This hanging basket pairs warm terracotta cotton with a classic filet checkerboard. Solid double-crochet blocks alternate with small open windows, so the walls look woven and the light shows through. A firm single-crochet base and a rounded rope-like rim hold the shape, and two straps with wooden rings hang it from a simple dowel rod.
The whole design uses one color, a rust or terracotta worsted-weight cotton, set off by natural wood hardware. It works well in a bathroom for spare toilet rolls, beside a desk, or in an entryway for small items.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished basket measures about 14.3 in (36.3 cm) long, 4.7 in (11.9 cm) deep and 4.6 in (11.7 cm) tall.
Construction is simple. You crochet an oval base in joined rounds, turn up the walls with a back-loop round, and work the checkerboard in filet rounds. Then you finish with a single-crochet and reverse-single-crochet rim. Finally you make two straps and two short ring tabs and sew them to the back rim.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 14.3 in (36.3 cm) long × 4.7 in (11.9 cm) deep × 4.6 in (11.7 cm) tall
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 5 (1 basket body, 2 hanging straps, 2 ring tabs)
- Layout: Basket body with 2 strap assemblies on the back straight side
- Piece size: Body as above; strap 1.6 × 8.9 in (4.1 × 22.6 cm); tab 1.6 × 3.3 in (4.1 × 8.4 cm)
- Size before border: 3.9 in (9.9 cm) tall, 132 stitches around
- Border depth: 0.7 in (1.8 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth, firm worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps its stitch definition, holds its shape and stands up to a damp bathroom better than acrylic. Avoid very soft or loosely plied yarns, because the walls will sag.
- Terracotta / rust: 200 g, about 360 m (394 yd)
These quantities include a safety margin of about 15 percent. The basket itself uses roughly 170 g.
Tools and hardware:
- 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
- 6 stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors and measuring tape
- 2 wooden rings, 2 in (5.1 cm) outer diameter
- 1 wooden dowel, 16 in (40.6 cm) long, 0.75 in (1.9 cm) diameter
- 2 round wooden dowel brackets, with screws and wall anchors
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
Special stitch: Reverse single crochet (rev sc). Work from left to right (right-handed). Insert your hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops on the hook. This makes the rounded, rope-like rim.
Filet blocks (6 stitch positions each):
- Solid block (A): dc in each of the next 6 positions (stitches or ch-1 spaces).
- Mesh block (B): (dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st or ch-1 sp) 3 times. This makes 3 windows.
Gauge and Checkpoints
- Single crochet: 15 sts and 17 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Double crochet: 15 sts and 8 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
Before you start the basket, make one test piece: a strap tab (Rows 1–14 below). It should measure 1.6 in (4.1 cm) wide and 3.3 in (8.4 cm) long. If it does, your hook is right.
Checkpoints:
- After base Rnd 1: about 10 in (25.4 cm) long
- After base Rnd 10: 14.3 × 4.7 in (36.3 × 11.9 cm), lying flat
- After Rnd 13: about 0.7 in (1.8 cm) of upright wall
- After Rnd 19: walls about 3.7 in (9.4 cm) tall
- After Rnd 23: 4.6 in (11.7 cm) tall
If your piece is too big, go down a hook size (4.0 mm / US G-6). If it is too small or too stiff, go up to 5.0 mm (US H-8). Don’t change the stitch counts. All of the checkerboard math depends on 132 stitches.
Basket Base
The rounds are joined. Each round starts at the first stitch of one curved end. Each oval has 4 sections: End A, Straight Side 1, End B and Straight Side 2. Place a marker at the start of each section and move the markers up as you work.
