The Sage Pyramid Bed Runner is a calm, textured accent for the foot of a bed. Bands of raised triangle clusters alternate with solid rows and a line of open eyelets. Each short end finishes with chunky tassels.
The runner is worked in one soft dusty sage-teal. One color lets the texture do the work. The triangles catch the light, and the eyelet rows add rhythm without making the fabric look busy. It suits farmhouse, Scandinavian, and modern-cottage bedrooms.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished runner measures 62.75 x 18.75 in (159.4 x 47.6 cm) after the border and before the tassels.
You work it in one piece, lengthwise, in rows. The foundation chain runs the full length of the runner, so every band runs end to end. Two rounds of single crochet square up the edges, and you add five tassels to each short end at the very end.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 62.75 x 18.75 in (159.4 x 47.6 cm), excluding tassels
- Skill level: Intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4, medium)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1
- Layout: Single rectangle worked flat in rows, lengthwise
- Piece size before border: 61.75 x 17.75 in (156.8 x 45.1 cm)
- Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on every side
- Tassels: 5 per short end, 10 total, each 5 in (12.7 cm) long
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth worsted-weight yarn with good stitch definition. Cotton blends, acrylic, or a soft wool blend all work well. Avoid fuzzy or highly textured yarns, because they hide the triangle clusters. A yarn of about 200 m per 100 g matches the amounts below.
- Dusty sage-teal: 800 g, about 1,600 m (1,750 yd)
- Body: about 620 g
- Border: about 35 g
- Tassels: about 45 g
- Remaining margin: about 100 g
The quantities include a safety margin of roughly 15%. Buy all your skeins from the same dye lot.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Sharp scissors
– Stiff card 5.5 in (14.0 cm) tall for tassels
– Tape measure
– Locking stitch markers
– Blocking mats and rust-proof pins
– Spray bottle
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS / WS – right side / wrong side
- rep – repeat
Special stitch – Triangle (TRI), a treble cluster worked over 5 stitches:
*Yarn over twice, insert hook in next st, yarn over and pull up a loop, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice; rep from * 4 more times in the next 4 sts (6 loops on hook). Yarn over and pull through all 6 loops.
The five tall legs spread across 5 sts at the base and close into one point at the top. That is what forms the pointed triangle with the wide base.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 dc and 8 dc rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). A triangle row (tr height) measures 0.75 in (1.9 cm). One 6-row band (Rows 2–7) measures 3.25 in (8.3 cm).
Test swatch first. Make a small sample before you start the 247-stitch foundation.
- Ch 29.
- Work Rows 1–7 below, using 5 Triangle repeats instead of 49 (27 sts).
- Your swatch should measure 6.75 in (17.1 cm) wide and 3.75 in (9.5 cm) tall.
If the swatch is too big (wider than 7 in / 17.8 cm), go down one hook size. If it is too small (narrower than 6.5 in / 16.5 cm), go up one hook size. Row height matters too. If your dc rows run tall, try pulling the first loop of each dc a little shorter.
Checkpoints on the runner:
– After Row 1: 61.75 in (156.8 cm) long
– After Row 7: 3.75 in (9.5 cm) wide
– After Row 31: 16.75 in (42.5 cm) wide
– After Row 33: 17.75 in (45.1 cm) wide
– After the border: 62.75 x 18.75 in (159.4 x 47.6 cm)
A difference of up to 0.5 in (1.3 cm) in length is normal and blocks out. Anything more means you should recheck your gauge.
Body of the Runner
Stitch multiple: 5 + 2, with an odd total so the mesh row comes out even. The runner uses 49 repeats: 49 x 5 + 2 = 247 sts.
On every row, the turning chain counts as the first stitch.
Foundation: Ch 249.
Row 1 (RS): Dc in 4th ch from hook (skipped 3 ch count as first dc) and in each ch across. Turn. (247 sts)
Check that Row 1 measures 61.75 in (156.8 cm).
Band Repeat (Rows 2–7)
Row 2 (WS) – Eyelet mesh row: Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), sk next st, dc in next st, ch 1, sk next st; rep from * across, ending with dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (124 dc + 123 ch-1 sps = 247 sts)*
This row makes the line of small square eyelets.
Row 3 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each ch-1 sp and each dc across, ending with dc in 3rd ch of turning ch-4. Turn. (247 sts)
Row 4 (WS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across, ending with dc in top of turning ch. Turn. (247 sts)
Row 5 (RS) – Triangle row: Ch 4 (counts as tr), TRI over next 5 sts, ch 1; rep from * 48 more times, tr in top of turning ch. Turn. (1 tr + 49 TRI + 49 ch-1 sps + 1 tr = 100 sts)*
This row uses 247 stitches: 1 + (49 x 5) + 1. Each TRI pulls 5 stitches into one point, so the row looks gathered at the tips. That is expected.
Row 6 (WS) – Restore row: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in next ch-1 sp, 3 dc in top of next TRI; rep from * 48 more times, dc in 4th ch of turning ch-4. Turn. (1 + 49 x 5 + 1 = 247 sts)*
This is a conversion row. You work 5 sts over each 2-position repeat (TRI + ch-1 sp), which brings the count back to the original 247. The 3 dc fanning from each TRI tip leave small open gaps beside the points, framing each triangle.
Row 7 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st across. Turn. (247 sts)
Check that the piece measures 3.75 in (9.5 cm) wide: 0.5 in for Row 1 plus 3.25 in for the band.
Rows 8–31: Rep Rows 2–7 four more times. This gives 5 triangle bands in total. (247 sts)
Check that the piece measures 16.75 in (42.5 cm) wide.
