The Blossom Initial keychain is a flat, sturdy letter B in soft cream single crochet. A small spring bouquet runs down its curved side. A pink layered flower, a white daisy, and a lilac blossom sit among sage-green leaves, with tiny pink buds as accents.
The style is clean and cottage-inspired. The dense cream fabric makes a calm background, and the rolled outline around the edge and openings gives it a polished, finished look. It makes a sweet personalized gift for a bag, a set of keys, or a pencil case.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished letter is about 2.8 in (7.1 cm) wide by 3.3 in (8.4 cm) tall, not counting the hardware.
You crochet the letter flat in rows from the bottom up. The stem and right wall are worked separately beside each opening, then joined with a chain to close the top of each opening. A single crochet border and a slip-stitch round finish the outer edge, and a slip-stitch outline frames each opening. Last, you make the flowers, leaves, and buds, sew them on, and attach the key ring.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 2.8 in (7.1 cm) wide x 3.3 in (8.4 cm) tall
- Skill level: Easy-intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Fine / sport (#2) cotton
- Hook: 2.5 mm
- Number of pieces: 1 letter, plus small sewn-on appliqués
- Layout: One single-layer letter B
- Letter size before border: 15 sts x 18 rows = 2.5 in (6.4 cm) x 3 in (7.6 cm)
- Border depth: about 0.17 in (0.4 cm) per side
Materials
Use a smooth mercerized or combed cotton in a fine/sport weight. Cotton gives crisp stitch definition and holds the letter’s shape on a keychain that gets handled every day.
- Cream (main color): 8 g / 25 m
- Pink: 3 g / 9 m
- White: 2 g / 6 m
- Mustard yellow: 1 g / 3 m
- Lilac: 2 g / 6 m
- Sage green: 3 g / 9 m
Tools:
– 2.5 mm crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Sharp embroidery needle
– Stitch markers
– Blocking mat and rust-proof pins
– Gold split key ring, 1 in (2.5 cm) across
– Gold chain, about 1 in (2.5 cm) long, with 2 jump rings
– 2 pairs of flat-nose pliers
– Scissors
All quantities include a small safety margin.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- MR – magic ring
- BLO / FLO – back loop only / front loop only
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS – right side
Special stitch – sc2tog: Insert the hook in the next st and pull up a loop. Insert the hook in the following st and pull up a loop. Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops on the hook.
Notes:
– The ch 1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.
– Odd rows are RS rows. With the RS facing you, the stem is on the left and the bowls are on the right, so the B reads correctly.
– Odd rows begin at the bowl (right) edge. Even rows end at the bowl edge.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 12 sc x 12 rows = 2 in (5.1 cm) square, which is 6 sts and 6 rows per inch.
A square gauge matters here because the border places 1 sc in every row-end. Since there is only one letter to make, rows 1–4 are your test piece. Measure them before you go on.
- After Row 4: 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide, 0.67 in (1.7 cm) tall
- After Row 12: 2 in (5.1 cm) tall
- After Row 18: 2.5 in (6.4 cm) wide at the lower bowl, 3 in (7.6 cm) tall
- After the border: 2.8 in (7.1 cm) x 3.3 in (8.4 cm)
If your piece is too big, go down to a 2.25 mm hook. If it is too small, go up to a 2.75 mm hook. If your stitches are the right width but your rows are too short, keep the hook size and pull up each loop a little taller.
Letter B Body
With cream, ch 14.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (13 sts)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in last st. (14 sts)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn. 2 sc in first st, sc in next 13 sts. (15 sts)
Row 4: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st across. (15 sts)
Lower Right Wall
Row 5 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 5 sts only. Leave the remaining 10 sts unworked. (5 sts)
Rows 6–7: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st. (5 sts)
Row 8: Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 3 sts, sc2tog. (4 sts)
Row 9: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts. (3 sts)
Fasten off. The decreases round the top of the lower bowl.
Lower Stem
Row 5 (RS): With RS facing, skip the 5 unworked Row 4 sts next to the wall; these form the bottom of the lower opening. Join cream in the next st. Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 4 sts. (5 sts)
Rows 6–9: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st. (5 sts)
Do not fasten off. Row 9 ends at the outer stem edge.