Rnd 1: Ch 39. Work 3 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook (End A), sc in the next 36 ch, then 3 sc in the last ch (End B). Rotate the piece and work along the bottom loops of the foundation chain: sc in the next 36 ch. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (78 sts: 3 + 36 + 3 + 36)
Rnd 2: Ch 1. 2 sc in each of the next 3 sts, sc in the next 36 sts; rep from * once more. Join. (84 sts; ends 6 each)*
Rnd 3: Ch 1. (Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 36 sts; rep from * once more. Join. (90 sts; ends 9 each)*
Rnd 4: Ch 1. (Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 36 sts; rep from * once more. Join. (96 sts; ends 12 each)*
Rnd 5: Ch 1. (Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) 3 times, sc in next 36 sts; rep from * once more. Join. (102 sts; ends 15 each)*
Rnd 6: As Rnd 5, but sc in the next 4 sts before each increase. (108 sts; ends 18 each)
Rnd 7: Sc in the next 5 sts before each increase. (114 sts; ends 21 each)
Rnd 8: Sc in the next 6 sts before each increase. (120 sts; ends 24 each)
Rnd 9: Sc in the next 7 sts before each increase. (126 sts; ends 27 each)
Rnd 10: Sc in the next 8 sts before each increase. (132 sts: 30 + 36 + 30 + 36)
The base should lie completely flat and measure 14.3 × 4.7 in (36.3 × 11.9 cm). If the ends cup, check that each end section gets exactly 3 increases.
Basket Walls
Rnd 11 (turning ridge): Ch 1, sc in the BLO of each st around. Join. (132 sts) The unworked front loops make the ridge where the walls start.
Rnds 12–13: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (132 sts)
The walls now stand up. Each round has 132 stitch positions, which divide into 22 blocks of 6. Because 22 is even, the checkerboard closes neatly at the join. Each straight side holds exactly 6 whole blocks, and each end holds 5.
Rnd 14 (A–B): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 5 sts. (Dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) 3 times, dc in next 6 sts; rep from * 9 more times, then (dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) 3 times. Join to the top of the beg ch-3. (11 solid blocks + 11 mesh blocks = 99 dc and 33 ch-1 sps, 132 positions)*
Rnd 15 (A–B): Sl st into the first dc of the round (the beg ch-3 of Rnd 14) is already your join; ch 3 (counts as dc). Dc in next 5 dc. (Dc in next dc, ch 1, sk ch-1 sp) 3 times, dc in next 6 dc; rep from * 9 more times, then (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk ch-1 sp) 3 times. Join. (132 positions)*
Rnd 16 (B–A, blocks swap): Ch 4 (counts as dc and ch 1), sk next st, (dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) 2 times. Dc in each of the next 6 positions (dc in each dc and each ch-1 sp); (dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) 3 times; rep from * 9 more times, then dc in each of the next 6 positions. Join to the 3rd ch of the beg ch-4. (132 positions)*
Rnd 17 (B–A): Ch 4, sk ch-1 sp, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk ch-1 sp) 2 times. Dc in next 6 dc, (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk ch-1 sp) 3 times; rep from * 9 more times, then dc in next 6 dc. Join. (132 positions)*
Rnd 18 (A–B, blocks swap back): Ch 3, dc in each of the next 5 positions (ch-1 sps and dc). (Dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) 3 times, dc in each of the next 6 positions; rep from * 9 more times, then (dc in next dc, ch 1, sk next dc) 3 times. Join. (132 positions)*
Rnd 19 (A–B): Work as Rnd 15. (132 positions)
Rnd 20 (conversion round): Ch 1. Sc in each dc and each ch-1 sp around. Join. (99 sc over dc + 33 sc in ch-1 sps = 132 sts)
The walls should now measure 3.9 in (9.9 cm) tall from the turning ridge.
Make All Pieces
Hanging strap (make 2): Ch 7.
- Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (6 sts)
- Rows 2–38: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (6 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strap measures 1.6 × 8.9 in (4.1 × 22.6 cm).
Ring tab (make 2): Work as the strap, but stop after Row 14. (6 sts) Leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The tab measures 1.6 × 3.3 in (4.1 × 8.4 cm).
Total for the one color: 1 body, 2 straps, 2 tabs, all in terracotta.
