This little angel looks like vintage thread lace. Her skirt has four tiers of fan shells that get wider toward a picot-trimmed hem. Two open, airy wings frame a smiling wooden-bead face, and a braided gold halo sits on top of her curly hair.
The palette is soft and classic: cream cotton thread for the body, wings, hair and loop, plus a touch of gold metallic thread for the halo. Paint the bead face with simple closed eyes, a smile and blushing cheeks.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished ornament measures about 4 in (10.2 cm) wide across the wings and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall from the top of the halo to the hem. The hanging loop adds another 1 in (2.5 cm).
The skirt is worked flat in rows from the neck down, with a border round to finish. The wings are worked flat as half-circle fans. The hair cap and halo are small rounds. Everything is stiffened, then assembled around the wooden bead.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 4 in (10.2 cm) wide × 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall, plus a 1 in (2.5 cm) loop
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Size 3 crochet thread (Lace / #0)
- Hook: 2.25 mm (US B-1)
- Number of pieces: 1 ornament made from 5 crocheted parts (skirt, 2 wings, hair cap, halo) plus a loop and a bead head
- Layout: Single ornament; wings sewn behind the skirt’s neckline
- Skirt size: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide at the hem × 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall
- Skirt size before border: 3.25 in (8.3 cm) × 2.25 in (5.7 cm)
- Border depth: 0.125 in (0.3 cm) of single crochet; 0.25 in (0.6 cm) at the picot tips
Materials
Use a smooth, tightly twisted mercerized cotton thread. It shows stitch definition crisply and takes starch well. Avoid fuzzy or acrylic threads, because they will not hold the fan shapes.
- Cream size 3 cotton thread: 15 g (about 60 m)
- Gold metallic size 3 thread: 2 g (about 8 m)
These quantities include a margin for a gauge test and tails.
Tools:
– 2.25 mm (US B-1) crochet hook
– 20 mm (0.8 in) unfinished round wooden bead with a vertical hole
– Black fine-tip paint pen and pink paint or blush
– Tapestry needle and sewing needle
– 2 stitch markers
– Blocking board and rustproof pins
– Fabric stiffener or heavy starch
– Clear craft glue (optional)
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- sk – skip
- sp(s) – space(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Special stitches:
– V-st: (dc, ch 2, dc) in the same stitch.
– Shell: 7 dc (or 9 dc where stated) in the same space.
– Picot: ch 3, sl st in the 3rd ch from the hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 8 dc and 4 dc rows = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Make one wing first and use it as your gauge test. After Row 2, the straight edge should measure 1 in (2.5 cm) across. The finished wing should measure 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across the straight edge and 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall.
Skirt checkpoints (laid flat, unblocked):
– Row 1: 1.1 in (2.8 cm) wide
– After Row 3: 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide at the hem × 0.75 in (1.9 cm) tall
– After Row 5: 2.25 in (5.7 cm) × 1.25 in (3.2 cm)
– After Row 7: 2.75 in (7.0 cm) × 1.75 in (4.4 cm)
– After Row 9: 3.25 in (8.3 cm) × 2.25 in (5.7 cm)
– After the border: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) × 2.5 in (6.4 cm)
If your piece is too big, go down to a 2.0 mm hook. If it is too small, go up to a 2.5 mm hook. A difference of 0.25 in (0.6 cm) at the skirt hem is fine; blocking will even it out.
Skirt
The skirt is worked flat from the neck down. Shell rows (RS) alternate with V-stitch rows (WS). Each new tier has one more shell than the tier above.
Row 1 (RS): With cream, ch 10. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. Turn. (9 sc)
Row 2 (WS): Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), dc in the first sc (beginning V-st made). Ch 1, sk 3 sc, V-st in the next sc; rep from * once more. Turn. (3 V-sts, 2 ch-1 sps)
Row 3 (RS, Tier 1): Ch 1, sc in the first dc. 7-dc shell in the next ch-2 sp, sc in the next ch-1 sp; rep from * once more. Shell in the last ch-2 sp, then sc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch. Turn. (3 shells, 4 sc = 25 sts)
Row 4 (WS): Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), dc in the first sc. Ch 4, sk the shell, V-st in the next sc; rep from * 2 more times. Turn. (4 V-sts, 3 ch-4 sps)
Row 5 (RS, Tier 2): Ch 1, sc in the first dc. 7-dc shell in the next ch-2 sp, sc in the next ch-4 sp; rep from * 2 more times. Shell in the last ch-2 sp, then sc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch. Turn. (4 shells, 5 sc = 33 sts)
Row 6 (WS): Ch 5, dc in the first sc. Ch 4, sk the shell, V-st in the next sc; rep from * 3 more times. Turn. (5 V-sts, 4 ch-4 sps)
Row 7 (RS, Tier 3): Work as Row 5, but make 9-dc shells, repeating from * 3 more times. (5 shells, 6 sc = 51 sts)
Row 8 (WS): Ch 5, dc in the first sc. Ch 4, sk the shell, V-st in the next sc; rep from * 4 more times. Turn. (6 V-sts, 5 ch-4 sps)
Row 9 (RS, Tier 4): Work as Row 7, repeating from * 4 more times. Do not turn and do not fasten off. (6 shells, 7 sc = 61 sts)
The ch-4 bars in each V-st row pass behind the shells above them. This lets every tier sit on top of the one below it and creates the stacked-fan look.
