Sage Garden Pearl Flower Strand Curtain Crochet Pattern

This strand curtain brings a soft garden feel to a window. Each strand alternates open-petal flowers and fern sprigs, with glossy ivory pearls in between, and ends in a full tassel. Light still passes through the gaps, so the room stays bright.

The palette is simple: one sage green cotton yarn and ivory pearl beads. Neighboring strands are offset, so a flower always hangs beside a leaf. From across the room this gives a gentle checkerboard rhythm. The pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.

Each strand hangs 84.5 in (214.6 cm) below the rod. One panel has 8 strands and is 31.5 in (80.0 cm) wide. The curtain is a matching pair of panels, 16 strands in total.

You crochet the flowers and leaves separately. Then you chain a cord with pearls pre-strung on the yarn, and join each motif to the cord as you go. A sturdy rod loop starts each strand, and a tassel ends it.

Finished Size and Construction

• Finished drop: 84.5 in (214.6 cm) from rod to tassel tip
• Panel width: 31.5 in (80.0 cm); a pair covers 63 in (160.0 cm)
• Skill level: Intermediate (simple stitches, lots of repetition)
• Terminology: US
• Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton
• Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
• Number of pieces: 16 strands (2 panels × 8), each with 7 flowers and 7 leaves
• Layout: Strands A and B alternate across each panel
• Piece size: Flower 3.5 in (8.9 cm); leaf 4.75 × 2 in (12.1 × 5.1 cm)
• Size before border: Strand body (lead chain plus 7 repeats) is 78 in (198.1 cm)
• Border depth: Rod loop 2.5 in (6.4 cm) at the top, tassel 4 in (10.2 cm) at the bottom

Materials

Yarn: Use a smooth, mercerized or combed worsted-weight cotton, about 180 m per 100 g. Cotton holds the open petal shape and doesn’t stretch much under the weight of the pearls. Avoid acrylic here, because long hanging strands of acrylic tend to grow.

• Sage green: 800 g / 1,440 m (1,575 yd). That is about 73 m per strand, including the tassel.

These quantities include a margin of about 20% for gauge swatches and tassel trimming.

Beads and tools:

• 470 ivory pearl beads, 10 mm, with holes of at least 2 mm (you need 448)
• 820 ivory pearl beads, 4 mm, for the flower centers (you need 784)
• 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
• Big-eye beading needle or dental-floss threader, for pre-stringing pearls
• Ivory sewing thread and a fine needle
• Tapestry needle
• 4.5 in (11.4 cm) cardboard rectangle, for the tassels
• Scissors, tape measure, rust-proof pins
• Curtain rod up to 1.5 in (3.8 cm) in diameter

Abbreviations (US Terms)

• ch – chain
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• hdc – half double crochet
• dc – double crochet
• sk – skip
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sp – space
• Rnd – round
• WS – wrong side

Special stitches

• Leaflet (lflt): Ch 5, sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in last ch. This makes 4 sts on a 5-ch stalk.
• Bead chain (bch): Slide one pre-strung 10 mm pearl up against the hook, then yarn over and pull through. The pearl is now locked inside that chain.
• Pearl unit (PU): Ch 2, bch, ch 2, bch, ch 2. This makes 8 chains, 2 of them holding pearls, and measures 2 in (5.1 cm).

Gauge and Checkpoints

Test one flower, one leaf and a short cord before you commit to 16 strands.

• Chain gauge: 5 ch = 1 in (2.5 cm), so 20 ch = 4 in (10.2 cm)
• Flower, after Rnd 1: 1.25 in (3.2 cm)
• Flower, after Rnd 3: 3 in (7.6 cm)
• Flower, after Rnd 4: 3.5 in (8.9 cm)
• Leaf: 4.75 in (12.1 cm) long, 2 in (5.1 cm) wide
• Pearl unit: 2 in (5.1 cm)

If your pieces come out too big, go down to a 3.75 mm hook. If they come out too small, go up to a 4.5 mm hook.

Chain gauge matters most, because it sets the strand length. Every 0.25 in (0.6 cm) of error per repeat adds up to 1.75 in (4.4 cm) over a full strand.

Flower (make 112)

Rnd 1: Ch 6 and sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Ch 1, then work 15 sc into the ring. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (15 sc)

Rnd 2: Ch 1. Sc in the same st as the join. *Ch 10, sk 2 sts, sc in next st.* Repeat from * 3 more times. Ch 10, sk 2 sts, and join with a sl st to the first sc. (5 sc, 5 ch-10 loops)

Each loop starts and ends at an sc, and neighboring petals share that sc.

