This hanging bag holder keeps plastic grocery bags tidy and easy to reach. The body is an airy cream mesh tube with a firm band at the top and a narrow ribbed cuff at the bottom. You push bags in at the top and pull them out one at a time through the cuff.
Four flower motifs are sewn onto the body, two on the front and two on the back. Each flower has a mustard-gold center, eight soft cream petals and eight pointed sage-green leaves. The colors give it a fresh farmhouse look that suits a kitchen or pantry.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat and 20 in (50.8 cm) tall, not counting the hanging strap. Each flower is 5 in (12.7 cm) across from point to point.
You start the body at the bottom cuff and work it in the round up through the mesh. The top band and the hanging strap act as the border. Next you make the four flowers separately, then sew them onto the mesh.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat x 20 in (50.8 cm) tall; 12 in (30.5 cm) around
- Hanging loop: strap 10 in (25.4 cm) long, rising about 4 in (10.2 cm) above the top
- Skill level: Easy intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 5 (1 body + 4 flower motifs)
- Layout: 2 flowers on the front, 2 on the back, staggered
- Piece size: each flower is 5 in (12.7 cm) across
- Size before border: 6 in x 19 in (15.2 cm x 48.3 cm)
- Border depth: 1 in (2.5 cm) top band, plus the strap
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps its shape when the holder is full and goes through the wash without trouble. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarn, because the mesh will sag.
- Cream: 150 g / 264 m (body, top band, strap and petals)
- Sage green: 30 g / 53 m (leaves)
- Mustard gold: 15 g / 26 m (flower centers)
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- 4 stitch markers
- Rustproof pins
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Blocking mat or towel and a spray bottle
All quantities include a margin of about 15% for swatching and weaving in ends.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- fpdc – front post double crochet
- bpdc – back post double crochet
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
Special stitch – Petal shell: (hdc, dc, tr, ch 1, tr, dc, hdc) all in the same stitch. The ch-1 is the tip of the petal.
Special stitch – Leaf: (sc, hdc, 2 dc, tr, ch 3, sl st in 3rd ch from hook, tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc) all in the same space. The ch-3 picot makes the pointed tip.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Solid gauge: 16 sc and 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) when worked in the round.
Mesh gauge: 12 ch-5 loops make one round of 12 in (30.5 cm). 2 mesh rnds = 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
Make one flower first and check it. It is quick, and it tells you whether your tension works for this yarn.
Checkpoints:
- Flower after Rnd 2: center is 2 in (5.1 cm) across.
- Flower after Rnd 3: 3.75 in (9.5 cm) across the petal tips.
- Finished flower: 5 in (12.7 cm) from point to point.
- Body after Rnd 5 (cuff): 6 in (15.2 cm) around when relaxed, 2 in (5.1 cm) tall.
- Body after Rnd 15: 12 in (30.5 cm) around, 7 in (17.8 cm) tall.
- Body before the top band: 19 in (48.3 cm) tall.
If your pieces are too big: go down half a hook size, or crochet a little tighter on your chains.
If your pieces are too small: go up half a hook size. For the mesh, check that you are not pulling the ch-5 loops tight. Each loop should lie flat about 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.
Flower Motif (Make 4)
Rnd 1–2: Center (Mustard)
Rnd 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc in ring. Pull the ring closed and sl st in top of the ch-3 to join. (12 dc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around. Sl st in top of the ch-3 to join. (24 dc)
Fasten off. The center should be flat and 2 in (5.1 cm) across.
Rnd 3: Petals (Cream)
Rnd 3: Join cream with a sl st in any st. Ch 1, sc in same st, petal shell in next st, sc in next st. Sc in next st, petal shell in next st, sc in next st. Repeat from * 6 more times. Sl st in first sc to join.
Count: 8 petals; 16 sc + 48 petal sts + 8 ch-1 tips.
Every petal takes 3 stitches from Rnd 2 (8 x 3 = 24). Between each pair of petals there are 2 sc, so the petals sit close together. Fasten off.
Rnd 4: Leaf Frame (Green)
Rnd 4: Join green with a sl st in the ch-1 tip of any petal. Ch 1, sc in same tip, ch 7. Sc in next petal tip, ch 7. Repeat from * 6 more times. Sl st in first sc to join.
Count: 8 sc + 8 ch-7 spaces.
Keep every ch-7 behind the petals, so the petals stay on top when you look at the right side.
