The Sage Lattice Stripe Panel is a small rectangle with a calm, modern look. Solid bands of sage green single crochet alternate with light beige rows of open eyelets, so the fabric looks striped and airy at once.
The palette is just two colors: a soft sage or olive green and a warm beige. The green gives the panel its structure, and the beige rows add texture and small windows of light. You can use it as a dishcloth, a table mat, a pattern swatch, or a sampler for the stitch.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished panel measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide by 9 in (22.9 cm) tall, including the border.
Construction is simple. You work the panel flat in rows from a green foundation chain and change colors at the end of rows. Then you finish with one green single crochet round around all four sides. There is no joining, and the only sewing is weaving in ends.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6.5 in x 9 in (16.5 cm x 22.9 cm)
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4 medium)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1
- Layout: One portrait rectangle with horizontal stripes
- Piece size before border: 6 in x 8.5 in (15.2 cm x 21.6 cm)
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on each side
- Stripe sequence: 9 green bands and 8 beige eyelet bands, green at top and bottom
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted weight yarn in cotton, cotton blend, or acrylic. Cotton gives crisp stitch definition and is best for a dishcloth. Acrylic is softer and lighter for a decorative mat.
- Color A, sage green: 20 g, about 40 m
- Color B, light beige: 10 g, about 20 m
These quantities assume a yarn of about 200 m per 100 g. Both amounts include a margin of roughly 15 to 20 percent for testing gauge, tails, and weaving in.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape or ruler
- Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat or folded towel
- Spray bottle with clean water
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sk – skip
- sl st – slip stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- RS – right side
- WS – wrong side
Special technique: color change. Work the last stitch of the row in the old color until 2 loops remain on the hook. Drop the old color, yarn over with the new color, and pull through both loops.
Carrying versus cutting. You can carry Color B. After each beige row, it waits at the same edge where the next beige row begins, three rows later. Carry it loosely up that edge.
You can’t carry Color A. Each beige band is a single row, so the green always has to restart at the opposite edge. Cut Color A at each change to beige, leaving a 4 in (10.2 cm) tail. Bring in a new strand of Color A with the color change at the end of each beige row, also leaving a 4 in (10.2 cm) tail. Lay these tails along the side edge, and the border will cover them.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). One full stripe repeat (1 beige dc row plus 2 green sc rows) = 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
This is a single-piece design, so test with the start of the panel itself. Work Rows 1 to 5, then lay the piece flat without stretching and measure it.
Checkpoints:
- After Row 2: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall
- After Row 5: 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall
- After Row 14: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall
- After Row 26: 6 in x 8.5 in (15.2 cm x 21.6 cm)
- After the border: 6.5 in x 9 in (16.5 cm x 22.9 cm)
If your piece is too big, for example 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide after Row 2, switch to a 4.5 mm hook and start again. If it is too small, for example 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide, switch to a 5.5 mm hook.
Width matters most, because the eyelet rows need an exact odd stitch count. Don’t add or remove stitches to fix the size; change the hook instead.
Panel Pattern
The panel is worked on 21 stitches throughout. The eyelet rows need an odd count so each row starts and ends with a dc.
Foundation: With Color A, ch 22.
Row 1 (RS, Color A): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (21 sc)
Row 2 (WS, Color A): Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in each st across. Change to Color B in the last sc, cut Color A, turn. (21 sc)
This completes the first green band, 0.5 in (1.3 cm) tall.
Row 3 (RS, Color B, eyelet row): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), ch 1, sk next st, dc in next st; repeat from * 9 more times. Change to a new strand of Color A in the last dc, turn. (11 dc + 10 ch-1 sps = 21 sts)
The skipped stitches create 10 eyelets. Count them before moving on.
Row 4 (WS, Color A): Ch 1, sc in first dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next dc; repeat from * 9 more times, working the final sc into the top of the turning ch-3, turn. (1 sc + 20 sc = 21 sc)
This is a conversion row: 11 sc go into the 11 dc, and 10 sc go into the 10 ch-1 spaces. The green closes over each eyelet while the hole stays open below it.
Row 5 (RS, Color A): Ch 1, sc in each st across. Change to Color B in the last sc, cut Color A, turn. (21 sc)
Rows 3 to 5 form one stripe repeat, 1 in (2.5 cm) tall. The panel now measures 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
Rows 6 to 26: Repeat Rows 3 to 5 seven more times. Every row in every repeat has 21 sts. The beige eyelet rows are Rows 3, 6, 9, 12, 15, 18, 21, and 24, and all other rows are green sc.
Rows 3, 9, 15, and 21 are RS rows, and Rows 6, 12, 18, and 24 are WS rows. The eyelets look the same from both sides. Alternating sides is part of the design and gives the beige bands their slightly crossed look.
At the end of Row 26, don’t change color and don’t fasten off. Keep Color A on the hook for the border. Cut Color B, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.
Checkpoint: 26 rows total (18 green sc rows and 8 beige dc rows), 9 green bands, 8 beige bands, 21 sts wide, 6 in x 8.5 in (15.2 cm x 21.6 cm).
Working Tips
Keep the turning ch-3 snug so the beige rows don’t flare at the edges. Its height should match your dc.
In the green rows, insert the hook fully into each ch-1 space, not into the chain itself. This keeps the eyelets round and open.
Check your row count every time you finish a repeat. One eyelet row should always be followed by exactly two green rows.
