This hanging plastic-bag holder is a tall oval tube in cream with navy stripes. An olive branch sits across the front, and a small cluster of leaves, olives and flowers decorates the top corner. You push used grocery bags in through the open top and pull them out one at a time through a round, cream-trimmed opening at the bottom front.
The colors are cream, navy and olive green, with a little yellow in the flower centers. The style is rustic Mediterranean kitchen: firm single crochet, crisp stripe bands with small cream dots, and a cross-stitched olive sprig that looks like a pixel picture.
The pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is 12.8 in (32.5 cm) tall and about 7 in (17.8 cm) wide when it hangs flat. It measures 14.2 in (36.1 cm) around, and a navy strap forms the hanging loop.
Construction is simple. You crochet an oval base, then work the body straight up in joined rounds, leaving a chain slit for the opening. Then you add a navy rim, trim the opening, cross-stitch the olive branch, and sew on the strap and the 3D cluster.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 12.8 in (32.5 cm) tall x 7 in (17.8 cm) wide laid flat; 14.2 in (36.1 cm) around
- Skill level: Intermediate (simple colorwork, cross-stitch, small appliqués)
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4) cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 4.0 mm (G-6)
- Number of pieces: 1 tubular body with the base included, plus 1 strap and 8 small appliqués sewn on
- Layout: One hanging tube, not a set of joined pieces
- Base size: 6 in (15.2 cm) x 1.75 in (4.4 cm) oval
- Size before border: 12 in (30.5 cm) tall after body Round 60
- Border depth: 0.8 in (2.0 cm), which is 4 rounds of navy rim
Materials
Use a smooth worsted cotton. It holds its shape, keeps the colorwork crisp, and doesn’t stretch much with a full load of bags. Acrylic works too, but the tube will be softer.
- Cream (main color): 100 g / 170 m
- Navy: 50 g / 85 m
- Olive green: 15 g / 25 m
- Yellow: 2 g / 3 m
Tools:
- 4.0 mm (G-6) crochet hook
- Blunt tapestry needle
- 4 locking stitch markers
- Water-soluble pen or tailor’s chalk
- A small handful of fiberfill for the olives
- Optional: plastic canvas cut to 5.75 in x 1.5 in (14.6 cm x 3.8 cm) to stiffen the base
All quantities include a margin of about 20% for the gauge check, carried strands and weaving in ends.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sl st – slip stitch
- inc – 2 sc in the same stitch
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- BLO – back loop only
- rev sc – reverse single crochet (crab stitch)
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sk – skip
Tapestry sc (dot rounds): Lay the unused color along the tops of the stitches and work each sc over it, so the strand stays hidden inside. To change color, work the last sc in the old color until 2 loops are left on the hook. Then yarn over with the new color and pull through.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 18 sc and 20 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in single crochet worked in joined rounds.
The base is your test piece. Make it first and measure it before you start the body.
- After base Round 4: 64 sts; the oval is 6 in (15.2 cm) x 1.75 in (4.4 cm).
- After body Round 15: 3 in (7.6 cm) tall from the base edge.
- After body Round 51: 10.2 in (25.9 cm) tall.
- After body Round 60: 12 in (30.5 cm) tall.
- After Round 64: 12.8 in (32.5 cm) tall.
If the base is longer than 6.25 in (15.9 cm), go down a hook size. If it’s shorter than 5.75 in (14.6 cm), go up a hook size. Don’t change the stitch count, because the colorwork placement depends on 64 stitches.
Base
Work in navy. Join each round with a sl st to the first sc, then ch 1. The ch 1 never counts as a stitch.
Round 1: Ch 23. Sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 20 ch, 3 sc in last ch. Turn the piece and work along the other side of the chain: sc in next 20 ch, 2 sc in the same ch as the first sc. Join. (46 sts)
Round 2: Inc, sc 20, inc 3 times, sc 20, inc 2 times. Join. (52 sts)
Round 3: Sc 1, inc, sc 20, [sc 1, inc] 3 times, sc 20, [sc 1, inc] 2 times. Join. (58 sts)
Round 4: Sc 2, inc, sc 20, [sc 2, inc] 3 times, sc 20, [sc 2, inc] 2 times. Join. (64 sts)
Each long straight side now has 20 sts and each curved end has 12 sts: 20 + 12 + 20 + 12 = 64. Stitches 5–24 are the straight front side.
