a 5.5 mm hook. If it is too small, or a roll will not fit in the leg, switch to a 6.5 mm hook. Do not change stitch counts, because the toe and cuff math depend on them.
Stocking Pattern (Make 3)
Work in joined rounds. Unless noted, start each round with ch 1 (does not count as a st), work the first sc in the same st as the join, and end with sl st to the first sc. Do not turn until the cuff.
Sole
With red, ch 9.
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 6 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working along the other side of the chain, sc in next 6 ch, 2 sc in same ch as first sc; join. (18 sts)
You now have 6 sts along each straight side and 3 sts at each end. The 3-sc end (End B) will become the toe.
Rnd 2: 2 sc in first st, sc in next 6, 2 sc in each of next 3, sc in next 6, 2 sc in each of last 2; join. (24 sts)
Rnd 3: [Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] once, sc in next 6, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 3 times, sc in next 6, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 2 times; join. (30 sts)
Rnd 4: [Sc in next 2, 2 sc in next] once, sc in next 6, [sc in next 2, 2 sc in next] 3 times, sc in next 6, [sc in next 2, 2 sc in next] 2 times; join. (36 sts)
Rnd 5: Repeat Rnd 4, but work sc in next 3 inside each bracket. (42 sts)
Rnd 6: Repeat Rnd 4, but work sc in next 4 inside each bracket. (48 sts)
Rnd 7: Repeat Rnd 4, but work sc in next 5 inside each bracket. (54 sts)
Each end now has 21 sts and each straight side has 6 sts: 21 + 6 + 21 + 6 = 54. Check the sole size now.
Foot Walls
Rnd 8: Sc in BLO of each st around; join. (54 sts) This makes a crisp ridge where the sole turns upward.
Rnds 9–13: Sc in each st around; join. (54 sts each)
Before Rnd 14, count from the first st of the round and mark sts 18 and 29. Sts 18–29 are the 12 center sts of the toe end.
Toe Pinch and Leg
Rnd 14: Sc in first 17 sts, skip the 12 marked toe sts (18–29), sc in sts 30–54; join. (42 sts: 17 + 25)
Pull the yarn snug as you jump the gap, so st 17 sits right beside st 30. The skipped sts fold in half over the toe: st 18 lies against st 29, and st 23 lies against st 24. You will sew this seam closed later.
Rnds 15–26: Sc in each st around; join. (42 sts each)
Fasten off red after Rnd 26, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail for the toe seam. Check the leg size and test the fit with a roll.
Bobble Cuff
From Rnd 28 on, turn at the start of each round. Bobble rounds are worked with the WS facing so the bobbles pop out on the RS.
Rnd 27 (RS): Join cream in any st at the back of the leg. Ch 1, [sc in next 6, 2 sc in next] 6 times; join. (48 sts = 42 worked 1 per st + 6 increases)
Rnd 28 (WS): Ch 1, turn. [Bobble in next st, sc in next st] 24 times; join. (48 sts: 24 bobbles + 24 sc)
Rnd 29 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st around, including the top of each bobble; join. (48 sts)
Rnd 30 (WS): Ch 1, turn. [Sc in next st, bobble in next st] 24 times; join. (48 sts: 24 bobbles + 24 sc) These bobbles sit above the sc of Rnd 28, so the rows are staggered.
Rnd 31 (RS): Repeat Rnd 29. (48 sts)
Rnd 32 (WS): Repeat Rnd 28. (48 sts)
Rnd 33 (RS): Repeat Rnd 29. (48 sts) Fasten off and weave in.
Close the Toe
With the stocking right side out, use the red tail and a tapestry needle to whipstitch the folded toe sts together in pairs: 18 to 29, 19 to 28, 20 to 27, 21 to 26, 22 to 25 and 23 to 24. That makes 6 pairs and a seam about 2 in (5.1 cm) long on top of the toe. Fasten off and weave in.
Strap (Make 3)
With red, ch 4.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 2 ch. (3 sts)
Rows 2–30: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. (3 sts each)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strap measures about 1 x 9 in (2.5 x 22.9 cm).
Make All Pieces
- Red: 3 stockings (Rnds 1–26 plus toe seam) and 3 straps
- Cream: 3 cuffs (Rnds 27–33)
Hanging layout (front view, toes pointing left):
=========== bar, at least 24 in (61.0 cm) ===========
|strap| |strap| |strap|
[Stocking 1] [Stocking 2] [Stocking 3]
6.5 in 1 in 6.5 in 1 in 6.5 in
Total hanging width: 3 x 6.5 in + 2 x 1 in = 21.5 in (54.6 cm).
