This hanging toilet paper holder keeps three spare rolls tidy and in reach without using any floor or counter space. Three soft rectangular baskets hang one below the other from a natural wooden ring, linked by short straps at their back corners.
The design uses one heathered denim-blue yarn. The texture is a raised diagonal basketweave made from blocks of front-post and back-post double crochet that step over by one stitch each round. Each basket sits on a flat single-crochet base and finishes with a firm two-round rim.
The pattern is written in US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide and 20.75 in (52.7 cm) tall from the top of the ring to the bottom of the lowest basket.
Construction is simple. You make three identical baskets in the round from a rectangular base, then four connecting straps, two hanging straps, and a single-crochet wrap on the ring. You sew the straps on, and then add the rim to every basket so the strap ends are tucked in under a clean edge.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide x 20.75 in (52.7 cm) tall, including the ring
- Skill level: Intermediate (you need to be comfortable with post stitches)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton or cotton blend
- Hooks: 5.0 mm (H-8) for the main work; 4.5 mm (G-7) for the rim
- Number of pieces: 3 baskets, 6 straps, 1 ring wrap
- Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets
- Basket size: base 6.25 in x 4.5 in (15.9 cm x 11.4 cm); height 4.25 in (10.8 cm)
- Basket height before rim: 3.75 in (9.5 cm)
- Rim depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm)
Materials
Yarn: Pick a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend at about 80 m per 50 g. Cotton holds its shape well in a bathroom and shows off post-stitch texture. Avoid fuzzy acrylics, because they blur the diagonal pattern.
- Denim Blue: 300 g (about 480 m)
That quantity includes a margin of about 25% for gauge differences and swatching. The holder itself uses about 225 g.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- 4.5 mm (G-7) crochet hook
- 1 wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Sewing pins or clips
- Scissors and tape measure
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd – round
- FPdc – front post double crochet: yarn over, insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, and complete a dc.
- BPdc – back post double crochet: yarn over, insert the hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch below, and complete a dc.
Diagonal weave block: a group of 4 FPdc followed by 4 BPdc (8 sts). On each round, the blocks start one stitch later. This makes the raised columns step to the left and gives the diagonal woven look.
Gauge and Checkpoints
- Base gauge (5.0 mm hook): 14 sc x 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Wall gauge (5.0 mm hook): 15 sts x 8 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in the diagonal weave
- Rim gauge (4.5 mm hook): 15 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm)
Make one complete basket before anything else. That basket is your gauge swatch.
Checkpoints:
- After base Row 18, the rectangle measures 6.25 in x 4.5 in (15.9 cm x 11.4 cm).
- After Rnd 3, the walls stand up from the folded edge and the basket’s outside measurement is about 21.5 in (54.6 cm).
- After Rnd 9, the wall measures 3.75 in (9.5 cm) from the base fold.
- After the rim, the wall is 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall and a toilet roll drops in easily.
If your base is too big, go down half a hook size. If it’s too small, go up half a size. If the walls flare out, your post stitches are too loose, so pull each yarn-over snug. If the walls lean in, relax your tension or go up half a size for the walls only.
Basket (Make 3)
Use the 5.0 mm hook.
Base
Row 1: Ch 23, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (22 sc)
Rows 2–18: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (22 sc)
The base now measures 6.25 in x 4.5 in (15.9 cm x 11.4 cm). Row 18 will be the back edge.
Walls
Rnd 1 (base edging): Ch 1, turn. Sc in each of the 22 sts of Row 18 (back). Sc 18 sts down the row ends, 1 per row (side). Sc 22 sts in the unused loops of the foundation chain (front). Sc 18 sts up the row ends (side). Sl st to the first sc. (80 sc: 22 + 18 + 22 + 18)
Put a marker in the first sc. That stitch is the back corner, and every round starts and joins there.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, sl st to first sc. (80 sc)
The unused front loops make a crisp fold, and the walls start to rise.
