Starlight Trio Toilet Paper Organizer Crochet Pattern

The Starlight Trio is a hanging toilet paper organizer with three snug pockets arranged in a triangle. Each pocket is deep navy with a cream filet-mesh star on the front and a wavy cream rim with a twisted, rope-like edge. A single wooden ring at the top lets it hang from a towel hook or door hook.

The look is cozy and a little festive. Navy and cream suit a winter bathroom, but the design also works all year. The dense single crochet walls hide the rolls well, while the open mesh star adds a light, airy detail.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished cluster measures 9.5 in (24.1 cm) wide and 8.6 in (21.8 cm) tall. With the strap and ring, it is about 15 in (38.1 cm) tall. Each pocket is 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across and 4.8 in (12.2 cm) tall.

Here is the construction in brief. You crochet three pockets from the base up in joined rounds and add the cream rim. Then you make three mesh stars and sew one onto each pocket. Finally, you make one strap, join the pockets into a triangle, and attach the strap and ring.

Finished Size and Construction

• Finished size: 9.5 in (24.1 cm) wide x 8.6 in (21.8 cm) tall (pocket cluster); about 15 in (38.1 cm) tall with the ring
• Skill level: Intermediate
• Terminology: US
• Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
• Hooks: 4.0 mm (pockets, strap), 3.5 mm (stars)
• Number of pieces: 7 (3 pockets, 3 star appliqués, 1 strap)
• Layout: 1 pocket on top, 2 below (triangle)
• Pocket size: 4.75 in (12.1 cm) base diameter x 4.8 in (12.2 cm) tall
• Size before border: the navy pocket alone is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall
• Border (rim) depth: 0.8 in (2.0 cm)

Materials

Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps its shape when it holds a roll and copes well with bathroom humidity. Acrylic works too, but the pockets will be softer.

• Navy: 150 g, about 230 m (250 yd)
• Cream: 60 g, about 93 m (101 yd)

Both quantities include a margin of roughly 15–20% for gauge swatches and sewing.

Tools:
– 4.0 mm and 3.5 mm crochet hooks
– One wooden ring, 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across
– Stitch markers
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Rust-proof pins
– Measuring tape

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
• BLO – back loop only
• sk – skip
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sp – space
• rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch): working left to right, insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through both loops.

Special stitch – Block (filet mesh): One block is an open square framed by two dc posts with a ch-1 space between them. A row of N blocks has N + 1 posts. At the start of a row, “ch 4” counts as the first dc plus ch-1. A dc into the next dc completes the first block, and each (ch 1, dc in next dc) adds one more block.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Pocket gauge (4.0 mm): 16 sc and 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Star gauge (3.5 mm): 11 blocks x 11 rows = 3.5 in (8.9 cm) square.

Make one complete pocket and one star before starting the others. Check these measurements as you go:

• After Rnd 10: the base is 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
• After Rnd 28: the navy wall is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall above the base ridge, and the circumference is 15 in (38.1 cm).
• After the rim: the pocket is 4.8 in (12.2 cm) tall.
• Finished star: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide and tall.

If your base is too big, go down 0.5 mm; if it’s too small, go up 0.5 mm. Change hooks rather than stitch counts, because the rim repeat needs exactly 60 stitches.

If the star is larger than 3.75 in (9.5 cm), switch to a 3.25 mm hook so it fits inside the 4 in (10.2 cm) wall.

Pocket (Make 3)

Use navy and the 4.0 mm hook. Work in joined rounds: ch 1 at the start of each round (it doesn’t count as a stitch), and finish each round with a sl st into the first sc. Do not turn.

Base

• Rnd 1: Magic ring, 6 sc in ring. (6)
• Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
• Rnd 3: (Sc 1, inc) 6 times. (18)
• Rnd 4: (Sc 2, inc) 6 times. (24)
• Rnd 5: (Sc 3, inc) 6 times. (30)
• Rnd 6: (Sc 4, inc) 6 times. (36)
• Rnd 7: (Sc 5, inc) 6 times. (42)
• Rnd 8: (Sc 6, inc) 6 times. (48)
• Rnd 9: (Sc 7, inc) 6 times. (54)
• Rnd 10: (Sc 8, inc) 6 times. (60)

To keep the circle round instead of hexagonal, move the increases a few stitches to the side in alternate rounds. Checkpoint: the base is 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across and lies flat.

