This hanging holder keeps three spare rolls in sight and off the floor. A long, solid backing panel hangs from a towel bar on two tabs, and three round pockets with an open lattice hold the rolls in a neat column.
The sample is in sage green bulky cotton, which gives firm stitches and a calm, spa-like look. The pockets pair solid single crochet bands with a diamond lattice of chain bars, so the rolls show through. The panel is plain single crochet, so it doesn’t compete with the lattice.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished panel is 6 in × 18 in (15.2 cm × 45.7 cm), and the hanging loops add about 2 in (5.1 cm) above it. Each pocket is about 5 in (12.7 cm) across and 3.67 in (9.3 cm) tall.
You’ll work the panel in rows, add a two-round border, and work two tabs into the top edge. Each pocket is worked in joined rounds from a flat circle up. Then you sew the pockets to the panel, stitch to stitch.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: panel 6 in × 18 in (15.2 cm × 45.7 cm), about 20 in (50.8 cm) tall including the loops
- Skill level: Easy+ / confident beginner
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Bulky (#5)
- Hook: 6.0 mm (US J-10)
- Number of pieces: 4 (1 backing panel with attached tabs and 3 pockets)
- Layout: 1 column of 3 pockets
- Pocket size: about 5 in (12.7 cm) across, 3.67 in (9.3 cm) tall, 16 in (40.6 cm) around the rim
- Panel size before border: 5.33 in × 17.33 in (13.5 cm × 44.0 cm)
- Border depth: 0.33 in (0.8 cm) on every side
Materials
Use a bulky cotton or cotton blend at about 100–110 m per 100 g. Cotton holds the pockets’ shape and copes with bathroom humidity. Acrylic also works, but the pockets will be softer.
- Sage green: 275 g (300 m) in total
- Panel, border and tabs: 110 g (120 m)
- Each pocket: 55 g (60 m), so 165 g (180 m) for all three
These quantities include a margin of about 15%.
Tools
– 6.0 mm (US J-10) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– 4 locking stitch markers
– Pins or clips
– Tape measure
– One toilet roll, for testing fit and blocking
– Spray bottle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch: chain
- sc: single crochet
- dc: double crochet
- sl st: slip stitch
- sk: skip
- st(s): stitch(es)
- inc: 2 sc in the same stitch
- BLO: back loop only
- MR: magic ring
- ch-5 loop: the loop formed by 5 chains
Special stitch – Lattice loop: ch 5, then sc into the center of the next loop. Round after round, the loops offset and the chain bars run diagonally, forming the diamond openings.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 sc and 12 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc rows.
This square gauge (3 stitches and 3 rows per inch) is what makes the border math work, so check it before you start.
Test one piece first. Make one pocket before the panel. It’s the piece that has to fit a roll, and it checks your gauge in the round.
Checkpoints
– After Rnd 8: the base lies flat and is about 5 in (12.7 cm) across.
– After Rnd 11: the solid band is 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 15: the lattice adds about 2 in (5.1 cm).
– Finished pocket: 3.67 in (9.3 cm) tall and 16 in (40.6 cm) around the rim. A standard roll of about 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across slides in easily.
– Panel after Row 52: 5.33 in × 17.33 in (13.5 cm × 44.0 cm).
– Panel after border: 6 in × 18 in (15.2 cm × 45.7 cm).
If your pieces are too big, go down a hook size, to 5.5 mm. If they’re too small, or the roll fits tightly, go up to 6.5 mm. Don’t change stitch counts; all of the placement depends on them.
Pocket (Make 3)
Work in joined rounds. Join each round with a sl st to the first sc and start the next round with ch 1, which doesn’t count as a stitch. Keep the joins lined up; they become the center back of the pocket.
Base
Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
Rnd 2: inc in each st around. (12)
Rnd 3: sc 1, inc 6 times. (18)
Rnd 4: sc 2, inc 6 times. (24)
Rnd 5: sc 3, inc 6 times. (30)
Rnd 6: sc 4, inc 6 times. (36)
Rnd 7: sc 5, inc 6 times. (42)
Rnd 8: sc 6, inc 6 times. (48)
The base is now about 5 in (12.7 cm) across.
Solid Lower Band
Rnd 9: sc in BLO of each st around. (48)
This turns the work upward and leaves a ridge of unused front loops. You’ll sew along that ridge later.
