The Lattice Bloom Table Runner is a light, open runner made of small solid diamonds, each wrapped in four rope-like arcs. Once the motifs are joined, the arcs meet to form a repeating lattice of rounded petals and circles, and the solid centers run down the table as neat columns of diamonds.
The whole runner uses one cream cotton, so the texture carries the design. Bulky cotton cord gives the arcs a plump, braided look, and six full tassels finish the two short ends. The style fits a boho table as well as a classic farmhouse one.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. After the border, the runner measures 15.5 x 45.5 in (39.4 x 115.6 cm), not counting tassels. The tassels are 4 in (10.2 cm) long at each end, which makes the total length 53.5 in (135.9 cm).
Construction is straightforward. Each motif starts as a 3-round solid square turned on point, followed by 4 chain loops covered in single crochet. You join the motifs as you go in a grid 3 wide and 9 long. One border round then tidies the outer edge, and the tassels go on last.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 15.5 x 45.5 in (39.4 x 115.6 cm), plus tassels
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5) cotton or cotton cord
- Hook: 6 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 27 identical motifs
- Layout: 3 motifs wide x 9 motifs long
- Piece size: 5 x 5 in (12.7 x 12.7 cm), tip to tip
- Size before border: 15 x 45 in (38.1 x 114.3 cm)
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on every side
Materials
Pick a smooth, firm bulky cotton or a soft crochet cotton cord. A yarn with a slight twist gives the arcs their braided look. Avoid fuzzy or very loose blends, because they blur the lattice and stretch when washed.
Cotton holds its shape well on a table and handles frequent washing. If you substitute a cotton blend, swatch one full motif first, since blends often relax more after blocking. The quantity below assumes about 110 m per 100 g.
- Cream: 450 g, about 495 m (541 yd)
This quantity includes a margin of about 15 percent to cover your gauge motif, the tassels, and small differences in tension.
Tools:
- 6 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers
- Stiff card, 6 x 9 in (15.2 x 22.9 cm), for tassels
- Blocking mats, rust-proof pins, and a spray bottle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- MR – magic ring
- sp – space
- rep – repeat
- st(s) – stitch(es)
Special terms:
- Peak: the ch-1 at the center of each arc.
- Tip: the ch-2 between two arcs, which sits over a corner of the solid square.
- Peak join: instead of ch 1, sl st into the neighboring motif’s peak.
- Tip join: instead of ch 2, work ch 1, sl st into the neighboring motif’s tip, ch 1.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make one complete motif before you start the runner. Measure it unblocked, then again after a light steam or spritz.
- After Rnd 1: the square measures 1.5 in (3.8 cm) per side.
- After Rnd 2: 2.5 in (6.4 cm) per side.
- After Rnd 3: 3 in (7.6 cm) per side, about 4.25 in (10.8 cm) corner to corner.
- After Rnd 5: 5 in (12.7 cm) tip to tip, with each arc standing about 1 in (2.5 cm) clear of the square at its peak.
If your square is too big, go down 0.5 mm. If it is too small, go up 0.5 mm.
If the square is the right size but the arcs are floppy, work the ch-18 loops a little tighter. If the arcs cup or twist, loosen the chains. Any difference repeats 9 times along the length of the runner, so correct it now.
Motif (Make 27)
Hold the motif on point, with one corner pointing up. The arcs will then face up-right, down-right, down-left, and up-left.
Rnd 1: MR, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, [3 dc in ring, ch 2] 3 times, sl st to top of beginning ch-3. Pull the ring closed. (12 dc, 4 ch-2 sps)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 2 dc, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in ch-2 sp, dc in next 3 dc; rep from * 2 more times, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in last ch-2 sp, sl st to top of beginning ch-3. (28 dc: 7 per side, 4 ch-2 sps)*
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st and next 4 dc, (sc, ch 2, sc) in ch-2 sp, sc in next 7 dc; rep from * 2 more times, (sc, ch 2, sc) in last ch-2 sp, sc in last 2 dc, sl st to first sc. (36 sc: 9 per side, 4 ch-2 sps)*
Rnd 3 is a trim round. You work 28 sc, 1 in each existing dc, and add 8 sc at the corners, for 36 sc in total. The sc round gives the diamond a firm edge for the loops to anchor to.
