This hanging plastic bag holder is a tall, sturdy tube covered in a deep basketweave texture. Raised blocks of front post stitches alternate with recessed blocks of back post stitches, so the surface looks like woven reed. Bags go in through the open top and come out one at a time through a small hole in the round base.
The sample uses one rich teal cotton. Cotton keeps the texture crisp and makes the fabric firm enough to hold its shape when the holder is empty. A wooden ring covered in crochet sits on a short tapered tab at the top back edge, so the holder hangs neatly from a cabinet hook or door knob.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across, 15 in (38.1 cm) around and 16 in (40.6 cm) tall, not counting the hanging ring.
The construction is simple and has no seams. You start with a flat dc base worked around a chain ring, which leaves the hole for the bags. Then you turn the edge upward with a back-loop round, work the basketweave body in joined rounds and finish with a firm single crochet rim. The tab is worked in rows off the rim, and the covered ring is sewn on last.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 4.75 in (12.1 cm) diameter, 15 in (38.1 cm) circumference, 16 in (40.6 cm) tall
- Width when pressed flat: 7.5 in (19.1 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate (front and back post stitches)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 body (base and tube in one) + 1 covered hanging ring
- Layout: Vertical tube with the ring at the top back
- Bottom hole: about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across
- Size before rim: about 15 in (38.1 cm) tall
- Rim depth: 3 sc rounds, about 0.75 in (1.9 cm)
Materials
Choose a smooth, tightly plied worsted cotton. Cotton shows post-stitch texture clearly and won’t stretch out under the weight of stored bags. Acrylic also works, but the holder will be softer and may sag.
- Teal: 200 g / 350 m (383 yd)
These amounts include about 20 percent extra. Post stitches use noticeably more yarn than plain dc, so don’t cut it close.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- 1 wooden or metal ring, 2 in (5.1 cm) inner diameter
- Stitch marker
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Spray bottle and a tall form for blocking: a bottle about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across, or a rolled towel
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
- RS – right side
Special stitches:
- FPdc (front post double crochet): Yo. Insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below. Yo and pull up a loop, then (yo, pull through 2 loops) twice. This stitch sits raised on the RS.
- BPdc (back post double crochet): Yo. Insert the hook from back to front to back around the post of the stitch below, then finish like a regular dc. This stitch sits recessed on the RS.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Basketweave gauge: 16 sts and 10 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm). Each round is about 0.4 in (1.0 cm) tall, so one 4-round band of blocks is about 1.6 in (4.1 cm) tall.
Sc gauge: 16 sts and 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Don’t skip the test. Work the base (Rounds 1–4) and the first band of basketweave (Rounds 5–9), then measure. This small cup is your swatch. If it measures correctly, just keep going and it becomes part of the holder.
Checkpoints:
- After Round 2: the base lies flat and is about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across.
- After Round 3: the base is about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across.
- After Round 9: the circumference is 15 in (38.1 cm), measured gently around the outside.
- After Round 17: the total height is about 5.5 in (14.0 cm).
- After Round 41: the total height is about 15 in (38.1 cm).
- After Round 44: the total height is 16 in (40.6 cm).
If your piece is too big, go down to a 4.5 mm (US 7) hook and start again. If it’s too small, go up to a 5.5 mm (I-9) hook. Change the hook size, not the stitch counts, because the basketweave needs a multiple of 6 stitches.
Body Pattern
Work in joined rounds with the RS facing you the whole time. Don’t turn. In the base rounds, the beginning ch 3 counts as a dc. In the post-stitch rounds, the ch 2 does not count as a stitch.
Base
Foundation: Ch 18 and sl st in the first ch to form a ring. Make sure the chain isn’t twisted.
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), then work 35 dc into the center of the ring, over the chain. Sl st to the top of the ch 3. (36 dc)
The 36 stitches bunch up the 18-chain ring. This keeps the bag hole firm and about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across.
Round 2: Ch 3, dc in the same st, dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 2 sts; rep from * 11 more times. Sl st to the top of the ch 3. (48 dc)*
Round 3: Ch 3, dc in the same st, dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next st, dc in the next 3 sts; rep from * 11 more times. Sl st to the top of the ch 3. (60 dc)*
Check: 12 repeats of 5 sts = 60. The base should lie flat at about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across. If it cups, your tension is too tight. If it ruffles, it’s too loose.
Round 4 (turning round): Ch 1, sc in the BLO of each st around. Sl st to the first sc. (60 sc)
The unworked front loops make a neat ridge around the bottom edge, and the fabric starts to turn upward into a wall.
Wall Foundation
Round 5: Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st around. Sl st to the top of the ch 3. (60 dc)
This plain dc round gives the post stitches something to wrap around.
Basketweave Body
Each block is 3 stitches wide and 4 rounds tall. Every round has 10 repeats of 6 stitches.
Round 6: Ch 2 (doesn’t count), FPdc around the next 3 sts, BPdc around the next 3 sts; rep from * 9 more times. Sl st to the first FPdc. (60 sts: 30 FPdc, 30 BPdc)*
Rounds 7–9: Ch 2, FPdc around the next 3 FPdc, BPdc around the next 3 BPdc; rep from * 9 more times. Sl st to the first st. (60 sts per round)*
That finishes Band 1: raised blocks over the FPdc columns and recessed blocks over the BPdc columns.