Rnds 10–11: sc in each st around. (48)
The band is now 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
Lattice
Rnd 12: ch 1, sc in the same st, ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in next st 11 times, ch 2, sk 3 sts, dc in the first sc. (12 loops)
The ch 2 plus the dc makes the 12th loop and leaves your hook at its center. Check: 1 sc + 11 × (3 skipped + 1 sc) + 3 skipped = 48 stitches used.
Rnd 13: ch 1, sc around the post of the dc just made, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop 11 times, ch 2, dc in the first sc. (12 loops)
Rnds 14–15: repeat Rnd 13. (12 loops each)
The lattice adds about 2 in (5.1 cm). The chain bars should run diagonally and form diamonds.
Solid Rim
Rnd 16 (conversion round): ch 1, sc around the post of the dc. sc in next sc, 3 sc in next ch-5 loop 11 times. Sc in next sc, 2 sc in the remaining ch-2 part of the last loop, sl st to the first sc.
Count: 12 sc worked one into each existing sc, plus 36 sc worked into the 12 loops (3 per loop), for 48 stitches.
Rnd 17: sc in each st around. (48)
Fasten off and leave a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail for sewing.
The finished pocket is 3.67 in (9.3 cm) tall: 3 solid rounds (1 in), 4 lattice rounds (2 in) and 2 rim rounds (0.67 in).
Backing Panel
Ch 17.
Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (16)
Rows 2–52: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (16)
Check the panel: 5.33 in × 17.33 in (13.5 cm × 44.0 cm). Don’t fasten off.
Make All Pieces
There’s only one color, so here is the full count:
- Sage green: 1 backing panel with 2 tabs, and 3 pockets
Layout grid (panel rows, counted from the bottom):
Rows 44–52 top margin, 9 rows = 3 in (7.6 cm)
Rows 33–43 POCKET 3 (base seam Row 33, rim seam Row 43)
Rows 29–32 gap, 4 rows = 1.33 in (3.4 cm)
Rows 18–28 POCKET 2 (base seam Row 18, rim seam Row 28)
Rows 14–17 gap, 4 rows = 1.33 in (3.4 cm)
Rows 3–13 POCKET 1 (base seam Row 3, rim seam Row 13)
Rows 1–2 bottom margin, 2 rows = 0.67 in (1.7 cm)
Check: 2 + 11 + 4 + 11 + 4 + 11 + 9 = 52 rows.
Each pocket is 11 rows tall because 3.67 in × 3 rows per inch = 11.
Border
Border gauge: 3 sc per inch on every side. Because the panel gauge is square, 1 sc per row end sits flat along the long sides.
Rnd 1: continuing from Row 52, ch 1. Work the edges in this order:
- Top edge: 3 sc in the first st (corner), sc in the next 14 sts, 3 sc in the last st (corner).
- Side: sc in the row end of each of Rows 51 down to 2. (50 sc)
- Bottom edge: working into the foundation chain, 3 sc in the first ch (corner), sc in the next 14, 3 sc in the last ch (corner).
- Other side: sc in the row end of each of Rows 2 up to 51. (50 sc)
Sl st to the first sc.
Total: 20 + 50 + 20 + 50 = 140 sts.
Per side, counting both corner stitches:
– Top and bottom: 1 corner + 1 + 14 + 1 + 1 corner = 18 sts
– Long sides: 1 corner + 1 + 50 + 1 + 1 corner = 54 sts
Check: 2 × 18 + 2 × 54 − 4 shared corners = 140.
Rnd 2: sl st loosely in each st around. (140)
Fasten off. This round firms up the edge without adding real depth.
Why the math works: the border adds 0.33 in (0.8 cm) to each side.
– Width: 5.33 + 0.67 = 6 in, and 18 sts ÷ 3 = 6 in (15.2 cm).
– Length: 17.33 + 0.67 = 18 in, and 54 sts ÷ 3 = 18 in (45.7 cm).
The stitch counts and the measurements agree, so the edges won’t ruffle or pull in.
Hanging Tabs
The top edge has 18 stitches, corner to corner. Each tab uses 5 of them, with 8 left between: 5 + 8 + 5 = 18.
Tab 1:
– Row 1: with the right side facing, join yarn in the top-left corner st, working into the Rnd 1 stitches behind the slip stitches. Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 4 sts. (5)
– Rows 2–15: ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (5)
Fasten off and leave an 18 in (45.7 cm) tail.