Rnd 5: Leaves (Green)
Rnd 5: Sl st into the next ch-7 sp. Work a leaf in that sp, then sl st in next sc. Leaf in next ch-7 sp, sl st in next sc. Repeat from * 6 more times. Sl st in the first sl st to join.
Count: 8 leaves (10 sts + 1 picot each = 80 sts + 8 picots), plus 8 sl sts.
Each leaf grows out of the gap between two petals and ends in a pointed tip. The sc at each petal tip outlines the cream petals in green. Fasten off and leave a 24 in (61.0 cm) green tail for sewing.
Body
Rnds 1–5: Bottom Cuff (Cream)
Rnd 1: Ch 24 and join with a sl st to the first ch without twisting the chain. Ch 1, sc in each ch around. Sl st in first sc to join. (24 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to join. (24 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 2 (does not count as a stitch). Fpdc around next st, bpdc around next st. Repeat from * around. Sl st in first fpdc to join. (24 sts: 12 fpdc + 12 bpdc)
Rnds 4–5: Ch 2. Work fpdc around each fpdc and bpdc around each bpdc. Sl st to join. (24 sts)
Checkpoint: the cuff is 2 in (5.1 cm) tall and 6 in (15.2 cm) around when relaxed. The ribbing stretches so a bag can pass through, then springs back so the next bag stays put.
Rnd 6: Mesh Conversion
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in first st. Ch 5, skip next st, sc in next st. Repeat from * 10 more times. Ch 2, skip last st, dc in first sc. The ch 2 and dc count as the 12th loop and leave your hook at the center of that loop.
Count: 12 sc (1 in every other st of 24) + 12 ch-5 loops.
The tube flares out here from 6 in (15.2 cm) to 12 in (30.5 cm) around, which gives the mesh its gathered bottom.
Rnds 7–39: Diamond Mesh
Rnds 7–38: Ch 1, sc in the loop formed by the dc. Ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop. Repeat from * 10 more times. Ch 2, dc in first sc. (12 sc + 12 loops)
Rnd 39 (last mesh round): Ch 1, sc in the loop formed by the dc. Ch 5, sc in next loop. Repeat from * 10 more times. Ch 5, sl st in first sc. (12 sc + 12 full ch-5 loops)
Rnds 6–39 make 34 mesh rounds, and 34 x 0.5 in = 17 in (43.2 cm).
Checkpoint: cuff 2 in + mesh 17 in = 19 in (48.3 cm). Lay the tube flat. It should be 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 19 in (48.3 cm) tall.
Make All Pieces
- Body: 1 (cream)
- Flowers: 4 (mustard center, cream petals, green leaves)
Layout, with distances measured from the bottom of the top band down to the center of each flower:
FRONT BACK
[ top band ] [ top band ]
| |
Flower A 3.5 in mesh only
(8.9 cm) |
| Flower C 6.5 in
Flower B 9.5 in (16.5 cm)
(24.1 cm) |
| Flower D 12.5 in
mesh only (31.8 cm)
[ cuff ] [ cuff ]
The back flowers sit between the front ones. Seen from the side, the flowers look staggered all around the tube.
Joining (Sewing the Flowers On)
You will work the top band in the next section. Sew the flowers on afterward, once all 4 rnds of the band are finished. For now, decide where they will go.
Method: Sew each flower on with whipstitch, using its green tail and a tapestry needle.
- Lay the body flat with the beginning-of-round seam along one side fold. Slip a folded towel inside so you only sew through one layer.
- Pin Flower A with its center 3.5 in (8.9 cm) below the top band. Center it side to side. The 5 in (12.7 cm) flower leaves 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of mesh on each side.
- Pin Flower B with its center 9.5 in (24.1 cm) below the band. Flower A ends 6 in (15.2 cm) below the band and Flower B starts 7 in (17.8 cm) below it, so there is 1 in (2.5 cm) of mesh between them.
- Turn the body over. Pin Flower C at 6.5 in (16.5 cm) and Flower D at 12.5 in (31.8 cm). Flower D ends 15 in (38.1 cm) below the band, which leaves 2 in (5.1 cm) of mesh above the cuff.
Stitch logic: Sew one stitch for each stitch along the outside of Rnd 5: 80 leaf stitches, plus one stitch at each picot tip. Each time you pass a mesh strand, catch it in the stitch. Where a leaf sits over an open loop, stitch around the nearest chain instead. Add 4–5 small stitches through the Rnd 2 center into the mesh behind it so the middle doesn’t pull away.
