Beige crocheted items with decorative lace patterns arranged on white marble, including a basket, bowls, and geometric shapes.

Seashell Fan Hanging Wall Basket Crochet Pattern

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The Seashell Fan Hanging Wall Basket is a half-bowl wall pocket with a lace front. Large fans and raised ribs radiate up from a solid point at the bottom, small fans fill the gaps between them, and a plain band finishes the rim. A flat back panel lets it sit snugly against the wall, and two tapered straps meet at a wooden ring.

It is worked in one color, a warm oatmeal beige, so the stitch texture does all the decorating. That suits a calm bathroom, a laundry nook, or an entryway, and it holds three standard toilet-paper rolls easily.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished basket measures 11.5 in (29.2 cm) wide, 6.25 in (15.9 cm) tall, and about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) deep. From the top of the ring to the bottom of the basket it hangs about 17 in (43.2 cm).

You make four pieces: a half-circle back panel, a lace half-bowl front body, and two tapered straps. You then crochet the body to the curved edge of the back panel, add a three-round border around the opening, and attach the straps to the ring.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished basket: 11.5 in (29.2 cm) wide × 6.25 in (15.9 cm) tall × about 5.5 in (14.0 cm) deep
  • Hanging height: about 17 in (43.2 cm) including the ring
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: Aran / worsted (4, medium)
  • Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
  • Number of pieces: 4 crocheted pieces + 1 wooden ring
  • Layout: back panel and front body joined along the curve, with one strap at each back corner meeting at the ring
  • Piece sizes: back panel 11.5 in (29.2 cm) × 5.75 in (14.6 cm); straps 12 in (30.5 cm) long, tapering from 3 in (7.6 cm) to 1.25 in (3.2 cm)
  • Size before border: 11.5 in (29.2 cm) wide × 5.75 in (14.6 cm) tall
  • Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm)

Materials

Use a smooth cotton or cotton-blend Aran yarn with good stitch definition, roughly 170 m per 100 g. Cotton holds the bowl shape and shows the fans and ribs crisply. Avoid fuzzy or very drapey yarns, because the basket would sag.

  • Oatmeal beige: 180 g, about 306 m

Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Wooden ring, 3 in (7.6 cm) outer diameter
– Tapestry needle
– 6–8 locking stitch markers
– Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat
– A bowl about 11 in (27.9 cm) across, or a plastic bag stuffed with towels, for shaping
– Optional: fabric stiffener or spray starch

The yarn quantity includes a margin of about 25% for your gauge swatch and tension differences.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch: chain
  • sl st: slip stitch
  • sc: single crochet
  • hdc: half double crochet
  • hdc2tog: half double crochet 2 together
  • dc: double crochet
  • fpdc / bpdc: front post / back post double crochet
  • sp(s): space(s)
  • st(s): stitch(es)
  • tch: turning chain
  • RS / WS: right side / wrong side

Special stitches:
– V-st: (dc, ch 1, dc) in the same stitch.
– Small fan: (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in the same space.
– Rib: the single post stitch running up between the large fans. Work it as a bpdc on WS rows and as a fpdc on RS rows, so it always rises on the outside.

Gauge and Checkpoints

  • hdc: 13 sts and 10 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)
  • dc: 13 sts and 7 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)
  • sc (border): 14 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm)

Make the back panel first and treat it as your gauge test. It is quick and solid, and every later count depends on it.

Back panel checkpoints (measured across the straight edge):
– After Row 4: 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
– After Row 9: 7.5 in (19.1 cm)
– After Row 14: 11.5 in (29.2 cm) wide × 5.75 in (14.6 cm) tall

If your panel is more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) too big, go down one hook size. If it is too small, go up one hook size. Start again rather than changing the stitch counts, because the join relies on exactly 60 stitches along the curve.

Cream macramé bag detail with wooden handle, showing intricate knotted openwork pattern and twisted rope trim.

Back Panel (make 1)

Work in turned rows. The row ends form the straight top edge, and the ring sits at its center.

Row 1 (RS): Make a magic ring. Ch 2 (does not count), 8 hdc in ring, pull tight. Turn. (8 sts)

Rows 2–14: On every row, ch 2 (does not count), then *2 hdc in next st, hdc in next X sts; rep from * 3 more times. Turn. X starts at 1 and goes up by one each row.

  • Row 2: X = 1 (12 sts)
  • Row 3: X = 2 (16 sts)
  • Row 4: X = 3 (20 sts)
  • Row 5: X = 4 (24 sts)
  • Row 6: X = 5 (28 sts)
  • Row 7: X = 6 (32 sts)
  • Row 8: X = 7 (36 sts)
  • Row 9: X = 8 (40 sts)
  • Row 10: X = 9 (44 sts)
  • Row 11: X = 10 (48 sts)
  • Row 12: X = 11 (52 sts)
  • Row 13: X = 12 (56 sts)
  • Row 14: X = 13 (60 sts)

Each repeat uses (X + 1) stitches from the row below, and four repeats use them all. Every row therefore adds exactly 4 stitches, so Row n has 4 × (n + 1) stitches.