Wings (Make 2)
Row 1: With cream, make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 8 dc in the ring. Pull the ring closed into a half-circle; do not join. Turn. (9 dc)
Row 2: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1). Dc in the next dc, ch 1; rep from * 6 more times. Dc in the top of the turning ch. Turn. (9 dc spokes, 8 ch-1 sps)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in the first dc. Ch 5, sc in the next dc; rep from * 7 more times. Turn. (9 sc, 8 ch-5 loops)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc in the first sc. Ch 4, sc in the next ch-5 loop, ch 4, sc in the next sc; rep from * 7 more times. Turn. (17 sc, 16 ch-4 loops)
The wing’s border is worked in the Border section below.
Hair Cap
Rnd 1: With cream, make a magic ring. Work 6 sc in the ring. Join with sl st to the first sc. (6 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 2 sc in each st around. Join. (12 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in the next st, 2 sc in the next st; rep around. Join. (18 sc) Checkpoint: the cap is 0.75 in (1.9 cm) across.
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (18 sc) The cap should now cup over the top of the bead.
Rnd 5 (curls): Sl st in the next st, 4 hdc in the next st; rep around. Join. (9 sl st + 36 hdc = 9 curls)
Fasten off, leaving an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail.
Halo
Rnd 1: With gold, ch 20 and join with sl st to form a ring, taking care not to twist it. Ch 1, sc in each ch. Join. (20 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, rev sc in each sc around. Join. (20 rev sc)
The halo should measure 0.8 in (2.0 cm) across. Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.
Hanging Loop
With cream, ch 18 to make a chain 2.25 in (5.7 cm) long. Sl st in the back bump of each ch to firm it up. Fasten off, leaving 6 in (15.2 cm) tails at both ends.
Border
Border gauge: about 7 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm) along the slanted row-end edges, and 1 sc per stitch across the hem.
Skirt border (RS, one round): Continue from the end of Row 9 and rotate to work along the first side edge.
- Side 1: Ch 1. Work 2 sc in each row end of Rows 9 through 2, then 1 sc in the row end of Row 1. (17 sc)
- Neck: Sc in each free loop of the foundation ch. (9 sc)
- Side 2: Work 1 sc in the row end of Row 1, then 2 sc in each row end of Rows 2 through 9. (17 sc)
- Hem: Sc in the first sc of Row 9, then picot. Sc in the next 4 dc, (sc, picot, sc) in the 5th dc, sc in the next 4 dc, (sc, picot) in the next sc; rep from * 5 more times. Join with sl st to the first sc of the round. Fasten off.
- Hem count: 61 sts worked one-per-stitch + 6 extra (one doubled center sc per shell) = 67 sc and 13 picots.
- Round total: 17 + 9 + 17 + 67 = 110 sc, 13 picots
Why the math works: The corner stitches belong only to the hem count. The side counts use row ends, not stitch tops, so nothing is counted twice. Each side edge is about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) long. At 17 sc it sits just under gauge, which keeps the springy lace edges from ruffling. Across the hem, the extra sc at the center of each shell gives the fan tip room to curve without cupping.
Wing border (Row 5): Ch 1. (2 sc, picot, 2 sc) in the next ch-4 loop; rep from * 15 more times. Fasten off. (64 sc, 16 picots) Leave the straight edge unbordered, because it is sewn behind the skirt.
Final Blocking
- Mix the stiffener following the label, or use heavy starch.
- Soak the skirt and both wings, then gently squeeze out the excess. Do not wring them.
- Pin the skirt to a trapezoid shape: 1.1 in (2.8 cm) across the neck, 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across the hem and 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall.
- Pin each hem picot outward. Pull the shell tips slightly into points so every tier is clearly visible.
- Pin each wing to a half-circle 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across and 1.25 in (3.2 cm) tall. Put one pin in each picot and keep the spokes straight.
- Shape the hair cap over the bead, wrapped in plastic wrap, and dab it with stiffener.
- Let everything dry completely, 12–24 hours.
- Assemble:
- Paint the face on the bead and let it dry.
- Thread both loop tails through the bead hole from the top, then through the center of the skirt neck. Knot them firmly on the WS.
- Glue or stitch the hair cap onto the top and back of the bead, with the curls framing the face.
- Sew the halo to the top of the hair cap, tilted slightly backward.
- Sew each wing’s straight edge behind the skirt at Rows 1–3, 0.75 in (1.9 cm) from center. Angle the wings up and out.
- Check that the span across the wings is 4 in (10.2 cm).
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Stitch counts: the skirt has 6 shells in the bottom tier and 110 sc plus 13 picots in the border
- Each wing has 16 picots
- The four tiers are evenly stacked and each one is visible
- The hem picots are evenly spaced and pinned crisp
- The wings match in size and angle
- The halo sits centered and level from the front
- The loop is knotted securely and the ornament hangs straight
- All tails are woven in and trimmed
Troubleshooting
- The skirt cups at the hem: Your shells are too tight. Go up a hook size or loosen the dc stitches.
- The skirt ruffles: Your ch-4 bars are too long. Work tighter chains or use ch 3.
- The tiers don’t overlap: Make sure each shell goes in a ch-2 sp of a V-st, not in a ch-4 sp.
- The wings curl: Block wetter and pin every picot.
- The ornament tilts when hung: Re-knot the loop so it is exactly centered through the bead.
- The halo flops: Add a dab of stiffener and let it dry upright.
Care
Spot clean only, using a damp cloth. Store the angel flat in tissue so the starched lace keeps its shape between seasons.
Final Notes
The measurement chain:
– Gauge: 8 dc = 1 in (2.5 cm)
– Wing: 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across
– Skirt after Row 9: 3.25 in (8.3 cm)
– Skirt after the border: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) × 2.5 in (6.4 cm)
– Finished angel: 4 in (10.2 cm) wide × 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall
Check each stage, block generously, and your angel will hang crisp and bright year after year.
Happy crocheting!