The Evergreen Lattice Valance is a classic window panel made from lacy flower squares turned on point. Rows of cream diamonds alternate with rows of forest-green diamonds, so the light coming through the window shows a harlequin lattice.
A solid green band and nine tabs finish the top edge. The bottom follows the diamond points, and each point gets a tassel: cream on the cream points and green on the green points that sit just above them.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished valance measures 42.9 in (109.0 cm) wide and 37.4 in (95.0 cm) long from the top of the band to the lowest diamond points. Tassels add 4 in (10.2 cm).
To build it, you make 50 solid-color squares plus green setting triangles that fill the top edge and the sides. Next, you join everything with flat slip stitch seams, work a single crochet edge around the top and sides, and crochet the green band and tabs. Tassels go on last.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 42.9 in × 37.4 in (109.0 cm × 95.0 cm), plus 4 in (10.2 cm) tassels
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 65 (30 cream squares, 20 green squares, 13 green half-triangles, 2 green quarter-triangles)
- Layout: set on point, 5 cream rows of 6 diamonds, 4 green rows of 5 diamonds
- Square size: 5 in (12.7 cm) per side, 7.1 in (18.0 cm) point to point
- Size before border: 42.4 in × 35.4 in (107.7 cm × 89.9 cm)
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) at the sides; 2 in (5.1 cm) top band
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend of about 200 m per 100 g. Cotton holds the points crisp and hangs straight in a window. Acrylic also works, but it drapes more.
- Cream: 400 g (about 800 m)
- Forest green: 550 g (about 1,100 m)
These amounts include a margin of roughly 10%.
Tools
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
- 4 in (10.2 cm) piece of cardboard for tassels
- Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
- Spray bottle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- tc – turning chain
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
- BLO – back loop only
Special stitch – 2-dc cluster (cl): Yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, pull up a loop, yarn over and pull through 2 loops. Repeat once more in the same stitch, then yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.
Beginning cluster (beg cl): Ch 2, then work 1 unfinished dc in the same stitch and pull through all loops.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make one cream square before anything else and check it at each stage:
- After Round 1: 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across
- After Round 3: 3.75 in (9.5 cm) per side
- After Round 4: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) per side
- After Round 5: 5 in (12.7 cm) per side
Border gauge: 41 sc = 10 in (25.4 cm) along the joined edges.
If your square is bigger than 5 in (12.7 cm), go down half a hook size. If it is smaller, go up half a size. Even a 0.25 in (0.6 cm) error per square adds up to 1.5 in (3.8 cm) over six diamonds, so fix gauge before you make the rest.
Square (make 30 cream, 20 green)
Each square uses a single color, so there are no color changes.
Round 1: Make a magic ring, ch 3 (counts as dc), 15 dc in ring, join with sl st to top of ch-3. Pull the ring closed. (16 dc)
Round 2: Beg cl in the same st, ch 3, skip next dc, cl in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc; repeat from * 6 more times, join to top of beg cl. (8 clusters, 8 ch-3 sps)*
These clusters make the eight-petal flower.
Round 3: Sl st into first ch-3 sp, (ch 3, 2 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in the same sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next sp, ch 1; repeat from * 2 more times, join. (36 dc, 8 ch-1 sps, 4 corner ch-2 sps; 11 sts per side between corner sps)*
Round 4: Sl st in next 2 dc and into the ch-2 sp, (ch 3, dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, dc in each of the next 11 sts (dc and ch-1 sps), (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner sp, dc in each of next 11 sts; repeat from * 2 more times, join. (60 dc, 15 dc per side between corner sps)*
Round 5: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in each dc around, working 3 sc in each corner ch-2 sp, join. Fasten off. (72 sc)
Per-side count: 15 sc + 3 sc at each corner = 18 sc per repeat × 4 = 72. If you count from one corner’s center sc to the next corner’s center sc, both included, each side has 19 sts. That 19 is the joining count.
Half-Triangle (make 13 green)
Half-triangles fill the gaps along the top edge and the sides. Each one is half of the square, split corner to corner. Work in rows, turning each row.
