Violet Bloom Toilet Paper Holder Crochet Pattern

The Violet Bloom holder hangs a spare toilet roll on a lacy lilac flower. A deep plum basket sits in the middle of a six-petal mesh backing. A band of lilac blossoms and sage stems wraps the basket, and a few sage leaves soften the outline.

The palette has three colors: soft lilac, deep plum and muted sage. Cotton keeps the stitches crisp, and the open mesh keeps the backing light enough to hang from a single door hook.

This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished backing measures 12.25 in (31.1 cm) across. The basket is 5.25 in (13.3 cm) wide and 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, which fits a standard roll of about 4.5 in (11.4 cm).

You will make the backing in rounds and then add the petals in rows. Next you make the basket in rounds, then a band in rounds, followed by small flowers, leaves and a strap. Finally you sew everything together.

Finished Size and Construction

  • Finished size: backing 12.25 in (31.1 cm) across; basket 5.25 in (13.3 cm) wide x 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall
  • Skill level: Intermediate
  • Terminology: US
  • Yarn weight: worsted (#4) cotton
  • Hook: 4.0 mm (G/6)
  • Number of pieces: 18 (1 backing, 1 basket, 1 band, 6 flowers, 8 leaves, 1 strap)
  • Layout: basket centered on the backing, band around the basket, strap on the top petal
  • Backing center disc: 6.25 in (15.9 cm)
  • Backing size before border: 11.25 in (28.6 cm)
  • Border depth: 0.5 in (1.3 cm) per side

Materials

Use a smooth, mercerized or matte worsted cotton. The amounts below assume about 85 m per 50 g.

  • Lilac: 110 g (187 m) for the backing and flower petals
  • Plum: 75 g (128 m) for the basket, band edges and flower centers
  • Sage: 30 g (51 m) for the stems, leaves, strap and embroidery

These quantities include a margin of about 10 percent.

Tools: 4.0 mm (G/6) hook, tapestry needle, 4 stitch markers, rust-proof pins, blocking mat, spray bottle, scissors.

Abbreviations (US Terms)

  • ch – chain
  • sl st – slip stitch
  • sc – single crochet
  • hdc – half double crochet
  • dc – double crochet
  • trtr – triple treble crochet
  • BLO – back loop only
  • sp – space
  • st(s) – stitch(es)
  • rev sc – reverse single crochet

Triple treble (trtr): Yarn over 4 times. Insert the hook into the stitch and pull up a loop (6 loops on hook). Then [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] 5 times.

Reverse sc (rev sc): Work sc from left to right (right-handed). This makes the twisted, rope-like edge.

Mesh unit: (dc, ch 1). When counting a round, count each dc and each ch as 1 stitch.

Gauge and Checkpoints

  • Single crochet gauge: 16 sts and 18 rows of sc = 4 in (10.2 cm).
  • Double crochet gauge: 16 sts and 8 rows of dc = 4 in (10.2 cm).

Test one piece first. Work the backing through Round 6 and measure it:

  • After Round 2: 2.25 in (5.7 cm)
  • After Round 4: 4.25 in (10.8 cm)
  • After Round 6: 6.25 in (15.9 cm)

Then work the basket base through Round 11. It should measure 5.25 in (13.3 cm).

  • If your pieces are too big: go down 0.5 mm.
  • If they are too small: go up 0.5 mm.
  • If the mesh ruffles: loosen your chains.
  • If the mesh cups: tighten your chains.
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Backing (Lilac)

Center Disc

Round 1: Make a magic ring. Ch 3 (counts as dc), work 11 dc in the ring, then sl st to the top of the ch-3. (12 dc)

Round 2: Sl st into the next sp. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), then work (dc, ch 1) in each remaining dc around. Sl st to the 3rd ch of the ch-4. (12 dc, 12 ch-1 sps = 24 sts)

Round 3: Sl st into the first ch-1 sp. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1), then work (dc, ch 1) in the same sp. Work (dc, ch 1) in the next sp. Work (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1) in the next sp, then (dc, ch 1) in the next sp. Repeat from * to * 5 times. Join. (18 units = 36 sts)

Round 4: Work as Round 3, but use this repeat: (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1) in the next sp, then (dc, ch 1) in each of the next 2 sps. Work the repeat 6 times in total. (24 units = 48 sts)

Round 5: Repeat: (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1) in the next sp, then (dc, ch 1) in each of the next 3 sps. Work it 6 times. (30 units = 60 sts)

Round 6: Repeat: (dc, ch 1, dc, ch 1) in the next sp, then (dc, ch 1) in each of the next 4 sps. Work it 6 times. (36 units = 72 sts) Fasten off.