Rnd 3: Sl st into the first ch-10 sp and ch 1. In each ch-10 sp work: 2 sc, 2 hdc, 6 dc, 2 hdc, 2 sc. Then sl st into the next Rnd 2 sc. Repeat around, and join to the base of the first sc. (70 sts: 14 per petal, plus 5 sl sts)

The 6 dc make the rounded petal tip. The ring of stitches stays open in the middle, which creates the open petal center.

Rnd 4: Ch 1. *Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in each of next 2 sts (the 3rd and 4th dc), sc in next 6 sts, sk the sl st.* Repeat from * 4 more times. Join with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off. (80 sc: 16 per petal)

Skipping the sl st pulls each valley in, so each petal keeps a separate outline.

Center: With ivory thread, sew one 4 mm pearl over the middle of the Rnd 1 ring. Sew 6 more pearls around it in a circle. (7 pearls)

Weave in the ends.

Fern Leaf (make 112)

Foundation: Ch 21, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail.

The skipped ch at the hook is the turning ch. The other 20 ch form the spine:

• ch #1 is the tip
• ch #2–15 carry the leaflets
• ch #16–20 are the stem, ending at the tail

Side 1:

1. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook (ch #1). Work a lflt, then sl st in the same ch. (tip leaflet)
2. *Sl st in next 2 ch, lflt, sl st in same ch as last sl st.* Repeat from * 6 more times. (7 leaflets, at ch #3, 5, 7, 9, 11, 13 and 15)
3. Sl st in each of the next 5 ch to reach the end of the stem.

Side 2:

1. Rotate the piece and work into the bottom loops of the foundation. Sl st in each of the 5 stem ch.
2. *Sl st in next 2 ch, lflt, sl st in same ch as last sl st.* Repeat from * 6 more times. (7 leaflets, at ch #14, 12, 10, 8, 6, 4 and 2)
3. Sl st in the tip ch and fasten off.

(15 leaflets in total)

The leaflets on the two sides sit one ch apart, so they alternate like a real fern frond.

Make All Pieces

Totals for the pair of panels:

• Flowers: 112 (7 per strand)
• Leaves: 112 (7 per strand)
• 10 mm pearls: 448 (28 per strand, in 14 PUs)
• 4 mm pearls: 784 (7 per flower)
• Tassels: 16

Strand types:

• Strand A: Starts with a flower, then alternates leaf, flower, and so on.
• Strand B: Starts with a leaf, then alternates flower, leaf, and so on.

Layout (one panel, motif positions from the top; F = flower, L = leaf):

Pos   S1  S2  S3  S4  S5  S6  S7  S8
1     F   L   F   L   F   L   F   L
2     L   F   L   F   L   F   L   F
3     F   L   F   L   F   L   F   L
4     L   F   L   F   L   F   L   F
...   continue alternating to Pos 14

S1, S3, S5 and S7 are A strands. S2, S4, S6 and S8 are B strands. Each panel has 4 A and 4 B strands.

Joining

Method: Join as you go. The cord runs down the WS of each motif and is anchored with one sl st at the top and one at the bottom, so motifs can’t twist or slide.

Before you start each strand: Pre-string 28 pearls onto the ball with the beading needle. Push them down the yarn, out of the way.

Strand body:

• Start with the rod loop (see Border). Ch 5 for the lead. (1 in / 2.5 cm)
• Flower: Hold the flower with the WS facing you and the top petal pointing up. Sl st into the 8th sc of the top petal’s Rnd 4. Ch 15, laying the chain flat along the back. Sl st into the Rnd 3 sl st in the valley between the two lowest petals. (3 in / 7.6 cm)
• Leaf: Hold the leaf with the WS facing you and the stem up. Sl st into the end of the stem (the foundation tail end). Ch 20 along the spine, then sl st into the tip ch. (4 in / 10.2 cm)
• Work 1 PU after every motif.

Order:

• Strand A: Lead, then [flower, PU, leaf, PU] 7 times.
• Strand B: Lead, then [leaf, PU, flower, PU] 7 times.

Stitch-to-stitch logic: The cord behind each motif matches the motif’s own anchor-to-anchor distance: 15 ch for the flower’s 3 in and 20 ch for the leaf’s 20-ch spine. The motif lies flat and the cord carries the weight. The lower petals and the tip leaflet overlap the next pearl unit slightly, which is intended.