Middle Bar
Row 10: Ch 1, turn. Sc in 5 stem sts, ch 5, sc in 3 wall sts. (8 sc + 5 ch = 13 sts)
The ch 5 closes the lower opening, which is 5 sts x 5 rows: 0.83 in (2.1 cm) square.
Row 11 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 3 sts, sc in each of 5 ch, sc in next 5 sts. (13 sts)
Row 12: Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in last st. (14 sts)
The 13-st waist between the 15-st lower bowl and the 14-st upper bowl creates the notch on the right edge.
Upper Right Wall
Row 13 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc in first 5 sts only. (5 sts)
Row 14: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st. (5 sts)
Row 15: Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts. (4 sts)
Fasten off.
Upper Stem
Row 13 (RS): With RS facing, skip the 4 Row 12 sts next to the wall. Join cream in the next st. Ch 1, sc in the same st and in the next 4 sts. (5 sts)
Rows 14–15: Ch 1, turn. Sc in each st. (5 sts)
Top Bar
Row 16: Ch 1, turn. Sc in 5 stem sts, ch 4, sc in 4 wall sts. (9 sc + 4 ch = 13 sts)
The upper opening is 4 sts x 3 rows: 0.67 in (1.7 cm) x 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Row 17 (RS): Ch 1, turn. Sc2tog, sc in next 2 sts, sc in each of 4 ch, sc in next 5 sts. (12 sts)
Row 18: Ch 1, turn. Sc in next 10 sts, sc2tog. (11 sts)
Fasten off and weave in ends. Check the 3 in (7.6 cm) height checkpoint.
Border
Border gauge: Same as the body, 6 sc per inch. Work 1 sc in each stitch and 1 sc in each row-end.
Round 1 (RS): Join cream in the first st of Row 18 at the top-left corner.
- Top-left corner: Ch 1, 3 sc in the same st.
- Left side: Sc in each of 18 row-ends down the stem.
- Bottom: 3 sc in the first foundation ch, sc in the next 11 ch, 2 sc in the last ch.
- Right side: Sc in each of 18 row-ends up the bowl edge.
- Top: 2 sc in the last st of Row 18, then sc in the next 9 sts. Sl st to the first sc.
Per-side counts:
– Top: 14 (11 sts + 3 extra)
– Left: 18
– Bottom: 16 (13 ch + 3 extra)
– Right: 18
Total: 60 sts worked 1 per existing stitch or row-end, plus 6 extra corner/curve sts = 66 sc.
Round 2: Ch 1. Sl st in the BLO of each sc around, keeping the stitches relaxed. (66 sl st) Fasten off.
The BLO slip stitches roll the edge forward and create the raised outline.
Why the math works:
– The body is 18 rows tall at 6 rows per inch, so 18 row-end sc equal 3 in (7.6 cm) of edge. The edge neither ruffles nor cups.
– The two extra sc at each square left corner turn the corner flat.
– The single extra sc at the top-right and bottom-right corners softens the curves that the shaping rows already started.
– One sc round adds about 0.17 in (0.4 cm) per side:
– Width: 2.5 in + 0.34 in ≈ 2.8 in (7.1 cm)
– Height: 3 in + 0.34 in ≈ 3.3 in (8.4 cm)
Opening Outlines
With RS facing and cream, work surface-style sl sts around the inside edge of each opening. Keep them loose so the openings stay open.
- Lower opening: 5 sl st across the Row 4 sts, 5 along the side row-ends, 5 into the underside of the ch-5, and 5 along the other side. (20 sl st)
- Upper opening: 4 + 3 + 4 + 3. (14 sl st)
Slip stitches add almost no depth, so the openings keep their measured size.
Appliqués
Leave 8 in (20.3 cm) tails for sewing on every appliqué.
Pink Layered Flower (make 1, about 1 in / 2.5 cm)
Rnd 1: With cream, MR, 10 sc. Sl st to join. Fasten off. (10 sts)
Rnd 2 (front petals): Join pink in the FLO of any st. (Sc, hdc, dc) in the next st, (dc, hdc, sc) in the next st. Repeat from * 4 more times. Sl st to join. (30 sts, 5 petals)
Rnd 3 (back petals): Working in the unused back loops of Rnd 1, (hdc, dc, dc) in the next st, (dc, dc, hdc) in the next st. Repeat from * 4 more times. Sl st to join. (30 sts, 5 petals)
Fasten off. Arrange the back petals so they peek out between the front petals.