Body
Every body round has 64 sts. Join each round with a sl st, then ch 1. Change color during the final pull-through of the joining sl st. Carry the unused colors up the inside at the join instead of cutting them.
Round 1 (navy): Sc in BLO of each st. (64) This makes the base edge stand up sharply.
Round 2 (navy): Sc in each st. (64) Place a marker in st 14 to mark the front center.
Rounds 3–4 (cream): Sc in each st. (64)
Round 5 (cream, opening): Sc 9, ch 9, sk 9 sts, sc 46. (55 sc + 9 ch = 64)
Round 6 (cream): Sc 9, sc in each of the 9 ch, sc 46. (64)
Rounds 7–8 (cream): Sc in each st. (64)
Round 9 (navy): Sc in each st. (64)
Round 10 (dot round): [Cream sc, navy sc] 32 times. (64)
Round 11 (navy): Sc in each st. (64)
Round 12 (cream): Sc in each st. (64)
Round 13 (navy): Sc in each st. (64)
Rounds 14–53 (cream): Sc in each st. (64) Rounds 16–51 are the plain picture panel for the olive branch.
Round 54 (navy): Sc in each st. (64)
Round 55 (dot round): [Cream sc, navy sc] 32 times. (64)
Round 56 (navy): Sc in each st. (64)
Rounds 57–58 (cream): Sc in each st. (64)
Round 59 (navy): Sc in each st. (64)
Round 60 (cream): Sc in each st. (64) Fasten off cream.
Checkpoint: the body is now 12 in (30.5 cm) tall from the base edge.
Olive Branch Cross-Stitch
The motif is cross-stitched over the single crochet. Each sc gets one X, so the picture lines up with the stitch grid.
Grid: The picture area is 24 columns wide and 36 rows tall. The columns are body sts 3–26, centered on the front-center marker, and the rows are body Rounds 16–51. That’s about 5.3 in (13.5 cm) x 7.2 in (18.3 cm). Column 1 is the leftmost st and Row 1 is Round 16.
Stem (olive green): With the water-soluble pen, draw a gentle curve from Column 22, Row 4 up to Column 3, Row 32. Fill it with a line of crosses 1 st wide. Then add a short spur 1 st wide from Column 13, Row 17 down to Column 13, Row 14.
Leaves (olive green, make 7): Each leaf is a slanted band of crosses 2 sts wide and 8 rows long. The band moves over 1 column every 2 rows, and both tips narrow to 1 st. Start each leaf on the stem here:
- Column 20, Row 7, growing below the stem toward the lower right
- Column 17, Row 11, growing above the stem
- Column 14, Row 16, growing above the stem
- Column 11, Row 20, growing below the stem
- Column 9, Row 23, growing above the stem
- Column 6, Row 27, growing below the stem
- Column 4, Row 30, as the tip leaf pointing up and to the left
Olives (navy, make 4): Each olive is a block of crosses 3 columns wide and 4 rows tall, with the 2 top corners left empty. That gives you 10 crosses in a rounded shape. Put the lower-left corners of the olives at Column 9, Row 7; Column 13, Row 5; Column 16, Row 9; and Column 12, Row 10. The fourth olive hangs from the spur.
Use a single strand of yarn and keep the crosses relaxed so the fabric doesn’t pucker.
Strap and Appliqués
Strap (navy): Ch 7. Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, then turn. (6 sts) Rows 2–45: Ch 1, sc in each st, then turn. (6 sts) The strap measures 9 in (22.9 cm) x 1.3 in (3.3 cm). Sl st evenly along both long edges and fasten off.
Leaf (olive green, make 3): Ch 9. Sl st in 2nd ch from hook, sc, hdc, dc 2, hdc, sc, 3 sc in last ch. Working along the other side of the chain: sc, hdc, dc 2, hdc, sc, sl st in last ch. (17 sts) Each leaf is 2 in (5.1 cm) long and pointed at the sl st end.