Closing Rows
Row 32 (WS): Rep Row 2 (eyelet mesh row). (247 sts)
Row 33 (RS): Rep Row 3. (247 sts) Do not fasten off.
This closing pair mirrors the start: one solid row on the outside, then an eyelet row. The runner looks balanced from both long edges.
Row tally: 33 rows total = 28 dc-height rows + 5 triangle rows.
Width: 28 x 0.5 in + 5 x 0.75 in = 14 + 3.75 = 17.75 in (45.1 cm).
Border
Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), and 2 sc rounds = 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
You work the border in the round, with the RS facing. Corner ch-2 spaces are not included in the per-side counts below.
Round 1: Ch 1, turn to work along the short side.
- Short side (row ends): Work 2 sc in each dc-height row end and 3 sc in each triangle-row end. That is 28 x 2 + 5 x 3 = 71 sc.
- Corner: Ch 2.
- Long side (foundation edge): Sc in the base of each of the 247 foundation sts. (247 sc)
- Corner: Ch 2.
- Second short side: Work as the first short side. (71 sc)
- Corner: Ch 2.
- Long side (Row 33 edge): Sc in each of the 247 sts. (247 sc)
- Corner: Ch 2. Join with sl st to first sc.
Round 1 total: 247 + 247 + 71 + 71 = 636 sc + 4 corner ch-2 sps.
Round 2: Ch 1, sc in each sc around. In each corner ch-2 sp work (sc, ch 2, sc). Join with sl st to first sc. Fasten off.
- Long sides: 247 + 2 = 249 sc each
- Short sides: 71 + 2 = 73 sc each
- Round 2 total: 249 + 249 + 73 + 73 = 644 sc + 4 corner ch-2 sps
Why the math works: The gauge is 4 sts per inch. A dc row is 0.5 in tall, so 2 sc per dc row end equals 4 sc per inch. A triangle row is 0.75 in tall, so 3 sc per row end also equals 4 sc per inch. The border matches the body gauge on all four sides, so the edges stay flat, without ruffling or pulling in.
Tassels
Make 10 tassels:
1. Wrap yarn 30 times around the 5.5 in (14.0 cm) card.
2. Slide a 12 in (30.5 cm) strand under the wraps at the top and tie tightly.
3. Cut the wraps at the bottom edge.
4. Wrap a second strand tightly around the tassel 0.75 in (1.9 cm) below the top, 6 times, and knot. Hide the ends inside the tassel.
5. Trim the bottom to an even 5 in (12.7 cm).
Placement: On each short side, count the 73 Round 2 stitches. Place markers in sts 1, 19, 37, 55, and 73. That gives 18 sts, or 4.5 in (11.4 cm), between tassels. Tie each tassel to its marked stitch with its top strand, knot securely on the WS, and weave the tails into the border.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends along solid dc rows, never across the eyelet mesh.
- Lay the runner flat on blocking mats, RS up, with the tassels hanging free.
- Mist the whole piece with water until damp but not soaked.
- Pin the four corners first to 62.75 x 18.75 in (159.4 x 47.6 cm).
- Pin the long edges every 3 in (7.6 cm), keeping the eyelet rows straight.
- Pin the short edges every 3 in (7.6 cm).
- Gently press each triangle with your fingertips so the points stand up and sit upright.
- Let the piece dry completely, usually 24 hours.
- Steam the tassels lightly, then smooth and trim them if needed.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every row except the triangle rows has 247 sts.
- Each triangle row has 49 TRI clusters.
- There are 5 triangle bands, with all points facing the same direction.
- Eyelet rows run straight and parallel to the long edges.
- The body measures 61.75 x 17.75 in (156.8 x 45.1 cm) before the border.
- Border Round 2 has 249 sc on each long side and 73 sc on each short side.
- Corners are square and lie flat.
- There are 5 evenly spaced tassels on each short end, all 5 in (12.7 cm) long.
- All ends are woven in securely.
- The blocked size is 62.75 x 18.75 in (159.4 x 47.6 cm).
Troubleshooting
Triangle count is off at the end of Row 5. Recount Row 4. You need exactly 247 sts. Mark every tenth TRI as you go.
Triangles look flat or lean sideways. Keep each tr leg the same height and make sure all five legs go into five separate stitches. Pull the final yarn over firmly through all 6 loops.
Row 6 count is wrong. Check that you put 2 dc in every ch-1 sp and 3 dc in every TRI top. Missing the last ch-1 sp before the edge tr is the most common mistake.
Runner is wavy along the long edges. Your foundation chain may be tighter than your stitches. Remake it one hook size larger, or use a foundation dc instead.
Short edges ruffle after the border. Your rows are taller than 0.5 in (1.3 cm). Work 3 sc per 2 dc rows instead, then recount and keep both short sides equal.
Eyelet rows close up. Make the ch 1 slightly looser and be sure to skip exactly one stitch.
Tassels look thin. Add 5 to 10 more wraps. Make all 10 tassels the same way.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, or machine wash on a gentle cycle in a mesh bag if your yarn allows it. Lay flat to dry, reshape to the blocked size, and smooth the tassels by hand.
Final Notes
The whole runner follows one chain of measurements:
- Gauge: 16 sts and 8 dc rows = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Foundation: 247 sts = 61.75 in (156.8 cm)
- Bands: five 6-row bands of 3.25 in (8.3 cm) each, plus 3 framing rows, build a 17.75 in (45.1 cm) width
- Border: two sc rounds add 0.5 in (1.3 cm) on every side, giving 62.75 x 18.75 in (159.4 x 47.6 cm)
- Tassels: 18 sts, or 4.5 in (11.4 cm), apart
If you check each stage as you go, the finished runner will block to size.
Happy crocheting!