This set gives you two round hanging baskets in a dusty raspberry-rose cotton. Each one has a solid base, a band of five-petal daisy fans, and a row of open arched windows under a neat rolled rim. Flat straps loop over a wooden dowel, so both baskets hang side by side on the wall.
The style is cottage-style with a little lace, but the baskets are firm enough to hold toilet paper rolls, hand towels, or small toiletries. Using one color keeps the texture in focus.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. Each basket is 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. Each finished strap is 2 in (5.1 cm) wide and 14.5 in (36.8 cm) long.
You start each basket as a flat disc. Then you turn the wall up through the back loops, work the daisy and window bands, and stop below the rim. Next you make the straps, sew them on, and finish the rim with reverse single crochet.
Finished Size and Construction
- Basket size: 5.75 in (14.6 cm) diameter × 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
- Strap size: 2 in × 14.5 in (5.1 cm × 36.8 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate (clusters, working into chain loops, reverse sc)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: #4 worsted, 100% cotton
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 4 (2 baskets, 2 straps)
- Layout: 2 baskets side by side, each hanging from 1 strap over a 16 in (40.6 cm) dowel
- Wall circumference: 72 sts = 18 in (45.7 cm)
- Height before rim (border): 3.75 in (9.5 cm)
- Rim depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm), 1 round
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or a cotton blend. Cotton keeps the walls upright and makes the clusters stand out clearly. Acrylic will work, but the basket will be softer and may slump.
- Dusty raspberry-rose: 200 g, about 312 m (341 yd), which is 4 balls of 50 g / 78 m (85 yd)
- Each basket uses about 45 g (70 m)
- Each strap uses about 12 g (19 m)
These amounts include a safety margin of about 85 g (134 m) above the 115 g (178 m) the set actually uses. That covers gauge swatches and any frogging.
Tools and hardware:
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- 1 stitch marker
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors and a flexible tape measure
- 1 wooden dowel, 16 in (40.6 cm) long and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) thick, with end knobs
- 2 brass wall hooks, with screws and wall anchors
- Spray bottle and two 5.75 in (14.6 cm) wide jars or cans for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- MR – magic ring
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch): work sc from left to right (right to left if you crochet left-handed)
Special stitches:
- Cluster (cl): (Yo, insert hook in the given st, yo, pull up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops) twice in the same st, then yo and pull through all 3 loops on the hook.
- Daisy fan: In the same st, work (cl, ch 1) 4 times, then cl. That gives 5 clusters and 4 ch-1 sps, and the 3rd cluster is the center petal.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc × 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm), worked firmly in rounds.
Before making both baskets, make a test base through Round 6 and measure it.
- After Round 6: 36 sts, 3 in (7.6 cm) across
- After Round 12: 72 sts, 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across
- After Round 19: wall is 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall, measured from the turning ridge
- After Round 22: wall is 3 in (7.6 cm) tall
- After Round 25: wall is 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall
- After rim: wall is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
Too big? Go down 0.5 mm in hook size. Loose stitches will also make the walls floppy.
Too small? Go up 0.5 mm in hook size. Don’t add stitches, because the daisy band needs a multiple of 6.
Basket (Make 2)
Work in joined rounds: join with a sl st to the first st, then ch 1 (the ch 1 does not count as a st). Put a marker in the first st of each round.
Base
Round 1: 6 sc in MR, join. (6)
Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) 6 times. (18)
Round 4: Sc 1, inc, (sc 2, inc) 5 times, sc 1. (24)
Round 5: (Sc 3, inc) 6 times. (30)
Round 6: Sc 2, inc, (sc 4, inc) 5 times, sc 2. (36)
Checkpoint: 3 in (7.6 cm) across.
Round 7: (Sc 5, inc) 6 times. (42)
Round 8: Sc 3, inc, (sc 6, inc) 5 times, sc 3. (48)
Round 9: (Sc 7, inc) 6 times. (54)
Round 10: Sc 4, inc, (sc 8, inc) 5 times, sc 4. (60)
Round 11: (Sc 9, inc) 6 times. (66)
Round 12: Sc 5, inc, (sc 10, inc) 5 times, sc 5. (72)
Checkpoint: 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across, lying flat. Shifting the increases on every other round keeps the disc round instead of hexagonal.
Lower Wall
Round 13 (turning ridge): Sc in BLO of each st around. (72)
The unused front loops make a crisp ridge, and the wall begins to stand up.
Rounds 14–19: Sc in each st around. (72)
Checkpoint: 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall, from ridge to top.
Daisy Band
Round 20: Ch 1, sc in first st, sk 2 sts, daisy fan in next st, sk 2 sts. Sc in next st, sk 2 sts, daisy fan in next st, sk 2 sts; repeat from * 10 more times. Join to first sc.
(12 sc and 12 fans = 60 clusters and 48 ch-1 sps. Each repeat uses 6 base sts, and 12 × 6 = 72.)
Window Band
Round 21: Sl st in the first cl, the next ch-1 sp, the 2nd cl, the next ch-1 sp, and the 3rd (center) cl. Ch 1, sc in the same center cl. Ch 6, sc in center cl of next fan; repeat from * 10 more times, ch 6, join to first sc.
(12 sc and 12 ch-6 loops.)
Each ch-6 loop bridges two fans. Under it, the outer petals slope down to the Round 20 sc and frame a rounded open window.
Round 22 (conversion round): Ch 1. Sc in next sc, 5 sc in next ch-6 loop; repeat from * 11 more times, join.
(12 sc worked 1-per-sc + 60 sc worked into the loops = 72.)
Checkpoint: 3 in (7.6 cm) tall, and the circumference is back to 18 in (45.7 cm).
Upper Wall
Rounds 23–25: Sc in each st around. (72)
Checkpoint: 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall. Fasten off and leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail. The rim round comes later, after you sew on the strap.
