This lavender bag holder gives you somewhere tidy to keep plastic grocery bags. You stuff bags in through the wide top and pull them out one at a time through the small round opening at the bottom. A strap loop at the top hangs it from a wall hook, a door knob or a pantry peg.
The look comes from staggered rows of round popcorn bobbles in soft lavender, framed by a smooth, tapered base and a plain band at the top. It’s made in one color, with no color changes and no sewing of separate parts.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 7 in (17.8 cm) wide when flattened and 10.75 in (27.3 cm) tall in the body. The hanging loop rises another 5 in (12.7 cm), so the total height is about 15.75 in (40.0 cm).
You work from the bottom up in joined rounds. First you make a foundation-chain ring that becomes the dispensing opening. Next you increase to the full width, work the popcorn body, decrease slightly for the top band and add a slip stitch rim. Last, you work the handle strap straight off the rim and finish the bottom opening with one edging round.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 7 in (17.8 cm) wide flattened × 10.75 in (27.3 cm) tall body; 15.75 in (40.0 cm) including the loop
- Skill level: Easy–Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Medium / worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 (worked seamlessly in the round)
- Layout: single tube with an open top, a small bottom opening and an attached strap loop
- Piece size before border: 10.5 in (26.7 cm) tall body
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) at the bottom opening; the top rim is a flat slip stitch round that adds no measurable height
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight yarn. Acrylic is the easiest to wash, and cotton or a cotton blend gives crisper bobbles and holds its shape well under the weight of the bags. Avoid fuzzy or very splitty yarns, because they hide the popcorn texture.
- Lavender: 150 g, about 270 m (295 yd)
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- 1 locking stitch marker
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Spray bottle and pins for blocking
The yarn quantity includes a margin of about 15%. Popcorn stitches use much more yarn than plain stitches, so don’t cut it close.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rnd(s): round(s)
- inc: 2 sc in the same st
- pc: popcorn (see below)
Special stitch – Popcorn (pc): Work 5 dc in the same st. Remove the hook from the loop. Insert the hook from front to back into the top of the first dc of the group. Pick up the dropped loop and pull it through. Ch 1 to close. A pc counts as 1 st, and its closing ch is not counted as a separate stitch.
Because you insert the hook from front to back, the popcorn bulges toward you. Working with the right side facing is what puts every bobble on the outside of the tube.
Gauge and Checkpoints
- Plain sc in the round: 14 sts and 16 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Popcorn pattern: 12 rnds (6 popcorn rnds plus 6 sc rnds) = 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
Test first. Work Rnds 1–5 as written and then check the measurements. This bottom section is your gauge swatch, so nothing is wasted.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 1: the ring lies flat and the opening is about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) across.
- After Rnd 5: the tube measures about 6.75 in (17.1 cm) flattened, a circumference of about 13.75 in (34.9 cm). Height from the foundation is about 1.25 in (3.2 cm).
- After Rnd 13: total height is about 4 in (10.2 cm).
- After Rnd 29: total height is about 9.25 in (23.5 cm), and the width with bobbles is about 7 in (17.8 cm) flattened.
- After Rnd 34: body height is 10.5 in (26.7 cm), and the top band measures about 6 in (15.2 cm) flattened.
If your piece is too big: go down one hook size (to 4.5 mm). If it’s too small: go up one size (to 5.5 mm). A height difference of up to 0.5 in (1.3 cm) is fine for a bag holder. If you’re short on height, add one more pair of pattern rounds instead of changing the hook mid-project.
Pattern
Join every round with a sl st to the first st, then ch 1. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch. Place a marker in the first st of each round and move it up as you go.
Bottom Opening and Base
Foundation: Ch 20. Join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring, making sure the chain isn’t twisted.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join. (20 sts)
Rnd 2 (increase): Ch 1, sc in next st, inc in next st; repeat from * 9 more times, join. (30 sts)
Rnd 3 (increase): Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, inc in next st; repeat from * 9 more times, join. (40 sts)
Rnd 4 (increase): Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, inc in next st; repeat from * 7 more times, join. (48 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48 sts)
Increasing gradually over three rounds makes the base slope gently outward instead of lying flat. That slope is what gives the holder its tapered bottom.
Popcorn Body
The body alternates popcorn rounds with plain sc rounds. There are two popcorn rounds, A and B. Round B shifts the bobbles 2 sts to the left of Round A, so the bobbles stagger in a diagonal, brick-like grid.
Rnd 6 (Popcorn Rnd A): Ch 1, pc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; repeat from * 11 more times, join to the top of the first pc. (48 sts: 12 pc + 36 sc)
Rnd 7 (sc rnd): Ch 1, sc in each st around, working 1 sc into the top of each pc (not into its closing ch), join. (48 sts)
Rnd 8 (Popcorn Rnd B): Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, pc in next st, sc in next st; repeat from * 11 more times, join. (48 sts: 12 pc + 36 sc)
Rnd 9 (sc rnd): Repeat Rnd 7. (48 sts)
Rnds 10–29: Repeat Rnds 6–9 five more times. (48 sts in every rnd)
You now have 12 popcorn rounds: Round A on Rnds 6, 10, 14, 18, 22 and 26, and Round B on Rnds 8, 12, 16, 20, 24 and 28. That gives 144 popcorns in total (12 rounds × 12 popcorns).
