This Peach Orchard Bag Holder is a tall, open-mesh tube for storing plastic grocery bags. It has a solid rounded base, a dispensing slot near the bottom, a solid top band, and a long strap handle so you can hang it from a cabinet knob or hook. You stuff bags in at the top and pull them out one at a time through the slot.
The body is a soft pistachio green. On the front are three small peach appliqués, each with a pair of dark green leaves: one peach sits alone near the top, and two peaches sit side by side lower down. The filet-style grid keeps the holder light and lets you see when it’s running low, and the peaches give it a cheerful farmhouse-kitchen look.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Laid flat, the finished body measures 6 in (15.2 cm) wide by 15 in (38.1 cm) tall. The handle rises about 5 in (12.7 cm) above the top edge.
Construction is simple. You work the body from the bottom up in one continuous piece: a flat single crochet base, a short solid wall with a turned-row gap that forms the dispensing slot, 18 rounds of double crochet mesh, and a solid single crochet top band. The handle is a separate oval strip that you sew inside the band. You make the peaches and leaves separately and sew them to the front.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size (body, flat): 6 in (15.2 cm) wide x 15 in (38.1 cm) tall
- Circumference: 12 in (30.5 cm)
- Skill level: Advanced beginner
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hooks: 4.5 mm (US 7) for body and handle; 3.5 mm (US E-4) for appliqués
- Number of pieces: 1 body, 1 handle, 3 peaches, 3 leaf pairs
- Layout: One tubular body with appliqués sewn to the front
- Body section heights: base and solid wall 4 in (10.2 cm), mesh 9 in (22.9 cm), top band 2 in (5.1 cm)
- Size before top band: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide x 13 in (33.0 cm) tall
- Top band depth: 2 in (5.1 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth, firm cotton. It holds the mesh squares open, takes the weight of a full load of bags, and washes well. Acrylic will work, but it stretches more under weight.
- Pistachio green (main color, MC): 120 g, about 204 m
- Soft peach (CC1): 10 g, about 17 m
- Dark leaf green (CC2): 5 g, about 9 m
These quantities include a safety margin of about 15 percent.
Tools:
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- 3.5 mm (US E-4) crochet hook
- Stitch markers (at least 3)
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins
- Small pinch of fiberfill (optional, for puffier peaches)
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- MR – magic ring
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
Special stitch – mesh square: a mesh square is (dc, ch 2), worked so that each dc sits on top of the dc below it. One mesh square takes up 3 sts of width.
Gauge and Checkpoints
With the 4.5 mm hook: 16 sc and 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm), which is 4 sts per inch. In mesh: 4 mesh squares (12 sts) = 3 in (7.6 cm) wide, and 2 mesh rnds = 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
Before you start the body, make one peach and one leaf pair as a test piece. They are quick to make and show you how tightly you work. Then crochet a 4 in (10.2 cm) sc swatch for the body.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 8: the base lies flat and measures about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across.
- After Rnd 18: the piece is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall when flattened, measured from the bottom fold.
- After Rnd 36: the piece is 13 in (33.0 cm) tall and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat.
- After Rnd 46: the piece is 15 in (38.1 cm) tall.
If the base is wider than 3.75 in (9.5 cm) or the body is wider than 6.25 in (15.9 cm) flat, go down half a hook size. If it is narrower than 5.75 in (14.6 cm), go up half a size. If the base ruffles, your rows are shorter than the gauge, so try a hook half a size larger. If the base cups, try a hook half a size smaller.
Body
Work with MC and the 4.5 mm hook. Work in continuous joined rounds: join each round with a sl st to the first st, and start each round with ch 1, which does not count as a stitch. Place a marker in the first st of every round.
Base
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc 6 times, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc 6 times, join. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc 6 times, join. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc 6 times, join. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc 6 times, join. (42 sts)
Rnd 8: Sc 6, inc 6 times, join. (48 sts)
Checkpoint: the base should lie flat and measure about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across.
Solid Wall
Rnds 9–10: Sc in each st around, join. (48 sts)
The base now begins to turn upward.
Dispensing Slot
Now you’ll work in turned rows over 36 sts and leave 12 sts unworked. The gap becomes the slot. The 12 unworked sts are the center front of the holder.
Row 11: Ch 1, sc in the same st as the join and in each of the next 35 sts, turn. (36 sts; 12 sts left unworked)
Rows 12–16: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (36 sts)
You have now worked 6 rows, which makes a slot about 1.3 in (3.3 cm) tall and 3 in (7.6 cm) wide.
Rnd 17 (rejoin): Ch 1, sc in each of the 36 sts, ch 12, sl st to the first sc. (36 sc + 12 ch = 48 sts)
Rnd 18: Ch 1, sc in each sc and in each ch, join. (48 sts)
Checkpoint: the piece is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall from the bottom fold, with the slot centered on the front.
Mesh
Rnd 19 (conversion to mesh): Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), sk 2 sts, dc in next st, ch 2, sk 2 sts 15 times, sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-5. (16 dc + 16 ch-2 sps = 48 sts; 16 mesh squares)
Rnds 20–36: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), dc in next dc, ch 2 15 times, sl st in 3rd ch of beginning ch-5. (16 mesh squares)
Stack each dc directly on the dc below it, so the columns stay straight and the windows come out square. Each side of the flattened tube shows 8 mesh squares across.
Checkpoint: 18 mesh rounds = 9 in (22.9 cm). The piece is now 13 in (33.0 cm) tall and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat.
Continue directly into the top band in the next section.
Handle
Work with MC and the 4.5 mm hook. The handle is an oval strip worked around both sides of a foundation chain, which gives it rounded ends.