Attaching Straps and Hanging
The stockings are not sewn to each other. Each one hangs from its own strap loop.
- Flatten a stocking with the toe pointing left. Find the center back of the cuff, which will face the wall.
- Lay 1 in (2.5 cm) of one strap end inside the cuff at center back, with the strap rising straight up.
- Lay the other strap end directly on top of the first, also overlapping 1 in (2.5 cm). Check that the strap is not twisted.
- Whipstitch through all layers. Along the top and bottom of the overlap, match the 3 strap sts to 3 cuff columns; along each side, match the 3 strap rows. Sew through the inside layer of the cuff sts only, so no stitching shows on the front.
Keep the tension firm but not tight. If the cuff puckers at the back, loosen your stitches. The free 7 in (17.8 cm) of strap forms a loop about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) high.
Size checkpoint: When hung, the top of each loop should sit about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) above the cuff. All three stockings should hang at the same height, within 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of each other. Slide the loops onto the bar from one end.
Bobble Cuff Border
On this piece, the cuff is the border. It finishes the top edge and gives the stocking its look.
Border gauge: 12 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm) around. The 7 cuff rounds measure 2.25 in (5.7 cm) deep, because the bobble rounds are slightly taller than plain sc.
Counts per side (cuff flattened into front and back halves):
- Rnd 27: 21 leg sts per side become 24 cuff sts per side (21 + 3 increases). Total 48.
- Rnds 28, 30, 32: 24 sts per side = 12 bobbles + 12 sc. Total 24 bobbles per round.
- Rnds 29, 31, 33: 24 sc per side. Total 48.
Why the math works: 42 divides evenly into 6 repeats of 7 sts, so the 6 increases are evenly spaced and the cuff flares gently. That takes it from 14 in (35.6 cm) to 16 in (40.6 cm) around. The bobbles thicken the fabric, and the extra width keeps the cuff from pulling in. Because 48 is even, the bobble-and-sc repeat finishes each round with no partial repeat. Rnds 28 and 30 start on different stitches, so the bobble columns are offset neatly.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends on the inside.
- Put a toilet roll in the leg and stuff the toe with a small rolled washcloth.
- Shape the sole flat, round the heel and pinch the toe into a soft point.
- Hold a steam iron 1 in (2.5 cm) above the red fabric and steam lightly. Do not press.
- Steam the cuff from above only. Never flatten the bobbles.
- Let each stocking dry fully on its stuffing, about 2 hours.
- Remove the washcloth and check that all three stockings match: 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide and 8.25 in (21.0 cm) tall.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Sole is 6.5 x 4.5 in (16.5 x 11.4 cm) and lies flat.
- The Rnd 8 BLO ridge shows all the way around.
- Toe seam is closed with no gaps (6 pairs).
- Leg has 42 sts and holds a roll snugly.
- Cuff has 48 sts and 3 rows of 24 bobbles, all popping outward.
- Bobble rows are staggered.
- Straps are untwisted and centered, with the ends hidden inside.
- All three stockings hang level, 1 in (2.5 cm) apart.
Troubleshooting
Sole cups or ruffles: Cupping means your tension is too tight; ruffling means it is too loose. Recount the increases in each round and check your gauge.
Bobbles pop inside the stocking: You worked a bobble round with the RS facing. Always work bobble rounds with the WS facing.
Gap at the toe pinch: Pull the yarn snug on Rnd 14. Close any remaining gap with the red tail when you sew the toe seam.
Roll does not fit: Remake the stocking with a 6.5 mm hook instead of adding stitches.
Stocking tips forward: The strap is sewn too low or off-center. Re-sew it at center back, 1 in (2.5 cm) deep.
Cuff flips outward: Steam it upright over a roll and let it dry in place.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry, reshaping it over a roll. Avoid the dryer, which can flatten the bobbles.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is short. A 54-st sole measuring 6.5 x 4.5 in (16.5 x 11.4 cm) rises into straight walls. Skipping 12 toe sts leaves a 42-st leg of 14 in (35.6 cm), which fits a standard roll. A 48-st bobble cuff of 16 in (40.6 cm) brings each stocking to 8.25 in (21.0 cm) tall. Hung 1 in (2.5 cm) apart, the three stockings fill 21.5 in (54.6 cm) of bar. If the sole and leg checkpoints are right, everything else follows.
Happy crocheting!