A crocheted butterfly ornament with blue-gray wings, cream body, and white accents on a beige linen background.

Bluebell Butterfly Wall Organizer Crochet Pattern

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This butterfly hangs on the wall and holds things. It has two ribbed fan wings, two deep pocket baskets as the lower wings, and a stuffed body made of four balls with a tapered tail. A cream loop hangs it from any hook. Roll washcloths into the pockets for a bathroom, or use them for hair ties, small toys or craft supplies.

The sample uses dusty denim blue for the wings and pockets and cream for the body and strap. The soft blue and warm cream suit a calm, cottage-style bathroom or nursery. Bulky yarn makes the piece firm, so the pockets keep their shape when they’re full.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The organizer is about 11 in (27.9 cm) wide and 11 in (27.9 cm) tall, plus a hanging loop of about 7.5 in (19.1 cm).

How it’s built: You make each wing as a half-circle fan, worked in rows from a magic ring with raised post-stitch ribs, then finish it with a shaping row and a single crochet border. The pockets are worked in rounds from a flat base. The body is worked in one piece from the tail up to the top ball. You then sew everything together and add the strap.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 11 in × 11 in (27.9 × 27.9 cm), excluding the loop
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: Bulky (#5)
  • Hook: 6 mm (J-10)
  • Number of pieces: 6 (2 wings, 2 pockets, 1 body, 1 strap)
  • Layout: The wings meet edge to edge at the center, the body covers that seam, and the pockets sit over the lower half of the wings
  • Wing size: 10 in (25.4 cm) along the straight edge × 5.5 in (14.0 cm) at the widest point
  • Wing size before border: 9.5 in (24.1 cm) along the straight edge
  • Border depth: 0.25 in (0.6 cm), one round of single crochet
  • Pocket size: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across × 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall
  • Body length: 10 in (25.4 cm); each ball is about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across

Materials

Yarn: Use a smooth bulky acrylic or cotton blend. A plied yarn shows the post-stitch ribs clearly. Avoid fuzzy yarn, because it hides the ribs and the pocket columns.

  • Color A, denim blue: 150 g / 180 m (197 yd) for the wings and pockets
  • Color B, cream: 40 g / 48 m (52 yd) for the body and strap

These amounts include a margin of about 20%.

Tools:
– 6 mm (J-10) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– About 20 g of polyester fiberfill
– Stitch markers
– Straight pins
– Scissors
– Measuring tape

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • tr – treble crochet
  • inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
  • dec – sc2tog (single crochet 2 together)
  • BLO – back loop only
  • MR – magic ring
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • RS / WS – right side / wrong side

Special stitches:
– FPdc (front post double crochet): Yarn over and insert the hook from front to back to front around the post of the stitch below. Finish as a regular dc.
– BPdc (back post double crochet): Yarn over and insert the hook from back to front to back around the post. Finish as a regular dc. On WS rows, a BPdc pushes the post toward the RS, so the ribs stay raised on the front.

Gauge and Checkpoints

  • Double crochet: 11 sts and 7 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)
  • Single crochet: 12 sts and 13 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm)

Make one wing first and use it as your gauge test. Check these measurements as you go:

  • After Wing Row 7: The straight edge measures 9 in (22.9 cm) and the piece lies flat as a half circle.
  • After Wing Row 8: The straight edge measures 9.5 in (24.1 cm).
  • After the wing border: The straight edge measures 10 in (25.4 cm).
  • Pocket base (Round 7): 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across.
  • Body: Each stuffed ball is about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across.

If your pieces come out more than 0.5 in (1.3 cm) too big, go down to a 5.5 mm hook. If they come out too small, go up to a 6.5 mm hook. If the fan ruffles, your dc stitches are too loose. If it cups, they’re too tight.

Close-up of slate blue and cream crochet pieces with detailed stitch texture against a soft, neutral background.

Upper Wings (Make 2, Color A)

Turning chains don’t count as stitches.

Row 1 (RS): Make a MR. Ch 2, then work 6 dc into the ring. Pull the ring closed, then turn. (6 sts)

Row 2 (WS): Ch 2, then 2 dc in each st across. Turn. (12 sts)

Row 3 (RS): Ch 2, then repeat (FPdc around the next st, 2 dc in the next st) 6 times. Turn. (18 sts)

Row 4 (WS): Ch 2, then repeat (dc in the next st, 2 dc in the next st, BPdc around the next st) 6 times. Turn. (24 sts)

Row 5 (RS): Ch 2, then repeat (FPdc around the next st, dc in the next 2 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 6 times. Turn. (30 sts)

Row 6 (WS): Ch 2, then repeat (dc in the next 3 sts, 2 dc in the next st, BPdc around the next st) 6 times. Turn. (36 sts)

Row 7 (RS): Ch 2, then repeat (FPdc around the next st, dc in the next 4 sts, 2 dc in the next st) 6 times. Turn. (42 sts)

That gives you six raised ribs spreading out from the ring. Each RS row starts on top of a rib, so every post stitch lands on the post stitch below it.