On each popcorn round, push every finished bobble outward with a fingertip before working the next sc. This keeps the bobbles evenly rounded.
Top Band
Rnd 30 (decrease): Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * 5 more times, join. (42 sts)
The count checks out: 6 repeats × 7 sts = 42, worked over 6 × 8 = 48 existing sts.
Rnds 31–34: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (42 sts)
The slight decrease draws the top in a little, so the band sits neatly above the bobbles and the bags don’t spill out over the rim.
Don’t fasten off. Continue with the top rim.
Border
The border has two parts: a slip stitch rim at the top, with the handle strap worked from it, and a single sc edging round around the bottom opening.
Border gauge: Same as the body, 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). Work the slip stitches loosely enough that they don’t pull the top in.
For the “per side” counts below, flatten the tube with the round’s first stitch at the left fold. Each flattened side is one half of the round.
Top Rim
Rim Rnd: Ch 1, sl st loosely in each st around, join to the first sl st. (42 sl sts: 21 per side)
Hanging Strap
Stitch 1 of the rim sits at one side fold, and stitch 22 sits exactly opposite it at the other fold. Fold the tube to check that these two stitches line up at the sides.
Strap Row 1: Ch 40. Without twisting the chain, carry it across the top opening and sl st into st 22 of the rim. (40 ch)
Strap Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each of the 40 ch, then sl st into st 1 of the rim. (40 sc)
Strap Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each of the 40 sc, then sl st into st 22 of the rim. (40 sc) Fasten off and weave in the end.
The strap is about 11.5 in (29.2 cm) long and 0.6 in (1.5 cm) wide. When you hang the holder, the strap forms a loop that rises about 5 in (12.7 cm) above the rim.
Bottom Opening Edging
Turn the holder upside down. Join yarn with a sl st in any remaining loop on the underside of the foundation chain.
Edging Rnd: Ch 1, sc in each foundation ch loop around, join. (20 sc: 10 per side) Fasten off and weave in the end.
Why the math works: the rim has one stitch for each of the 42 stitches of Rnd 34, so the top keeps its 6 in (15.2 cm) flattened width. The bottom edging has one stitch for each of the 20 foundation chains, so the opening stays at 1.75 in (4.4 cm) across.
Anchoring the strap at stitches 1 and 22 leaves exactly 21 rim stitches on each side. The loop is therefore centered, and the holder hangs straight instead of tilting forward.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends on the inside of the tube, splitting the yarn plies so the ends can’t work loose.
- Stuff the holder firmly with plastic bags or a rolled towel, so it holds its finished tube shape.
- Mist it evenly with water until it’s damp but not soaked. For acrylic, a light steam held 1 in (2.5 cm) above the fabric also works. Don’t press the bobbles.
- Shape the body so it’s 7 in (17.8 cm) wide flattened and 10.75 in (27.3 cm) tall. Line the column of joining seams up with one side fold.
- Gently pinch each popcorn round and even.
- Hang it by the strap, or lay it on its side, and leave it until completely dry.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- All 144 popcorns bulge to the outside.
- Popcorns are staggered: each one sits halfway between the two below it.
- Every round in Rnds 5–29 has 48 sts, and Rnds 30–34 have 42 sts.
- The bottom opening measures about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) and is edged with 20 sc.
- The rim lies flat without flaring or pulling in.
- The strap is attached at sts 1 and 22, directly opposite each other.
- The strap isn’t twisted.
- The body measures 10.75 in (27.3 cm) tall and 7 in (17.8 cm) wide flattened.
- All ends are woven in on the inside.
Troubleshooting
Bobbles are popping to the inside: you may have closed the popcorn by inserting the hook from back to front. Insert from front to back, and make sure the right side is facing you.
Bobbles line up in vertical columns instead of staggering: check that Popcorn Rnd B starts with “sc in next 2 sts” before the first pc.
Stitch count drifts in a popcorn round: a pc counts as one stitch. In the following sc round, work into the top of the pc, not into its closing chain.
Body is flaring or cone-shaped: your popcorn rounds are looser than your sc rounds. Work the 5 dc of each popcorn a little more snugly.
Bottom opening is too tight for bags to pass: start with a looser foundation chain, or use a hook one size larger for the chain only.
Top edge ruffles: the slip stitches are too loose or extra stitches have crept in. The rim must have exactly 42.
Holder hangs crooked: count the rim stitches between the strap ends. There should be 21 on each side.
Care
Machine wash acrylic versions on a gentle cycle in a laundry bag, and reshape while damp. Hand wash cotton versions and lay them flat or hang them to dry. Never tumble dry, since heat can flatten the popcorns.
Final Notes
Each stage sets up the next:
- A 20-chain ring gives a 1.75 in (4.4 cm) opening.
- Three increase rounds take it to 48 sts, 6.75 in (17.1 cm) flattened, by Rnd 5.
- Twelve staggered popcorn rounds and their sc rounds build the body to 9.25 in (23.5 cm) tall and 7 in (17.8 cm) wide.
- One decrease round to 42 sts and four plain rounds finish the 10.5 in (26.7 cm) body.
- The rim and bottom edging bring it to 10.75 in (27.3 cm).
- The 40-stitch strap, anchored at opposite folds, adds a 5 in (12.7 cm) hanging loop.
Check your measurements at each checkpoint and the finished holder will come out at the right size.
Happy crocheting!