The Evergreen Lattice Bag Holder is a tall, slim tube for storing plastic grocery bags. It hangs from a cabinet knob or hook. You push bags in at the top and pull them out one at a time through the round opening at the bottom.
The design uses one solid color, a deep emerald green. Firm single-crochet bands at the top and bottom give the tube its structure. Between them, an open diamond net shows the white bags inside, so it looks neat even when it’s packed full. A wooden ring wrapped in single crochet finishes the top and lets it hang straight.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished body is about 18.1 in (46.0 cm) tall and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide when flattened, which is a 12 in (30.5 cm) circumference. With the hanging ring, the total length is about 20.4 in (51.8 cm).
You work everything from the bottom up in joined rounds, all in one piece. You start with a flat ring around the bottom opening, turn it upward into a solid band, and switch to the diamond net. Then you close the net with a matching solid top band. Finally, you cover a wooden ring with stitches and sew it to the back of the top band.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 18.1 in (46.0 cm) tall body × 6 in (15.2 cm) flat width
- Length including hanger: about 20.4 in (51.8 cm)
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted weight (4) cotton
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 tube body and 1 covered ring hanger, sewn together
- Layout: Single vertical tube, worked in joined rounds from the bottom up
- Circumference: 48 sts = 12 in (30.5 cm)
- Bottom opening: 24 sts, about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across
- Size before top band: 16.1 in (40.9 cm) tall
- Top band depth: 2 in (5.1 cm)
Materials
Yarn: Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape, doesn’t fuzz, and stands up to frequent handling in a kitchen. Acrylic also works, but the mesh will stretch more lengthwise.
- Emerald green: 140 g / about 215 m (235 yd)
The quantity includes a margin of roughly 25% to cover gauge differences and a gauge swatch.
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- 1 wooden or plastic ring, 2 in (5.1 cm) outer diameter
- Stitch marker
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a spray bottle for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- sk – skip
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- BLO – back loop only
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- ch-5 loop – the space under a chain-5 arch
Special stitch: mesh sc. Insert your hook under the whole ch-5 loop rather than into a single chain, then complete a sc. This anchors the next row of diamonds at the center of each loop.
Round joins: Join every round with a sl st to the first st. The ch 1 at the start of a round does not count as a stitch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Solid gauge: 16 sc and 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
Mesh gauge: 12 ch-5 loops around the tube, and 4 mesh rounds = 3 in (7.6 cm) of height, measured flat with a light lengthwise stretch. Each mesh round adds about 0.75 in (1.9 cm).
Test first: Before starting the holder, work the base (Rnds 1–5) as your test piece. It is part of the finished holder, so if your gauge matches, just keep going.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 5: a flat ring about 3.8 in (9.7 cm) across with a 1.9 in (4.8 cm) center opening.
- After Rnd 10: the tube measures 6 in (15.2 cm) flat, and the bottom band is 1.1 in (2.8 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 20: the mesh is about 7.5 in (19.1 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 30: the body is 16.1 in (40.9 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 39: the body is 18.1 in (46.0 cm) tall.
If your work is too big: Go down one hook size, to 4.5 mm. If it’s too small: Go up to 5.5 mm. If only the mesh is off in height, add or remove mesh rounds in pairs. Don’t change the stitch count, because the 48-stitch circumference is what the mesh math depends on.
Base and Bottom Band
Rnd 1: Ch 24 and join with a sl st to the first ch to form a ring, taking care not to twist it. Ch 1, then work 1 sc in each ch around. Join. (24 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in the next 3 sts, 2 sc in the next st 6 times. Join. (30 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in the next 4 sts, 2 sc in the next st 6 times. Join. (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in the next 5 sts, 2 sc in the next st 6 times. Join. (42 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in the next 6 sts, 2 sc in the next st 6 times. Join. (48 sts)
The base should lie flat as a ring. If it cups, your tension is too tight. If it ruffles, it’s too loose.
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in BLO of each st around. Join. (48 sts) The unused front loops form a crisp fold, which turns the work upward.
Rnds 7–10: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (48 sts)
The bottom band is now 5 rounds (Rnds 6–10), which is 1.1 in (2.8 cm) tall.
Diamond Mesh Body
Rnd 11 (mesh set-up): Ch 1, sc in the first st, ch 5, sk 3 sts, sc in the next st 11 times, ch 5, sk the last 3 sts, then join with a sl st to the first sc. (12 ch-5 loops)
Check the math: 12 anchor sc plus 12 × 3 skipped sts = 48, which uses every stitch of Rnd 10.
Rnd 12: Sl st in the first 2 ch of the next loop, which brings you to the loop’s center. Ch 1, mesh sc in the same loop, ch 5, mesh sc in the next loop 11 times, ch 5, then join to the first sc. (12 ch-5 loops)
Rnds 13–30: Repeat Rnd 12 eighteen more times. (12 ch-5 loops in every round)
That gives 20 mesh rounds in total (Rnds 11–30), about 15 in (38.1 cm) tall. Because each round’s sc sits in the center of a loop below, the loops stack into a diamond lattice. The 2 sl sts at the start of each round shift the join only slightly, so the join seam stays almost vertical. Keep it at the back of the holder.