Fasten off and weave in the ends. The curve has 60 stitches, and each half of the straight edge has 14 row ends.

Front Body (make 1)

Work in turned rows from a ring at the bottom of the basket. Each row is a half round. The row ends form the two side edges that are later joined to the curve of the back panel.

Row 1 (RS): Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), 5 dc in ring, pull tight. Turn. (6 dc)

Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in first st, 2 dc in each st across. Turn. (12 dc)

Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in first st, dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next st; rep from * 4 more times. Turn. (18 dc)*

Checkpoint: each side edge measures about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) from the ring.

Row 4 (V row): Ch 3 (counts as dc), V-st in next st, ch 1, skip 2 sts, V-st in next st; rep from * 4 more times, dc in last st. Turn. (14 dc, 11 ch-1 sps: 6 inside V-sts, 5 between them)*

Row 5 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in next V-st sp, dc in next ch-1 sp; rep from * 4 more times, (2 dc, ch 1, 2 dc) in last V-st sp, dc in top of tch. Turn. (31 sts: 2 edge dc, 24 fan dc, 5 rib dc; 6 ch-1 sps)*

Row 6 (WS): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next fan sp, ch 1, bpdc around next rib, ch 1, (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in next fan sp; rep from * 4 more times, ch 1, dc in top of tch. Turn. (31 sts; 6 ch-2 sps, 12 ch-1 sps)*

Row 7: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 1, fpdc around next rib, ch 1, (3 dc, ch 2, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 4 more times, ch 1, dc in tch. Turn. (43 sts: 2 + 36 + 5; 6 ch-2 sps, 12 ch-1 sps)*

Row 8: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2), (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp, ch 2, bpdc around next rib, ch 2, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-2 sp; rep from * 4 more times, ch 2, dc in tch. Turn. (43 sts; 6 ch-3 sps, 12 ch-2 sps)*

Row 9: Ch 5, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, V-st in top of next rib, ch 2, (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in next ch-3 sp; rep from * 4 more times, ch 2, dc in tch. Turn. (48 sts: 2 + 36 + 10; 6 ch-3 sps, 5 ch-1 sps, 12 ch-2 sps)*

Row 10 (crown row): Ch 5, 7 dc in next ch-3 sp, ch 2, small fan in next V-st sp, ch 2, 7 dc in next ch-3 sp; rep from * 4 more times, ch 2, dc in tch. Turn. (64 sts: 2 + 42 + 20; 12 ch-2 sps, 5 ch-1 sps)*

Row 11 (loop row): Ch 1, sc in first dc, ch 4, sc in 4th dc of next crown, ch 4, sc in ch-1 sp of next small fan, ch 4, sc in 4th dc of next crown; rep from * 4 more times, ch 4, sc in 3rd ch of tch. Turn. (13 sc, 12 ch-4 loops)*

Row 12 (conversion row, WS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), [4 dc in next loop, dc in next sc] 5 times, 4 dc in next loop, skip the center sc, 4 dc in next loop, [dc in next sc, 4 dc in next loop] 5 times, dc in last sc. Turn.

Count for Row 12: 12 dc (one in each sc except the skipped center one) + 48 dc (4 in each of the 12 loops) = 60 dc. Skipping the center sc keeps the count even and symmetrical.

Checkpoint: each side edge measures about 6.75 in (17.1 cm).

Rows 13–16: Ch 2 (does not count), hdc in each st across. Turn. (60 hdc each row)

Fasten off. Each side edge measures about 8.5 in (21.6 cm), and the rim measures about 18.5 in (47.0 cm) along its edge.

Straps (make 2)

Work the straps from the wide end up to the narrow end.

Row 1: Ch 12, hdc in 3rd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (10 hdc)

Rows 2–7: Ch 2 (does not count), hdc in each st. Turn. (10 sts)

Row 8: Ch 2, hdc2tog, hdc to last 2 sts, hdc2tog. Turn. (8 sts)

Rows 9–14: Hdc in each st. (8 sts)

Row 15: Decrease as in Row 8. (6 sts)

Rows 16–21: Hdc in each st. (6 sts)

Row 22: Decrease as in Row 8. (4 sts)

Rows 23–30: Hdc in each st. (4 sts)

Fasten off, leaving a 16 in (40.6 cm) tail. Each strap is 12 in (30.5 cm) long, 3 in (7.6 cm) wide at the bottom and 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide at the top.

