This sun visor organizer keeps sunglasses, a parking card, and a gas card where you can reach them. It is a firm sage green panel with rounded corners, a two-layer pocket on the right, and a raised olive branch on the left in cream, dark olive, and moss green.
The look is calm and natural. The panel is solid single crochet, so it stays flat and doesn’t sag. The appliqué gives it texture: a chain-cord stem, pointed leaves, and small stuffed olives.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished organizer measures about 13 x 7 in (33.0 x 17.8 cm), not counting the straps.
You will work a rectangular panel in rows and add a two-round border. Then you make two pocket layers, two straps, and the appliqué pieces. Everything is sewn together at the end. The pocket goes on first, then the straps, then the branch.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: about 13 x 7 in (33.0 x 17.8 cm)
- Skill level: Easy to Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 4.5 mm (US 7)
- Number of pieces: 1 main panel plus attachments (2 pocket layers, 2 straps, 1 stem, 2 side branches, 11 leaves, 3 olives)
- Layout: pocket on the right, olive branch on the left, straps on top
- Panel size before border: 12 x 6 in (30.5 x 15.2 cm)
- Border depth: about ½ in (1.3 cm) per side
- Pocket size: back layer about 6.5 x 4.5 in (16.5 x 11.4 cm); front layer about 6.5 x 3.1 in (16.5 x 7.9 cm)
Materials
Use a smooth worsted cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape, handles sun and heat well, and shows the stitch texture clearly. Acrylic is fine too, but it will stretch more around the straps.
- Sage green (A): 100 g, about 183 m (panel, pockets, straps)
- Cream (B): 15 g, about 27 m (stem, branches, large leaves)
- Dark olive green (C): 10 g, about 18 m (small leaves)
- Moss olive green (D): 10 g, about 18 m (olives)
Quantities include extra yarn for your gauge check and sewing tails.
Tools:
– 4.5 mm (US 7) crochet hook
– Tapestry needle
– Stitch markers
– Small amount of fiberfill
– Rustproof pins
– Measuring tape
– Scissors
– Spray bottle and blocking mat
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- BLO – back loop only
- MR – magic ring
- RS – right side
Special stitch – Back-bump slip stitch: Insert hook under the bump on the back of the chain, yarn over, and pull through the bump and the loop on the hook. This makes a firm, rounded cord.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) in sc rows.
Make one strap first (see below). It works as your gauge swatch. Its 5 stitches should measure 1.25 in (3.2 cm) wide, and 18 rows should measure 4 in (10.2 cm).
Checkpoints:
– Panel after Row 9: 12 in (30.5 cm) wide, 2 in (5.1 cm) tall
– Panel after Row 27: 12 x 6 in (30.5 x 15.2 cm)
– Panel after border: about 13 x 7 in (33.0 x 17.8 cm)
– Back pocket before edging: 6 x 4 in (15.2 x 10.2 cm)
– Front pocket before edging: 6 x 2.7 in (15.2 x 6.9 cm)
If your piece is too big, go down a hook size. If it’s too small, go up a hook size. Fix it at Row 9, not at the end. Being half an inch off across the width will show when you place the pocket.
Main Panel
With A, ch 49.
Row 1 (RS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (48 sc)
Rows 2–27: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), sc in each st across, turn. (48 sc)
Check: 12 x 6 in (30.5 x 15.2 cm). Do not fasten off. Continue straight into the Border section below.
Straps (make 2)
With A, ch 6.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (5 sc)
Rows 2–45: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (5 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Each strap measures 1.25 x 10 in (3.2 x 25.4 cm).
Sizing tip: Every 9 rows adds 2 in (5.1 cm). Measure from the top edge of your visor, around the back, to the bottom edge. Add 2 in (5.1 cm) for the overlap.
Pocket Layers
Back Pocket
With A, ch 25.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (24 sc)
Rows 2–18: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (24 sc)
Edging round: Ch 1. Work 3 sc in the first st, sc in the next 22 sts, then 3 sc in the last st. Work 1 sc in each row end of Rows 17–2 (16 sc). Along the foundation chain, work 3 sc in the first ch, sc in the next 22 ch, then 3 sc in the last ch. Work 1 sc in each row end of Rows 2–17 (16 sc). Sl st to the first sc.
