This hanging toilet paper holder has one tall single crochet panel and three round baskets sewn to the front, one above the other. Each basket has a solid base and lower wall, then a band of stacked shells with small open triangles between the fans. The top edge is scalloped. Two narrow tabs at the top fold over a towel bar, so the holder hangs flat against the wall and keeps three spare rolls close at hand.
The sample uses one soft taupe (greige) yarn. A single neutral color shows off the texture and goes with brass, white, or wood fittings.
All instructions use US crochet terms. The finished panel measures 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide by 27 in (68.6 cm) long. The tabs add a loop of about 3.25 in (8.3 cm) above the panel, so the holder hangs about 30.25 in (76.8 cm) below the bar. Each basket is about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall.
Construction is simple. You crochet the panel in rows, add a two-round border, and work the tabs straight off the top edge. Then you make three identical baskets in joined rounds and sew them to the panel at marked rows.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished panel size: 6.5 in x 27 in (16.5 cm x 68.6 cm)
- Total hanging length: about 30.25 in (76.8 cm), including tab loops
- Skill level: Intermediate (rows, joined rounds, shells, sewing)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (US H-8)
- Number of pieces: 4 (1 panel with tabs attached + 3 baskets)
- Layout: 3 baskets stacked in a single vertical column
- Basket size: 5.75 in (14.6 cm) diameter x 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall
- Panel size before border: 5.5 in x 26 in (14.0 cm x 66.0 cm)
- Border depth: 2 rounds, about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on each edge
Materials
Yarn: Use a worsted weight cotton or cotton-acrylic blend. Cotton holds its shape in a humid bathroom and shows the shells clearly. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy yarn, because the baskets need firm walls.
- Taupe / greige (single color): 400 g, about 680 m (744 yd)
- Panel, border, and tabs: about 160 g / 272 m
- Three baskets: about 55 g / 94 m each, 165 g / 282 m total
- Sewing and margin: the rest
These amounts include a margin of about 20 percent, which covers your gauge swatch and seaming.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (US H-8) crochet hook
- Tapestry needle
- At least 4 locking stitch markers
- Scissors and measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a blocking mat or folded towel
- Spray bottle with water
- A toilet roll for shaping the baskets
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sl st: slip stitch
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO: back loop only
- MR: magic ring
- sk: skip
- st(s): stitch(es)
- rep: repeat
- rnd(s): round(s)
Special stitch (Shell): Work 5 dc in the stitch given. The third dc is the center dc.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in single crochet worked in rows.
Make one basket base (Rnds 1–12) before you start the panel. It is small, it tests your gauge in rounds, and it shows you whether a roll will fit.
Checkpoints:
- Base after Rnd 6 (36 sts): about 2.9 in (7.4 cm) across.
- Base after Rnd 12 (72 sts): about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across. Set a roll on it and check for about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) of space on each side.
- Basket after Rnd 20: the solid wall is about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall.
- Finished basket: about 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall.
- Panel after Row 18: 5.5 in (14.0 cm) wide and 4 in (10.2 cm) tall.
If your piece is too big, try a 4.5 mm hook. If it is too small, try a 5.5 mm hook. Change the hook, not the stitch counts. The shell repeat needs exactly 72 stitches, and the border math needs exactly 22 stitches and 117 rows.
Backing Panel
Ch 23.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (22 sc)
Rows 2–117: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in each st across, turn. (22 sc)
Do not fasten off. The panel should measure 5.5 in x 26 in (14.0 cm x 66.0 cm).
Placement markers: Count rows from the bottom (Row 1). Place a marker at the side edge of Row 10, Row 46, and Row 82. Each basket base will sit on one of these rows. They are 36 rows, or 8 in (20.3 cm), apart.
Panel Border
Border gauge: On the side edges you work into row ends. Rows are shorter than stitches are wide (18 rows vs 16 sts per 4 in), so you work 8 sc for every 9 rows. This keeps the sides flat.
Rnd 1: Do not turn. Ch 1.