Border
Border gauge: 3.5 sc per 1 in (2.5 cm), the same as the body gauge. The sides are 8.5 in (21.6 cm) long, so they need about 30 sc between the corner groups (8.5 x 3.5 = 29.75, rounded to 30).
Round 1 (Color A): Ch 1, do not turn. Work along the top edge into the stitches of Row 26: 3 sc in first st (corner), sc in next 19 sts, 3 sc in last st (corner).
Turn the panel to work down the side edge into the row-ends, working over the green tails as you go. Work 1 sc in the end of each green sc row, for 18 sc. In the beige dc row-ends, work 2 sc in the ends of Rows 21, 15, 9, and 3, and 1 sc in the ends of Rows 24, 18, 12, and 6. That adds 12 sc, for 30 sc in row-ends.
Turn the panel to work along the bottom, into the opposite side of the foundation chain: 3 sc in first ch (corner), sc in next 19 ch, 3 sc in last ch (corner).
Work up the second side the same way: 1 sc in each green sc row-end, 2 sc in the ends of Rows 3, 9, 15, and 21, and 1 sc in the ends of Rows 6, 12, 18, and 24. (30 sc in row-ends)
Join with a sl st to the first sc. Fasten off. (110 sc)
Count per side, including both corner stitches (the center sc of each 3-sc corner group):
- Top: 1 corner + 1 + 19 + 1 + 1 corner = 23 sc
- Bottom: 23 sc
- Left side: 1 corner + 1 + 30 + 1 + 1 corner = 34 sc
- Right side: 34 sc
The four sides add up to 23 + 23 + 34 + 34 = 114. Each of the 4 corner stitches belongs to two sides, so subtract 4: 114 – 4 = 110 sc. This matches the round total: 4 corner groups x 3 sc (12) plus 19 + 19 + 30 + 30 (98) = 110.
Why the math works:
- Green row-ends: Each green sc row-end is about as tall as a sc is wide, so 1 sc per row-end lies flat.
- Beige row-ends: Each dc row-end is about twice as tall. Working 2 sc into every one would make the side 34 sts, and it would ruffle. Alternating 2 sc and 1 sc averages 1.5 sc per dc row-end, which gives 30 sts and matches the 3.5 sc per inch gauge.
- Corners: The extra sc in each corner group lets the border turn the corner without pulling.
The border adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on each side:
- Width: 6 + 0.25 + 0.25 = 6.5 in (16.5 cm)
- Height: 8.5 + 0.25 + 0.25 = 9 in (22.9 cm)
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends along the side edges, hiding each one inside its matching color. Weave each tail in at least 2 directions.
- Lay the panel RS up on a blocking mat or folded towel.
- Mist evenly with clean water until damp but not soaked. For cotton, you can also wet block: soak the panel and gently squeeze out the water.
- Pin the 4 corners first to a 6.5 in x 9 in (16.5 cm x 22.9 cm) rectangle.
- Add pins along each side about every 1 in (2.5 cm), keeping the stripes straight and horizontal.
- Gently open each beige eyelet with a fingertip so all 10 holes in each row look even.
- Let the panel dry completely, then unpin.
For acrylic, you can steam block instead. Hold the iron above the fabric without touching it, then let the panel cool before you unpin it.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- 26 rows: 18 green sc rows and 8 beige eyelet rows
- 21 sts in every row and 10 eyelets in every beige row
- 9 green bands and 8 beige bands, with green at the top and bottom
- Border Round 1 totals 110 sc: 23 on the top and bottom, 34 on each side, corners included
- Corners are square and lie flat
- Side edges are straight, with no ruffling or pulling
- Tails and carried yarn are hidden under the border
- Finished size is 6.5 in x 9 in (16.5 cm x 22.9 cm)
Troubleshooting
The panel gets narrower toward the top. You’re probably missing the last sc into the turning ch-3 in the rows after the eyelet rows. Count 21 sts at the end of every row.
The eyelet count is off. The row before probably had 20 or 22 sts. Unravel back to the last correct row; 21 sts gives exactly 10 eyelets.
The beige rows look too tall or loose. Pull each ch-1 snug and keep the dc short. If needed, work the beige rows with a hook 0.5 mm smaller.
The side edges ruffle after the border. Work 1 sc in all eight dc row-ends instead of alternating, then check that the side lies flat.
The side edges pull in. The carried beige strand may be too tight. Loosen it at each color change, or work 2 sc in all eight dc row-ends.
The other color shows at a color change. Always change color on the final yarn over of the last stitch, not at the start of the next row.
Green tails poke through the border. Trim the tails to about 1 in (2.5 cm) once you’ve worked over them, then weave the ends into a green band.
Care
Machine wash cotton on a gentle cycle and lay flat to dry, or follow the yarn label. Reshape it while damp to keep the 6.5 in x 9 in (16.5 cm x 22.9 cm) size.
Final Notes
Here is how the measurements build up:
- Width: 21 sts at 14 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm) gives 6 in (15.2 cm).
- Height: The first 0.5 in (1.3 cm) green band plus 8 stripe repeats of 1 in (2.5 cm) each gives 8.5 in (21.6 cm).
- Border: 0.25 in (0.6 cm) on every side brings the panel to 6.5 in x 9 in (16.5 cm x 22.9 cm).
Check your width after Row 2 and count the eyelets in every beige row. If those are right, the finished size will be too.
Happy crocheting!