This curtain hangs lace snowflakes and holly sprigs in a window. A scalloped cream header sits on a rod by its crocheted tabs, and 12 strands drop almost to the floor. On each strand, lacy six-point snowflakes alternate with holly leaves and burgundy berries, so the light shows between them.
The palette is cream, dark green, and deep burgundy. The style is traditional and close to vintage, and it suits a door, a tall window, or a room divider for the holidays.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished curtain is 43.2 in (109.7 cm) wide and 75 in (190.5 cm) long, measured from the top of the header band to the tip of the lowest snowflake. The tabs are extra and sit above the band.
You’ll make 12 semicircle header pieces and join them as you go. Then you’ll work a straight top band with tabs across them. The strands come last: separate snowflakes, holly sprigs, and short slip-stitch cords, all sewn into chains that hang from the center of each scallop.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 43.2 in x 75 in (109.7 cm x 190.5 cm), not counting the tabs
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: DK (#3) mercerized cotton
- Hook: 3.5 mm (E-4)
- Number of pieces: 12 header semicircles, 144 snowflakes, 264 holly leaves, 396 berries, 144 cords
- Layout: 12 header pieces in one row, with 12 strands of 12 snowflakes and 11 holly sprigs each
- Header piece size: 3.6 in (9.1 cm) wide x 1.8 in (4.6 cm) deep
- Header size before border: 43.2 in x 1.8 in (109.7 cm x 4.6 cm)
- Border (top band) depth: 1.2 in (3.0 cm), so the finished header is 3.0 in (7.6 cm) deep
- Tabs: 12 tabs, each 4 in (10.2 cm) long before folding, for a rod up to 1 in (2.5 cm) across
Materials
Mercerized cotton is the best choice here. It gives crisp stitch definition, blocks flat, and won’t stretch much under the weight of the strands. Avoid acrylic, because the long strands would grow over time.
- Cream (A): 700 g / about 1,540 m (header, tabs, snowflakes, cords)
- Dark green (B): 350 g / about 770 m (holly leaves)
- Burgundy (C): 200 g / about 440 m (berries)
These quantities include a margin of about 15 percent. Buy all of color A from one dye lot.
Tools:
– 3.5 mm (E-4) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Rustproof pins and a blocking board
– Spray bottle
– Stitch markers
– Small scissors
– Tape measure
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS – right side
Picot: Ch 3, then sl st in the 3rd ch from hook.
Back-bump cord: Work each sl st into the bump on the back of the chain. This makes a firm, rounded cord that doesn’t stretch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 20 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). In dc, 20 sts and 11 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Before you commit to the full project, make 1 header piece and 1 snowflake as a test.
Header piece checkpoints (width across the straight edge):
– After Row 2: 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
– After Row 4: 2.9 in (7.4 cm)
– After Row 5: 3.6 in (9.1 cm)
Snowflake checkpoints:
– After Round 1: 1 in (2.5 cm) across
– After Round 3: 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across
– After Round 5: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) from point to point
Cord checkpoint: One finished cord is 2.5 in (6.4 cm) long.
If your header piece is wider than 3.8 in (9.7 cm), go down half a hook size. If it’s narrower than 3.4 in (8.6 cm), go up half a size. Don’t fix the header with blocking alone. The top band depends on each piece being 3.6 in (9.1 cm) wide.
Header Pieces (Make 12 in A)
Row 1 (RS): Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work 6 dc in the ring. Pull the ring closed until the center hole is about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) across. Turn. (7 dc)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc). Dc in the same st, then work 2 dc in each st across, including the top of the turning ch. Turn. (14 dc)
Row 3: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1). Dc in next dc, ch 1; rep from * across, ending with a dc in the top of the turning ch and no ch after it. Turn. (14 dc, 13 ch-1 sps)*
Row 4: Ch 5 (counts as dc + ch 2). Dc in next dc, ch 2; rep from * across, ending with a dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch-4. Turn. (14 dc, 13 ch-2 sps)*
Row 5 (scallop row): Ch 1, sc in the first dc. Work 3 dc in the next ch-2 sp, then sc in the next dc; rep from * across, working the last sc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch-5. (14 sc, 13 shells of 3 dc = 53 sts)*
The 7th shell is the center shell, and it’s the lowest point of the scallop. Place a marker in its middle dc, because a strand will hang from it.
For Piece 1, fasten off after Row 5.
