Three dark green crocheted cat-shaped pieces with openwork patterns connected by a chain and natural wooden ring on cream surface.

Emerald Leaf Three-Tier Toilet Paper Holder Crochet Pattern

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This hanging holder stores three spare toilet rolls in a narrow strip of wall. It has three lacy cup baskets stacked on a sturdy back strap that hangs from a wooden ring. Each basket has a band of fan-shaped leaves with raised center veins, and a scalloped rim curves over every leaf.

The sample uses one color only, a deep emerald green cotton. One color keeps the leaf texture as the main feature and suits a bathroom with white tile, wood, and plants. The style is a mix of vintage doily lace and modern boho.

The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide at the basket rims and hangs 18.6 in (47.2 cm) from the top of the strap loop to the tips of the fishtail, not counting the ring. Each basket holds a standard roll about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across.

You’ll work each basket in joined rounds: a flat base, solid wall rounds, one mesh round, three leaf rounds, and a scallop round. The strap is worked flat in rows from top to bottom. Then you sew the baskets onto the strap, add a two-round corded border, and fold the neck over the ring.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide × 18.6 in (47.2 cm) hanging length
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
  • Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
  • Number of pieces: 4 (3 baskets, 1 back strap)
  • Layout: 1 column of 3 baskets on a vertical strap
  • Piece size: Basket base 5.6 in (14.2 cm) across; wall 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
  • Strap size before border: 3 in (7.6 cm) wide × 20 in (50.8 cm) long, laid flat
  • Border depth: 0.4 in (1.0 cm), so the strap is 3.8 in (9.7 cm) wide after the border

Materials

Use a smooth, firm 100% cotton or a cotton blend in worsted weight. Cotton holds the basket shape, shows off the leaf veins, and copes with bathroom humidity. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy acrylic, because the baskets will sag under the weight of the rolls.

  • Dark emerald green: 120 g (230 m / 252 yd)
  • About 25 g per basket and 30 g for the strap and border

These quantities include a margin of about 15 g, so you won’t run short if your gauge runs slightly loose.

Tools:

  • 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
  • One wooden ring, 2 in (5.1 cm) across
  • Tapestry needle
  • 4 locking stitch markers
  • Scissors and tape measure
  • Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat
  • Optional: a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) jar or a spare roll to shape the baskets

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
  • BLO – back loop only
  • sp(s) – space(s)
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • rsc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)

Special stitch: fpdc (front post double crochet). Yarn over and insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below. Yarn over and pull up a loop, then [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] twice. This stitch forms the raised vein down the center of each leaf.

Gauge and Checkpoints

  • Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm); 16 dc and 8 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm)

Make one basket before you start the strap, because the basket is the best gauge test.

  • After Round 6 (36 sts): The base measures 2.8 in (7.1 cm) across.
  • After Round 12 (72 sts): The base measures 5.6 in (14.2 cm) across.
  • After Round 16: The solid wall measures 0.9 in (2.3 cm) tall.
  • After Round 20: The wall measures 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
  • After Round 21: The wall measures 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall at the scallop peaks.

If the base is more than 0.25 in (0.6 cm) too big, change to a 3.75 mm hook. If it’s too small, change to a 4.5 mm hook. A roll should drop in easily, with about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of room all around.

Dark green crocheted textile with intricate cable patterns and openwork details, topped with brass horns.

Basket (make 3)

Base

Work in joined rounds. Don’t turn, and keep the right side facing you.

  • Round 1: Magic ring, ch 1, 6 sc in the ring, sl st to the first sc to join. (6)
  • Round 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around, join. (12)
  • Round 3: Ch 1, [sc in next st, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, join. (18)
  • Round 4: Ch 1, [sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, join. (24)
  • Rounds 5–12: Continue the same way. Each round adds 1 more sc between the increases than the round before. Round 12 is [sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next st] 6 times, join. (72)

Stitch counts: Round 5 (30), Round 6 (36), Round 7 (42), Round 8 (48), Round 9 (54), Round 10 (60), Round 11 (66), Round 12 (72). Check the base diameter now.

Solid Wall

  • Round 13 (conversion round): Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, join. (72 + 0 = 72) This round turns the edge up to start the wall. It leaves a ridge of free front loops that you’ll use later for joining.
  • Rounds 14–16: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (72)

Lace Band

  • Round 17 (mesh): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), skip next st, [dc in next st, ch 1, skip next st] around, join to the 3rd ch of the ch-4. (36 dc, 36 ch-1 sps)
  • Round 18 (leaf base): Ch 3 (counts as the first dc). [Dc in next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc] 3 times. This makes the 7-dc leaf base, with the center dc as the 4th. [Ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp, dc in next dc] 2 times, ch 1, skip next ch-1 sp. Dc in next dc. Repeat from * 5 more times, ending the last repeat at *. Join to the top of the ch-3. (54 dc, 18 ch-1 sps)

Each of the 6 repeats now has a 7-dc leaf base and a small mesh section of 2 dc and 3 ch-1 sps.

