This doorway curtain is a set of long cream cords hung from a wooden dowel. Each cord carries sage green tiered Christmas trees, cream five-point stars, and pearl beads. The trees have three stacked tiers and a fine ridged texture. The stars are plump, with an open center ring and a neat outlined edge.
The colors are soft on purpose: sage green, warm cream, and pearl white. It suits a Scandinavian or cottage-style holiday room.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished curtain is about 33 in (83.8 cm) wide across the outer motifs. It hangs 55.5 in (141.0 cm) from the dowel to the tips of the bottom loops, on a 36 in (91.4 cm) dowel.
You will make 33 trees, 33 stars, and 11 cords. You string the pearls onto each cord as you chain it. Then you sew the motifs onto the cords at marked points and loop the cords over the dowel at even spacing.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 33 in (83.8 cm) wide x 55.5 in (141.0 cm) drop
- Skill level: Easy (confident beginner)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: worsted (#4 medium) cotton
- Hooks: 4.0 mm (G-6) for motifs; 5.0 mm (H-8) for cords
- Number of pieces: 77 (33 trees, 33 stars, 11 cords)
- Layout: 11 strands, each with 6 motifs alternating tree and star
- Tree size: 2.9 in (7.4 cm) wide x 3.8 in (9.7 cm) tall
- Star size: 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tip to tip
- Size before border: cord drop 54 in (137.2 cm) before the bottom loop
- Border depth: no fabric border; the bottom loop adds 1.5 in (3.8 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth worsted cotton. Cotton keeps the tree ridges crisp and the star points sharp. The amounts below assume about 78 m per 50 g.
- Sage green: 150 g (234 m) for 33 trees
- Cream: 250 g (390 m) for 33 stars and 11 cords (the cords use two strands held together)
Tools and notions:
- 4.0 mm (G-6) and 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hooks
- 66 large-hole faux pearl beads, 12 mm, with holes of at least 4 mm (buy a few extra)
- Wooden dowel, 36 in (91.4 cm) long and 1 in (2.5 cm) thick, plus two cup hooks or brackets
- Tapestry needle and a dental-floss loop to use as a bead threader
- Stitch markers, measuring tape, rust-proof pins, and a blocking mat
All quantities include a margin of about 20% for tails, test swatches, and a spare motif.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rep – repeat
- B – bead chain (see below)
Special stitch – bead chain (B): Slide one pearl up against the hook. Yarn over beyond the pearl and pull through the loop on the hook. The pearl is now locked inside that chain. Each B counts as 1 ch.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Motif gauge (4.0 mm hook): 18 sc and 20 rows in BLO = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Cord gauge (5.0 mm hook, two strands of cream held together): 12 ch = 4 in (10.2 cm), which is 3 ch per inch.
Make one tree and one star first, and check them at these points.
Tree:
– After Row 6 (tier 1): 2 in (5.1 cm) wide, 1.2 in (3.0 cm) tall
– After Row 12 (tier 2): 2.4 in (6.1 cm) at the widest row
– After Row 19: 2.9 in (7.4 cm) wide x 3.8 in (9.7 cm) tall
Star:
– After Round 1: 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across
– After Round 2: 1.6 in (4.1 cm) across
– After Round 4: 2.75 in (7.0 cm) tip to tip
Cord: chain 24. With light tension, it should measure 8 in (20.3 cm).
If your motifs are too big, go down one hook size. If they are too small, go up one size. The cord gauge matters most, because every position on the strand is counted in chains. If your 24 ch is off by more than 0.25 in (0.6 cm), adjust before you make all 11 cords.
Tree (make 33, sage green)
You work the tree flat, from the top point down. Every row after Row 1 is worked in BLO, which makes the horizontal ridges. At Rows 7 and 13, you slip stitch past 2 stitches and leave 2 stitches unworked at the end. This makes the stepped, three-tier outline.
At the end of each row, ch 1 and turn. The ch 1 does not count as a stitch. The exception is Rows 6 and 12: turn at the end of those rows without making a chain.