Row 1: Magic ring, ch 3 (counts as dc), 8 dc in ring. Turn; do not join. Snug the ring into a half-circle. (9 dc)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), cl in next dc, (ch 3, skip next dc, cl in next dc) 3 times, ch 1, dc in top of tc. Turn. (4 clusters, 3 ch-3 sps, 2 ch-1 sps)
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in last ch-1 sp, dc in 3rd ch of tc. Turn. (18 dc, 4 ch-1 sps, 1 ch-2 corner; 11 sts per leg)
Row 4: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in the first st, dc in each of next 10 sts, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in corner sp, dc in each of next 10 sts, 3 dc in top of tc. Turn. (30 dc; 15 dc per leg)
Row 5: Ch 1, 3 sc in first dc, sc in each of next 14 dc, 3 sc in corner sp, sc in each of next 14 dc, 3 sc in last dc. Fasten off. (37 sc)
Count each leg from the outer sc of the tip group to the center sc of the right-angle corner: 3 + 14 + 2 = 19 sts. This matches a square side. The long side (row ends) becomes the outer edge of the valance.
Quarter-Triangle (make 2 green)
These fill the two top corners. The right angle becomes the corner of the valance, and the long side joins to a full square side.
Row 1: Magic ring, ch 3 (counts as dc), 4 dc in ring. Turn. (5 dc)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), cl in next dc, ch 3, skip next dc, cl in next dc, ch 1, dc in top of tc. Turn. (2 clusters)
Row 3: Ch 3, 2 dc in ch-1 sp, ch 1, 3 dc in ch-3 sp, ch 1, 2 dc in last ch-1 sp, dc in 3rd ch of tc. Turn. (9 dc, 2 ch-1 sps = 11 sts)
Row 4: Ch 3, 2 dc in first st, dc in each of next 9 sts, 3 dc in top of tc. Turn. (15 dc)
Row 5: Ch 1, 3 sc in first dc, sc in each of next 13 dc, 3 sc in last dc. Fasten off. (19 sc)
Make All Pieces
- Cream: 30 squares
- Green: 20 squares, 13 half-triangles, 2 quarter-triangles
Lay them out RS up as shown below. C = cream square, G = green square, T = half-triangle with its long edge at the top, H = half-triangle with its long edge at the side, Q = quarter-triangle. Each G, T and H sits in the gap between two C points.
Top: Q T T T T T Q
R1: C C C C C C
R2: H G G G G G H
R3: C C C C C C
R4: H G G G G G H
R5: C C C C C C
R6: H G G G G G H
R7: C C C C C C
R8: H G G G G G H
R9: C C C C C C
Row 9 has no pieces below it, so its lower points form the zigzag hem.
Joining
Every seam joins a cream piece to a green piece. Join with green yarn so the seams blend into the green diamonds.
Method: Flat slip stitch join through the BLO. Place two edges side by side, RS up. Insert the hook through the back loop of one stitch on each piece and sl st. Continue stitch for stitch.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each square side, each half-triangle leg and each quarter-triangle long edge has 19 sts, corner centers included. Each seam is 19 sl sts, matched 1 to 1. Never skip or double up.
Order: All seams fall on two diagonal directions. First, work every seam that runs from upper left to lower right as one long continuous line, passing from seam to seam through the corner centers. Then work all the lower-left to upper-right lines the same way. Where four corners meet, sl st through the corner centers of both pieces you are joining and carry on.
Tension: Keep each sl st as tall as the sc beneath it. If the seams pull, the diamonds pucker and the panel narrows. A tight joiner should go up one hook size for joining only.
Checkpoint: Laid flat, the joined panel should measure 42.4 in (107.7 cm) across the top and 31.8 in (80.8 cm) down each straight side. It should measure 35.4 in (89.9 cm) from the top edge to the lowest points.
Border
Border gauge: 41 sc = 10 in (25.4 cm). Along the outer edges, work 3 sc into each dc row-end and 1 sc into each sc row-end.
Row 1 (RS, green): Join green at the left point of the bottom-left cream square, in its corner center st. Work up the left side, then across the top, then down the right side:
- Left side (131 sc): 1 sc in the cream corner center, then for each of 4 half-triangles: sc in tip, 13 sc across row-ends to the ring, 13 sc to the next tip, sc in tip (28). Work 1 sc in each cream point between them. Finish with 13 sc down the quarter-triangle leg plus 1 in its tip (14). That’s 5 + 112 + 14 = 131.
- Corner: 3 sc in the quarter-triangle’s ring point.
