This Garden Daisy Plastic Bag Holder is a tall tube, open at both ends, that keeps grocery bags tidy on a wall hook. You stuff bags in the top and pull them out one at a time from the bottom. The cuffs are snug enough to hold the bags in place without trapping them.
The look is simple and cottage-garden. A soft cream body sits between two deep forest-green ribbed cuffs. White five-petal flowers with sunny yellow centers climb the tube in staggered tiers, and each one is framed by small pointed green leaves. A matching green strap forms the hanging loop.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures 16 in (40.6 cm) around, about 5 in (12.7 cm) across when round, and 14 in (35.6 cm) long from cuff edge to cuff edge. With the strap, it hangs about 19 in (48.3 cm) tall.
Construction is simple. You work the cream body in joined rounds of half double crochet, then add a ribbed green cuff to each edge. The flowers, leaves and strap are made separately and sewn on.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 16 in (40.6 cm) around, 8 in (20.3 cm) wide when flattened, 14 in (35.6 cm) long
- Hanging height with strap: about 19 in (48.3 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate (front and back post stitches)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 tubular body, 1 strap, 8 flowers, 24 leaves (the appliqués are sewn to the body)
- Layout: 4 tiers of 2 flowers, each tier turned a quarter turn from the one below
- Body size before cuffs: 16 in (40.6 cm) around x 10 in (25.4 cm) tall
- Cuff (border) depth: 2 in (5.1 cm) each, top and bottom
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape, doesn’t stretch much under the weight of the bags, and shows the post-stitch ribbing clearly. Avoid fuzzy yarns, which hide the petal points.
- Forest green: 120 g, about 220 m (cuffs, strap, leaves)
- Cream: 120 g, about 230 m (body)
- White: 30 g, about 60 m (flowers)
- Yellow: 10 g, about 15 m (flower centers)
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Stitch markers (at least 4)
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a spray bottle for blocking
All quantities include a safety margin of roughly 15 percent.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- tr: treble crochet
- sk: skip
- sp: space
- st(s): stitch(es)
- MR: magic ring
- FPdc: front post double crochet. Yarn over, insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below, and complete as a dc.
- BPdc: back post double crochet. Yarn over, insert the hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch below, and complete as a dc.
- Picot: ch 2, sl st in the top of the stitch just made.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Body gauge: 16 hdc and 12 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in cream.
Cuff gauge: 16 sts and 8 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in dc ribbing, so 2 rounds = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Make one flower first, then a short section of the body. The flower is the quickest way to check that your yarn and hook give a balanced shape.
Checkpoints:
- One flower: about 3 in (7.6 cm) from one petal tip across to the opposite petal edge.
- One leaf: about 2 in (5.1 cm) long and 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.
- Body after Round 1: 16 in (40.6 cm) around, or 8 in (20.3 cm) laid flat.
- Body after Round 15: 5 in (12.7 cm) tall.
- Body after Round 30: 10 in (25.4 cm) tall.
- Each cuff: 2 in (5.1 cm) deep.
If the body is too big, go down one hook size. If it’s too small, go up one hook size. Fix your gauge before Round 3, because every later measurement depends on the 64-stitch circumference.
Body
Work in joined rounds with the right side facing. The beginning ch 1 does not count as a stitch. Keep the join line at the back of the holder.
With cream, ch 64. Join with a sl st to the first ch, making sure the chain isn’t twisted.
Round 1: Ch 1, hdc in each ch around, sl st to the first hdc to join. (64 hdc)
Rounds 2–30: Ch 1, hdc in each st around, sl st to the first hdc to join. (64 hdc in each round)
Check that the body measures 10 in (25.4 cm) tall and 16 in (40.6 cm) around. Fasten off, leaving a short tail to weave in.
Flowers (make 8)
Round 1: With yellow, MR, ch 1, 10 sc in the ring. Pull the ring closed, sl st to the first sc. (10 sc) Fasten off yellow.
Round 2: Join white in any sc. *Sc in next st, ch 3, sk next st; repeat from * 4 more times, sl st to the first sc. (5 sc, 5 ch-3 sps)
Round 3: Sl st into the next ch-3 sp. In that sp work (sc, hdc, dc, tr, picot, tr, dc, hdc, sc), then sl st in the next sc of Round 2. Repeat in every ch-3 sp. (5 petals, each with 8 sts plus 1 picot)
The tr-picot-tr in the middle of each petal makes the pointed tip. Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail for sewing.
Checkpoint: each flower is about 3 in (7.6 cm) across.
Leaves (make 24)
With green, ch 8.
Leaf: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, then work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the last ch for the tip. Now work along the other side of the foundation chain: sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next 2 ch, hdc in next ch, sc in last ch. Sl st to the first sc. (14 sts plus 1 ch-2 tip)
Fasten off, leaving an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail. Checkpoint: 2 in (5.1 cm) long and 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.
Strap
With green, ch 56.
Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (55 sc)
Rows 2–3: Ch 1, sc in each st across. Turn. (55 sc in each row)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Checkpoint: 13.75 in (34.9 cm) long and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide. Set the strap aside until the cuffs are done.
Attaching the Appliqués
Lay the body flat with the join line centered on the back. Count stitches from the join. The join is stitch 1, so stitch 33 is at the center front.