Tier 1
- Row 1: With the 4.0 mm hook, ch 2. Work 3 sc in the 2nd ch from the hook. (3 sc)
- Row 2: Inc in first st, sc in next st, inc in last st. (5 sc)
- Row 3: Sc in each st across. (5 sc)
- Row 4: Inc, sc in next 3 sts, inc. (7 sc)
- Row 5: Sc across. (7 sc)
- Row 6: Inc, sc in next 5 sts, inc. (9 sc)
Tier 2
- Row 7 (step row): Sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next 5 sts. Leave the last 2 sts unworked. (2 sl st + 5 sc + 2 unworked = 9; new row count 5 sc)
- Row 8: Inc, sc in next 3 sts, inc. (7 sc)
- Row 9: Sc across. (7 sc)
- Row 10: Inc, sc in next 5 sts, inc. (9 sc)
- Row 11: Sc across. (9 sc)
- Row 12: Inc, sc in next 7 sts, inc. (11 sc)
Tier 3
- Row 13 (step row): Sl st in first 2 sts, ch 1, sc in next 7 sts. Leave the last 2 sts unworked. (2 sl st + 7 sc + 2 unworked = 11; new row count 7 sc)
- Row 14: Inc, sc in next 5 sts, inc. (9 sc)
- Row 15: Sc across. (9 sc)
- Row 16: Inc, sc in next 7 sts, inc. (11 sc)
- Row 17: Sc across. (11 sc)
- Row 18: Inc, sc in next 9 sts, inc. (13 sc)
- Row 19: Sc across. (13 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail for sewing. Weave in the starting tail. The 2 stitches you skip on each side form a ledge about 0.45 in (1.1 cm) wide. That ledge is what makes each tier look like a separate layer.
Star (make 33, cream)
Work in the round with the right side facing you. Do not turn.
- Round 1: With the 4.0 mm hook, make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 14 dc in the ring, then sl st to the top of the ch-3. Pull the ring closed, but leave a small opening in the center. (15 dc)
- Round 2: Ch 1. *Sc in next st, 2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * 4 more times. Sl st to first sc. (15 sts worked 1-per-stitch + 5 extra = 20 sc)
- Round 3 (points): *Ch 5. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, tr in next ch. Skip the next 3 sts of Round 2 and sl st in the next st. Rep from * 4 more times; the last sl st lands in the first st. (5 points, each using 4 sts: 5 x 4 = 20)
- Round 4 (outline): *Work 4 sc up the chain side of the point (1 in each unused ch loop), work (sc, ch 2, sc) in the tip ch, then work 4 sc down the stitch side (1 in the top of each sc, hdc, dc, and tr). Sc in the sl st between points. Rep from * 4 more times. Sl st to first sc. (11 sc per point: 4 + 2 + 4 + 1; total 55 sc and 5 ch-2 tips)
Fasten off, leaving a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. Round 4 gives the star its raised edge and sharp tips. The dc stitches from Round 1 frame the open center ring.
Make All Pieces
- Sage green: 33 trees
- Cream: 33 stars
- Cream, two strands held together: 11 cords, each with 6 pearls (66 total)
Number the strands 1 to 11 from left to right. Odd-numbered strands start with a tree, and even-numbered strands start with a star. Each strand gets 3 trees and 3 stars, so 11 x 3 = 33 of each.
Position 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
1 (6 in) T S T S T S T S T S T
2 (14 in) S T S T S T S T S T S
3 (22 in) T S T S T S T S T S T
4 (30 in) S T S T S T S T S T S
5 (38 in) T S T S T S T S T S T
6 (46 in) S T S T S T S T S T S
T = tree, S = star. Each depth is measured down from where the top loop closes.
Cords (make 11, two strands of cream held together)
Thread 6 pearls onto the doubled yarn and push them down toward the ball.
- Top loop: With the 5.0 mm hook, ch 12, then sl st in the first ch. This 4 in (10.2 cm) ring slides over the dowel.
- Drop: Ch 29, B. (30 ch; pearl 1)
- Rep [ch 23, B] 5 times. (Pearls at ch 54, 78, 102, 126, and 150)
- Ch 12. (162 ch = 54 in / 137.2 cm)
- Bottom loop: Ch 9, then sl st in the 10th ch from the hook (the 162nd ch). Fasten off.
The pearls sit at 10, 18, 26, 34, 42, and 50 in (25.4, 45.7, 66.0, 86.4, 106.7, and 127.0 cm). The bottom loop folds to about 1.5 in (3.8 cm), which makes the full drop 55.5 in (141.0 cm).