Count: 22 + 16 + 22 + 16 between the corners, plus 4 corner groups of 3 = 92 sc. Fasten off. Size is about 6.5 x 4.5 in (16.5 x 11.4 cm).
Front Pocket
With A, ch 25.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, turn. (24 sc)
Rows 2–12: Ch 1, sc in each st across, turn. (24 sc)
Edging round: Work as for the back pocket, but with 10 sc along each side (row ends of Rows 11–2 and 2–11).
Count: 22 + 10 + 22 + 10 between the corners, plus 4 corner groups of 3 = 76 sc. Fasten off, leaving a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail. Size is about 6.5 x 3.1 in (16.5 x 7.9 cm).
Olive Branch Appliqué
Stem and Side Branches
Main stem: With B, ch 31. Back-bump sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (30 sl st) It should be about 6 in (15.2 cm) long.
Side branches (make 2): With B, ch 9. Back-bump sl st in the 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (8 sl st) Each should be about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) long.
Large Cream Leaves (make 6)
With B, ch 9.
Round 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, work sl st, sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc (7 sts). In the last ch, work (sc, ch 2, sc) for the tip. Turn the piece and work along the other side of the chain: sc, hdc, dc, dc, hdc, sc, sl st (7 sts). Sl st into the base ch.
Count: 7 + 2 sc + ch-2 tip + 7 = 16 sts plus the tip chain.
Round 2: Sl st in BLO in each st around, working 1 sl st into the ch-2 tip space. Fasten off. This makes the crisp raised rim and the pointed tip. Each leaf is about 1.75 in (4.4 cm) long.
Small Dark Olive Leaves (make 5)
With C, ch 7.
Round 1: Starting in the 2nd ch from hook, work sl st, sc, hdc, hdc, sc (5 sts). In the last ch, work (sc, ch 1, sc). Along the other side, work sc, hdc, hdc, sc, sl st (5 sts). Sl st into the base ch.
Count: 5 + 2 sc + ch-1 tip + 5 = 12 sts plus the tip chain. Fasten off with a long tail. Each leaf is about 1.25 in (3.2 cm) long.
Olives (make 3)
With D:
Round 1: 6 sc in MR. (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each st around. (12)
Rounds 3–5: Sc in each st around. (12)
Round 6: Sc2tog 6 times. (6)
Stuff the olive firmly before closing. Weave the tail through the front loops and pull it closed. Each olive is about 1 x 0.75 in (2.5 x 1.9 cm).
Make All Pieces: Piece List and Layout
This is a single organizer, so there is no motif grid. Check that you have:
- A: 1 panel, 2 straps, 1 back pocket, 1 front pocket
- B: 1 stem, 2 side branches, 6 large leaves
- C: 5 small leaves
- D: 3 olives
Layout of the front, with the top at the top:
[strap] [strap]
+------------------------------------+
| leaves / +--------------+ |
| olive branch | back pocket | |
| / olives +--------------+ |
| / | front pocket | |
+------------------------------------+
Joining: Assembly
Finish the panel’s border (see Border below) before you start assembly.
1. Stack the pockets. Lay the front pocket on the back pocket with the bottom edges and side edges lined up. Whipstitch along the bottom through the outer loops of both edgings, one stitch to one stitch. The bottoms match exactly, with 22 sc plus the corner groups on each. Then sew up the 10 side stitches of the front pocket on each side, into the matching back-pocket side stitches.
2. Attach the pockets. Place the stack on the panel. Its right edge should sit 0.5 in (1.3 cm) in from the panel’s right edge, and its bottom should sit 0.5 in (1.3 cm) up from the panel’s bottom edge, just inside the border. Pin it. Whipstitch the sides and bottom through all layers into the panel stitches behind. Leave the tops open.
3. Attach the straps. Center one strap 3 in (7.6 cm) in from the left edge and the other 3 in (7.6 cm) in from the right edge. On the back of the panel, overlap one end 1 in (2.5 cm) below the top edge and sew it down with a box of whipstitches. Bring the other end around the back of the visor. Overlap it 1 in (2.5 cm) above the bottom edge on the back of the panel and sew it down. Keep the strap untwisted.
