Golden crocheted fish with cream lace-patterned belly and dark brown fins on a light gray background.

Goldie Fish Plastic Bag Holder Crochet Pattern

by

Goldie is a cheerful fish that stores your plastic grocery bags. Stuff bags in through the top of the net, then pull them out one at a time from the small opening between her tail lobes. She hangs from a peg by a sturdy loop on top of her head.

Golden mustard makes the pointed head, fins and tail. Cream makes the open diamond net, and chocolate brown gives the lips and crisp edging. White and black make the round eyes. The look is cozy farmhouse kitchen, a little retro and a little silly.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. Finished, Goldie measures about 26 in (66.0 cm) from the top of the loop to the tail tips and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide across the body when flat.

You work the head and net body as one piece in continuous rounds from the tip of the head down. The loop, eyes, lips, fins and tail lobes are made separately. The fins and tail get a brown edging, and then everything is sewn on.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: 26 in (66.0 cm) long; body 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat; about 11 in (27.9 cm) across the fins
  • Skill level: Easy-intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton or cotton blend
  • Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
  • Number of pieces: 1 main body plus 8 small parts (loop, 2 eyes, lips, 2 fins, 2 tail lobes)
  • Layout: a single vertical hanging fish, with the loop on top, the face on the head, fins at the head/net join and the tail at the bottom opening
  • Main body: head 8 in (20.3 cm) tall; net and band 12 in (30.5 cm) tall
  • Size before border: fin 3 in (7.6 cm) base × 2.7 in (6.9 cm) tall; tail lobe 2.25 in (5.7 cm) × 3.8 in (9.7 cm)
  • Border depth: 2 rows, about 0.45 in (1.1 cm)

Materials

Use smooth cotton or a cotton blend. It holds the cone shape, keeps the net nodes clear and washes well.

  • Mustard: 80 g / 135 m (head, loop, fins, tail)
  • Cream: 70 g / 120 m (net and bottom band)
  • Chocolate brown: 15 g / 25 m (lips, edging)
  • White: 5 g / 9 m (eyes)
  • Black: 3 g / 5 m (eye centers)

Tools: 5 mm (H-8) hook, stitch markers, tapestry needle, scissors, rustproof pins, measuring tape.

The quantities include a margin of about 15 percent for swatching and gauge differences.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • inc – 2 sc in same stitch
  • sc2tog / sc3tog – single crochet 2 / 3 together
  • MR – magic ring
  • sp – space
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • sk – skip

Special stitch: Node (nd). Work an sc in the stated stitch or space, ch 3, then sl st into the front loop and left vertical bar of that same sc. The ch-3 curls into a small round knot. Each node counts as 1 stitch.

Gauge and Checkpoints

Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc. Work firmly so the head shows no gaps.

Test piece first: make one side fin before anything else. Before the border, it should measure 3 in (7.6 cm) across the base and 2.7 in (6.9 cm) tall. If it does, your gauge is right for the whole fish.

Checkpoints:

  • After Rnd 22: 48 sts; the head is about 4.9 in (12.4 cm) tall and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat
  • After Rnd 36: the head is 8 in (20.3 cm) tall
  • After Rnd 45: the net hangs about 5.75 in (14.6 cm) below the head
  • After Rnd 57: the net and band measure 12 in (30.5 cm), and the opening is 3 in (7.6 cm) wide flat

Too big? Go down 0.5 mm. Too small? Go up 0.5 mm. The net loosens with use, so lean toward a snug fit.

Close-up of a handmade mustard-yellow crocheted creature with white-ringed black eyes and brown smile against a soft, blurred interior background.

Head (Mustard)

Work in continuous spiral rounds. Put a marker in the first stitch of each round; this line is the back center of the fish.

  • Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
  • Rnd 2: [sc, inc] 3 times. (9)
  • Rnd 3: sc around. (9)
  • Rnd 4: [sc 2, inc] 3 times. (12)
  • Rnd 5: [sc 3, inc] 3 times. (15)
  • Rnd 6: sc around. (15)
  • Rnd 7: [sc 4, inc] 3 times. (18)
  • Rnd 8: [sc 5, inc] 3 times. (21)
  • Rnd 9: sc around. (21)
  • Rnd 10: [sc 6, inc] 3 times. (24)
  • Rnd 11: [sc 7, inc] 3 times. (27)
  • Rnd 12: sc around. (27)
  • Rnd 13: [sc 8, inc] 3 times. (30)
  • Rnd 14: [sc 9, inc] 3 times. (33)
  • Rnd 15: sc around. (33)
  • Rnd 16: [sc 10, inc] 3 times. (36)
  • Rnd 17: [sc 11, inc] 3 times. (39)
  • Rnd 18: sc around. (39)
  • Rnd 19: [sc 12, inc] 3 times. (42)
  • Rnd 20: [sc 13, inc] 3 times. (45)
  • Rnd 21: sc around. (45)
  • Rnd 22: [sc 14, inc] 3 times. (48)
  • Rnds 23–36: sc around. (48)