Checkpoint: 6.25 in (15.9 cm) across.

Place a marker in every 6th ch-1 sp. This divides the edge into six segments of 6 sps each, one segment per petal.

Petals (make 6, one per segment)

Row 1: Join yarn with a sl st in sp 1 of a segment. Ch 4 (counts as dc + ch 1) and work dc in the same sp. [Ch 1, dc in the next sp] 5 times. Ch 1, then dc in the same sp (sp 6). (8 dc, 7 sps; width 3.75 in / 9.5 cm)

Row 2 (increase): Ch 4, turn. Dc in the first ch-1 sp. Ch 1, dc in the next sp. Repeat from * to * across. Ch 1, then dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch. (9 dc, 8 sps; width 4.25 in / 10.8 cm)

Row 3: Repeat Row 2. (10 dc, 9 sps; width 4.75 in / 12.1 cm)

Row 4 (even): Ch 4, turn. Dc in the next dc, ch 1. Repeat across, then dc in the 3rd ch of the turning ch. (10 dc, 9 sps)

Row 5 (narrowing): Turn and sl st into the first sp. Ch 3 (counts as dc). [Ch 1, dc in the next sp] 8 times. (9 dc, 8 sps; width 4.25 in / 10.8 cm) Fasten off.

Join the next petal in the first sp of the next segment. The petals sit side by side, and the valleys open above Round 6.

Checkpoint: 11.25 in (28.6 cm) from petal tip to opposite petal tip.

Basket (Plum)

Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 6 sc in it. (6)

Rounds 2–11: On each round, increase evenly by 6 sts. Round n has 6n sts: Round 2 has 12, Round 3 has 18, and so on up to Round 11, which has 66 sc.

Checkpoint: the base is 5.25 in (13.3 cm) across.

Round 12: Sc BLO in each st. (66) This round turns the wall up.

Rounds 13–26: Sc in each st. (66 per round)

Round 27: Rev sc in each st. (66) Fasten off.

Checkpoint: 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall, with a circumference of 16.5 in (41.9 cm).

Flower Band (Plum and Sage)

Round 1 (plum): Ch 66 and join into a ring without twisting. Ch 1, then sc in each ch. (66 sc)

Round 2: Sc in each st. (66)

Round 3 (sage): Join sage. Ch 6 (counts as trtr), then trtr in the next st. Ch 9, skip 9, trtr in each of the next 2 sts. Repeat from * to * 4 times, then ch 9, skip 9. Join to the top of the ch-6. (12 trtr + 54 ch = 66 sts; 6 stem pairs, 6 windows)

Round 4 (plum): Sc in each trtr and in each ch. (12 + 54 = 66 sc)

Round 5: Sc in each st. (66) Fasten off.

Checkpoint: 2 in (5.1 cm) tall. Each window is about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) wide and 1.25 in (3.2 cm) high.

Embroidery: With sage, work 2 lazy-daisy leaves at the base of each stem pair and 2 at the top, angled outward into a Y-shape. (24 leaves total)

Small Flowers (make 6)

Round 1 (plum): Make a magic ring. Ch 1 and work 10 sc in the ring, then join. (10 sc) Fasten off.

Round 2 (lilac): Sl st in the next sc. Ch 2, then 2 dc in the same sc. Work 2 dc in the next sc. Ch 2, then sl st in the same sc. Repeat from * to * 5 times. (5 petals of 4 dc each = 20 dc)

Checkpoint: 1.75 in (4.4 cm) across.

Leaves (Sage, make 8)

Ch 7. Count the working chains from the hook as chs 1–6, skipping the first ch.

  1. Sc in ch 1, hdc in ch 2, dc in ch 3, dc in ch 4, hdc in ch 5.
  2. In ch 6, work (sc, ch 2, sc) for the leaf tip.
  3. Working down the other side of the chain: hdc in ch 5, dc in ch 4, dc in ch 3, hdc in ch 2, sc in ch 1.
  4. Sl st to the first sc.

(12 sts + ch-2 tip) The leaf is 1.5 in (3.8 cm) long.

Hanging Strap (Sage)

Row 1: Ch 29. Sc in the 2nd ch from the hook and in each ch across. (28 sc)

Row 2: Ch 1, turn, and sc across. (28) Fasten off.

The strap is 7 in (17.8 cm) long, so it folds into a 3.5 in (8.9 cm) loop.