Rnd 3: Ch 2 (does not count as a st), dc in each st around, sl st to first dc. (80 dc)
Rnd 4: Ch 2 (does not count here or in later rnds). *FPdc in next 4 sts, BPdc in next 4 sts; rep from * 10 times total. Sl st to first st. (80 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 2, BPdc in next st, *FPdc in next 4 sts, BPdc in next 4 sts; rep from * 9 times, FPdc in next 4 sts, BPdc in next 3 sts. Sl st to first st. (80 sts: 1 + 72 + 4 + 3)
Rnd 6: Ch 2, BPdc in next 2 sts, *FPdc in next 4 sts, BPdc in next 4 sts; rep from * 9 times, FPdc in next 4 sts, BPdc in next 2 sts. Sl st to first st. (80 sts: 2 + 72 + 4 + 2)
Rnd 7: Ch 2, BPdc in next 3 sts, *FPdc in next 4 sts, BPdc in next 4 sts; rep from * 9 times, FPdc in next 4 sts, BPdc in next st. Sl st to first st. (80 sts: 3 + 72 + 4 + 1)
Rnd 8: Ch 2, BPdc in next 4 sts, *FPdc in next 4 sts, BPdc in next 4 sts; rep from * 9 times, FPdc in next 4 sts. Sl st to first st. (80 sts: 4 + 72 + 4)
Rnd 9: Ch 2, FPdc in next st, BPdc in next 4 sts, *FPdc in next 4 sts, BPdc in next 4 sts; rep from * 9 times, FPdc in next 3 sts. Sl st to first st. (80 sts: 1 + 4 + 72 + 3)
Check that the wall is 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall. Don’t fasten off. Put the live loop on a locking marker so you can pick it up later for the rim.
Straps and Ring Wrap
Use the 5.0 mm hook. Every strap is 5 sts wide, about 1.4 in (3.6 cm).
Connecting Strap (make 4):
Row 1: Ch 6, sc in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (5 sc)
Rows 2–18: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5 sc)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strap is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) long.
Hanging Strap (make 2):
Work the same as the Connecting Strap, but continue through Row 28. (5 sc)
Fasten off and leave a 14 in (35.6 cm) tail. The strap is 7 in (17.8 cm) long.
Ring Wrap: Make a slip knot on the hook. Working over the wooden ring, sc 24 times so the stitches cover about half of the ring. Fasten off and weave the ends in along the covered section. Turn the ring so the wrapped half points down.
Make All Pieces
All pieces are Denim Blue:
- Baskets: 3
- Connecting straps: 4
- Hanging straps: 2
- Ring wrap: 1
Layout (front view, top to bottom):
[ RING ]
/ \
[H] [H]
[ ---- BASKET A ---- ]
[C] [C]
[ ---- BASKET B ---- ]
[C] [C]
[ ---- BASKET C ---- ]
H = hanging strap, C = connecting strap. All straps sit on the two back corners.
Joining
Sew the straps on with a whipstitch, using the strap tails. Work one strap stitch to one wall stitch along the strap edges, and one strap row to one wall stitch across the strap ends. Center each strap on a back corner so that about 2.5 sts sit on the back wall and 2.5 sts sit on the side wall.
- Connecting straps, upper end: Lay Basket A on its front. Pin a connecting strap to the outside of each back corner, with 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of strap covering the bottom of the wall from the base fold up. Sew around all 4 edges of the overlap.
- Connecting straps, lower end: Put each strap end inside Basket B against the matching back corner. The strap should overlap 1.5 in (3.8 cm) down from the top of Rnd 9. Sew around the overlap, but keep your stitches below the top loops of Rnd 9 so they’re still free for the rim.
- Join Basket B to Basket C the same way.
- Hanging straps: Sew one end of each hanging strap inside a back corner of Basket A with a 1.5 in (3.8 cm) overlap, the same way as Step 2.