Adding only 3 stitches per increase round, with a plain round after every two, makes the tall, pointed cone. After Rnd 36, sl st in the next st and change to cream.

Net Body (Cream)

  • Rnd 37: ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (48)
  • Rnd 38: ch 1, nd in first st, [ch 5, sk 3, nd in next st] 11 times, ch 2, dc in first nd. (12 nodes, 12 ch-5 sps)

The ch 2 plus dc stands in for the 12th ch-5 space and leaves your hook at its center.

  • Rnds 39–51 (13 rounds): nd around the post of the joining dc, [ch 5, nd in next ch-5 sp] 11 times, ch 2, dc in first nd. (12 nodes, 12 ch-5 sps)

Each node sits in the center of a loop below, so the diamonds offset and every node marks an intersection.

  • Rnds 52–53: nd around the post of the joining dc, [ch 4, nd in next sp] 11 times, ch 1, dc in first nd. (12 nodes, 12 ch-4 sps)
  • Rnd 54: nd around the post of the joining dc, [ch 3, nd in next sp] 11 times, ch 1, hdc in first nd. (12 nodes, 12 ch-3 sps)

The shorter chains taper the body toward the tail.

Bottom Band (Cream)

  • Rnd 55 (conversion): ch 1, [sc in nd, 2 sc in next sp] 12 times, sl st to first sc. Count: (12 nodes × 1) + (12 sps × 2) = 36
  • Rnd 56: ch 1, [sc, sc2tog] 12 times, sl st to first sc. (24)
  • Rnd 57: ch 1, sc around, sl st to first sc. (24)

Fasten off. The 24 sts make an opening 6 in (15.2 cm) around that lies 3 in (7.6 cm) flat. It’s snug enough to hold the bags but loose enough to pull one out.

Hanging Loop (Mustard)

Ch 30 and sl st to the first ch to form a ring without twisting it. Ch 1, work 40 sc over the ring, covering the chain, and sl st to the first sc. Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. The opening is about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) across, and the loop stands 2.25 in (5.7 cm) above the tip.

Eyes (Make 2)

  • Rnd 1: With black, 6 sc in MR, sl st to first sc, then change to white. (6)
  • Rnd 2: ch 1, inc in each st, sl st to first sc. (12)
  • Rnd 3: ch 1, [sc, inc] 6 times, sl st to first sc. (18)

Fasten off with a long tail. Each eye is about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across.

Lips (Brown)

Ch 7.

  • Rnd 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 4 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Working along the other side of the chain, sc 4, then 2 sc in the same ch as the first sc. (14)
  • Rnd 2: inc, sc 4, inc 3 times, sc 4, inc twice. (20)
  • Rnd 3: sl st in each st around. (20)

Fasten off with a long tail. Sew a running stitch lengthwise through the center and pull it gently to pinch the oval into two puffy lips. The lips measure about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) × 1 in (2.5 cm).

Side Fins (Mustard, Make 2)

  • Row 1: ch 13, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (12)
  • Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc2tog, sc to end. (11)
  • Row 3: ch 1, turn, sc to last 2, sc2tog. (10)
  • Rows 4–11: Repeat Rows 2–3, losing 1 st per row. (Row 11: 2)
  • Row 12: ch 1, turn, sc2tog. (1)

Every decrease falls on the same edge, which gives you one straight edge and one slanted edge. Fasten off.

Tail Lobes (Mustard, Make 2)

Begin every row after Row 1 with ch 1, turn.

  • Row 1: ch 10, sc in 2nd ch from hook and each ch across. (9)
  • Rows 2–5: sc across. (9)
  • Row 6: sc2tog, sc 5, sc2tog. (7)
  • Rows 7–9: sc across. (7)
  • Row 10: sc2tog, sc 3, sc2tog. (5)
  • Rows 11–13: sc across. (5)
  • Row 14: sc2tog, sc, sc2tog. (3)
  • Rows 15–16: sc across. (3)
  • Row 17: sc3tog. (1)

Fasten off. You now have a pointed leaf shape.