Make All Pieces

Piece Qty Color
Backing 1 lilac
Basket 1 plum
Band 1 plum, sage
Flowers 6 plum centers, lilac petals
Leaves 8 sage
Strap 1 sage

Placement layout (front view):

            [ strap ]
         (   top petal   )
   (petal)  L  [rim]  L  (petal)
          L  [ BAND ]  L
   (petal)  L [basket] L (petal)
          L   [base]   L
         ( bottom petal  )

L = leaf: 2 at the rim corners, 2 on each side, 2 under the base.

Joining

Use whipstitch with matching yarn. On the backing, catch dc posts, not chains, so the mesh stays even.

  1. Band to basket: Slide the band onto the basket so that band Round 1 lines up with basket Round 16. Sew stitch to stitch, 66 sts to 66 sts. Then sew band Round 5 to basket Round 24 the same way. Because the counts match exactly, the band cannot twist or pucker.
  2. Flowers: Center one flower in each window, overlapping the plum edges slightly. Sew around Round 1 of the flower.
  3. Basket to backing: Flatten the back third of the basket, which is 22 of its 66 sts. Center it horizontally on the backing, with the base 3 in (7.6 cm) above the bottom petal tip. Sew those 22 sts of Round 12 to the backing. Then sew up both side columns from Round 12 to Round 26. Leave the rim free.
  4. Leaves: Tuck each leaf base behind the basket edge and sew only the base, so the tips stay loose.
  5. Strap: Fold the strap in half. Sew both ends to the back of the top petal across Rows 4–5.

Keep your tension relaxed. Tight seams pull the mesh into puckers.

Checkpoint: the backing still measures 11.25 in (28.6 cm) before the border.

Border (Lilac)

Border gauge: 4 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm). Work the border before attaching the strap if that is easier for you.

Round 1: Join at the right edge of any petal. Work each petal as follows:

  • Up the side: 1 sc in the end of Row 1, then 2 sc in the end of each of Rows 2–5. (9 sc)
  • Across the top: 3 sc in the first dc. Then 1 sc in each of the 8 sps and in each of the 7 inner dc. Finish with 3 sc in the last dc. (21 sc)
  • Down the side: 2 sc in the end of each of Rows 5–2, then 1 sc in the end of Row 1. (9 sc)
  • Valley: 1 spike sc into Round 6 between the petals. (1 sc)

That gives 40 sc per petal, and 6 x 40 = 240 sc in total. Join.

Round 2: Rev sc in each st. (240) Fasten off.

Why the math works: Each petal edge is about 10 in (25.4 cm) long. At 4 sc per inch, 40 sc covers that length exactly, so the edge lies flat. The 3-sc corners round the shoulders of each petal, and the single valley stitch keeps the dips sharp.

Final size: 12.25 in (31.1 cm) across.

Final Blocking

  1. Mist the backing until it is damp but not dripping.
  2. Pin it to 12.25 in (31.1 cm), opening every petal into a round shape.
  3. Pin each ch-1 sp open along the border.
  4. Fit a roll inside the basket so it holds its cylinder shape.
  5. Let everything dry completely, then remove the pins.

Final Quality-Control Checklist

  • The backing has 72 sts in Round 6 and 240 sts in the border.
  • All six petals match: Row 3 is 10 dc, and Row 5 is 9 dc.
  • The basket has 66 sts on every wall round.
  • The band has 6 stem pairs and 6 flowers, evenly spaced.
  • All the leaves angle outward.
  • The strap is secure and centered on the top petal.
  • All yarn ends are woven in through solid stitches.

Troubleshooting

  • The backing cups: your chains are too tight. Loosen them, or block harder.
  • The petals flare: check the Row 2–3 counts. You should add exactly 1 dc per row.
  • The band is loose on the basket: your foundation chain is too relaxed. Rework Round 1 with tighter tension.
  • The basket sags: stitch a second seam along the side columns.
  • The flowers curl: steam-block them flat before sewing them on.

Care

Hand wash in cool water and lay flat to dry, reshaping the petals while damp. Avoid wringing, because it stretches the mesh.

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Final Notes

Here is the measurement chain:

  • Center disc: 6.25 in (15.9 cm)
  • Petals: 11.25 in (28.6 cm)
  • Border: 12.25 in (31.1 cm)
  • Basket: 66 sts, which equals 16.5 in (41.9 cm)
  • Band: 66 sts, sewn stitch to stitch onto the basket

If you hit every checkpoint, the parts fit together without guesswork.

Happy crocheting!

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