- Top (174 sc): quarter leg (14), then 6 cream points (1 each) and 5 half-triangles (28 each) alternating, then the second quarter leg (14). That’s 14 + 6 + 140 + 14 = 174.
- Corner: 3 sc.
- Right side (131 sc): mirror the left side.
Fasten off. (442 sc)
Why the math works: The top edge is 3.5 in + 5 × 7.1 in + 3.5 in. That is 42.4 in (107.7 cm), and 174 sc ÷ 4.1 sc per inch = 42.4 in. The sides run 31.8 in (80.8 cm), and 131 sc ÷ 4.1 = 32 in. Both match the border gauge, so the edge stays flat.
Top band: With RS facing, join green in the center sc of the top-left corner.
Band Row 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across to the center sc of the opposite corner. Turn. (176 dc: 1 + 174 + 1)
Band Rows 2–3: Ch 3, dc in each st across. Turn. (176 dc)
Fasten off. Together, the band and Border Row 1 measure 2 in (5.1 cm) deep.
Tabs (make 9): Each tab is 8 sts wide, and the gaps between tabs are 13 sts. The math is 9 × 8 + 8 × 13 = 72 + 104 = 176, so the end tabs sit flush with the edges. Tabs start at sts 1, 22, 43, 64, 85, 106, 127, 148 and 169.
With RS facing, join green in the first st of the tab. Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 7 sts. (8 sc) Work rows of ch 1, turn, 8 sc until the tab measures 5 in (12.7 cm), about 22 rows. Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Fold the tab to the WS and whipstitch the last row to the WS of Band Row 1. Each tab is about 2 in (5.1 cm) wide.
Tassels (make 6 cream, 5 green): Wrap yarn 20 times around the 4 in (10.2 cm) card. Tie it at the top, cut the bottom loops, and wrap the neck 0.5 in (1.3 cm) below the tie. Attach a cream tassel to the lower corner center of each Row 9 cream square. Attach a green tassel to the lower point of each Row 8 green square, where it meets two cream points. Trim all tassels to 4 in (10.2 cm).
Final Blocking
- Lay the valance WS up on the blocking mats.
- Pin the top band straight to 42.9 in (109.0 cm).
- Pin both sides straight to 33.8 in (85.9 cm) including the band, from the top corner to the bottom-side cream point.
- Pin out every bottom point so the hem is 37.4 in (95.0 cm) from the band top.
- Pin each flower petal and chain space open on a few diamonds to check the lattice is even.
- Mist until damp and let it dry fully.
- Leave the tabs and tassels unpinned. Steam-fluff the tassels after drying.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every square measures 5 in (12.7 cm) per side
- Every seam has exactly 19 sl sts
- Cream and green rows alternate, with no two cream pieces touching
- Border Row 1 has 442 sc: 131 + 3 + 174 + 3 + 131
- Band has 176 dc in each row
- 9 tabs, evenly spaced
- 11 tassels, alternating cream and green
- Width 42.9 in (109.0 cm), length 37.4 in (95.0 cm)
- All tails are woven in along the seams
Troubleshooting
Square is cupping: The Round 2 chains are too tight. Loosen them, or work ch 4 instead of ch 3.
Square is ruffling: Check that Round 4 has exactly 11 sts per side between the corner groups.
Triangles don’t match square sides: Count Row 5 again. Each leg needs 19 sts, including the 3-sc tip group.
Seams pucker: Rejoin with a larger hook. Keep the sl sts as tall as the sc.
Border ripples: You have too many sts on the edge. Work 2 sc instead of 3 in Row 1 dc row-ends of each triangle.
Border pulls in: You have too few sts on the edge. Add 1 sc per triangle half-edge, then remove the same number elsewhere so the band stays at 176 sts.
Valance hangs crooked: Measure the tab spacing again, and re-block the band straight.
Care
Hand wash cool and roll the valance in a towel to remove water. Dry flat, re-pinning the points, and keep it away from direct dryer heat.
Final Notes
Everything follows from one measurement. Each square is 5 in (12.7 cm) per side, which makes each diamond 7.1 in (18.0 cm) point to point. Six diamonds make 42.4 in (107.7 cm) across, and nine offset rows make 35.4 in (89.9 cm) down. With the edge and band added, the valance measures 42.9 in × 37.4 in (109.0 cm × 95.0 cm). Get your first square right and the rest will fit.
Happy crocheting!