White Daisy (make 1, about 1.1 in / 2.8 cm)
Rnd 1: With mustard, MR, 6 sc. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st. Sl st to join. Fasten off. (12 sts)
The center measures about 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Rnd 3: Join white. Ch 2, 3 dc in the next st, ch 2, sl st in the next st. Repeat from * 5 more times. (6 petals)
Fasten off.
Lilac Flower (make 1, about 1 in / 2.5 cm)
Rnd 1: With cream, MR, 10 sc. Sl st to join. Fasten off. (10 sts)
Rnd 2: Join lilac. (Sc, hdc, dc) in the next st, (dc, hdc, sc) in the next st. Repeat from * 4 more times. Sl st to join. (30 sts, 5 petals)
Large Leaf (make 6, about 0.6 in / 1.5 cm)
With green, ch 6.
- Sc in 2nd ch from hook, then hdc, dc, hdc in the next 3 ch.
- 3 sc in the last ch.
- Working along the other side of the chain: hdc, dc, hdc, sc.
- Sl st to the first sc. (11 sts)
The leaf has a pointed tip, and the base of the chain forms the center vein.
Small Leaf (make 4, about 0.4 in / 1 cm)
With green, ch 4.
- Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc, hdc in the next 2 ch.
- Ch 1.
- Working along the other side of the chain: hdc, sc, sl st. (6 sts + ch-1 tip)
Pink Bud (make 4, about 0.25 in / 0.6 cm)
With pink, MR, 6 sc. Pull the ring tightly closed so it cups into a bead. Fasten off and stuff the tail inside.
Assembly
- Lay out the pieces with the RS of the letter facing you:
- Pink flower on the upper bowl, near the top right
- Daisy over the waist notch, overlapping the lower opening’s right edge
- Lilac flower at the bottom right
- Tuck the large leaves behind the flowers so their tips point outward. Sew each leaf at its base.
- Sew the flowers through their centers and petal bases. The petals may extend slightly past the edge, as in the finished piece.
- Embroider two backstitch stems in green: one at the top-right corner, about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) long, and one at the bottom left.
- Sew 2 buds and 2 small leaves along each stem.
- Open a jump ring and fit it through the top border, above the stem, 4 sts in from the top-left corner. Add the chain, then attach the key ring with the second jump ring.
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist the letter with water. Do not soak it, because the appliqués are already sewn on.
- Pin it on a gridded mat to 2.8 in (7.1 cm) x 3.3 in (8.4 cm).
- Pin the stem edge straight. Gently ease the two bowls into smooth curves, keeping the waist notch visible.
- Use pins to open both openings into neat rectangles.
- Fluff the petals and shape the leaf tips with your fingers.
- Let it dry completely before unpinning.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The B reads correctly, with the stem on the left.
- The letter measures 2.8 in (7.1 cm) x 3.3 in (8.4 cm).
- Border Round 1 has 66 sc: 14 / 18 / 16 / 18 per side.
- The openings have 20 and 14 slip stitches and lie open and square.
- All appliqués are secure, with no loose petals.
- The jump rings are fully closed with no gaps.
- All ends are woven in on the back.
Troubleshooting
- The B is mirrored: You attached the appliqués to the WS. Re-check which side faced you on Row 1.
- The border ruffles: Your rows are taller than your stitches are wide. Skip 1 row-end every 6 rows on the long sides.
- The border cups: Use a hook 0.25 mm larger for Round 1.
- The openings close up: Work the slip-stitch outline more loosely, or use a hook 0.5 mm larger.
- The letter twists on the ring: Move the jump ring 1 st closer to the stem.
Care
Spot-clean with cool water and mild soap, then press with a towel and dry flat. Avoid machine washing, which can loosen the appliqués and tarnish the hardware.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple:
- Gauge is 6 sts and 6 rows per inch.
- The letter body is 15 sts x 18 rows = 2.5 in (6.4 cm) x 3 in (7.6 cm).
- The border adds 0.17 in (0.4 cm) per side.
- The finished letter is 2.8 in (7.1 cm) x 3.3 in (8.4 cm).
Check each stage, and the letter will lie flat with crisp openings and a neat outline. Happy crocheting!