This plastic bag holder is a soft cream tube covered in rows of overlapping scallop shells. It hangs from a wall hook by a single strap. You push bags in through the top and pull them out one at a time through a small round opening at the bottom. It’s practical, and tidy enough to leave out in a kitchen or entryway.
The design uses one color, a warm cream or natural ecru, so the shell texture does all the work. Each shell is a fan of five double crochets. Every round sits offset from the one below, so the shells stack like fish scales. A plain single crochet band at the top keeps the rim neat and firm.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide when laid flat, 12 in (30.5 cm) around, and 11.5 in (29.2 cm) tall from the bottom opening to the top of the rim. The strap loop adds about 5 in (12.7 cm), for a total hanging length of about 16.5 in (41.9 cm).
The holder is a single piece worked from the bottom up in joined rounds. You start with a chain ring that becomes the dispensing opening and increase over three rounds to make a rounded base. Then you work 15 rounds of shell pattern without increasing. A leveling round and four rounds of single crochet form the rim. The strap is worked in rows straight off the rim and slip-stitched to the opposite side, so there’s no sewing pieces together.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat × 11.5 in (29.2 cm) tall, plus a 5 in (12.7 cm) strap loop
- Circumference: 12 in (30.5 cm)
- Bottom opening: about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across
- Skill level: Easy to intermediate
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 (body, rim and strap are worked continuously)
- Layout: Single tube that hangs vertically from one strap
- Piece size before rim band: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat × 10.5 in (26.7 cm) tall
- Rim band (border) depth: about 1 in (2.5 cm)
- Strap: 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide × 12 in (30.5 cm) long before attaching
Materials
Yarn: Use a worsted weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton keeps the shells crisp and doesn’t sag much when the holder is full. A soft acrylic also works, but it will stretch more over time.
- Cream (natural ecru): 120 g, about 205 m
This amount includes a margin of about 15 percent for checking gauge and for differences in tension. One 100 g ball isn’t enough, so buy two balls from the same dye lot.
Tools:
- 5 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Stitch marker
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Rust-proof pins and a rolled towel or a 4 in (10.2 cm) wide cylinder for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- dc – double crochet
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
- rnd – round
- rep – repeat
Special stitch – Shell: Work 5 dc in the same stitch. The 3rd dc of the five is the center dc.
Gauge and Checkpoints
- Shell pattern: 18 sts (3 shell repeats) = 4 in (10.2 cm) wide; 5 pattern rnds = 3 in (7.6 cm) tall
- Single crochet: 18 sts × 20 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm)
- Double crochet (base): 18 sts = 4 in (10.2 cm)
The sc gauge and the shell gauge are both 4.5 sts per inch. That’s why the rim band sits straight on top of the shell section with no increases or decreases.
Test first: The holder itself is your swatch. Work Rnds 1–9, then check the measurements below before you go on.
- After Rnd 1: The ring measures about 6 in (15.2 cm) around, or about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across.
- After Rnd 4: The edge measures 12 in (30.5 cm) around, or 6 in (15.2 cm) wide when flattened.
- After Rnd 9: The five shell rounds add about 3 in (7.6 cm) of height above the base.
- After Rnd 19: The body is about 10.5 in (26.7 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 24: The body is about 11.5 in (29.2 cm) tall.
If it’s too big: Switch to a 4.5 mm hook and start again. If the holder is too wide, the bottom opening is too loose for its size and bags can fall out.
If it’s too small: Switch to a 5.5 mm hook. The stitch counts stay the same; only the size changes.
Base and Bottom Opening
The base starts as a chain ring, and that ring becomes the dispensing hole. Keep the chain even and not too tight.
Foundation: Ch 27 and sl st to the first ch to form a ring. Make sure the chain isn’t twisted.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in each ch around, sl st to first sc. (27 sts)
Rnd 2 (growth): Ch 3 (counts as dc here and throughout), dc in next st, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * 7 more times; sl st to top of ch-3. (36 sts)
Rnd 3 (growth): Ch 3, dc in next 2 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * 7 more times; sl st to top of ch-3. (45 sts)
Rnd 4 (growth): Ch 3, dc in next 3 sts, 2 dc in next st, dc in next 4 sts, 2 dc in next st; rep from * 7 more times; sl st to top of ch-3. (54 sts)
Each growth round adds 9 sts, one for each shell repeat to come. The base now curves gently outward around the hole, like a shallow bowl, and stands about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
Shell Body
The body has 9 shell repeats. Each repeat uses 6 sts (one 5-dc shell plus one sc), and 9 × 6 = 54 sts, which stays the same in every round. Rounds alternate between Round A, which starts with a shell, and Round B, which starts with an sc. Alternating them is what makes the shells stack like scales.
