This bag holder turns a pile of loose grocery bags into a tidy, cheerful wall piece. Six sunflower granny squares are joined into a tall tube. You push bags in through the top and pull them out one at a time through the narrower bottom opening.
The colors are deep teal and warm peach. Each square has a small teal center, a ring of 12 peach puff-stitch petals, and teal rounds that turn the circle into a square. Teal seam ridges frame every square, and peach rims finish both openings. The style is retro and homey, and it fits a kitchen, pantry, or laundry nook.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide when flat and 16 in (40.6 cm) long, plus a 3.5 in (8.9 cm) hanging loop.
Construction is simple. You make six squares, block them, and join them into a flat panel two squares wide and three squares tall. Then you seam the long edges together to make a tube. Last, you work the top rim, shape the bottom opening, and add the loop.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide flat × 16 in (40.6 cm) long; tube circumference 9 in (22.9 cm)
- Hanging loop: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 6 identical squares
- Layout: 2 squares around × 3 squares tall, closed into a tube
- Square size: 4.5 in × 4.5 in (11.4 cm × 11.4 cm)
- Tube size before the edging: 9 in (22.9 cm) around × 13.5 in (34.3 cm) tall
- Edging depth: top rim 1 in (2.5 cm); bottom shaping and rim 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape when the holder is stuffed full, and it shows the puff petals clearly. Acrylic works too, but it stretches a bit more over time.
- Color A, Teal: 90 g / about 153 m (167 yd)
- Color B, Peach: 35 g / about 60 m (66 yd)
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Blocking mat and rust-proof pins
- Spray bottle or steamer
These quantities include a margin of about 15% for gauge swatches and tension differences.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- BLO – back loop only
- sp(s) – space(s)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
Puff stitch (puff): [Yarn over, insert hook in the stitch, yarn over and pull up a loop to about 0.5 in (1.3 cm)] 3 times; you now have 7 loops on the hook. Yarn over and pull through all 7 loops, then ch 1 to lock it.
Beginning puff: Ch 2, then work the puff with only 2 repeats (5 loops on the hook), yarn over, pull through all loops, and ch 1.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Make one complete square first and block it before you start the others. Every later measurement depends on this square.
- Square gauge: one blocked square = 4.5 in × 4.5 in (11.4 cm × 11.4 cm)
- Hdc gauge: 16 hdc = 4.5 in (11.4 cm)
- Sc gauge (rims): 14 sc and 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
Round-by-round checkpoints (measured across, lying flat):
- After Rnd 1: 1.25 in (3.2 cm)
- After Rnd 2: 2.5 in (6.4 cm)
- After Rnd 3: 3 in (7.6 cm)
- After Rnd 4: 3.75 in (9.5 cm)
- After Rnd 5: 4 in (10.2 cm)
- After Rnd 6: 4.5 in (11.4 cm)
If your square is bigger than 4.5 in (11.4 cm), go down half a hook size. If it is smaller, go up half a hook size. A difference of 0.25 in (0.6 cm) per square adds up to 0.75 in (1.9 cm) over the height of the tube, so it’s worth fixing now.
Sunflower Square (Make 6)
Rnd 1 (A): Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc into the ring. Pull the ring closed. Sl st to the top of the beginning ch-3. Fasten off. (12 dc)
Rnd 2 (B): Join B in any st. Beginning puff in the same st, ch 2. Puff in the next st, ch 2; repeat from * around. Sl st to the top of the beginning puff. Fasten off. (12 puffs, 12 ch-2 sps)*
The ch-2 between puffs gives each petal room to sit upright and makes the sunflower look pointed.
Rnd 3 (A): Join A in any ch-2 sp. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), 2 hdc in the same sp. Work 3 hdc in each remaining ch-2 sp around. Sl st to the top of the beginning ch-2. (36 hdc)
The hdc fill in between the petals and frame them in teal. Don’t fasten off.