Repeat height: 3 + 2 + 4 + 2 = 11 in (27.9 cm). Seven repeats give 77 in (195.6 cm). Add the lead and the body measures 78 in (198.1 cm).

Tension: Chain at the same tension as your gauge swatch. Never tug the anchor sl sts, because tight anchors cup the flowers.

Size checkpoint: After 2 repeats, measure from the base of the rod loop. You should have 23 in (58.4 cm). Fix any difference now, before you go on.

Border (Rod Loops and Tassels)

The curtain has no fabric border. Its finishing edges are the rod loop at the top of each strand and the tassel at the bottom.

Border gauge: 6 sc worked over a chain ring = 1 in (2.5 cm).

Rod loop (worked first):

1. Ch 30 and sl st to the first ch to form a ring. (6 in / 15.2 cm around)
2. Ch 1, then work 36 sc into the ring. Join with a sl st. (36 sc: 18 per side when the loop is flattened)
3. Continue straight into the lead ch 5.

Why the loop math works:

• 30 ch at 5 ch per inch makes a 6 in ring.
• 36 sc at 6 sc per inch covers the same 6 in exactly, so the loop doesn’t ruffle or pinch.
• Hung over a rod up to 1.5 in (3.8 cm) thick, the loop adds 2.5 in (6.4 cm) to the drop.

Tassel:

1. Wrap yarn 30 times around the 4.5 in (11.4 cm) card. Cut along one edge to get 30 strands, each 9 in (22.9 cm) long.
2. After the last PU, fasten off with an 8 in (20.3 cm) tail. Lay the bundle across the tail at its center, fold it in half, and tie it tightly. (60 ends)
3. Wrap a separate piece of yarn 6 times around the bundle, 0.5 in (1.3 cm) below the fold. Knot it and hide the ends inside.
4. Trim the tassel to 4 in (10.2 cm).

Total drop: 2.5 + 78 + 4 = 84.5 in (214.6 cm).

Panel spacing: Hang the strands 4 in (10.2 cm) apart, center to center. Seven gaps of 4 in plus one flower width of 3.5 in gives 31.5 in (80.0 cm).

Final Blocking

1. Before joining, spray each flower and leaf with water until damp.
2. Pin each flower to 3.5 in (8.9 cm). Pin all 5 petal tips and open each petal loop with a pin.
3. Pin each leaf to 4.75 × 2 in (12.1 × 5.1 cm), spreading the leaflets evenly.
4. Let the pieces dry completely.
5. After joining, hang each strand and mist the cords lightly. Let gravity straighten them.
6. Steam the tassels from a distance, then comb them and trim them again if needed.
7. Never press the pearls with an iron.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

• Every flower measures 3.5 in (8.9 cm) and has 80 sc in Rnd 4.
• Every leaf has 15 leaflets, alternating along the spine.
• Every flower has 7 centered pearls, sewn on securely.
• Each strand has 28 large pearls, 7 flowers and 7 leaves.
• A and B strands alternate across each panel.
• Every strand measures 84.5 in (214.6 cm) from rod to tassel tip.
• The tassels hang level across the panel.
• All ends are woven in.

Troubleshooting

• Flowers cup: The Rnd 2 loops are too short, or your tension is too tight. Re-block, or chain the loops more loosely.
• Petals ruffle: You may have increased in more than 2 sts at the tip. Recount Rnd 4 to 16 sc per petal.
• Leaflets look crowded: Make sure you sl st in exactly 2 spine ch between leaflets.
• Strands are different lengths: Your chain tension drifted. Measure at every 2-repeat checkpoint.
• A pearl won’t slide: Use a floss threader, or swap in a pearl with a larger hole.
• Motifs flip forward: One anchor sl st is missing. Add it.
• Tassels look thin: Wrap 36 times instead of 30.

Care

Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and press out the water gently. Hang the strands to dry so they keep their length, and don’t use a hot iron on the pearls.

Final Notes

The whole curtain depends on one chain of measurements:

1. 5 ch = 1 in (2.5 cm).
2. That makes a 3.5 in (8.9 cm) flower, a 4.75 in (12.1 cm) leaf and a 2 in (5.1 cm) pearl unit.
3. Those build an 11 in (27.9 cm) repeat.
4. Seven repeats plus the lead give a 78 in (198.1 cm) body.
5. The rod loop and tassel bring each strand to 84.5 in (214.6 cm).

Check your gauge at the start, and the rest of the pattern follows from it.

Happy crocheting!