Rnd 4: Sl st in next 5 sc and into the next ch-2 sp. [Ch 18, sl st in next ch-2 sp] 4 times, ending in the corner sp you started from. (4 ch-18 loops)
Each loop spans one side of the square and is anchored at both corners. Let it relax outward rather than pulling it flat against the square.
Rnd 5: In next ch-18 loop work 11 sc, ch 1 (peak), 11 sc; ch 2 (tip); rep from * 3 more times, sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (88 sc: 22 per arc, 4 peaks, 4 tips)*
Packing 22 sc over 18 ch makes the arcs firm and evenly rounded, and that gives them the rope-like texture. Each tip sits over a corner of the square, and each peak is the outermost point of its arc.
Per-side count: For the border, one side of a motif is 11 sc (the outer half of one arc), plus 1 tip, plus 11 sc (the outer half of the next arc). That makes 22 sc and 1 tip sp per side. The peaks between motifs are seams and are not counted in any side.
Make All Pieces
You need 27 motifs, all in Cream. Make Motif 1 complete. For every other motif, work Rnds 1–4 as written, then join it on Rnd 5.
Layout grid (motif numbers, worked row by row):
[ 1] [ 2] [ 3]
[ 4] [ 5] [ 6]
[ 7] [ 8] [ 9]
[10] [11] [12]
[13] [14] [15]
[16] [17] [18]
[19] [20] [21]
[22] [23] [24]
[25] [26] [27]
Row 1 is one short end and Row 9 is the other. Every motif sits on point, with its tips pointing up, down, left, and right.
Joining
Join the motifs as you go on Rnd 5. The stitch counts stay the same: every arc still has 22 sc, and every peak and tip still counts as 1 working point.
Tip to tip: Each motif’s right tip joins the left tip of the motif to its right. Each bottom tip joins the top tip of the motif below. Work a tip join in place of the ch 2.
Peak to peak: Where four motifs meet, their four facing arcs curve toward the same gap. The first motif to reach that gap makes a normal ch-1 peak, and every later motif works a peak join into that same ch-1. This draws the four arcs together and creates the rounded petal openings of the lattice. Along the outer edges, only two arcs meet at each peak.
Worked example, Motif 5: Its top tip joins Motif 2’s bottom tip, and its left tip joins Motif 4’s right tip. Its up-left arc peak joins the gap shared by Motifs 1, 2, and 4. Its up-right arc peak joins the gap shared with Motifs 2 and 3. Its two lower arcs stay free until Row 3 is added.
Order for each new motif: Start Rnd 5 on a free arc wherever possible. When you reach an arc that faces an existing motif, work 11 sc, peak join, 11 sc. At a tip that faces an existing motif, work a tip join. Keep each peak exactly at the center of its arc, after the 11th sc, so the lattice stays square.
Tension: Work the joins at the same tension as your sc. A tight sl st pulls the arcs out of shape, and a loose one leaves gaps. The joined points should lie flat without puckering.
Size checkpoint: After Row 3, the piece should measure 15 x 15 in (38.1 x 38.1 cm) tip to tip. After all 9 rows, it should measure 15 x 45 in (38.1 x 114.3 cm).
Border
Border gauge: Working 1 sc in each sc and 3 sc in each tip adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on each side.
Each edge motif shows 11 sc + 1 tip + 11 sc along the side. The starting counts per side are:
- Long sides: 9 motifs x (22 sc + 1 tip) = 198 sc + 9 tips
- Short sides: 3 motifs x (22 sc + 1 tip) = 66 sc + 3 tips
At each of the 4 runner corners, one arc has a free ch-1 peak with no neighbor. These corner peaks sit between the sides and are not part of any side.