Tension tip: Keep each ch-5 the same length. Uneven chains make diamonds that lean. If you crochet tightly, ch loosely or use a 5.5 mm hook for the chains only.
Top Band and Edge Finish (Border)
For this holder, the top band and the bottom-opening rim serve as the border.
Border gauge: the same as the solid gauge, 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). When the tube is flattened, each side shows 24 sts (24 front + 24 back = 48). Since this is a tube with no corners, there are no corner stitches to count.
Rnd 31 (conversion round): Sl st in the first 2 ch of the next loop. Ch 1, then work 4 sc in that loop and 4 sc in each of the remaining 11 loops. Join. (12 loops × 4 sc = 48 sts: 24 per flattened side)
Rnds 32–39: Ch 1, sc in each st around. Join. (48 sts, 24 per flattened side)
After Rnd 39, fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Weave it in down the inside of the band. The top band is 9 rounds (Rnds 31–39), which is 2 in (5.1 cm) tall. The top edge naturally rolls slightly, which matches the rounded rim in the finished piece.
Bottom opening rim (optional but recommended): Join yarn at the back of the foundation chain on the underside of Rnd 1. Ch 1, then sl st loosely in each of the 24 foundation loops. Join. (24 sl sts) This firms up the opening so it doesn’t stretch out as bags are pulled through. Fasten off and weave in the end.
Why the math works: The tube has 48 sts at the bottom band. The mesh set-up turns those into 12 loops (4 sts per loop). Rnd 31 puts 4 sc back into each loop, which returns the count to exactly 48. With the same circumference at the top and bottom, the tube hangs straight instead of flaring or pinching.
Hanging Ring and Attachment
Ring cover: Make a slipknot on your hook. Work sc tightly around the 2 in (5.1 cm) ring, pushing the stitches together as you go, until the ring is fully covered, about 36 sc. Join with a sl st to the first sc. (36 sts) Add or remove a few stitches so that no wood shows and the stitches don’t overlap.
Tab:
- Row 1: Without fastening off, sc in the next 6 sts of the ring cover. (6 sts)
- Rows 2–5: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (6 sts)
The tab is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) wide and about 1.1 in (2.8 cm) long. Fasten off and leave a 15 in (38.1 cm) tail.
Attach: Center the tab over the join seam on the inside of the back wall. Let the tab overlap the top band so the ring rises about 2.3 in (5.8 cm) above the rim. Whipstitch all four edges of the tab to the band through the inside loops only, so the stitching doesn’t show on the front. Weave in the end.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all remaining ends before blocking.
- Fill the holder with plastic bags or roll a towel inside it so it keeps a cylindrical shape.
- Lightly mist the whole piece with water until it’s damp but not soaked.
- Gently pull the mesh lengthwise and widthwise so the diamonds open evenly. Line up the vertical columns of diamonds by eye.
- Lay it flat on a blocking mat. Pin the top and bottom bands so the tube is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and 18.1 in (46.0 cm) tall.
- Shape the covered ring into a smooth circle and smooth the bottom fold created by Rnd 6.
- Let it dry completely, then remove the pins and the filling.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The base ring lies flat and the bottom opening is 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across.
- The bottom band is 1.1 in (2.8 cm) tall with a crisp fold line.
- Every mesh round has exactly 12 ch-5 loops.
- The diamonds are even in size and the columns run vertically.
- The top band has 48 sts and is 2 in (5.1 cm) tall.
- The body measures 18.1 in (46.0 cm) × 6 in (15.2 cm) flat.
- No wood shows through the ring cover.
- The tab is centered on the back seam and the stitching is invisible from the front.
- All ends are woven in securely.
Troubleshooting
- The base cups or ruffles: Check your stitch counts against Rnds 2–5. If they’re right, change your hook size for the base only.
- The tube flares at the mesh: Your chains are too loose. Ch more firmly or use a 4.5 mm hook for the mesh.
- The diamonds are lopsided: Make sure each mesh sc goes under the whole loop and that you sl st exactly 2 ch into the loop at each round’s start.
- The loop count is wrong: Count your 12 loops at the end of every round. One missed loop throws off all the rounds above it.
- The top band is narrower than the bottom band: Make sure you worked 4 sc in each loop, not 3, in Rnd 31.
- Bags fall out too easily: Work the opening rim, or add a second rim round of 24 sc.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and lay flat to dry, reshaping the mesh while it’s damp. Don’t put the ring in the dryer.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is simple. The 48-stitch circumference gives a 12 in (30.5 cm) tube, 6 in (15.2 cm) wide when flattened. The 5-round bottom band adds 1.1 in (2.8 cm), the 20 mesh rounds add 15 in (38.1 cm), and the 9-round top band adds 2 in (5.1 cm), for a body 18.1 in (46.0 cm) tall. With the ring, the holder hangs at about 20.4 in (51.8 cm). Once you check the gauge at the base, each later stage can be confirmed with a tape measure.
Happy crocheting!