Make All Pieces
| Piece | Color | Quantity |
|---|---|---|
| Header semicircle | A | 12 |
| Snowflake | A | 144 (12 per strand) |
| Cord | A | 144 (12 per strand) |
| Holly leaf | B | 264 (22 per strand) |
| Berry | C | 396 (33 per strand) |
Snowflake (Make 144 in A)
Round 1: Ch 6 and sl st to form a ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc in the ring, then sl st to the top of the ch-3. (12 dc)
Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next dc, ch 3. Dc in next 2 dc, ch 3; rep from * 4 more times. Sl st to the top of the ch-3. (12 dc, 6 ch-3 sps)*
Round 3: Sl st in the next dc and into the ch-3 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work (dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the same sp, ch 2. Work (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in the next ch-3 sp, ch 2; rep from * 4 more times. Join. (24 dc, 6 point ch-2 sps, 6 between ch-2 sps)*
Round 4: Sl st in the next dc and into the point ch-2 sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work (2 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in the same sp. Ch 1, sc in the next between sp, ch 1. Work (3 dc, ch 3, 3 dc) in the next point sp, ch 1, sc in the next between sp, ch 1; rep from * 4 more times. Join. (36 dc, 6 sc, 6 ch-3 tips, 12 ch-1 sps)*
Round 5: Sl st in the next 2 dc and into the ch-3 tip. Ch 1. Work (sc, picot, sc, ch 5, sc, picot, sc) in the tip, ch 4, sc in the next sc, ch 4; rep from * 5 more times. Join to the first sc. Fasten off. (30 sc, 12 picots, 6 ch-5 tip loops, 12 ch-4 sps)*
Cord (Make 144 in A)
Leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail. Ch 13, then sl st in the back bump of the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Fasten off with a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail. (12 sl sts, 2.5 in / 6.4 cm long)
Holly Leaf (Make 264 in B)
Ch 11.
Side 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, work: sc, hdc, dc, picot, dc, dc, picot, dc, dc, picot, hdc, sc. You’ve now used 9 ch.
Stem: In the last ch, work (sc, ch 2, sc).
Side 2: Work along the underside of the foundation ch, mirroring Side 1: sc, hdc, picot, dc, dc, picot, dc, dc, picot, dc, hdc, sc.
Tip: Picot, then sl st in the first sc. Fasten off. (18 side sts, 2 stem sc, 7 picots; about 2 in / 5.1 cm long x 1 in / 2.5 cm wide)
Berry (Make 396 in C)
Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc in it. (6 sc)
Round 2: Work 2 sc in each st. (12 sc)
Round 3: Sc in each st. (12 sc)
Round 4: Sc2tog 6 times. (6 sts)
Push the starting tail inside as stuffing. Fasten off, then close the hole with the long tail. (About 0.6 in / 1.5 cm across)
Holly Sprig Assembly (Make 132)
Lay 2 leaves stem to stem so they open up and outward in a V. Sew the stems together. Sew 3 berries in a tight triangle over the stems, on the RS.
Layout Grid
Read the grid from left to right and from the top down. H = header piece, S = snowflake, h = holly sprig, and | = cord.
H H H H H H H H H H H H
| | | | | | | | | | | |
S S S S S S S S S S S S row 1
h h h h h h h h h h h h (on cord)
S S S S S S S S S S S S row 2
... repeat to ...
S S S S S S S S S S S S row 12
Joining
Header pieces (join as you go): For Pieces 2–12, work Row 5 until 1 shell remains. In the last ch-2 sp, work 1 dc, then drop the loop. Insert your hook from front to back into the middle dc of the end shell on the previous piece, pick up the dropped loop, and pull it through. Finish the shell with 2 dc. Sc in the last st, ch 1, then sl st into the corner sc of the previous piece. Fasten off.
Each join uses existing stitches, so it adds nothing to the top edge. Keep the ch 1 loose so the straight edges lie flush without puckering. Lay the joined strip flat after every 3 pieces. Three pieces should measure 10.8 in (27.4 cm), and the full strip should measure 43.2 in (109.7 cm).
Strands: Work each column from the top down. Use the cord tails to sew 3 overlapping stitches at every connection:
- Sew the top of Cord 1 to the marked center dc of the header piece. Sew its bottom to a ch-5 tip loop of Snowflake 1.
- Sew the top of the next cord to the opposite tip loop of Snowflake 1. Sew its bottom to the top tip loop of the next snowflake.