  • Round 19: Ch 3, dc in the same st. Dc in next 2 dc, fpdc around the next dc (the center dc), dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc. This makes 9 leaf sts. Ch 1, skip (ch-1 sp, dc), (dc, ch 1, dc) in next ch-1 sp, ch 1, skip (dc, ch-1 sp). 2 dc in next dc. Repeat from * 5 more times, ending at *. Join. (66 dc, 18 ch-1 sps)
  • Round 20: Ch 3, dc in the same st. Dc in next 3 dc, fpdc around the fpdc, dc in next 3 dc, 2 dc in next dc. This makes 11 leaf sts. Ch 1, skip (ch-1 sp, dc), sc in the ch-1 sp of the V, ch 1, skip (dc, ch-1 sp). 2 dc in next dc. Repeat from * 5 more times, ending at *. Join. (66 dc, 6 sc, 12 ch-1 sps)

The leaves widen by 2 sts per round, so they fan outward. Meanwhile, the mesh between them narrows to a single sc.

Scallop Rim

  • Round 21: Ch 1. Sc in next dc, hdc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, 2 dc in next dc, (dc, ch 2, dc) in the fpdc, 2 dc in next dc, dc in next 2 dc, hdc in next dc, sc in next dc. This makes 14 sts and 1 ch-2 sp. Skip the ch-1 sp, sl st in the sc, skip the ch-1 sp. Repeat from * 5 more times. Join and fasten off. (84 sts, 6 ch-2 sps, 6 sl sts)

The sl st sits low between each pair of scallops, which makes the deep dips in the rim. Weave in the ends.

Back Strap (make 1)

Work the strap flat in rows from the top down. Ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.

Neck

  • Row 1: Ch 7, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across, turn. (6)
  • Rows 2–16: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (6)

The neck is now 3.6 in (9.1 cm) long.

Shoulder

  • Row 17: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in the last st, turn. (8)
  • Row 18: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in the last st, turn. (10)
  • Row 19: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in the last st, turn. (12)

Body

  • Rows 20–83: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (12)

The body is 64 rows, about 14.2 in (36.1 cm) long. Place markers at the side edges of Rows 36, 56, and 76. These rows are where the bottom edges of the baskets will sit.

Fishtail Tail

First lobe:

  • Row 84: Ch 1, sc in the first 6 sts only, turn. (6)
  • Row 85: Ch 1, sc2tog at the inner edge, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in the last st at the outer edge, turn. (6)
  • Row 86: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st at the outer edge, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog at the inner edge, turn. (6)
  • Row 87: Repeat Row 85. (6)
  • Row 88: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, turn. (4)
  • Row 89: Ch 1, [sc2tog] twice, turn. (2)
  • Row 90: Ch 1, sc2tog. (1) Fasten off.

Second lobe: Join the yarn in the 7th st of Row 83, at the center.

  • Row 84: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the remaining 5 sts, turn. (6)
  • Row 85: Ch 1, 2 sc in the first st at the outer edge, sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog at the inner edge, turn. (6)
  • Row 86: Ch 1, sc2tog at the inner edge, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in the last st at the outer edge, turn. (6)
  • Row 87: Repeat Row 85. (6)
  • Rows 88–90: Work the same as the first lobe. (1) Fasten off.

Each lobe slants outward by moving one stitch per shaping row, which gives the fishtail its flared shape. The flat strap now measures 3 in (7.6 cm) wide × 20 in (50.8 cm) long, or 90 rows.

Make All Pieces

  • Dark emerald green: 3 baskets and 1 back strap, 4 pieces in total

Layout (front view, top to bottom):

        [ ring ]
        [ neck ]
       [shoulder]
   [  BASKET 1  ]   base seam on Row 36
   [  BASKET 2  ]   base seam on Row 56
   [  BASKET 3  ]   base seam on Row 76
       [ strap ]
      [ fishtail ]

Joining

Method: Whipstitch with the tapestry needle and a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail of yarn.

Lining up the stitches: The strap is 12 sts wide. One basket wall is 72 sts around, which is 6 repeats of 12 sts. Turn a basket so one leaf is centered at the front. The leaf directly opposite will then sit against the strap, and 12 of the free front loops from Round 12 will lie across the strap’s 12 sts.

  1. Base seam: Line up the ridge of free loops with marked Row 36. Whipstitch 1 free front loop to 1 strap st, 12 times. That’s 12 stitches to 12, with no extras.
  2. Side seams: Sew up both side columns of the 12-st back panel through the 4 solid wall rounds (Rounds 13–16). These match Rows 35–32 on the strap, 1 round to 1 row.
  3. Top tack: Tack the outer dc of the back leaf in Round 20 to the strap, at each side, at about Row 23.