- Angle the two hanging straps in toward each other and loop each one over the wrapped half of the ring, side by side. Fold 1.25 in (3.2 cm) of strap back down onto itself and sew it in place. That leaves 3.5 in (8.9 cm) of strap between the top of Rnd 9 and the bottom of the ring.
Tension: Make the whipstitch snug but not tight. If you pull too hard, the post-stitch wall will pucker. Don’t let any sewing show through on the front of the wall.
Size checkpoint: Between baskets, the gap from the top of Rnd 9 to the base of the next basket up should be 1.5 in (3.8 cm). Change the overlap before you add the rim if the gap is off.
Border (Basket Rim)
Change to the 4.5 mm hook. Work the rim on each basket after joining, so the rim stitches sit above the sewn strap ends.
Border gauge: 15 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), matching the wall gauge.
Put the live loop from Rnd 9 back on the hook. You’re at the back corner marker.
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (80 sc: back 22, side 18, front 22, side 18)
At each back corner, push the strap aside and work only into the wall stitches.
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Finish with an invisible join. (80 sc: back 22, side 18, front 22, side 18)
Rnd 11 rolls slightly outward, which gives the rim its firm, rounded look. The rim adds 0.5 in (1.3 cm). The basket is now 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall, and the gap between baskets closes to 1 in (2.5 cm).
Why the math works: Every round from Rnd 1 to Rnd 11 has exactly 80 sts, worked one into each stitch below. It always starts at the same back corner, so the side counts of 22, 18, 22, and 18 never move. The base edge measures 21.5 in (54.6 cm) around. At 15 sts per 4 in (10.2 cm), 80 sts measure 21.3 in (54.1 cm), so the walls and rim sit straight above the base without flaring. With the 4.5 mm hook, the sc rim matches that gauge and doesn’t ruffle.
Final Blocking
- Weave in every end along the inside of a basket wall or inside a strap.
- Lightly mist each basket with water until it’s damp but not soaked.
- Push a toilet roll, or a folded towel of similar size, into each basket to square it up.
- Pinch the base fold and the four vertical corners to sharpen them.
- Lay the holder flat with the straps straight and 1 in (2.5 cm) gaps between baskets.
- Let it dry completely, then take out the rolls.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Each base is 6.25 in x 4.5 in (15.9 cm x 11.4 cm).
- Every round has 80 sts.
- The diagonals step the same direction on all three baskets.
- Each wall is 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall with the rim.
- All rims count 22/18/22/18.
- The straps are centered on the back corners and don’t show from the front.
- The gaps between baskets are 1 in (2.5 cm).
- The total height is 20.75 in (52.7 cm).
- The ring hangs straight, with the wrap at the bottom.
Troubleshooting
- No diagonal shows up: You started the blocks in the same place every round. Check the opening BPdc count for Rnds 5–9.
- Walls flare out: Your post stitches are loose. Rework with a tighter yarn-over, or use a 4.5 mm hook for the walls.
- Base edge looks wavy: Your row-end stitches were worked too loosely. Keep the count at 18 per side and use the 4.5 mm hook for Rnd 1.
- Holder tilts: The straps differ in length or overlap. Measure and resew so both sides match.
- Rim ruffles: You used the wrong hook or added stitches. Recount to 80.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the water in a towel, and lay flat to dry, reshaping the baskets around rolls. Don’t hang it while wet, because the weight of the water can stretch the straps.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is easy to follow. A 6.25 in x 4.5 in (15.9 cm x 11.4 cm) base gives 80 edge stitches. Those 80 stitches build a 3.75 in (9.5 cm) wall and a 0.5 in (1.3 cm) rim, so each basket is 4.25 in (10.8 cm) tall. Three baskets, two 1 in (2.5 cm) gaps, 3 in (7.6 cm) of hanging strap showing above the top rim, and a 3 in (7.6 cm) ring add up to 20.75 in (52.7 cm). If you check each step, the whole holder hangs square and holds every roll snugly.
Happy crocheting!