Row 8 (WS, shaping row): This row builds the smooth outer band and the wing lobe. You work into all 42 sts and add 6 extra sts, for 48 sts.

  • Wing A: Ch 1. Sc in the next 8 sts, hdc in the next 6, dc in the next 6, 2 tr in each of the next 6, dc in the next 6, hdc in the next 5, sc in the last 5. (48 sts)
  • Wing B (mirror image): Ch 1. Sc in the next 5 sts, hdc in the next 5, dc in the next 6, 2 tr in each of the next 6, dc in the next 6, hdc in the next 6, sc in the last 8. (48 sts)

Don’t fasten off. Go straight on to the border.

Lay both wings RS up with the straight edges facing each other. On each wing, the 8-sc end goes at the bottom and the lobe points up and out. If both lobes point the same way, you made the same version twice.

Pockets (Make 2, Color A)

Work in continuous spirals and move a marker up to the first st of each round.

Round 1: 6 sc in a MR. (6 sts)

Round 2: Inc in each st around. (12 sts)

Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) 6 times. (18 sts)

Round 4: (Sc 2, inc) 6 times. (24 sts)

Round 5: (Sc 3, inc) 6 times. (30 sts)

Round 6: (Sc 4, inc) 6 times. (36 sts)

Round 7: (Sc 5, inc) 6 times. (42 sts)

Checkpoint: the base measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm) across.

Round 8 (turning round): Sc in the BLO of each st around. That’s 42 sts worked one into each existing st, plus 0 added. (42 sts) The unused front loops make a crisp fold, and the sides start to rise from here.

Rounds 9–21: Sc in each st around, for 13 rounds. (42 sts each round) The stacked sc build vertical columns up the sides.

Round 22 (rim): Sl st loosely in each st around. That’s 42 sts worked one into each existing st, plus 0 added. (42 sts) Fasten off and leave a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail for sewing.

Checkpoint: the pocket is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall from the fold to the rim.

Body (Make 1, Color B)

Work in continuous spirals from the tail tip up. Stuff firmly as you go.

Tail:
– Round 1: 4 sc in a MR. (4)
– Round 2: Sc around. (4)
– Round 3: (Sc 1, inc) 2 times. (6)
– Round 4: Sc around. (6)
– Round 5: (Sc 1, inc) 3 times. (9)
– Round 6: Sc around. (9)
– Round 7: (Sc 2, inc) 3 times. (12)
– Rounds 8–9: Sc around. (12)
– Round 10: Dec 6 times. (6) Stuff the tail.

Ball (work 4 times):
– Round a: Inc in each st. (12)
– Round b: (Sc 1, inc) 6 times. (18)
– Round c: Sc around. (18)
– Round d: (Sc 1, dec) 6 times. (12)
– Round e: Dec 6 times. (6) Stuff the ball.

The four balls take up Rounds 11–30. Each ball closes down to 6 sts, which makes the pinched waist between balls. After Round 30, fasten off, weave the tail through the 6 front loops, and pull it closed.

Checkpoint: the body measures 10 in (25.4 cm) long.

Hanging Strap (Make 1, Color B)

Ch 51. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (50 sts) Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. The strap measures about 16.75 in (42.5 cm).

Make All Pieces

  • Color A: 2 wings (one Wing A, one Wing B), each with its border; 2 pockets
  • Color B: 1 body, 1 strap

Layout as seen from the front:

          [ strap loop ]
[ Wing B ][ head ball  ][ Wing A ]
[ Wing B ][ ball 2     ][ Wing A ]
[Pocket ][ ball 3/4   ][ Pocket ]
[Pocket ][ tail       ][ Pocket ]

Joining

Wings: Lay both wings RS up and push the straight edges together. Each straight edge has 30 border sc. Whipstitch through both loops, matching each sc to the sc opposite it, for 30 stitches. Don’t add any stitches at the seam. Keep the seam firm but not tight, so the wings stay flat.

Body: Center the body over the seam with the top of the head ball level with the top of the wings. Pin it in place. Sew through the back of each ball and the tail into the seam stitches underneath, about every 0.5 in (1.3 cm).