- Sew a holly sprig to the middle of that cord, between its 6th and 7th sl sts.
- Repeat steps 2 and 3 until the column has 12 snowflakes, 12 cords, and 11 sprigs.
Strand checkpoint: One strand should measure 2.5 in + (12 x 3.5 in) + (11 x 2.5 in) = 72 in (182.9 cm). Hang it while you check it, because the cords settle under the weight.
Border (Top Band and Tabs)
Border gauge: 20 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm).
The band is worked across the top (straight) edge only. The short sides are just row ends, and the scalloped bottom stays open.
Row 1 (RS): Join A at the top right corner. Ch 1. On each header piece, work sc into the row ends: 1 sc in the end of Row 5, then 2 sc each in the ends of Rows 4, 3, 2, and 1. That’s 9 sc per half. Repeat into the other half’s row ends for 18 sc per piece. Turn. (12 x 18 = 216 sc)
Row 2: Ch 3 (counts as dc), then dc in each st across. Turn. (216 dc)
Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as dc), then dc in each st across. Turn. (216 dc)
Row 4: Ch 1, then sc in each st across. Don’t fasten off yet. (216 sc)
Tabs: The band divides into 12 sections of 18 sts, one above each header piece. Each tab uses the 6 middle sts of its section (sts 7–12), which puts it directly above that piece’s strand.
- Tab Row 1: Join A in st 7 of a section. Ch 1, then sc in the same st and the next 5 sts. (6 sc)
- Tab Rows 2–18: Ch 1, turn, and sc in each st across. (6 sc)
Fasten off with a long tail. Fold the tab to the back and sew its last row across the back of band Row 1. Repeat for all 12 tabs.
Why the math works: Each piece is 3.6 in (9.1 cm) wide, and at 20 sc per 4 in that’s 18 sc. Twelve pieces x 18 sc = 216 sc, and 216 / 5 sc per inch = 43.2 in (109.7 cm). No seam stitches are added, because each piece’s 18 sts already run corner to corner. The band’s 4 rows add 1.2 in (3.0 cm), so the header finishes at 3.0 in (7.6 cm). The 18 tab rows give 4 in (10.2 cm), which fits a rod up to 1 in (2.5 cm) across.
Final Blocking
- Block the snowflakes in batches before you assemble the strands. Pin each point to 3.5 in (8.9 cm), and pin the ch-5 loops and picots open.
- Mist the snowflakes until they’re damp, then let them dry completely.
- Pin the header and band to 43.2 in x 3.0 in (109.7 cm x 7.6 cm). Pin each center shell down to give the scallops their shape.
- Mist the header and let it dry flat.
- Shape the holly leaves by pinning each picot spike outward and misting lightly.
- Hang the curtain for 24 hours before the final check, so the cords can settle.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Header measures 43.2 in (109.7 cm) wide and 3.0 in (7.6 cm) deep
- All 12 tabs are centered over their strands and sewn securely
- Each strand has 12 snowflakes, 12 cords, and 11 sprigs
- Every strand measures 72 in (182.9 cm) below the header
- Snowflakes line up in horizontal rows across the curtain
- All holly sprigs face RS out, with leaves pointing upward
- All tails are woven in at least 1 in (2.5 cm) and trimmed
Troubleshooting
- Header piece cups: Your tension is tight in Row 2. Work it more loosely, or go up a hook size for Rows 1–2 only.
- Header piece ruffles: Shorten your ch-2 spaces in Row 4.
- Band longer than the header: Check that you worked exactly 18 sc per piece.
- Snowflake points curl: Re-block, pinning firmly at the picots.
- Strands are uneven: Recount the cord sl sts, and re-sew any connection that has slipped.
- Holly sprigs flip over: Add a tack stitch through the back of a leaf and into the cord.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with a mild detergent, then lay flat and re-block the snowflakes. Store the curtain rolled, not folded, so the cords don’t kink.
Final Notes
The whole curtain depends on one chain of measurements. Each header piece is 3.6 in (9.1 cm) wide, so 12 pieces make 43.2 in (109.7 cm). Those pieces give 216 sc for the band, which adds 1.2 in (3.0 cm) for a 3.0 in (7.6 cm) header. Each strand adds 72 in (182.9 cm), for a total of 75 in (190.5 cm). Check every stage before you move on, and the curtain will hang straight.
Happy crocheting!