Ch 61.
Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each of the next 58 ch, 3 sc in the last ch. Rotate and work along the other side of the chain: sc in each of the next 58 ch, 2 sc in the same ch as the first sc, join. (1 + 58 + 3 + 58 + 2 = 122 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, inc in each of the first 2 sts, sc 58, inc in each of the next 3 sts, sc 58, inc in the last st, join. (128 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 20 in (50.8 cm) tail for sewing.
Checkpoint: the handle measures 15 in (38.1 cm) long and about 1 in (2.5 cm) wide.
Peaches (make 3)
Work with CC1 and the 3.5 mm hook.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR, join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around, join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc 6 times, join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4 (edge and tip): Sl st in each of the next 8 sts. In the next st, work (hdc, ch 2, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, hdc) to form the small point at the bottom of the peach. Sl st in each of the remaining 9 sts. (8 + 1 + 9 = 18 sts worked)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The bumpy sc side is the right side. Checkpoint: each peach is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across.
Leaf Pairs (make 3)
Work with CC2 and the 3.5 mm hook. Each pair is made in one piece: two pointed leaves that share a base.
Leaf 1: Ch 6. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, then work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the last ch for the tip. Working along the other side of the chain: hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, hdc in next ch, sc in next ch, sl st in the first sc. (10 sts + ch-2 tip)
Leaf 2: Ch 6 and repeat the Leaf 1 instructions, ending with a sl st in the base of Leaf 1.
Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. Each leaf is about 1 in (2.5 cm) long. Weave in the starting tail.
Top Band and Slot Edging
Border Gauge
The border is worked in sc on the 4.5 mm hook at the main gauge of 4 sts per inch and 4.5 rnds per inch.
Rnd 37 (conversion trim): Ch 1, sc in each dc and 2 sc in each ch-2 sp, join. (16 sc worked 1-per-dc + 32 sc worked into 16 spaces = 48 sts; 24 sts per side when flattened)
Rnds 38–45: Sc in each st around, join. (48 sts)
Rnd 46: Sl st in each st around. (48 sl sts)
Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Slot Edging
Join MC at the bottom-right corner of the slot.
Edging Rnd: Ch 1, sc 12 along the unworked sts at the bottom of the slot, sc 6 evenly up the row ends on the left, sc 12 along the underside of the ch-12, sc 6 evenly down the row ends on the right, join. (12 + 6 + 12 + 6 = 36 sts)
Fasten off and weave in the ends. The edging softens the corners, so the slot becomes a rounded oval.
Why the Math Works
Every stage of the body keeps 48 sts. In the mesh, 16 dc plus 16 ch-2 spaces adds up to 16 + 32 = 48 sts, and the conversion round puts back exactly 1 sc per dc and 2 sc per space. At 4 sts per inch, 48 sts gives a 12 in (30.5 cm) circumference, or 6 in (15.2 cm) flat with 24 sts per side. Nine sc rounds at 4.5 rnds per inch make a 2 in (5.1 cm) band.
Assembly
- Handle: Flatten the body so the slot is centered on the front. Pin one handle end inside the band at each side fold, 1.5 in (3.8 cm) deep. Whipstitch around each end through the band only. About 12 in (30.5 cm) of strap stays free and forms a loop roughly 5 in (12.7 cm) tall.
- Single peach: Center it over Rnds 30–32, offset one mesh square left of center front. Sew around its edge to the dc posts and chains behind it. Add a pinch of fiberfill before you close the stitching if you want it puffy.
- Peach pair: Place two peaches side by side over Rnds 24–26, right of center, so their edges just touch. Sew them on the same way.
- Leaves: Sew one leaf pair above each peach, with the leaves angled up and outward in a V.
Final Blocking
- Wet the body thoroughly in cool water, then gently squeeze out the water. Do not wring it.
- Roll it in a towel to remove the excess water.
- Slide a 6 in (15.2 cm) wide cardboard form, or a rolled towel, inside the tube.
- Square the mesh windows with your fingers and keep the dc columns vertical.
- Pin the top band so it measures 2 in (5.1 cm) deep, and shape the slot into an even oval.
- Leave the piece to dry completely. Then press the peaches lightly from the back with a warm iron and a cloth between them.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The body measures 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 15 in (38.1 cm) tall flat.
- Every mesh round has 16 squares, and the columns line up.
- The slot is centered on the front, 3 in (7.6 cm) wide, with 36 edging sts.
- The top band has 48 sts in every round and no gaps.
- The handle ends are secure and level, and the strap isn’t twisted.
- All 3 peaches have a visible bottom tip and sit flat. All leaves point upward.
- All ends are woven in on the inside.
Troubleshooting
- Mesh slants into a spiral: You are working into the ch-2 space instead of the dc. Work each dc into the top of the dc below it.
- Body flares at the top: Your mesh is looser than your sc. Go down half a size for Rnds 19–36.
- Slot gapes or sags: Make sure Row 11 and Rnd 17 use exactly 36 sc and 12 ch, then work the edging snugly.
- Peach curls: Your sl sts in Rnd 4 are too tight. Loosen them or work them with a larger hook.
- Handle stretches: Use cotton yarn, and work Rnd 2 firmly.
Care
Hand wash or machine wash on a gentle cool cycle inside a mesh laundry bag. Reshape and lay flat to dry.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is: a 4 in (10.2 cm) base and wall, plus 9 in (22.9 cm) of mesh, plus a 2 in (5.1 cm) band, for 15 in (38.1 cm) total. The 48-st count holds throughout, giving 6 in (15.2 cm) of width flat. Check your gauge first, measure at each checkpoint, and the holder will come out right.
Happy crocheting!