Pockets: Measure 6.5 in (16.5 cm) down from the top of the wings and pin each pocket rim at that level, with the inner side of the pocket touching the tail. Whipstitch the center 14 sts of the back rim to the wing. Then sew straight down the back center of the pocket until you reach the wing’s lower border. Tack 3 sts on the inner side of each pocket to the tail so the pockets don’t pull away from the body.

Strap: Fold the strap in half. Overlap each end 1 in (2.5 cm) behind the head ball and sew it through the wing seam. This leaves a loop about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) tall.

Size checkpoint: The organizer measures 11 in (27.9 cm) across the wings. Across the pockets it’s about 10.2 in (25.9 cm): two 4.5 in (11.4 cm) pockets plus the tail between them. The pockets hang 1 in (2.5 cm) below the bottom edge of the wings.

Border

You work this round on each wing right after Row 8, before any joining. It uses the single crochet gauge of 12 sts per 4 in (10.2 cm), or 3 sc per inch.

Round 9 (RS side of the edging): Ch 1 and turn so the RS faces you.

  • Curved edge: Work 3 sc in the first st, then sc in each of the next 46 sts, then 3 sc in the last st. That’s 48 sts worked one into each existing st, plus 4 added at the two corners. (52 sts)
  • Straight edge: Work 2 sc into the end of each dc row (Rows 7 down to 1, along one half). Work 1 sc into the end of Row 8 on each side. Then work 2 sc into each dc row end along the other half (Rows 1 up to 7). That’s (14 + 1) × 2. (30 sts)

Join with a sl st to the first sc. Total: 82 sts.

Why the math works:
– One dc row is about as tall as 2 sc are wide. Two sc per dc row end therefore keeps the straight edge flat.
– The 30 sc at 3 sc per inch give 10 in (25.4 cm), which matches the checkpoint.
– The 4 extra corner sts turn the corners cleanly, and they’re counted only once, in the curved-edge total.
– Each wing is bordered on its own, so the 30-st edges join 1-to-1 with nothing added at the seam.

Final Blocking

  1. Spray the wings until they’re damp, or steam them lightly from above without touching them with the iron (for acrylic yarn).
  2. Pin each wing to a 10 in × 5.5 in (25.4 × 14.0 cm) outline. Keep the straight edge straight and the lobe rounded.
  3. Pinch each rib gently so it stands up.
  4. Fill each pocket with a rolled towel so it dries round, and steam the sides.
  5. Let everything dry completely before you sew it together.
  6. After joining, steam the strap lightly so it hangs straight.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • Each wing has six ribs, all raised on the RS
  • Wing A and Wing B are mirror images, with both lobes pointing up and out
  • Each wing border has 82 sc, with 30 along the straight edge
  • Each pocket wall has 42 sts and a crisp fold where the base turns up
  • The body is firmly stuffed with four even balls and a pointed tail
  • The pocket rims sit 6.5 in (16.5 cm) below the top of the wings and hang level
  • The strap is sewn securely through the wing seam
  • All yarn ends are woven in on the back

Troubleshooting

  • Ribs zigzag: You started a row with the wrong stitch. Every RS row begins with an FPdc on top of a rib.
  • Ribs disappear on the front: You used FPdc on a WS row. WS rows need BPdc.
  • Wing ruffles: Your dc stitches are too loose. Go down one hook size.
  • Pocket flares open: Your wall stitches are loose. Go down 0.5 mm for Rounds 9–21.
  • Pocket sags forward: Extend the vertical seam down the back of the pocket.
  • Balls look lumpy: Stuff each ball before you close it, using small pieces of fiberfill.
  • Organizer tilts: Move the strap ends so they’re centered on the seam.

Care

Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry. Shape the pockets around rolled towels while they dry.

Blue crocheted butterfly with cream rope and white accents hangs from a silver hook on a white subway tile wall.

Final Notes

Here’s the measurement chain:

  • Gauge: 11 dc and 7 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)
  • Wings: The straight edge is 9 in (22.9 cm) after Row 7, 9.5 in (24.1 cm) after Row 8, and 10 in (25.4 cm) after the 30-st border
  • Pockets: 42 sts give a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) base and walls 4.5 in (11.4 cm) tall
  • Body: 10 in (25.4 cm) long
  • Assembled: The wings join 1-to-1 for a finished size of 11 in × 11 in (27.9 × 27.9 cm)

If each checkpoint matches, the butterfly comes out balanced and ready to hang.

Happy crocheting!

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