Rnd 4 (A), squaring round: Ch 4 (counts as tr). Work (tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in the same st for the first corner. *Dc in the next st, hdc in the next st, sc in each of the next 4 sts, hdc in the next st, dc in the next st, then (2 tr, ch 2, 2 tr) in the next st; repeat from * 2 more times. Dc in the next st, hdc in the next st, sc in each of the next 4 sts, hdc in the next st, dc in the next st. Sl st to the top of the beginning ch-4.
Each side uses 9 sts of Rnd 3 (1 corner st + 8 side sts), and 4 × 9 = 36. (48 sts: 12 per side, counting the 2 tr on each side of each corner; 4 ch-2 corner sps)
Rnd 5 (A): Ch 1. Sc in each st around, working (sc, ch 2, sc) in each ch-2 corner sp. Sl st to the first sc.
Count: 48 existing sts + 8 corner sc = 56 sc (14 per side, including the 2 corner sc), 4 ch-2 sps
Rnd 6 (A): Ch 2 (counts as hdc). Hdc in each st around, working (hdc, ch 2, hdc) in each corner sp. Sl st to the top of the beginning ch-2. Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.
Count: 56 existing sts + 8 corner hdc = 64 hdc (16 per side, including the 2 corner hdc), 4 ch-2 sps
Weave in all ends except the last tail. Block each square to 4.5 in × 4.5 in (11.4 cm × 11.4 cm) and let it dry before joining.
Make All Pieces
Make 6 identical squares in these colors:
- Rnd 1, Rnds 3–6: Color A (teal), 6 times
- Rnd 2: Color B (peach), 6 times
Layout (the squares in the left column form the front face, and the right column forms the back face):
Col 1 Col 2
Top [ S1 ] [ S2 ]
Mid [ S3 ] [ S4 ]
Btm [ S5 ] [ S6 ]
↑ left edge of Col 1 seams to right edge of Col 2 to close the tube
Joining
The seams are single crochet worked with the wrong sides together, so a neat teal ridge shows on the outside, as in the photo.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each square edge has 16 hdc plus a ch-2 corner sp at each end. Line the edges up stitch for stitch. With A, work 1 sc through both corner sps, 1 sc through each matching pair of the 16 hdc, and 1 sc through the next pair of corner sps. That’s 18 sc per square edge, worked through both layers. These seam stitches stay inside the seam. They don’t add any stitches to the rim counts later.
- Horizontal seams: Hold S1 and S3 with WS together and join along their shared edge. Without fastening off, continue straight across S2 and S4. Join S3/S5 and S4/S6 the same way. You have 2 seams, each 36 sc long.
- Center vertical seam: Join Col 1 to Col 2 from top to bottom. That’s 3 × 18 = 54 sc. Where you cross a horizontal seam, work the sc through all four corner layers.
- Closing seam: Fold the panel so the free left edge of Col 1 meets the free right edge of Col 2, WS together, and join in the same way (54 sc). The piece is now a tube.
Tension: Keep the seam stitches the same size as the hdc. If the seam is tighter than the squares, the tube will pucker; if it’s looser, the seam lines will ripple.
Checkpoint: Lay the tube flat. It should measure 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide and 13.5 in (34.3 cm) tall.
Border: Top Rim, Bottom Opening, and Loop
Edging gauge: 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). Each tube face shows 16 hdc. The rims are worked into those hdc only. The corner ch-2 sps are used up inside the seams, so skip them.
Top Rim (B)
Rnd 1: With RS facing, join B in the first hdc after the closing seam on the top edge. Ch 1. Sc in each of the 16 hdc across the top of the first square, skip the seam, then sc in each of the 16 hdc of the second square. Sl st to the first sc.
Count: 2 squares × 16 = 32 sc (16 per face)
Rnds 2–4: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to the first sc. (32 sc, 16 per face) Fasten off.