Walls

• Rnd 11: Sc in BLO of each st around. (60) This makes a ridge where the base turns up into the wall.
• Rnds 12–28: Sc in each st around. (60)

The walls are 18 rounds, Rnd 11 through Rnd 28. Checkpoint: the wall is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall. Fasten off navy. Place a marker at the round joins of Rnds 11–28; that line of joins is the back of the pocket.

The cream rim is worked in the Border section below.

Star Appliqué (Make 3)

Use cream and the 3.5 mm hook. The star sits on an 11 x 11 block grid, with columns numbered 1 to 11. You start at the widest arm row, work upward to the top point, then turn the piece over and work down from the foundation chain to form the legs. Every edge is shaped by decreasing only.

To decrease at the start of a row: turn and work (sl st in ch-1 sp, sl st in next dc) once for each block you skip, then ch 4.
To decrease at the end of a row: stop after the last block you need.

Upper half

• Row 1 (columns 1–11): Ch 26. Dc in the 6th ch from the hook; the skipped 5 ch count as the first dc, a ch-1 space and a base ch. Then ch 1, sk 1 ch, dc in next ch; repeat 9 more times. (11 blocks, 12 posts)
• Row 2 (columns 1–11): Ch 4, turn, dc in next dc. Then (ch 1, dc in next dc) across, ending in the 3rd ch of the turning chain. (11 blocks)
• Row 3 (columns 4–8): Turn, sl st across 3 blocks (6 sl sts), ch 4, then work 4 more blocks. Leave the last 3 blocks unworked. (5 blocks)
• Row 4 (columns 5–7): Turn, sl st across 1 block, ch 4, then work 2 more blocks. Leave 1 block unworked. (3 blocks)
• Row 5 (columns 5–7): Ch 4, turn, then work 2 more blocks. (3 blocks)
• Row 6 (column 6): Turn, sl st across 1 block, ch 4, dc in next dc. Leave 1 block unworked. (1 block)

Fasten off.

Lower half

Turn the piece upside down so the foundation chain is on top. You’ll work into the free loops of the chain, putting each dc into the same chain that holds a Row 1 post.

• Row 7 (columns 2–10): Skip the first block. Join cream at the base of the 2nd post, ch 4, and dc at the base of the next post. Then work 8 more blocks, leaving the last block unworked. (9 blocks)
• Row 8 (columns 3–9): Turn, sl st across 1 block, ch 4, then work 6 more blocks. Leave 1 block unworked. (7 blocks)

First leg

• Row 9: Ch 4, turn, then work 2 more blocks. Stop here; this leg is 3 blocks wide, and the rest of the row stays unworked. (3 blocks)
• Row 10: Turn, sl st across 1 block at the center edge, ch 4, work 1 more block. (2 blocks)
• Row 11: Ch 4, turn, dc in next dc. (1 block)

Fasten off.

Second leg

• Row 9: Skip the center block (column 6). Join cream at the next post, ch 4, then work 2 more blocks to the outer edge. (3 blocks)
• Row 10: Ch 4, turn, work 1 more block. Leave the center-side block unworked. (2 blocks)
• Row 11: Turn, sl st across 1 block, ch 4, dc in next dc. (1 block)

Fasten off.

The star is now 11 rows tall and 11 blocks wide: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) square at its outer points. In total it has 62 blocks.

Strap (Make 1)

Use navy and the 4.0 mm hook.

• Row 1: Ch 5, sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (4)
• Rows 2–100: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (4)

Checkpoint: the strap is 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and 22.2 in (56.4 cm) long. Leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.

Make All Pieces

• Navy: 3 pockets and 1 strap
• Cream: 3 rims and 3 stars

Layout (front view):

        [ P1 ]
   [ P2 ]    [ P3 ]

P1 sits centered above the gap between P2 and P3. Its base nestles 1 in (2.5 cm) below their rims.

Sew on the stars before joining the pockets. Center each star on the front of its pocket, opposite the back marker. The leg tips go on Rnd 13 and the top point on Rnd 26, leaving about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of navy above and below. Pin it in place. With a cream tail, whipstitch around the outer edge, taking one stitch per block side. Then tack each inside corner where posts meet so the mesh stays flat over the curve.

Joining

Use navy, a tapestry needle and whipstitch. Sew one stitch to one stitch: each pass of the needle catches one round-end or one stitch on each piece, so the seams stay flat and don’t pucker.