Make All Pieces

All pieces use the one oatmeal color:

  • Back panel: 1 (about 30 g)
  • Front body: 1 (about 65 g)
  • Straps: 2 (about 13 g each)
  • Border and finishing: about 15 g

Assembly layout (back view):

              ( RING )
              /      \
        STRAP A      STRAP B
          /              \
 [==== BORDER, 102 sc, 3 rounds ====]
 [  BACK PANEL: straight edge 21 | 21 ]
 [  curve 60 hdc joined to body 30|30 ]
             \__ ring point __/

Joining

Join the body to the back panel with single crochet through both layers.

  1. Hold the pieces with wrong sides together, body facing you. Line up the body’s ring with the center of the back panel’s curve, between hdc 30 and hdc 31, and mark that spot.
  2. Join yarn through the top right corner of both pieces: the end of body Row 16 and the first hdc of back panel Row 14.
  3. Work down the body’s side edge, putting 1 sc into each back panel hdc:
  4. Rows 16–13 (hdc): 3 sc for every 2 row ends, 6 sc
  5. Rows 12 and 11: 2 sc each, 4 sc
  6. Rows 10–1 (dc): 2 sc each, 20 sc
  7. That makes 30 sc, which brings you to the marked center.
  8. Work up the other side the same way in reverse order: 30 sc.

Total: 60 sc, which matches the 60 hdc on the back panel curve one-for-one. No seam stitches are added.

The body edge is a little shorter than the panel curve, so ease it gently. Keep your tension even and slightly relaxed so the seam doesn’t pucker. Pin both corners and the center before you start.

Checkpoint: the opening measures 11.5 in (29.2 cm) across the back.

Border

Border gauge: 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm).

Round 1: With the outside facing, join at the top right corner. Ch 1, then:
– Front rim: sc in each of the 60 hdc of Row 16 (60 sc).
– Back panel straight edge: 21 sc across the 14 row ends to the center, then 21 sc across the other 14 row ends (3 sc for every 2 row ends), for 42 sc.
– Join with a sl st to the first sc. (102 sc)

Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each st, join. (102 sc: 60 front + 42 back)

Round 3: Sl st loosely in each st. (102 sl sts) This makes the corded edge.

Why the math works:
– Front rim: the rim is about 18.5 in (47.0 cm) long. At border gauge that would take about 65 sc, so 60 sc draws it in slightly and holds the opening firm.
– Back edge: the straight edge would take about 40 sc, so 42 sc lies flat without flaring.
– Corners: the side seams end exactly at the corners, so no corner stitches are added.

Final Blocking

  1. Weave in all ends before blocking.
  2. Dampen the basket thoroughly, then press out the water in a towel. Don’t wring it.
  3. Pin the back panel flat on the mat.
  4. Fill the bowl with a towel-wrapped bowl or a stuffed bag until the front is fully rounded.
  5. Open each crown and small fan with your fingers. Straighten the ribs so they radiate evenly from the bottom point.
  6. If you like, spray with starch or stiffener. Let it dry completely, which takes 24–48 hours.
  7. Block the straps flat, pinned to 12 in (30.5 cm).
  8. Attach the straps:
  9. Lap 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of each wide end over the inside of a back corner and whipstitch it in place.
  10. Pass the narrow ends through the ring, fold 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of each to the back, and sew it down.
  11. Wrap yarn 10 times around both straps just below the ring and secure the wrap.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • Back panel Row 14 has 60 hdc and is 11.5 in (29.2 cm) wide
  • Body rows have 6, 12, 18, 14, 31, 31, 43, 43, 48, 64, 13 and 60 stitches, then 60 for each hdc row
  • There are 5 ribs between 6 large fans, running straight
  • The join has 30 sc per side and the body’s ring is at the center of the curve
  • Border Rounds 1–2 have 102 sc each
  • The straps are the same length and evenly tapered
  • The basket hangs level from the ring

Troubleshooting

  • The back panel ripples: Your tension is too loose for the 4-stitch increase. Go down a hook size.
  • The back panel cups: Your tension is too tight. Go up a hook size.
  • The lace flares too much: Pull the ch-sps snug and check your dc gauge. Blocking over a bowl tames mild flare.
  • The ribs lean: Check that each post stitch goes around the rib, not around a fan dc.
  • The seam puckers: Re-pin at the corners and the center, then redistribute the sc evenly.
  • The basket tilts: Even out the strap lengths before the final wrap.

Care

Hand wash in cool water, press out the water, and dry flat over a bowl to keep the shape. Reapply starch if the basket softens over time.

Beige crochet hanging basket displaying toilet paper rolls on a light bathroom wall above a small potted fern plant.

Final Notes

Everything depends on one measurement chain:
– The back panel grows by 4 stitches per row to 60 at 11.5 in (29.2 cm).
– The body narrows its lace down to exactly 60 stitches at the rim.
– The join matches 30 + 30 sc to the 60-stitch curve.
– The border closes the opening with 60 + 42 = 102 stitches.

If you hit each checkpoint, the pieces fit together without guesswork.

Happy crocheting!

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