Tension: Make the whipstitches snug but not tight. If you pull them tight, the mesh puckers and the width shrinks.
Size checkpoint: When all four flowers are on, the body should still lie 6 in (15.2 cm) wide. If it measures less, loosen or redo the last stitches you sewed.
Border: Top Band and Hanging Strap
Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), 4 rnds = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Rnd 40 (conversion): Ch 1, sc in same sc as the join, 3 sc in next ch-5 loop. Sc in next sc, 3 sc in next loop. Repeat from * around. Sl st to join.
Count: 12 sc (1 in each existing sc) + 36 sc (3 in each of 12 loops) = 48 sc. Laid flat, that is 24 sts per side.
Rnds 41–43: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to join. (48 sc; 24 per side)
Why the math works: 12 in around x 4 sc per in = 48 sc. Each mesh repeat (1 sc + 1 loop) becomes exactly 4 sc. The band lies flat at 12 in (30.5 cm) around, so it doesn’t ruffle or pull in. With 24 sts per side, each flat side is exactly 6 in (15.2 cm). Do not fasten off.
Hanging strap:
- Flatten the body with st 1 (the first st of the round) on one side fold. Count around and place markers:
- Strap base 1: sts 47, 48, 1, 2 and 3 (5 sts centered on that fold)
- Strap base 2: sts 23–27 (5 sts on the opposite fold)
- Row 1: Join cream in st 47. Ch 1, sc in sts 47, 48, 1, 2 and 3. (5 sc)
- Rows 2–40: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sc) At 4 rows per in, 40 rows = 10 in (25.4 cm). The strap is 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide.
- Bring the strap over the top without twisting it. Sl st Row 40 to sts 23–27, working through both layers. (5 sl sts)
- Strap edging: Ch 1. Sc evenly down one long edge of the strap, 1 sc per row end (40 sc). Sl st across the top band to the other strap base. Sc up the second long edge (40 sc). Sl st to join and fasten off.
Now sew the flowers on, following the Joining section.
Final counts: top band 24 sts per side; strap 5 sts wide x 40 rows; cuff 12 sts per side.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends, running each tail through solid stitches rather than the mesh.
- Spray the whole holder until it is damp, but not dripping.
- Slide a rolled towel inside the tube to fill it to 12 in (30.5 cm) around.
- Lay it flat and smooth it to 6 in x 20 in (15.2 cm x 50.8 cm).
- Pin out each leaf point and press the petals flat with your fingers.
- Gently pull the mesh loops open so the diamonds look even.
- Leave the ribbed cuff alone, so it stays springy.
- Let it dry completely, then remove the pins and the towel.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Cuff is 24 sts and stretches open, then springs back
- Every mesh round has 12 loops, and there are 34 mesh rounds
- Top band is 48 sc, or 24 per side
- Body is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 20 in (50.8 cm) tall
- Each flower has 8 petals and 8 pointed leaves and measures 5 in (12.7 cm)
- Flowers sit at the marked heights, and the front and back are staggered
- Strap is 10 in (25.4 cm) long and not twisted
- All ends are woven in securely
Troubleshooting
Mesh slants or spirals: Check that each round starts in the loop formed by the dc. If a loop is skipped, you lose a loop and the diamonds drift sideways.
Top band ruffles: You have put more than 3 sc in some loops. Count again until you have 48.
Top band pulls in: Go up one hook size for Rnds 40–43 only.
Petals cup instead of lying flat: The Rnd 2 center is too small. Check that you have 24 dc.
Leaves curl forward: The ch-7 spaces are too short. Chain loosely, or change to ch 8. If you do, the Rnd 5 counts stay the same.
Bags slip out of the bottom: The cuff is too loose. Rework Rnds 3–5 with a hook one size smaller.
Flowers pucker the mesh: Your whipstitches are too tight. Unpick them and sew again with more slack.
Care
Hand wash or machine wash on a gentle cycle in cool water. Reshape the holder while damp and lay it flat to dry.
Final Notes
Here is the measurement chain from start to finish. The 24-st cuff is 2 in (5.1 cm) tall. The 12-loop mesh adds 17 in (43.2 cm), so the body is 19 in (48.3 cm) before the border. The 48-st top band adds 1 in (2.5 cm), for a finished height of 20 in (50.8 cm). Flat, the holder is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide, so each 5 in (12.7 cm) flower has 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of mesh on each side. If each checkpoint matches, the finished holder will match too.
Happy crocheting!