4. Sew on the branch. Pin the stem diagonally. Its lower end should be about 1 in (2.5 cm) from the left and bottom edges. Its upper end should be about 5 in (12.7 cm) from the left edge and 1 in (2.5 cm) below the top edge. Tack it down every 2–3 stitches. Tuck the side branches under the stem at about one-third and two-thirds of the way up. Sew the dark leaves close to the stem first. Then sew the cream leaves at the branch tips so they overlap the dark leaves slightly. Last, sew the three olives in a small cluster near the lower middle of the stem, on top of the dark leaves.
Tension: Pull each sewing stitch just snug. If you pull too hard, the panel will pucker behind the pocket.
Size checkpoint: The panel should still lie flat at 13 x 7 in (33.0 x 17.8 cm).
Border
Work the border right after Row 27 of the panel, before assembly. It uses the same gauge as the panel, 16 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). The two rounds together add about ½ in (1.3 cm) on every side.
Round 1: Ch 1. Along the top edge, work 3 sc in the first st, sc in the next 46 sts, then 3 sc in the last st. Down the side, work 1 sc in each row end of Rows 26–2 (25 sc). Along the foundation chain, work 3 sc in the first ch, sc in the next 46 ch, then 3 sc in the last ch. Up the other side, work 1 sc in each row end of Rows 2–26 (25 sc). Sl st to the first sc.
Count: 46 + 25 + 46 + 25 between the corners, plus 4 corner groups of 3 = 154 sc.
Round 2: Ch 1. Work sc in each st around. At each corner group, work 2 sc in the first corner st, 1 sc in the middle corner st, and 2 sc in the last corner st (each group becomes 5). Sl st to the first sc.
Count: 46 + 25 + 46 + 25 between the corners, plus 4 corner groups of 5 = 162 sc. Fasten off and weave in the ends.
Why the math works: Each stitch on the top and bottom edges gets exactly one sc. Each side row end gets one sc, except Rows 1 and 27, where the corner groups already sit. Round 2 adds 2 sts per corner (8 in total) and spreads them across 3 stitches instead of stacking them in 1. That spread is what rounds the corners instead of squaring them.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends before blocking.
- Pin the panel face up to 13 x 7 in (33.0 x 17.8 cm), keeping the corners curved.
- Mist it with water until it’s damp but not soaked.
- Flatten the leaves with your fingers, and pinch each tip to a point.
- Do not press the olives. Let them stay round.
- Let everything dry completely, at least 12 hours.
- Unpin and check the straps for twists.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Panel is 13 x 7 in (33.0 x 17.8 cm) and lies flat
- Border counts are 154 and then 162; the corners are evenly rounded
- Pocket tops are open, and the sides and bottom are closed through all layers
- Sunglasses slide into the front pocket and cards into the back pocket
- Straps are centered 3 in (7.6 cm) from each side and are not twisted
- Every leaf, olive, and the stem is secure, with no loose edges
- No ends show on the front
Troubleshooting
- Sides ripple after the border: Your row ends are crowding the edge. Skip 1 row end every 9 rows on each side (23 sc per side) and adjust the totals to match.
- Corners cup: Your tension is tight in Round 2. Loosen up, or work the middle corner stitch as hdc.
- Panel puckers behind the pocket: Your seams are too tight. Unpick and re-sew more loosely.
- Straps too loose: Remove rows in pairs, or re-sew the ends with a larger overlap.
- Leaves curl: Re-block them flat and pin the tips.
- Olives look lumpy: Add a bit more fiberfill and shape them by rolling between your palms.
Care
Spot clean with mild soap and cool water, then lay flat to dry. Don’t machine dry it, because heat can shrink the cotton and flatten the olives.
Final Notes
The measurement chain goes like this. Gauge of 16 sc and 18 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 48 x 27 panel of 12 x 6 in (30.5 x 15.2 cm). Two border rounds (154, then 162 sc) bring it to 13 x 7 in (33.0 x 17.8 cm). The 24-stitch pocket layers come out at 6.5 in (16.5 cm) wide, and the 45-row straps at 10 in (25.4 cm) long. Check each link as you go, and the organizer will fit your visor neatly.
Happy crocheting!