- Top edge: 3 sc in first st, sc in each of next 20 sts, 3 sc in last st. (26 sc = 22 worked 1 per st + 4 extra at corners)
- First side: Working down the row ends, sc in each of next 8 row ends, sk 1 row end; work from * 13 times in all. (104 sc)
- Bottom edge: In the free loops of the foundation chain, 3 sc in first loop, sc in each of next 20 loops, 3 sc in last loop. (26 sc = 22 worked 1 per st + 4 extra)
- Second side: Rep the first side, working up. (104 sc)
- Sl st to first sc.
Rnd 1 total: 260 sts = (22 + 22 top and bottom sts worked 1 per st) + (104 + 104 row-end sc) + 8 extra corner sts.
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, working 3 sc in the center sc of each 3-sc corner group. Sl st to first sc.
- Top edge: 30 sts (26 worked 1 per st + 4 extra)
- Each side: 104 sts
- Bottom edge: 30 sts (26 worked 1 per st + 4 extra)
- Rnd 2 total: 268 sts = 260 worked 1 per st + 8 extra
Fasten off.
Why the math works: The 117 rows split into 13 groups of 9 rows. Each group gets 8 sc, so each side has 13 x 8 = 104 sc. At 4 sc per inch, 104 sc equals 26 in (66.0 cm), which matches 117 rows at 18 rows per 4 in. Because the edge stitches and the panel length agree, the sides do not ruffle or pull in. The extra stitches only turn the corners. The two rounds add about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on every edge, so the panel grows from 5.5 in x 26 in (14.0 cm x 66.0 cm) to 6.5 in x 27 in (16.5 cm x 68.6 cm).
Hanging Tabs
The top edge of Rnd 2 has 30 sts: 5 corner-area sts, 20 straight sts, and 5 corner-area sts. Work both tabs into the 20 straight sts.
Tab 1: With the front facing you, join yarn in the first of the 20 straight sts.
- Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st and in each of next 6 sts, turn. (7 sc)
- Rows 2–36: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (7 sc)
Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail.
Tab 2: Sk the next 6 sts. Join yarn in the next st (the 14th of the 20 straight sts) and work as for Tab 1. (7 + 6 + 7 = 20 sts)
Each tab measures 1.75 in (4.4 cm) wide by 8 in (20.3 cm) long. Do not sew the tabs down yet.
Basket (Make 3)
Work in joined rounds and do not turn. Each round starts with ch 1 (does not count as a st) and ends with sl st to the first sc. Joined rounds keep the shells lined up.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12)
Rnd 3: Sc 1, inc; rep around. (18)
Rnd 4: Sc 1, inc, work sc 2, inc 5 times, sc 1. (24)
Rnd 5: Sc 3, inc; rep around. (30)
Rnd 6: Sc 2, inc, work sc 4, inc 5 times, sc 2. (36)
Rnd 7: Sc 5, inc; rep around. (42)
Rnd 8: Sc 3, inc, work sc 6, inc 5 times, sc 3. (48)
Rnd 9: Sc 7, inc; rep around. (54)
Rnd 10: Sc 4, inc, work sc 8, inc 5 times, sc 4. (60)
Rnd 11: Sc 9, inc; rep around. (66)
Rnd 12: Sc 5, inc, work sc 10, inc 5 times, sc 5. (72)
The base should measure 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across.
Rnd 13: Sc in BLO of each st around. (72) The unworked front loops of Rnd 12 form a ridge where the wall turns up. You will sew through this ridge later.
Rnds 14–20: Sc in each st around. (72)
The solid wall is now 8 rounds, or about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) tall.
Rnd 21 (first shell round): Ch 1, sc in first st, sk 2 sts, shell in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * around. On the last rep, leave out the final sc and sl st to first sc. (12 shells + 12 sc = 72 sts)
Rnd 22 (offset shells): Sl st in each of next 3 dc to reach the center dc. Ch 1, sc in same center dc, sk 2 dc, shell in next sc, sk 2 dc, sc in center dc of next shell; rep from * around. On the last rep, leave out the final sc and sl st to first sc. (12 shells + 12 sc = 72 sts)
The new shells sit between the shells below, and the skipped dc leave small open triangles.
Rnd 23: Rep Rnd 22. (72 sts) These shells sit directly above the Rnd 21 shells.