Border: Brown Edging

Border gauge: 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm), the same as the main gauge. Leave the base edges unbordered, because they get sewn to the body. In this section, the side counts do not include the 3-st tip group, which is listed separately.

Fins

  • Row 1: Join brown at the base corner of the straight edge and ch 1. Work 11 sc up the straight edge, 1 in each row end of Rows 1–11. Work 3 sc in the Row 12 tip st. Then work 16 sc down the slanted edge: 1 in each row end of Rows 11–1, plus 1 extra in the row ends of Rows 10, 8, 6, 4 and 2. Count: 11 + 3 + 16 = 30
  • Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 16, sc in first tip st, 3 sc in center tip st, sc in last tip st, sc 11. Count: (30 worked 1 per st) + (2 added) = 32

Why the math works: The straight edge is 2.7 in (6.9 cm), and 11 sc at 4 per inch cover 2.75 in. The slanted edge runs 3 in across and 2.7 in up, which works out to about 4 in (10.2 cm), exactly what 16 sc cover. Both edges lie flat.

Tail Lobes

  • Row 1: Join brown at one base corner and ch 1. Work 15 sc up the long edge, 1 in each row end of Rows 1–16 except Row 8. Work 3 sc in the tip st, then 15 sc down the other edge in the same way. Count: 15 + 3 + 15 = 33
  • Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc 15, sc in first tip st, 3 sc in center tip st, sc in last tip st, sc 15. Count: (33 worked 1 per st) + (2 added) = 35

Why the math works: Each tapered edge is about 3.6 in (9.1 cm), which needs 14.5 sc. Rounding up to 15 lets the gentle curve lie flat without ruffling.

After the border, each fin measures about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) at the base. Each tail lobe is about 3 in (7.6 cm) wide and 4.25 in (10.8 cm) long. Weave in all ends.

Assembly

  1. Loop: Sew the loop’s join to the head tip, going through Rnds 1–2 several times.
  2. Eyes: Center them on Rnd 25, opposite the marker line, with 2.25 in (5.7 cm) between their centers. Whipstitch them around.
  3. Lips: Center them below the eyes across Rnds 30–33 and whipstitch them around.
  4. Fins: Flatten the body with the face forward. Pin a fin to each side fold so its base runs from Rnd 36 down into the first net rounds, with the straight edge on top and the point angled outward. Flip the second fin over so the pair mirrors. Sew them to the head stitches and the nodes they touch.
  5. Tail: Sew one lobe base to the left fold of the band and one to the right fold, overlapping the last 2 rounds. Angle them outward in a V and keep the opening clear.

Final Blocking

  1. Lightly mist the fins and tail lobes.
  2. Pin them flat with straight brown edges and sharp points.
  3. Hang the fish and load a few bags so the diamonds open evenly.
  4. Shape the cone by hand and press the lips into a soft pinch.
  5. Let everything dry fully.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • [ ] Head is 8 in (20.3 cm) tall and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat
  • [ ] Each net round has 12 nodes, and the diamonds are evenly offset
  • [ ] Band has 24 sts and lies 3 in (7.6 cm) wide
  • [ ] Fin borders have 32 sts and tail borders have 35 sts
  • [ ] Eyes are level, and the lips are centered
  • [ ] Fins mirror each other
  • [ ] Loop is firmly anchored
  • [ ] Overall length is 26 in (66.0 cm)

Troubleshooting

  • Head flares instead of forming a cone: Your stitches are too loose, or you missed the plain rounds.
  • Net twists: Work each node into the center of a space, never into a node.
  • Nodes look flat: Snug up the ch-3 before you work the sl st.
  • Border ruffles: Use 1 fewer sc per edge. Border cups: Add 1 sc per edge.
  • Bags slide out: Add a round of [sc 2, sc2tog] to the band. (18)

Care

Hand wash in cool water without wringing. Reshape the fins and lay the fish flat to dry.

Mustard-colored crocheted fish with brown fins and cream openwork, held as a plastic bag dispenser near a window.

Final Notes

The 16 sc gauge gives a 48-st head that measures 12 in (30.5 cm) around and 6 in (15.2 cm) flat. Those 48 sts split into 12 net loops of 1 in (2.5 cm) each. The net tapers to a 24-st band 3 in (7.6 cm) wide, and the borders at 4 sc per inch keep every fin flat. Together they make a 26 in (66.0 cm) fish.

Happy crocheting!

Leave a Comment