Repeat with Basket 2 at Row 56 and Basket 3 at Row 76.

Tension: Pull each stitch just snug. If you pull too hard, the base will pucker and the baskets will tip forward. If the stitches are too loose, the baskets will droop away from the strap.

Checkpoint: The scallop peaks of each lower basket should sit about 4 rows, or 0.9 in (2.3 cm), below the base of the basket above. Lay the holder flat. It should measure 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide across the baskets.

Border

Border gauge: 18 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) along the side edges, which is 1 sc per row-end. This matches the strap’s row gauge, so the edge stays the same length as the fabric. The tiny extra length compared with the stitch gauge gives the crab stitch the slack it needs to twist without pulling.

Fold the baskets out of the way. The basket seams sit on the front of the strap, so all the row-ends stay free.

  • Round 1: With the right side facing, join the yarn at the top-right corner of Row 1.
  • Top edge: Working into the foundation ch, 2 sc in the first st, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in the last st. (8)
  • Left side: 1 sc in each row-end from Row 1 to Row 83. (83)
  • Left lobe: 1 sc in each outer row-end (7), 3 sc in the tip (3), and 1 sc in each of the first 6 inner row-ends (6).
  • Crotch: Sc2tog over the last inner row-end of this lobe and the first inner row-end of the next lobe. (1)
  • Right lobe: 1 sc in each of the remaining 6 inner row-ends (6), 3 sc in the tip (3), and 1 sc in each outer row-end (7).
  • Right side: 1 sc in each row-end from Row 83 to Row 1. (83)
  • Join. The total is 8 + 83 + 7 + 3 + 6 + 1 + 6 + 3 + 7 + 83 = 207 sc.
  • Round 2: Ch 1, rsc in each sc around, join. (207) Fasten off.

Why the math works: Each side count comes straight from the row count: the neck (16) + shoulder (3) + body (64) = 83 row-ends. The lobes each add their own 7 rows. The corners get their extra sc only once, in the counts above. Round 2 works 1 rsc in each stitch, so the count stays the same.

Attach the ring: Pass Row 1 through the wooden ring from front to back. Fold the neck at Rows 8/9 and whipstitch Row 1 across the back of Row 16. After folding, 1.8 in (4.6 cm) of neck shows below the ring.

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all the remaining ends along the solid sc areas.
  2. Spray or soak the whole holder lightly, then press out the extra water in a towel.
  3. Slide a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) jar or a wrapped roll into each basket.
  4. Pin each scallop peak up and out so the rim forms 6 even arches. Then press each fpdc vein so it stands up straight.
  5. Lay the strap flat. Pin it to 3.8 in (9.7 cm) wide and fan the tail lobes outward.
  6. Let everything dry completely, which takes 24 hours, before you hang the holder.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • [ ] Each basket base measures 5.6 in (14.2 cm) and has 72 sts in Round 12.
  • [ ] Each basket has 6 leaves, and every leaf has a straight raised vein.
  • [ ] Each rim has 6 scallops, and there’s a sl st dip between each pair.
  • [ ] The strap is 12 sts wide and 90 rows long.
  • [ ] Every base seam uses 12 stitches to 12 and sits level.
  • [ ] The border has 207 sts in both rounds.
  • [ ] The hanging length is 18.6 in (47.2 cm) and the width is 6.5 in (16.5 cm).
  • [ ] The ring loop is sewn securely and no ends are showing.

Troubleshooting

  • The base cups before Round 12: Your tension is tight. Go up a hook size for the base only.
  • The base ruffles: You’ve added too many sts. Recount; each round should add exactly 6.
  • The leaves lean to one side: The fpdc went around the wrong post. Count 3 dc out from the leaf’s edge to find the center.
  • The scallops lie flat: Block them over a jar and pin the ch-2 peaks upward.
  • The baskets tip forward: Add a second tack point at Round 18 on each side.
  • The border waves: Your crab stitch is too loose. Change to a 3.75 mm hook for Round 2.
  • The roll won’t fit: The basket is too small. Remake it with a larger hook.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, then reshape it over a roll and lay it flat to dry. Don’t tumble dry, because heat can shrink the cotton and pull the scallops out of shape.

Dark green crocheted toilet paper holder with three white rolls hanging on white subway tile bathroom wall.

Final Notes

Everything in this pattern follows one measurement chain. First, the gauge of 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 72-st base 5.6 in (14.2 cm) across. That makes a 3.5 in (8.9 cm) basket wall with 6 leaves of 12 sts each. One 12-st repeat matches the 12-st strap, which is 3 in (7.6 cm) wide. The strap’s 83 row-ends per side set the border count of 207. That border gives a finished holder 3.8 in (9.7 cm) wide at the strap, 6.5 in (16.5 cm) at the baskets, and 18.6 in (47.2 cm) long. If you check each link in that chain as you go, the finished holder will hang straight and hold its shape.

Happy crocheting!

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