Joining
Sew each motif to the front of its cord, centered between two pearls. The motif centers are at ch 18, 42, 66, 90, 114, and 138. That is 6, 14, 22, 30, 38, and 46 in (15.2, 35.6, 55.9, 76.2, 96.5, and 116.8 cm) below where the top loop closes.
Stitch-to-stitch logic: Each pearl sits 12 ch (4 in / 10.2 cm) from the motif center on either side. Because the spacing is counted from motif centers, it stays the same even though trees are taller than stars.
- Mark the center chain of each position.
- Lay the motif face up, with the cord running down the middle of its back.
- Tree: With the sage tail, sew the Row 1 tip to the cord 1.9 in (4.8 cm) above the marker. Then sew the 7th sc of Row 19 to the cord 1.9 in (4.8 cm) below the marker.
- Star: With the cream tail, sew the top ch-2 tip 1.4 in (3.6 cm) above the marker. Then sew the sc between the two bottom points directly below it.
- Use 3 small whipstitches at each point, and pass the needle through the chain rather than around it.
Tension: Pull each stitch only until it is snug. Pulling hard bunches the cord and makes the strand shorter.
Size checkpoint: Hang a strand and measure it. From where the top loop closes to the tip of the bottom loop, it should be 55.5 in (141.0 cm), within 0.5 in (1.3 cm).
Border
A curtain has no fabric border. What frames it is the spacing on the dowel and the matching loops at the bottom.
Border gauge: the strands hang 3 in (7.6 cm) apart, center to center.
- Top edge: Hang strand 6 at the center of the dowel, then hang the others outward at 3 in (7.6 cm) intervals. 10 gaps x 3 in = 30 in (76.2 cm) between the two outer cords. That leaves 3 in (7.6 cm) free at each end of the 36 in (91.4 cm) dowel.
- Side edges: The outer trees stick out 1.45 in (3.7 cm) past their cords: 30 + 1.45 + 1.45 = 32.9 in, so the curtain is about 33 in (83.8 cm) wide.
- Bottom edge: Every cord is 162 ch plus a 9-ch loop, so the bottoms line up evenly.
Why the math works: Every position is counted from the same starting point with the same 24-ch repeat. As long as your cord gauge matches, all six rows of motifs stay level across the 11 strands.
Final Blocking
- Lightly mist the trees and stars with water.
- Pin each tree to 2.9 x 3.8 in (7.4 x 9.7 cm). Keep the tier ledges crisp and the ridges horizontal.
- Pin each star by its 5 tips to 2.75 in (7.0 cm), with the center ring open.
- Let them dry completely before you sew them on.
- After joining, hang each strand and steam the cords from 2 in (5.1 cm) away. Keep the steam off the pearls.
- Leave the strands hanging overnight so the cords straighten.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- 33 trees, each with 13 sc in Row 19 and two clear tier ledges
- 33 stars, each with 55 sc and 5 sharp tips
- 11 cords, each with 162 ch, a 9-ch loop, and 6 pearls
- Motifs placed to match the layout grid
- Each motif sewn at two points and hanging flat
- Strands 3 in (7.6 cm) apart
- All tails woven in
Troubleshooting
- Tree curls: Check that every row after Row 1 is in BLO, then block firmly.
- Tier steps don’t show: Leave the 2 end stitches unworked on Rows 7 and 13.
- Star cups: Round 2 is too tight. Go up one hook size for Rounds 1 and 2.
- Pearls won’t go on: Use a floss loop as a threader, or switch to beads with 5 mm holes.
- Strands are different lengths: Recount the chains. Every 3 ch is 1 in (2.5 cm).
- Motifs flip over: Add a third stitch at the center.
- Cords twist: Clip a light weight to the bottom loop and steam the cord.
Care
Dust gently, or hand wash in cool water and dry flat. Store the strands loosely rolled around a cardboard tube.
Final Notes
Each measurement sets up the next one. Motif gauge makes the tree 2.9 x 3.8 in (7.4 x 9.7 cm) and the star 2.75 in (7.0 cm). Cord gauge makes 24 ch measure 8 in (20.3 cm), which places six motifs and six pearls on a 54 in (137.2 cm) cord. The bottom loop brings the drop to 55.5 in (141.0 cm). Eleven strands spaced 3 in (7.6 cm) apart span 30 in (76.2 cm), for a curtain about 33 in (83.8 cm) wide. Check each step, and every strand will hang evenly.
Happy crocheting!