Place markers for the flower centers:
- Tier 1 (Round 6): stitches 8 and 40
- Tier 2 (Round 12): stitches 24 and 56
- Tier 3 (Round 19): stitches 8 and 40
- Tier 4 (Round 25): stitches 24 and 56
Each tier sits 16 stitches (a quarter turn) around from the tier below. That spacing makes the zigzag climb and leaves at least 1 in (2.5 cm) of cream between neighboring flowers.
Tuck 3 leaves under each flower, spaced evenly around it, with about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of each leaf tip showing past the petals. Pin them in place. Whipstitch the outer edges of the leaves down first. Then sew each flower down around the base of every petal, leaving the petal tips free to lift slightly.
Keep one hand inside the tube while you sew so you never stitch through both layers.
Border: Ribbed Cuffs
Border gauge: 16 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm); 2 rounds = 1 in (2.5 cm).
You work both cuffs directly onto the body, 1 stitch into each body stitch. The beginning ch 2 does not count as a stitch.
Bottom Cuff
Turn the body upside down so the foundation chain is on top. Join green in the free loop at the back join.
Round 1: Ch 2, dc in each free loop of the foundation chain around, sl st to the first dc. (64 dc: 32 on the front face, 32 on the back face)
Round 2: Ch 2, *FPdc around next st, BPdc around next st; repeat from * 31 more times, sl st to the first st. (64 sts: 32 FPdc, 32 BPdc)
Rounds 3–4: Ch 2, *FPdc around the FPdc, BPdc around the BPdc; repeat from * around, sl st to the first st. (64 sts in each round)
Fasten off. Checkpoint: 2 in (5.1 cm) deep.
Top Cuff
Join green in Round 30 at the back join. Repeat Rounds 1–4 of the bottom cuff, working Round 1 into the tops of the Round 30 stitches. (64 sts in each round)
Why the Math Works
The body has 64 stitches, and each cuff starts with exactly 64 stitches, 1 for each body stitch. No stitches are added or skipped, so the cuffs match the body’s 16 in (40.6 cm) circumference. Laid flat, each face shows 32 stitches, which is 8 in (20.3 cm) at 4 stitches per inch.
A 1×1 rib needs an even stitch count. 64 stitches make 32 FPdc/BPdc pairs with nothing left over, so the ribs line up straight all the way around. Post-stitch ribbing pulls in a little, which helps the cuffs hold the bags. Before blocking, expect each cuff to be up to 0.5 in (1.3 cm) narrower than the body.
Four rounds at 2 rounds per inch make each cuff 2 in (5.1 cm) deep. The total length is 2 + 10 + 2 = 14 in (35.6 cm).
Attaching the Strap
Mark stitch 1 and stitch 33 in the last round of the top cuff. These two points sit directly opposite each other. Pin one strap end inside the cuff at each marker, overlapping 1 in (2.5 cm), and check that the strap isn’t twisted. Whipstitch all four edges of each overlap securely.
That leaves 11.75 in (29.8 cm) of free strap. Spanning the 5 in (12.7 cm) opening, it rises about 5 in (12.7 cm) above the rim, so the holder hangs about 19 in (48.3 cm) tall.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends on the inside of the tube.
- Slide a rolled towel or a cardboard tube about 5 in (12.7 cm) across inside the holder.
- Spray the whole piece until it is evenly damp but not dripping.
- Smooth the body to 10 in (25.4 cm) between the cuffs and the full piece to 14 in (35.6 cm) long.
- Gently shape each flower and pinch the petal tips into points.
- Flatten the leaf tips and pin any that curl.
- Lay the strap flat and straight.
- Leave it to dry completely, at least 24 hours, before removing the form.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every body round has 64 stitches, and the body measures 16 in (40.6 cm) around.
- The body is 10 in (25.4 cm) tall after 30 rounds.
- Every cuff round has 64 stitches, and each cuff is 2 in (5.1 cm) deep.
- The ribs run straight, with no doubled FPdc or BPdc.
- The total length is 14 in (35.6 cm).
- There are 8 flowers, each about 3 in (7.6 cm) across with 5 pointed petals.
- There are 24 leaves, 3 under each flower.
- No stitches go through both layers of the tube.
- The strap ends sit opposite each other and are sewn securely.
- All ends are woven in on the inside.
Troubleshooting
The body seam leans to one side. Joined hdc rounds can drift. Always make the first hdc of each round in the same stitch as the join, and move your marker up every round.
The tube is too wide or too narrow. Your gauge is off. Change hook size and start again. A small difference per inch adds up quickly over 64 stitches.
The cuffs flare. Your post stitches are too loose. Go down half a hook size for the cuffs only.
The petals are round, not pointed. Make the picot snug and work the tr stitches with firm tension.
The leaves curl. Steam them lightly or block them flat before sewing.
Bags fall straight through. Add one more round to the bottom cuff: ch 1, *sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * 7 more times, sl st to the first sc. (48 sc + 8 sc2tog = 56 sts) This narrows the opening.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Press the water out in a towel, then dry flat or over a form. Don’t tumble dry, because the appliqués can lose their shape.
Final Notes
Every measurement comes back to one number: 64 stitches. At 16 stitches per 4 in (10.2 cm), that makes a body 16 in (40.6 cm) around. Thirty rounds at 3 rounds per inch make it 10 in (25.4 cm) tall. The two 64-stitch cuffs add 2 in (5.1 cm) each, for 14 in (35.6 cm) in total. The 13.75 in (34.9 cm) strap finishes a holder that hangs about 19 in (48.3 cm) tall.
Check your gauge and count your stitches at each checkpoint, and your daisies will land right where they belong.
Happy crocheting!