Layout (back straight side, 36 rim sts, viewed from behind):
[ 3 sts ][ TAB 1: 6 sts ][ 18 sts open ][ TAB 2: 6 sts ][ 3 sts ]
ring ring
strap strap
======= dowel rod ===============================
Joining
Ring tabs to basket: Find Straight Side 2, the back of the basket. Count in 3 stitches from each corner marker. Fold one tab in half around a wooden ring. Place the folded tab over the rim so that one leg lies inside the basket and the other lies outside, centered over rim sts 4–9. Use the second tab over sts 28–33. The strap centers sit 24 sts apart, which is about 6.4 in (16.3 cm).
Whipstitch each leg to the wall stitch for stitch, 6 tab sts to 6 wall sts, along its bottom edge and both long sides. Sew through both layers just below the border so the rim stays round.
Straps to rings and rod: Pass the bottom 1.2 in (3.0 cm) of a strap through a ring, fold it back and whipstitch it in place. Wrap the top end around the dowel and overlap it about 2.5 in (6.4 cm). Sew across the full 6-stitch width twice.
Tension: Sew firmly but not tightly. Puckering means your stitches are too tight, and gaps mean they are too loose. Make 1 sewing stitch per crochet stitch.
Size checkpoint: Hold the basket by both rings. The rim should stay level, and the drop from the rod to the rim should be about 3 in (7.6 cm).
Border
Border gauge: 15 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). The border works over the 132 sts from Rnd 20. Counts per section: End A 30, Straight Side 1 36, End B 30, Straight Side 2 36.
Rnd 21: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (30 + 36 + 30 + 36 = 132 sts)
Rnd 22: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (30 + 36 + 30 + 36 = 132 sts)
Rnd 23: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around. Join and fasten off. (30 + 36 + 30 + 36 = 132 sts)
Why the math works: At 15 sts per 4 in, 132 sts measure 35.2 in (89.4 cm), which is exactly the wall circumference. The border keeps the same count as the walls, so the rim doesn’t flare or pull in. The two sc rounds stiffen the edge, and the reverse sc rolls it into a firm rope. The border adds 0.7 in (1.8 cm), bringing the total height to 4.6 in (11.7 cm).
Sew the ring tabs on after you finish the border.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all tails along solid blocks or sc rounds, never across the mesh windows.
- Spray the basket evenly with water until damp but not soaked.
- Stuff it firmly with a towel or a box cut to 14.3 × 4.7 in (36.3 × 11.9 cm).
- Square the straight sides and round out the ends by hand.
- Gently open each mesh window into a square.
- Pin the straps flat and straight.
- Let everything dry completely, for at least 24 hours.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The base lies flat and measures 14.3 × 4.7 in (36.3 × 11.9 cm).
- Every round from 11 to 23 has 132 stitches or positions.
- The checkerboard alternates cleanly, with no two solid blocks touching side by side.
- Each mesh block has 3 even windows.
- The rim is round, level and doesn’t ruffle.
- The tabs are centered and 24 sts apart.
- Each strap has a secure double seam across its full width.
- All ends are woven in invisibly.
Troubleshooting
- Base cups or ruffles: Recount the increases (3 per end, per round) and check your gauge.
- Checkerboard is off at the join: Recount Rnd 14. It must contain 22 complete blocks.
- Walls lean outward: Your dc rounds are loose. Go down a hook size for Rnds 14–19 only.
- Windows are uneven: Keep every ch-1 the same size, and don’t pull up tall loops.
- Rim flares: Your rev sc is too loose. Work it with a smaller hook.
- Basket tilts when hung: Re-center the tabs exactly 3 sts in from each corner.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the water in a towel, and dry the basket on a stuffed form. Remove the wooden rings and dowel before washing.
Final Notes
Each stage builds on the one before. Your gauge of 15 sts per 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 132-stitch oval base 14.3 × 4.7 in (36.3 × 11.9 cm). Those 132 sts make a 35.2 in (89.4 cm) wall that holds 22 checkerboard blocks. A 0.7 in (1.8 cm) border keeps the same 132 sts and brings the height to 4.6 in (11.7 cm). If you check each measurement as you reach it, the finished basket will hang level and hold its shape.
Happy crocheting!