1. Join the bottom pockets. Stand P2 and P3 side by side, with their back markers facing you and their stars facing forward. On the sides where they touch, line up Rnds 17–24 (8 rounds). Whipstitch through one stitch per round on each pocket, 8 stitches in total. The seam is 1.8 in (4.6 cm) long.
2. Set the top pocket. Place P1 centered on the dip between P2 and P3, with its back marker toward the back. Its base ridge (Rnd 11) should sit level with Rnd 24 of the bottom pockets.
3. Sew P1 in place. At the back, whipstitch 6 stitches of P1’s ridge to 6 stitches of Rnd 24 on P2. Repeat with P3. That’s 12 stitches in total.
4. Add the strap. Fold the strap in half over the wooden ring. Whipstitch the two layers together through all 4 sts, 1 in (2.5 cm) below the ring. Each leg now hangs about 10 in (25.4 cm).
5. Attach the legs. Run each leg down the outer back side of P1. Tack it at P1’s Rnd 28, then at its Rnd 18. Sew the last 2 in (5.1 cm) of each leg flat to the outer back of P2 or P3, ending at Rnd 14.

Tension: pull each whipstitch snug enough that the pockets touch, but not so tight that the walls dimple. Stitch the strap through the navy walls only, never through the cream rim.

Checkpoint: the cluster is 9.5 in (24.1 cm) wide and 8.6 in (21.8 cm) tall. When you hold it up by the ring, it should hang level.

Border (Pocket Rim)

Rim gauge: each scallop covers 4 stitches, 1 in (2.5 cm) of the 15 in (38.1 cm) circumference, so each pocket has 15 scallops. Work the rim on each pocket before joining. Use cream and the 4.0 mm hook, and join cream at the back marker on Rnd 28.

• Rnd 29: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to the first sc. (60)
• Rnd 30: Ch 1, sc in next st, sk 1, 5 hdc in next st, sk 1; repeat 15 times. Sl st to the first sc. (15 sc + 75 hdc = 90 sts; 15 scallops)
• Rnd 31: Ch 1, rev sc in each st around, sl st to the first rev sc. (90)

Fasten off and weave in the ends. The rim is 0.8 in (2.0 cm) deep.

Why the math works: 60 stitches divide evenly by the 4-stitch repeat, giving 15 scallops with no partial repeat at the join. Rnd 30 works 1 sc and 5 hdc for every 4 stitches: 15 x 6 = 90. Rnd 31 works one stitch into each of those 90, so the rope twist follows the waves. Each pocket keeps its own complete rim, so joining adds no stitches.

Final Blocking

1. Fill each pocket with a toilet roll, or a rolled towel the same size.
2. Spritz the whole piece lightly with water until damp, not soaked.
3. Gently smooth each star flat, then pin the five points onto the wall so they’re even.
4. Run your fingers along each rim to separate the 15 scallops evenly.
5. Hang it by the ring, or lay it flat on a towel, and let it dry completely.
6. Remove the pins and check the measurements again.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

• Each base has 60 stitches and measures 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
• Each wall is 18 rounds, 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
• Each rim has 15 even scallops and 90 rev sc.
• Each star has all five points and measures 3.5 in (8.9 cm).
• The stars are centered with matching margins.
• The bottom seam is 8 stitches; the top pocket is held by 6 + 6 stitches.
• The strap is secured 1 in (2.5 cm) below the ring.
• The cluster is 9.5 in x 8.6 in (24.1 cm x 21.8 cm).
• All ends are woven in on the inside.

Troubleshooting

• The base ruffles: your tension is loose. Go down a hook size, or check that you have exactly 6 increases per round.
• The base cups upward: you’ve skipped an increase. Count each round.
• The walls flare out: you’ve added stitches by working into the joining sl st. Keep each round at 60.
• The scallops are uneven: you’ve lost the 4-stitch spacing. Count 15 repeats before you join.
• The star mesh looks slanted: make sure every dc goes into a dc, not into a ch-1 space.
• The star leg tips curl: tack each tip separately with cream.
• The cluster tilts: sew the strap legs the same distance from the rim on both sides.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat with the pockets reshaped. Don’t tumble dry.

Final Notes

The measurements build on each other. Each base is 60 stitches and 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across. The wall adds 18 rounds, or 4 in (10.2 cm). The 15-scallop rim adds 0.8 in (2.0 cm), for a 4.8 in (12.2 cm) pocket. Each 3.5 in (8.9 cm) star fits inside the wall with 0.25 in (0.6 cm) to spare. Three pockets joined in a triangle make a 9.5 in x 8.6 in (24.1 cm x 21.8 cm) cluster, hung from a 22.2 in (56.4 cm) strap and a single ring. If your measurements match at each checkpoint, the finished piece will match too.

Happy crocheting!