Tab 2: skip the next 8 sts. Join in the next st and work as Tab 1, ending in the top-right corner. (5)
Each tab is 1.67 in (4.2 cm) wide and 5 in (12.7 cm) long.
Joining
Method: sew the pockets on with a whipstitch, using each pocket’s own yarn tail.
Prepare each pocket: flatten it lightly with the round joins at center back. Mark 8 sts on each side of the joins along Rnd 17, which gives 16 back rim stitches. Mark the same 16 stitches along the front-loop ridge of Rnd 9.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: the panel body is 16 columns wide inside the border, and the back of each pocket is 16 stitches wide. Sew one pocket stitch to one panel column, all the way across.
- Pin the Rnd 9 ridge across the panel along that pocket’s base-seam row: Row 3, Row 18 or Row 33.
- Whipstitch the 16 ridge stitches to the 16 columns of that row.
- Pin the 16 back rim stitches of Rnd 17 along the rim-seam row: Row 13, Row 28 or Row 43.
- Whipstitch those 16 stitches to the 16 columns of that row.
- Tack each side edge of the solid bands to the panel with 2–3 stitches so the pocket stays upright.
The other 32 pocket stitches curve out in front and form a cup about 5.33 in (13.5 cm) wide where it meets the panel.
Tension: pull each stitch snug but not tight. The seam should lie flat. If the panel puckers, take the stitches out and sew more loosely.
Size checkpoint: after all three pockets are on, the panel still measures 6 in × 18 in (15.2 cm × 45.7 cm). The gaps between pockets are 1.33 in (3.4 cm), and a roll in each pocket clears the pocket above it.
Tabs: fold each tab to the back over your bar. Whipstitch Row 15 to the back of the panel at Row 50, 1 in (2.5 cm) below the top edge. This leaves a loop about 2 in (5.1 cm) deep. On a fixed bar, sew the tabs with the holder already in place.
Final Blocking
- Put a toilet roll in each pocket so it holds a round shape.
- Lay the holder flat, pockets up, and pin the panel to 6 in × 18 in (15.2 cm × 45.7 cm).
- Mist the whole piece until it’s damp, not soaked.
- Pat the lattice so the diamonds open evenly and the chain bars run diagonally.
- Straighten each rim so it’s level.
- Let it dry completely, at least 24 hours, before taking out the rolls and pins.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- [ ] Each pocket has 48 sts in Rnds 8–11 and 16–17, and 12 loops in Rnds 12–15
- [ ] Each pocket is 3.67 in (9.3 cm) tall
- [ ] The panel has 16 sts × 52 rows before the border
- [ ] Border Rnd 1 has 140 sts: 18 per short side and 54 per long side, corners included
- [ ] The tabs are 5 sts each with an 8-st gap between them
- [ ] The pocket seams sit on Rows 3/13, 18/28 and 33/43
- [ ] All round joins face the panel
- [ ] All ends are woven in securely
Troubleshooting
- The base cups or ruffles: your gauge is off. Cupping means it’s too tight and ruffling means it’s too loose. Change hook size, not stitch counts.
- The lattice looks baggy: chain more tightly, or try ch 4 loops. You’ll still have 12 loops and 48 sts in Rnd 16.
- Rnd 16 doesn’t come to 48: make sure you worked 3 sc into every loop, including the split last loop (1 sc around the dc post and 2 sc in the ch-2).
- The long sides wave: your row gauge is taller than your stitch gauge. Pull out the border and work Rnd 1 with 3 sc for every 4 row ends.
- The pockets lean forward: add more tacking stitches along the sides of the solid bands.
- The tabs stretch: sew the overlap with a second line of whipstitch.
Care
Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry, with a roll in each pocket to keep the shape. Don’t tumble dry, because cotton can shrink and lose its shape.
Final Notes
Each measurement depends on the one before it:
- Gauge of 12 sc × 12 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- A 48-st pocket, 16 in (40.6 cm) around and 3.67 in (9.3 cm) tall
- A panel of 16 sts × 52 rows, 5.33 in × 17.33 in (13.5 cm × 44.0 cm)
- A 140-st border that brings the panel to 6 in × 18 in (15.2 cm × 45.7 cm)
- 16-stitch seams that match the panel’s 16 columns
If you check each stage, the holder will hang straight and hold three rolls.
Happy crocheting!