This cheerful pineapple keeps your plastic bags tidy and looks good on the wall. The body is covered in raised, staggered shells that look like pineapple skin, and a crown of pointed leaves sits on top. You stuff bags in through the crown and pull them out one at a time through the bottom cuff.
The sample uses mustard yellow for the body and sage green for the crown and strap. It also looks lovely in peach with a deep forest-green crown. Any warm fruit color with a leafy green works well.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide laid flat and 17 in (43.2 cm) tall including the crown. The strap adds a hanging drop of about 6.5 in (16.5 cm).
You work the body in joined rounds from the bottom opening up. The crown leaves grow directly out of the top rounds in two tiers. Then you sew on a simple strap and finish the bottom opening with a round of crab stitch.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat × 17 in (43.2 cm) tall, not counting the strap
- Skill level: Intermediate (adventurous beginner)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 body with crown worked on, plus 1 sewn-on strap
- Layout: Single tube that hangs vertically
- Body circumference: 12 in (30.5 cm)
- Body height before border: 13.25 in (33.7 cm)
- Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm), one round of crab stitch
- Crown height: 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds the shell texture crisply and helps the leaves stand up. Acrylic also works, but its leaves will be softer.
- Color A, Mustard Yellow (body): 150 g / 255 m
- Color B, Sage Green (crown and strap): 45 g / 77 m
These quantities include a margin of about 15% for your gauge swatch and small tension differences.
Tools:
– 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– 1 stitch marker
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Measuring tape
– Spray bottle and rust-proof pins for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- hdc: half double crochet
- dc: double crochet
- sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
- BLO: back loop only
- FLO: front loop only
- rev sc: reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rep: repeat
Shell: 5 dc worked into the same stitch.
Reverse sc (crab stitch): Work from left to right (right-handers). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops on the hook.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Sc gauge: 16 sc × 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Shell gauge: 4 shell repeats (24 sts) = 6 in (15.2 cm) wide, and 8 shell rounds = 5 in (12.7 cm) tall. Each repeat of 6 sts is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide, and each shell round is 0.625 in (1.6 cm) tall.
Test before you commit. Work Rounds 1–10 of the body, then measure. Treat this first section as your gauge test.
Checkpoints:
– After Round 3: The foundation ring measures 8 in (20.3 cm) around.
– After Round 4: The tube measures 12 in (30.5 cm) around, or 6 in (15.2 cm) laid flat.
– After Round 22: The body measures 12.25 in (31.1 cm) from the foundation edge.
– After Round 26: The body measures 13.25 in (33.7 cm).
– Upper-tier leaf: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall from base to point.
If your piece is too big, go down to a 4.5 mm (7) hook. If it is too small, go up to a 5.5 mm (I-9) hook. Recheck after Round 10. Getting the width right matters more than the height, because you can always add or remove shell rounds in pairs.
Body
Use Color A.
Foundation: Ch 32 and join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Make sure the chain isn’t twisted.
Round 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, then join with a sl st to the first sc. (32 sts)
Rounds 2–3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, then join. (32 sts)
These three rounds form the solid bottom cuff. Check that it measures 8 in (20.3 cm) around.
Round 4 (growth round): Ch 1, sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, and rep from * 16 times. Join. This round has (32 sts worked one per stitch) + (16 extra sts) = 48 sts. (48 sts)
Round 5 (shell set-up): Ch 1, sc in first st, skip 2 sts, shell in next st, skip 2 sts, sc in next st, and rep from * 7 more times, but omit the final sc on the last repeat. Join to the first sc. (8 shells + 8 sc = 48 sts)
Round 6 (staggered shell round): Sl st in each of the next 3 dc so you land on the center dc of the first shell. Ch 1 and sc in that same center dc. Shell in the next sc, sc in the center dc of the next shell, and rep from * around. End with a shell in the last sc, which is the first sc of Round 5 that you passed with the sl sts. Join to the first sc. (8 shells + 8 sc = 48 sts)
Rounds 7–22: Rep Round 6 sixteen more times. (48 sts in every round)
Each new shell sits in the sc between two shells below it, and each new sc locks into the top of a shell. This stagger creates the diagonal diamond “scales.” Because the sl sts shift the start point, the round joins drift slightly around the tube. That is expected and doesn’t show.
Checkpoint: Rounds 5–22 are 18 shell rounds, or 11.25 in (28.6 cm). With the 1 in (2.5 cm) cuff section, the body now measures 12.25 in (31.1 cm).
Round 23 (conversion round): Ch 1, hdc in each sc and sc in each dc around, then join. The hdc fill the low points between shells and level the edge. This round has (48 sts worked one per stitch) + (0 extra sts) = 48 sts. (48 sts)
Round 24 (decrease round): Ch 1, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog, and rep from * 12 times. Join. (36 sts)
Change to Color B by drawing it through on the final step of the join. Fasten off Color A and weave in its tail.
Round 25: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, then join. (36 sts) This leaves the 36 front loops of Round 24 free for the lower leaf tier.
Round 26: Ch 1, sc in each st around, then join. (36 sts)
Checkpoint: The body measures 13.25 in (33.7 cm), and the top opening measures 9 in (22.9 cm) around.
Crown: Upper Tier (6 leaves)
Work each leaf in turned rows over 6 sts of Round 26. Keep using Color B and don’t fasten off between leaves.
Leaf (upper tier):
– Row 1: Ch 1, sc in each of the next 6 sts. (6 sts)
– Rows 2–4: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (6 sts)
– Row 5: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog. (4 sts)
– Rows 6–8: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (4 sts)
– Row 9: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog twice. (2 sts)
– Rows 10–12: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (2 sts)
– Row 13: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog. (1 st)
– Point: Ch 2, then sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook.