Why the math works: 32 sc at 14 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm) gives about 9.1 in (23.1 cm), which matches the 9 in (22.9 cm) tube. Four rounds at 16 rounds per 4 in make a rim 1 in (2.5 cm) deep.
Bottom Opening (A, then B)
Rnd 1 (A): Join A in the first hdc after the closing seam on the bottom edge. Work 16 sc per square as for the top rim. (32 sc, 16 per face)
Rnd 2 (A): Sc in the next 2 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * 8 times. (24 sc, 12 per face)*
Rnd 3 (A): Sc in the next 4 sts, sc2tog; repeat from * 4 times. (20 sc, 10 per face)* Fasten off A.
Rnds 4–6 (B): Join B. Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around, sl st to the first sc. (20 sc) Fasten off.
Why the math works: Six rounds at 16 rounds per 4 in (10.2 cm) give 1.5 in (3.8 cm) of depth. The 20-st opening is about 5.7 in (14.5 cm) around. That’s snug enough to hold the bags in, but you can still pull one out easily. Working in BLO gives the rim a ribbed texture.
Hanging Loop (A)
Lay the tube flat with Col 1 facing you. On the back face (Col 2), count to sts 7–10 of the 16 sts in the last top-rim round.
Row 1: With RS facing, join A in st 7. Ch 1, sc in sts 7–10, turn. (4 sc)
Rows 2–28: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (4 sc)
The strap is 7 in (17.8 cm) long and about 1 in (2.5 cm) wide. Fold it in half and sew the last row to the inside of the rim, directly behind Row 1. This gives a 3.5 in (8.9 cm) loop. Make several passes with the needle; this seam carries the full weight of the holder.
Final Blocking
- Mist the whole holder lightly with water.
- Lay it flat and smooth it to 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide and 13.5 in (34.3 cm) tall along the squares.
- Line up the seam ridges so they’re straight and run square to the edges.
- Shape both rims into neat curves. Don’t stretch the bottom opening.
- Pin the corners of each square lightly, and pin the loop flat.
- Let it dry completely, then fluff each puff petal gently with your fingertip.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- All 6 squares measure 4.5 in (11.4 cm) and have 16 sts per side.
- Each sunflower has 12 peach petals.
- The seam ridges are on the outside, straight and even.
- Flat tube: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide.
- Top rim: 32 sc, 1 in (2.5 cm) deep.
- Bottom opening: 20 sc, with a ribbed peach edge.
- Total length: 16 in (40.6 cm), plus a 3.5 in (8.9 cm) loop.
- All ends are woven in securely, and the loop is firmly attached.
Troubleshooting
- Petals lean or twist: Pull up each puff loop to the same height, and keep the ch-1 that locks each puff firm.
- Square cups up: Rnd 3 is too tight. Go up half a hook size for that round only.
- Square ruffles: Check that Rnd 3 has exactly 36 sts and that Rnd 4 starts each corner in the correct st.
- Rounds of the square spiral off-line: Sl st into the top of the beginning chain, not into the first stitch.
- Tube is too narrow: The seam stitches are too tight. Redo them more loosely.
- Rim flares out: Use a hook half a size smaller for the rim.
- Bags fall out of the bottom: Repeat Rnd 3 once more with a decrease every 5 sts. This brings the count down to 17 sts.
- Loop stretches: Make it 3 sc wide and work more tightly, or sew a strip of ribbon along the inside.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the extra water with a towel, and dry flat. Reshape the rims and petals while the piece is damp.
Final Notes
Every measurement in this holder follows from one blocked square. That 4.5 in (11.4 cm) square has 16 sts per side. Two squares around make a 9 in (22.9 cm) tube with 32 rim stitches, and three squares tall make 13.5 in (34.3 cm). The 1 in (2.5 cm) top rim and the 1.5 in (3.8 cm) bottom shaping bring the length to 16 in (40.6 cm). If your first square matches, the rest of the holder will come out the same size. For the reversed look in the photo, work the petals in teal and everything else in peach.
Happy crocheting!