Strap (Make 2)
Work in turned rows. Ch 1 at the start of each row (it does not count as a st).
Row 1: Ch 7, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (6)
Row 2: Sc across. (6)
Row 3 (eyelet): Sc 2, ch 2, sk 2, sc 2. (4 sc, 1 ch-2 sp)
Row 4: Sc 2, 2 sc in ch-2 sp, sc 2. (6)
Rows 5–56: Sc across. (6)
Checkpoint: 1.5 in × 14 in (3.8 cm × 35.6 cm). Don’t fasten off.
Edging round: Ch 1, rotate, and work down the long edge. Make 1 sc in each of the 56 row-ends. Then on the Row 1 edge, work 3 sc in the first st, sc in the next 4 sts, and 3 sc in the last st. Work 1 sc in each of the 56 row-ends on the second long edge. On the Row 56 edge, work 3 sc in the first st, sc in the next 4 sts, and 3 sc in the last st. Join and fasten off.
(Long sides: 56 + 56. Short sides: 6 + 6, worked 1-per-st = 124, + 8 extra corner sts = 132.)
Each short side ends up with 10 sts, corners included. The extra corner sts soften the ends into a slight curve. Finished strap: 2 in × 14.5 in (5.1 cm × 36.8 cm). The eyelet sits about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) from the Row 1 end.
Make All Pieces
- Baskets: 2, in raspberry-rose, worked through Round 25
- Straps: 2, in raspberry-rose, with edging
Layout on the wall:
[hook]========= dowel 16 in (40.6 cm) =========[hook]
[Strap A] [Strap B]
+-------------+ 0.5 in +-------------+
| Basket A | (1.3 cm)| Basket B |
| 5.75 in dia | gap | 5.75 in dia |
+-------------+ +-------------+
Lightly mist the straps and press them flat before joining.
Joining
Place the strap’s center on the back of the basket, halfway between two daisy fans. The strap is 2 in (5.1 cm) wide, which covers 8 wall sts.
- Lay the Row 56 end (plain end) against the outside back wall. Overlap 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of strap, so the strap’s end edge lines up with the top of Round 25.
- Whipstitch down both long edges and across the bottom edge. Along the long edges, make a stitch every 0.25 in (0.6 cm), which is 6 stitches per edge. Across the bottom, catch 1 strap edging st for each of the 8 wall sts.
- Fold the strap up and over the dowel. Bring the eyelet end down on top of the first layer, overlap the same 1.5 in (3.8 cm), and whipstitch through both layers and the wall. The eyelet stays visible on the back as a small accent.
That leaves a free loop of 11.5 in (29.2 cm). Once it wraps the dowel, the loop stands about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) above the rim.
Tension: Pull each whipstitch snug, but not so tight that it puckers the wall. If the wall dents inward, loosen the stitches.
Checkpoint: The basket should hang level, and the top edge should sit 5.5 in (14.0 cm) below the dowel.
Border: Rolled Rim
Border gauge: Rev sc matches sc, 4 sts = 1 in (2.5 cm).
Join yarn at the side of the basket, away from the strap.
Round 26: Ch 1, rev sc in each st of Round 25 around, going over the top edge where the strap sits. Join, fasten off. (72)
If you split the round into four quarters, each one has 18 sts (4 × 18 = 72).
Why it works: The rim keeps the 1-to-1 count from Round 25, so the circumference stays 18 in (45.7 cm). It doesn’t flare or pull in, and the rolled rev sc adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm). That brings the wall to exactly 4 in (10.2 cm). Working the rim after the strap covers its top edges in one neat line.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends, running them through the solid sc rounds.
- Mist each basket until it’s damp but not soaked.
- Slide each basket over a 5.75 in (14.6 cm) jar, upside down.
- Pull the walls down evenly so the turning ridge sits right on the jar’s edge.
- Open each window with your fingertips, and spread the 5 petals of every fan evenly.
- Pin the strap loops flat so they keep their 2 in (5.1 cm) width.
- Let everything dry completely, which takes about 24 hours.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Both bases measure 5.75 in (14.6 cm) and lie flat.
- Each wall round has 72 sts, and each basket has 12 daisy fans.
- All 12 windows are open and the same size.
- Both walls are 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
- The straps are the same length, and the eyelets line up.
- The strap seams are firm and not puckered.
- The rim has no gaps or doubled sts.
- The two baskets hang at the same height.
Troubleshooting
- The base cups or ruffles: Cupping means you’re crocheting too tightly, and ruffling means too loosely. Check your gauge at Round 6.
- The wall flares out: Your hook is too big. Rework from Round 13 with a 4 mm hook.
- Fans are crowded: Make sure you skipped 2 sts on each side of every fan.
- Windows sag: Ch 5 instead of ch 6 in Round 21, and still work 5 sc per loop.
- Round 22 isn’t 72 sts: Count 5 sc in each loop and 1 sc on each sc.
- Basket tilts: Recenter the strap at the back between fans and resew it.
Care
Hand-wash in cool water, press out the water in a towel, and reshape over a jar to dry. Don’t tumble dry.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. A 3 in (7.6 cm) Round 6 leads to a 5.75 in (14.6 cm) base with 72 sts. That gives an 18 in (45.7 cm) wall: 1.75 in (4.4 cm) of solid sc, then 3 in (7.6 cm) after the daisy and window bands, and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) before the rim. The 0.25 in (0.6 cm) rev sc rim finishes the wall at 4 in (10.2 cm). A 14.5 in (36.8 cm) strap with two 1.5 in (3.8 cm) overlaps hangs each basket 5.5 in (14.0 cm) below the dowel. If your test base matches at Round 6, everything after it will line up.
Happy crocheting!