Rnd 24 (scallop edge): Ch 1, sc in sc, sc in each of next 2 dc, 3 sc in center dc, sc in each of next 2 dc; rep from * around. Sl st to first sc. (96 sts = 72 worked 1 per st + 24 extra)
The 3 sc at each shell center form a firm pointed scallop. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Make All Pieces
You need:
- Backing panel with border and 2 tabs: 1, taupe
- Baskets: 3, taupe
Layout (front view):
[Tab] [Tab]
+--------------------+ Row 117 (top)
| [ Basket 3 ] | base at Row 82
| [ Basket 2 ] | base at Row 46
| [ Basket 1 ] | base at Row 10
+--------------------+ Row 1 (bottom)
All three baskets are centered across the panel width.
Joining
Method: Whipstitch with matching yarn and a tapestry needle. Cut a 36 in (91.4 cm) length for each basket.
Find the back: Flatten the basket slightly. Pick 18 sts of the Rnd 12 front-loop ridge for the back, which is one quarter of the 72-st round. Mark the first and last of these 18 sts.
Base seam (stitch-to-stitch): Line the basket up with its marked panel row. Skip the first 2 of the 22 original panel sts, then sew the 18 marked ridge loops to the 18 center panel sts, one loop to one stitch. Because both counts are 18, the base will not pucker or stretch.
Side seams: From each end of the base seam, sew straight up. Join the edge sts of Rnds 13–20 to the next 8 panel rows, one round to one row.
Top tacks: Tack the back of the shell band to the panel at the sc between shells in Rnd 23, using 2 or 3 small stitches at each point. Leave the shells free so the scallops stand out.
Tension: Pull each stitch just snug. If you pull too tight, the panel gathers behind the basket. Keep the panel flat on a table while you sew.
Tabs: Fold each tab over the bar onto the back of the panel. Sew the last row of each tab to the back, 1.5 in (3.8 cm) below the top edge. If the bar is fixed at both ends, sew the tabs with the panel already in place. Each loop stands about 3.25 in (8.3 cm) tall.
Size checkpoint: The panel should still measure 6.5 in x 27 in (16.5 cm x 68.6 cm), and each basket about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across.
Final Blocking
- Lay the holder flat, right side up, on a mat or folded towel.
- Pin the panel to 6.5 in x 27 in (16.5 cm x 68.6 cm), keeping the sides straight.
- Spray it lightly until it is damp, not soaked.
- Put a toilet roll inside each basket and shape the walls round and upright.
- Gently pull each scallop into a point and open the triangle spaces.
- Let it dry completely, about 24 hours.
- Take out the pins and rolls, then hang the holder.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Panel measures 6.5 in x 27 in (16.5 cm x 68.6 cm).
- Border sides lie flat, with 104 sts per side in Rnd 2.
- Tabs are 7 sts wide with 6 sts between them.
- Each basket has 72 sts in Rnds 12–23 and 96 sts in Rnd 24.
- Each shell round has 12 evenly spaced shells.
- Basket bases sit at Rows 10, 46, and 82, centered.
- Seams are firm and the panel does not pucker.
- A roll slides into each basket with a little room to spare.
- All ends are woven in securely.
Troubleshooting
Panel sides ripple: You worked too many sc into the row ends. Keep to 8 sc for every 9 rows.
Panel sides pull in: You skipped too many row ends. Recount each 9-row group.
Base cups before Rnd 12: Your tension is tight. Use a larger hook for the base.
Shells do not fit evenly: Count the round below. You need exactly 72 sts for 12 repeats of 6.
Roll will not fit: Check that the base is 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across. If it is smaller, remake it with a larger hook.
Basket leans forward: Add more tacks at the top of the shell band and along the side seams.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and gently press out the water. Lay flat to dry, and reshape the baskets around rolls.
Final Notes
Each measurement builds on the one before it. Gauge is 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). The panel is 22 sts by 117 rows, or 5.5 in x 26 in (14.0 cm x 66.0 cm). Two border rounds bring it to 6.5 in x 27 in (16.5 cm x 68.6 cm), with 104 sts on each side. Two 7-st tabs form 3.25 in (8.3 cm) loops. Each basket starts from a 72-st base 5.75 in (14.6 cm) across and finishes 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall. If you check every stage against these numbers, the holder will hang straight and the rolls will fit.
Happy crocheting!