Rnd 1: Join yarn in any corner peak of the runner. Ch 1, (sc, ch 2, sc) in the same peak. Along each side, work sc in each sc and 3 sc in each tip. At each joined peak between two edge motifs, work no stitch and go straight to the first sc of the next motif’s arc. At each runner corner, work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the corner peak. Continue around, then sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
Counts for Rnd 1:
- Each long side: 198 sc (1 per existing sc) + 27 sc (3 in each of 9 tips) = 225 sc
- Each short side: 66 sc (1 per existing sc) + 9 sc (3 in each of 3 tips) = 75 sc
- Corners: 2 sc + ch-2 sp in each of 4 corner peaks = 8 sc
- Total: 225 + 225 + 75 + 75 + 8 = 608 sc
Why the math works: Each motif contributes exactly 25 sc per side (22 + 3), so 9 x 25 = 225 and 3 x 25 = 75. Because no stitches are added at the seams, the border stays in step with the motifs. The 3 sc at each tip turn the point without cupping, and the corner peaks are counted once, outside the sides.
Tassels (make 6): Wrap yarn 30 times around the 6 in (15.2 cm) side of the card. Tie the top with a 10 in (25.4 cm) strand and cut the loops at the bottom. Wrap a second strand around the bundle 0.75 in (1.9 cm) below the top and knot it firmly. Trim the tassel to 4 in (10.2 cm).
Attach one tassel to the center sc of the outer tip of each motif in Row 1 and Row 9, so each short end has 3 tassels. Tie the tassels on with their top strands and hide the tails inside the tassel head.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along the back of the sc arcs.
- Soak the runner in cool water for 10 minutes, then roll it in a towel to press out the water. Do not wring it.
- Lay it flat on blocking mats, right side up.
- Pin the outer corners first, to 15.5 x 45.5 in (39.4 x 115.6 cm).
- Pin each solid diamond, lining up the tips in straight columns and rows.
- Shape each arc into an even curve with its peak centered.
- Comb and trim the tassels so they hang straight.
- Let the runner dry completely before you unpin it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- 27 motifs, each with 36 sc on Rnd 3 and 88 sc on Rnd 5
- Every arc has 11 sc on each side of its peak
- All tips and peaks are joined, with no loose points inside the lattice
- Long sides have 225 sc and short sides 75 sc, plus 8 corner sc
- The runner measures 15.5 x 45.5 in (39.4 x 115.6 cm)
- 3 tassels on each short end, each 4 in (10.2 cm) long
- All ends secured and invisible from the front
Troubleshooting
- The square cups: Your dc are too tight. Go up 0.5 mm or loosen the corner chains.
- The square ruffles: Go down 0.5 mm.
- An arc twists: The ch-18 loop was twisted. Check that it isn’t rotated before you start Rnd 5.
- The arcs are too floppy: Tighten the chains slightly, or go down 0.5 mm for Rnds 4–5 only and keep 22 sc per arc.
- The lattice skews: A peak is off-center. Check that each arc has exactly 11 sc on each side of its peak.
- The border ripples: Stitches were added at a seam. Work no stitch at the joined peaks.
- The tassels are uneven: Trim them again after blocking, once the strands are straight.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, and dry flat while reshaping the arcs. Don’t tumble dry, because it can distort the joins.
Final Notes
The measurements build in a simple chain. A 3 in (7.6 cm) square becomes a 5 in (12.7 cm) motif. A grid of 3 x 9 motifs makes 15 x 45 in (38.1 x 114.3 cm), and the border brings the runner to 15.5 x 45.5 in (39.4 x 115.6 cm). Get the first motif right and keep every peak centered, and the lattice will line up from end to end.
Happy crocheting!