Whisker Mesh Cat Plastic Bag Holder Crochet Pattern

This cat bag holder keeps loose grocery bags out of the drawer and on display. It’s a tall mesh tube topped with a solid, rounded cat head. You stuff bags in through the mesh and pull them out one at a time through the narrowed opening at the bottom.

The sample uses dusty denim blue for the head and body. Cream is used for the inner ears, muzzle, and paws, with small accents of pink and white for the nose, mouth, and whiskers. Black safety eyes finish the face. Soft peach with cream works just as well as a second colorway.

The pattern uses US crochet terms. The holder measures about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide when flattened and about 16 in (40.6 cm) long. The hanging loop adds about 2.5 in (6.4 cm), for a total hanging length of about 18.5 in (47.0 cm).

The holder is worked in one continuous piece from the top down. First you make the head in single crochet rounds, then switch to a dc-and-chain mesh for the body. A solid single crochet band finishes the bottom opening. The ears, muzzle, and paws are small appliqués that you sew on at the end.

Finished Size and Construction

• Finished size: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide flat × 16 in (40.6 cm) long, plus a 2.5 in (6.4 cm) loop
• Skill level: Easy / advanced beginner
• Terminology: US crochet terms
• Yarn weight: Worsted weight (#4) cotton
• Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
• Number of pieces: 1 main body (head, mesh, and band in one piece) plus 7 small appliqués (2 outer ears, 2 inner ears, 1 muzzle, 2 paws)
• Layout: One vertical tube, with the head at the top and the opening at the bottom
• Piece size: The head is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall, and the mesh section is about 11 in (27.9 cm) tall
• Size before border: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) flat width × 15 in (38.1 cm) long
• Border depth: The bottom band is about 1 in (2.5 cm)

Materials

Use a smooth cotton or cotton blend so the holder stays firm and the mesh holes stay square. Acrylic works too, but it stretches more under the weight of the bags.

• Color A, dusty blue (head, body, outer ears, loop): 100 g / 170 m (186 yd)
• Color B, cream (inner ears, muzzle, paws): 15 g / 25 m (27 yd)
• Color C, pink (nose and mouth): 2 g / 3 m (3 yd) of yarn or 6-strand embroidery floss
• Color D, white (whiskers): 1 m (1 yd) of embroidery floss or fine cotton thread

Tools: 4.5 mm (US 7) hook, two 10 mm black safety eyes, stitch markers, a tapestry needle, an embroidery needle, scissors, a measuring tape, and pins.

All quantities include a margin of about 15% for swatching and differences in tension.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch: chain
• sl st: slip stitch
• sc: single crochet
• dc: double crochet
• inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
• sc2tog: single crochet 2 together
• MR: magic ring
• sp: space
• st(s): stitch(es)
• rnd: round

Special stitch: mesh square. One dc plus ch 1 makes one mesh square. Each mesh square counts as 2 stitch positions: the dc and the ch-1 space.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Single crochet gauge: 16 sc × 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Mesh gauge: 2 mesh squares = 1 in (2.5 cm) wide, and 9 mesh rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.

Use the head as your test piece. It’s quick to make and shows your gauge before you start the long mesh body.

Checkpoints:

1. After Rnd 6 (36 sts): The flat circle measures about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) across.
2. After Rnd 18: The head is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide flattened and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
3. After 9 mesh rounds: The mesh section is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
4. Before the band: The tube measures 15 in (38.1 cm) from the top of the head.

If your piece comes out too big, go down to a 4 mm hook. If it’s too small, go up to a 5 mm hook. Don’t change the stitch counts, so the mesh repeat still divides evenly.

Pattern: Head (Color A)

Work in continuous spiral rounds and mark the first stitch of each round. When you flatten the head, turn it so this marker is at center back. Center front then falls between st 18 and st 19.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc 6 times. (18)
Rnd 4: Sc 2, inc 6 times. (24)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc 6 times. (30)
Rnd 6: Sc 4, inc 6 times. (36)
Rnds 7–18: Sc in each st around. (36 in each round)

That gives 18 rounds in all, so the head is 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.

Safety eyes: Insert the eyes between Rnds 11 and 12, with 6 sts between them, centered on the front. Lock the backs now, while you can still reach inside easily.

Sl st in the next st to smooth the end of the spiral. Don’t fasten off.

Pattern: Mesh Body (Color A)

From here on, work in joined rounds without turning.

Rnd 19 (mesh set-up): Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1) and skip the next st. Dc in the next st, ch 1, skip the next st, and repeat from * 16 more times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4.
Count: 18 dc + 18 ch-1 sps = 36 positions (18 mesh squares).

Rnds 20–43: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1). Dc in the next dc, ch 1, and repeat from * 16 more times. Join with a sl st in the 3rd ch of the beginning ch-4. (18 dc + 18 ch-1 sps = 36 positions in each round)

That makes 25 mesh rounds (Rnds 19–43), about 11 in (27.9 cm) tall. Each dc sits directly above the dc below it, so the holes stack into straight vertical columns.

Checkpoint: The tube measures 15 in (38.1 cm) from the top of the head and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide when flattened.

Border: Bottom Band (Color A)

Border gauge: The band uses the same gauge as the head, 16 sc × 18 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm). Each count below is split evenly between the front and back halves of the flattened tube.

Keep going from the last mesh round without fastening off.