Olive (navy, make 3): Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring. (6) Rnd 2: Inc in each st. (12) Rnds 3–4: Sc in each st. (12) Stuff lightly. Rnd 5: Sc2tog 6 times. (6) Close the hole and fasten off. Each olive is 1 in (2.5 cm) long and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide.
Flower (make 2): In yellow, work 5 sc in a magic ring, join and fasten off. (5) Join cream in any st. Work [sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st] in that st, then move to the next st. Repeat from * 4 more times. (5 petals)* Each flower is 1.25 in (3.2 cm) across.
Border
The border is the navy rim at the top plus the cream trim around the opening. Border gauge matches the body: 18 sts and 20 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm).
Top rim (navy):
Round 61: Sc in each st. (64: 32 front + 32 back)
Rounds 62–63: Sc in each st. (64: 32 front + 32 back)
Round 64: Rev sc in each st. (64: 32 front + 32 back) Fasten off.
Why the math works: The tube has no corners. Its 64 sts split evenly into a 32-st front half and a 32-st back half, and every rim round puts 1 stitch in each existing stitch with no increases. So the rim keeps the body’s 14.2 in (36.1 cm) circumference and doesn’t flare or pull in. At 5 rounds per inch, 4 rounds make the 0.8 in (2.0 cm) rim. That brings the height to 12 in + 0.8 in = 12.8 in (30.5 cm + 2.0 cm = 32.5 cm).
Opening trim (cream):
Round 1: Join cream at the right corner of the slit. Work 9 sc along the lower edge (into the skipped Round 4 sts), 2 sc up the left end, 9 sc into the underside of the chains, and 2 sc down the right end. Join. (22 sts)
Round 2: Sl st in each st. (22) Fasten off.
The 9-st slit is 2 in (5.1 cm) wide. The trim turns it into a firm round cream ring that stretches when you pull a bag through.
Assembly: Sew 1 in (2.5 cm) of each strap end to the inside of the rim, at the center of each curved end. Then build the cluster on the upper right front. First sew the 3 leaves in a fan across Rounds 54–62. Next sew the 3 olives over the leaf bases. Finally, sew the 2 flowers on top so they overlap the rim.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends on the inside, through stitches of the same color.
- If you’re using it, slip the plastic canvas oval into the base.
- Fill the tube snugly with a rolled towel, or use a cardboard tube cut to 12.8 in (32.5 cm).
- Mist the body evenly with water, keeping the appliqués dry.
- Pat the stripes level and square up the base edge.
- Pinch the opening trim into a round shape.
- Let it dry for at least 24 hours before removing the filling.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The base measures 6 in (15.2 cm) x 1.75 in (4.4 cm) and lies flat.
- Every body round has 64 sts, and the joins don’t drift.
- Each dot round shows 32 evenly spaced cream dots.
- The total height is 12.8 in (32.5 cm).
- The opening sits directly below the front-center marker.
- The branch is centered and all the crosses slant the same way.
- Both strap ends are firmly attached.
- Each appliqué is stitched down at several points.
Troubleshooting
- Joins drift sideways: Join into the first sc, not into the ch 1.
- Top flares: Your rim tension is looser than the body. Work the rim with a 3.75 mm (F-5) hook.
- Carried strands show: Tighten your sc and keep the carried strand lying along the stitch tops.
- Cross-stitch puckers: Redo it with looser stitches, or block it flat while damp.
- Opening is too tight: Add a third trim round of sc in the BLO.
- Strap stretches: Remake it with a 3.5 mm (E-4) hook.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap and roll the holder in a towel to press out the water. Reshape it over a rolled towel to dry, and keep it out of the dryer so the cotton doesn’t shrink.
Final Notes
The base sets the 64-st, 14.2 in (36.1 cm) circumference. Sixty straight rounds bring the body to 12 in (30.5 cm). The 0.8 in (2.0 cm) navy rim finishes it at 12.8 in (32.5 cm) tall and 7 in (17.8 cm) wide. If your base meets gauge, everything above it falls into place. For a warmer look, try rust and cream with rust olives.
Happy crocheting!