Sl st evenly down the side edge of the leaf, working 1 sl st per row end (13 sl sts), back to Round 26. Sl st into the next unworked st of Round 26, then begin Row 1 of the next leaf in the following 6 sts. Take the slight shift into account so each leaf uses exactly 6 sts.
Make 6 leaves in total to use all 36 sts (6 leaves × 6 sts = 36). Each leaf is 13 rows of 0.25 in plus the point, or 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall. Fasten off.
Crown: Lower Tier (6 leaves)
Turn the holder upside down so the free front loops of Round 24 face you.
Count 3 sts to the left of where an upper leaf begins. Join Color B in the FLO of the 4th st. This offset puts each lower leaf between two upper leaves.
Leaf (lower tier):
– Row 1: Ch 1, sc in FLO of the next 6 sts. (6 sts)
– Rows 2–3: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (6 sts)
– Row 4: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc2tog. (4 sts)
– Rows 5–6: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (4 sts)
– Row 7: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog twice. (2 sts)
– Rows 8–9: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (2 sts)
– Row 10: Ch 1, turn, sc2tog. (1 st)
– Point: Ch 2, then sl st in the 2nd ch from the hook.
Sl st down the side (10 sl sts) and continue into the next 6 front loops. Make 6 leaves (6 × 6 = 36 loops). The last leaf wraps past the round join.
Each lower leaf is 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall. Because these leaves come out of the front loops, they flare outward and down, while the upper tier stands upright. Fasten off.
Strap
With Color B, ch 61.
- Row 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (60 sts)
- Row 2: Ch 1, turn, sc across. (60 sts)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strap measures 15 in × 0.5 in (38.1 cm × 1.3 cm).
Place one end 1 in (2.5 cm) down the inside of the crown, behind the base of an upper leaf, at stitch 1 of Round 26. Place the other end at stitch 19, directly opposite. Whipstitch each 1 in (2.5 cm) overlap firmly to Rounds 25–26.
That leaves 13 in (33.0 cm) of free strap, which hangs as a loop of about 6.5 in (16.5 cm) above the crown.
Border
This border is a single round of crab stitch around the bottom opening. It gives a firm, rolled edge that stands up to bags being pulled through it.
Border gauge: Crab stitch matches the sc gauge of 4 sts per in (2.5 cm) around.
Border Round: Hold the holder with the foundation edge on top. Join Color A in any remaining loop of the foundation chain. Ch 1 and work rev sc in each of the 32 foundation loops around. Join with a sl st. (32 sts) Fasten off.
The opening is round, so there are no sides or corners. The whole edge is one continuous run of 32 sts. Rounds 1–3 already have 32 sts, so you work one rev sc per stitch with nothing added or skipped.
Why the math works: At 4 sts per inch, 32 sts = 8 in (20.3 cm) around, which is exactly the size of the cuff. With no increases, the edge doesn’t ruffle. With no decreases, the opening doesn’t shrink below about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) across.
The border adds 0.25 in (0.6 cm), bringing the body to 13.5 in (34.3 cm). Add the 3.5 in (8.9 cm) upper leaves for a total height of 17 in (43.2 cm).
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends on the inside of the tube, following the direction of the stitches.
- Stuff the tube loosely with a rolled towel so it holds a 6 in (15.2 cm) flat width without stretching.
- Spray the body lightly until it is damp, not soaked.
- Gently press each shell with your fingertips so the fans sit evenly and the diamond lines run straight.
- Lay the holder on its side. Pin the upper leaves pointing straight up and the lower leaves angled outward at about 45 degrees.
- Mist the leaves. For a stiffer crown, brush the leaves with a mix of 1 part fabric stiffener to 2 parts water.
- Leave everything to dry completely, usually 12–24 hours, before removing the towel and pins.
- Measure again: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 17 in (43.2 cm) tall.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every shell round has 8 shells and 8 sc (48 sts).
- The shells alternate cleanly, with no two shells stacked directly on top of each other.
- Rounds 25–26 each have 36 sts.
- There are 6 upper leaves and 6 lower leaves, and the lower leaves sit between the upper ones.
- Every leaf has a neat chain-2 point.
- The strap ends are secure at stitches 1 and 19, opposite each other.
- The bottom opening has 32 crab stitches and lies flat without ruffling.
- No tail ends show on the outside.
Troubleshooting
Shells line up vertically instead of staggering: You worked a shell into a shell. Each shell must go into the sc of the previous round.
The tube is twisting: Check that you join every round and don’t spiral. Count 48 sts every few rounds.
Leaves flop over: Use cotton yarn, go down a hook size for the leaves only, or add stiffener when blocking.
The bottom opening is too tight for bags: Remove the border and work it with a hook one size larger.
Gaps at the top of the body: Round 23 must use hdc over the sc. Plain sc there leaves dips.
The strap stretches over time: Work a third row of sc for a sturdier 0.75 in (1.9 cm) strap.
Care
Hand-wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry flat with the leaves reshaped. Don’t tumble-dry, because heat softens the crown.
Final Notes
The measurements build on each other in this order:
1. 32 foundation sts give an 8 in (20.3 cm) cuff.
2. The growth round to 48 sts sets the 12 in (30.5 cm) body circumference.
3. 18 shell rounds add 11.25 in (28.6 cm) of height.
4. The decrease to 36 sts narrows the top for twelve 6-st leaves.
5. The 32-st crab-stitch border keeps the opening true.
If you check gauge after Round 10, the rest of the pattern follows. Your finished pineapple will be 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 17 in (43.2 cm) tall, ready to hang.
Happy crocheting!