Rnd 44 (conversion round): Ch 1. Sc in the same st as the join, then sc in the next ch-1 sp. Sc in the next dc, sc in the next ch-1 sp, and repeat from * around. Join with a sl st in the first sc.
Count: 18 sc in the dc + 18 sc in the ch-1 sps = 36 sc (18 front, 18 back).

Rnd 45 (shaping round): Ch 1. Sc 4, sc2tog 6 times. Join.
Count: 24 sc + 6 sc2tog = 30 sts (15 front, 15 back).

Rnds 46–48: Ch 1, sc in each st around, then join. (30 sts in each round: 15 front, 15 back)

Fasten off and weave in the end. The band is 5 rounds, or about 1 in (2.5 cm), deep. The opening is 3.75 in (9.5 cm) across when flattened.

Why the math works: Each mesh round has 36 positions: 18 dc and 18 spaces. Working one sc into each position gives exactly 36 sts, so the band won’t gap or pucker. Rnd 45 is 6 repeats of 6 sts (6 × 6 = 36) and removes 6 sts to reach 30. That narrows the opening just enough to hold the bags while still letting you pull them out one at a time.

Pattern: Ears

Outer ear (make 2, Color A): Worked in rows, starting at the tip.
Row 1: Ch 2, then sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. (1)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. 3 sc in the sc. (3)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. (3)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Inc, sc 1, inc. (5)
Row 5: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. (5)
Row 6: Ch 1, turn. Inc, sc 3, inc. (7)
Row 7: Ch 1, turn. Sc across. (7)

Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Each ear is a pointed triangle about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide and 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.

Inner ear (make 2, Color B): Work Rows 1–5 of the outer ear. (5) Fasten off. Center the inner ear on the outer ear with the bottom edges lined up, then whipstitch it in place.

Pattern: Muzzle (Color B)

Rnd 1: Ch 4. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook, sc 1, then 3 sc in the last ch. Working along the other side of the chain, sc 1, then 2 sc in the last ch. (8)
Rnd 2: Inc, sc 1, inc in each of the next 3 sts, sc 1, inc in each of the last 2 sts. (14)

Sl st in the next st and fasten off with a long tail. The finished oval is about 1.5 in × 1 in (3.8 cm × 2.5 cm).

With Color C, satin-stitch a small triangle nose, about 0.25 in (0.6 cm) wide, at the top center of the muzzle. Below the nose, add two short straight stitches in a shallow “w” for the mouth.

Pattern: Paws (make 2, Color B)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc 6 times. (18)

Sl st in the next st and fasten off with a long tail. Each paw is a flat circle about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across.

Hanging Loop and Assembly

Loop: Join Color A at the top center of the head, in the MR. Ch 20, then sl st back into the same spot. Work 28 sc over the chain loop and sl st in the first sc. Fasten off, and sew both ends firmly through the MR. The loop is about 2.5 in (6.4 cm) tall.

1. Ears: Flatten the head with the eyes facing forward. Pin one ear across Rnds 6–8 at each top side fold, leaving 8 sts of the head showing between the ears. Whipstitch along the bottom edge of each ear.
2. Muzzle: Center the muzzle below the eyes, over Rnds 12–16, and whipstitch around its edge.
3. Whiskers: With Color D, make 3 straight stitches on each side of the muzzle. Each should be about 1 in (2.5 cm) long, fanning slightly outward.
4. Paws: Pin one paw on each front side of the body, over mesh Rnds 20–22, just inside the side folds. Whipstitch each paw to the dc posts behind it.

Final Blocking

1. Mist the holder until it’s damp but not soaked.
2. Slide a rolled towel or a 3.5 in (8.9 cm) wide cardboard tube inside the body.
3. Straighten the mesh columns so the holes are square and line up.
4. Shape the head into a smooth dome and point the ears upward.
5. Let it dry for at least 12 hours before you hang it.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

• [ ] The head is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide flattened and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
• [ ] Every mesh round has 18 dc and 18 ch-1 sps, and the columns are straight.
• [ ] The total length is about 16 in (40.6 cm), not counting the loop.
• [ ] The band rounds have 36, 30, 30, 30, and 30 sts (Rnds 44–48).
• [ ] The safety eyes are locked tight.
• [ ] The ears, muzzle, and paws are evenly placed and securely sewn.
• [ ] The loop is sewn firmly through the MR.

Troubleshooting

• The mesh twists around the tube: Join each round in the 3rd ch of the ch-4, not the 4th.
• The holes are rectangles instead of squares: Your dc stitches are too tall. Use a smaller hook for the mesh only.
• The head looks pointed: Rnds 1–6 are too tight. Go up one hook size for the increase rounds.
• Bags slide out on their own: Add one more round of sc 3, sc2tog 6 times to bring the opening down to 24 sts.
• The loop stretches: Work a round of sl sts over the sc round.

Care

Take out the bags, then hand wash the holder in cool water with mild soap. Reshape it and lay it flat to dry.

Final Notes

Here is how the measurements connect. The 36-stitch head, at 16 sc to 4 in (10.2 cm), gives a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) flat width. The 18-square mesh keeps those same 36 positions, so the width stays the same through 11 in (27.9 cm) of mesh. Rnd 44 turns them back into 36 sc, one for one, and Rnd 45 eases the bottom down to 30 sts for a 3.75 in (9.5 cm) opening. If you check your gauge on the head and count each mesh round, the holder will finish at about 16 in (40.6 cm) long.

Happy crocheting!