Rnd 5 (set-up): Ch 1, sc in same st as join, sk 2 sts, shell in next st, sk 2 sts, sc in next st; rep from * 7 more times; sk 2 sts, shell in next st, sk 2 sts, sl st to first sc. (9 shells + 9 sc = 54 sts)
Rnd 6 (Round A): Ch 3, 4 dc in same st as join (first shell made), sk 2 dc, sc in center dc of next shell, sk 2 dc, shell in next sc; rep from * 7 more times; sk 2 dc, sc in center dc of last shell, sl st to top of ch-3. (9 shells + 9 sc = 54 sts)
Rnd 7 (Round B): Sl st in next 2 dc to reach the center dc of the first shell. Ch 1, sc in same st, shell in next sc, sc in center dc of next shell; rep from * 7 more times; shell in last sc, sl st to first sc. (9 sc + 9 shells = 54 sts)
Rnds 8–19: Alternate the two rounds: Round A on even rounds and Round B on odd rounds (8 A, 9 B, 10 A, and so on). Rnd 19 is a Round B. (54 sts each round)
That’s 15 shell rounds in total (Rnds 5–19), or about 9 in (22.9 cm) of shell texture. Each new shell should sit right above an sc from the round below, between two lower shells. If a shell lands on top of another shell, you’ve worked the same round type twice in a row.
Checkpoint: The body measures about 10.5 in (26.7 cm) from the bottom opening and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat.
Rim Band (Border)
Border gauge: 18 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm); 5 rnds ≈ 1 in (2.5 cm).
Laid flat, the tube has two sides of 27 sts each: 27 + 27 = 54 sts. A tube has no corners, so there are no corner sts to count.
Rnd 20 (conversion/leveling): The top of Rnd 19 is uneven, with high shells and low sc valleys. Ch 3 in the joining sc, sc in each of next 5 dc, dc in next sc; rep from * 7 more times; sc in each of last 5 dc, sl st to top of ch-3.
(54 sts worked 1 per existing st + 0 added = 54 sts: 45 sc + 9 dc)
The taller dc fills each valley and the sc sits on each shell, so the edge comes out level.
Rnds 21–24: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (54 sts each round; 27 per side when flat)
Why the math works: The shell pattern and the sc band have the same stitch gauge, 4.5 sts per inch. So 54 sts measure 12 in (30.5 cm) around in both fabrics. The leveling round keeps exactly 54 sts, so the rim doesn’t ruffle or pull in.
Don’t fasten off. Go straight into the strap.
Strap
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in first 6 sts of the rim. (6 sts)
Rows 2–60: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (6 sts each row)
The strap is about 12 in (30.5 cm) long and 1.3 in (3.3 cm) wide.
Attach: The strap grows from rim sts 1–6, so the sts directly opposite are 28–33. Count around the rim to find them, and make sure the strap isn’t twisted. Hold the last row of the strap against the inside of rim sts 28–33 and sl st through both layers, one strap st to one rim st. (6 sl sts) Fasten off and leave a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail. Use the tail to whipstitch the strap sides to the rim for extra strength.
When the holder hangs, the strap arches about 5 in (12.7 cm) above the rim.
Bottom Opening Edge
Bags pass through the opening all the time, so it needs a firm edge.
Turn the holder upside down. Join yarn in any free loop on the back of the foundation chain. Ch 1, sc in each free loop around, sl st to first sc. (27 sts) Fasten off.
This edge rolls slightly and keeps the hole at 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends. Run each end in at least two directions through solid dc or sc stitches.
- Soak the holder in cool water for 10 minutes. Press out the water without wringing.
- Roll it in a towel to remove more moisture.
- Slide a rolled towel or a 4 in (10.2 cm) wide cylinder inside to hold a round shape.
- Gently open each shell with your fingers so the fans spread evenly.
- Lay the strap flat and pin it straight to 12 in (30.5 cm) long.
- Let it dry completely, then check that it measures 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat and 11.5 in (29.2 cm) tall.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Every round from Rnd 4 through Rnd 24 has 54 sts.
- Every shell round has 9 shells, each offset from the round below.
- The rim is level, with no dips above the old sc valleys.
- The bottom opening is round and about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across.
- The strap is attached directly opposite its starting point and isn’t twisted.
- The holder measures 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat and 11.5 in (29.2 cm) tall.
- All ends are woven in and hidden.
Troubleshooting
Shells stack straight up instead of offsetting: You worked two Round As or two Round Bs in a row. Undo the stitches back to the mistake and alternate the rounds.
Stitch count drifts to 53 or 55: This usually means a missed or doubled sc between shells. Count the shells after every round; there should be 9.
The bottom opening is too tight: The foundation chain was tight. Remake it with a hook one size larger, then switch back to the 5 mm hook for Rnd 1.
Bags fall out of the bottom: The opening is too large. Work one more sc round around it, spacing sc2tog evenly, to bring it down to 24 sts.
The rim flares: Your sc is looser than your dc. Work Rnds 21–24 with a 4.5 mm hook.
The strap stretches: Use cotton yarn and whipstitch the strap sides firmly to the rim.
Care
Hand wash in cool water, press out the water gently, and dry flat over a rolled towel to keep the tube shape. Avoid the dryer, because heat can shrink cotton and flatten the shells.
Final Notes
Here’s how the measurements build on each other:
- A 27-st ring gives the 1.9 in (4.8 cm) opening.
- Three growth rounds take the base to 54 sts: 12 in (30.5 cm) around and 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat.
- Fifteen shell rounds of 9 repeats each add 9 in (22.9 cm).
- A 54-st leveling round plus four sc rounds add the 1 in (2.5 cm) rim.
- A 60-row strap makes the hanging loop.
If each checkpoint matches, the finished holder will match too. Hang it on a sturdy hook, fill it from the top, and pull bags out from the bottom.
Happy crocheting!