Round 10 (switch round): Ch 2, BPdc around the next 3 FPdc, FPdc around the next 3 BPdc; rep from * 9 more times. Sl st to the first st. (60 sts: 30 FPdc, 30 BPdc)*
Rounds 11–13: Ch 2, BPdc around the next 3 BPdc, FPdc around the next 3 FPdc; rep from * 9 more times. Sl st to the first st. (60 sts per round)*
That’s Band 2. The raised and recessed blocks have traded places, which creates the woven checkerboard.
Rounds 14–41: Repeat Rounds 6–13 three more times, then repeat Rounds 6–9 once more. (60 sts per round)
That makes 36 basketweave rounds in total, or 9 bands. Bands 1, 3, 5, 7 and 9 follow Rounds 6–9. Bands 2, 4, 6 and 8 follow Rounds 10–13.
Height check: 36 rounds × 0.4 in = 14.4 in (36.6 cm). Add about 0.75 in (1.9 cm) for Rounds 4 and 5, and the body measures about 15 in (38.1 cm).
Tip: Put a marker in the first stitch of each round. The joins will lean very slightly, which is normal for joined post-stitch rounds. Keep that join line at the back, where the tab will cover it.
Top Rim and Hanging Tab
The rim is the border of this holder. It steadies the open top and gives the ring a firm base.
Rim gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same width as the body.
Round 42: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Sl st to the first sc. (60 sc)
Rounds 43–44: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. Sl st to the first sc. (60 sc per round)
When you press the holder flat, the rim shows exactly 30 sc on each side (front and back). There are no corners to count. Fasten off after Round 44 and weave in the end.
Why the math works: The rim puts 1 sc in each of the 60 body stitches. At 4 sts per inch, 60 sc equals 15 in (38.1 cm), which is the same circumference as the basketweave. No stitches are added or removed, so the top doesn’t flare or pull in. Sc is shorter and denser than dc, so the opening feels firm. The 3 rim rounds add 0.75 in (1.9 cm), which brings the total height to 16 in (40.6 cm).
Hanging Tab
Flatten the holder with the round join centered at the back. Find the 10 sts at the center back of Round 44 and join the yarn in the first of them.
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 9 sts, turn. (10 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 6 sts, sc2tog, turn. (8 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (8 sc)
Row 4: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog, turn. (6 sc)
Row 5: Ch 1, sc in each st, turn. (6 sc)
Row 6: Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in the next 2 sts, sc2tog. (4 sc)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The tab narrows from 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide to 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and is about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
Covered Ring
Put a slip knot on the hook. Hold the yarn behind the ring and work sc around the ring, pushing the hook through the center each time. Work 40 sc, or as many as you need to cover the ring completely without crowding. Sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Pack the stitches snugly, then slide them around so they’re even and no wood shows. The covered ring is about 3 in (7.6 cm) across.
Attaching the Ring
Turn the sc so their ridges face outward. Place the covered ring above the tab so the last row of the tab touches the bottom edge of the ring. Use the tab tail to whipstitch the 4 sts of Row 6 to the ring, going through the covering stitches several times. For strength, add 2–3 more stitches from the back of the ring down into Row 5. Weave in the end.
Final Blocking
- Turn the holder RS out and press the base flat with your fingers.
- Slide the holder over a tall form about 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across, or stuff it firmly with a rolled towel.
- Mist it evenly until it’s damp but not wet.
- Gently ease it to 16 in (40.6 cm) tall, keeping the block columns straight up and down.
- Shape the bottom ridge and the top rim into smooth circles.
- Lay the ring flat against the tab and pin it straight.
- Let it dry completely, usually about 24 hours, before taking it off the form.
Never press post stitches with a hot iron. It flattens the basketweave texture.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The base rounds have 36, 48 and 60 sts, and every round after that has 60 sts.
- The bottom hole is round, not oval, and about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across.
- There are 9 bands of blocks, each 3 sts wide and 4 rounds tall.
- The raised and recessed blocks alternate cleanly in both directions.
- The circumference is 15 in (38.1 cm) along the full height.
- The rim lies smooth, with 30 sc on each flattened side.
- The tab is centered over the round join.
- The ring is fully covered and sewn on securely.
- The total height is 16 in (40.6 cm), not counting the ring.
- All ends are woven in on the inside.
Troubleshooting
The base cups like a bowl. Your dc are too tight. Relax your tension or use a 5.5 mm (I-9) hook for Rounds 1–3 only.
The base ruffles. Your dc are too loose. Use a 4.5 mm (US 7) hook for Rounds 1–3.
The checkerboard looks like stripes or columns. You missed a switch round. Count your rounds: the switch happens at Rounds 10, 14, 18, 22, 26, 30, 34 and 38.
The stitch count drifts. You probably worked into the ch 2 or skipped the first post. The ch 2 isn’t a stitch, so start each round with the first post stitch.
The tube gets narrower as you go. Post stitches tend to tighten over time. Check the circumference after every band, and pull each loop up to full dc height.
The ring flops forward. Add more stitches through the back of the ring into Rows 4 and 5 of the tab.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Press the water out in a towel, then dry flat or on the blocking form. Don’t use the dryer, because it can shrink cotton and distort the post stitches.
Final Notes
Here’s the full measurement chain. An 18-chain ring with 36 dc makes a 1.25 in (3.2 cm) hole. Three increase rounds build a 60-stitch base 4.75 in (12.1 cm) across. Sixty stitches at 4 sts per inch make a 15 in (38.1 cm) tube. Thirty-six basketweave rounds at 0.4 in (1.0 cm) each, plus the foundation rounds and the 0.75 in (1.9 cm) sc rim, bring the holder to 16 in (40.6 cm). Check each step as you go and your finished holder will match.
Happy crocheting!