Plastic grocery bags tend to pile up in a drawer. This holder gives them a tidy, good-looking place on the wall. You push bags in at the open top and pull them out one at a time through the narrower opening at the bottom.
The design is a single seamless tube in soft lavender. Its main feature is a checkerboard “lattice” of square windows in the middle. Solid single crochet bands at the top and bottom keep it firm, and a slim corded loop lets it hang from any hook. It also looks good in light blue, sage, or any kitchen color.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures about 6 in (15.2 cm) wide when flat and 15.5 in (39.4 cm) long, not counting the loop.
You work it from the bottom up in joined rounds. You start with a small ring, increase out to the full width, and work a solid band. Next comes the checkerboard mesh in two-round bands, then a solid top band, and finally a 3-stitch strap for the loop.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat × 15.5 in (39.4 cm) long
- Skill level: Easy–Intermediate
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 (the loop is worked onto the tube)
- Layout: Single tube; no assembly
- Circumference: 12 in (30.5 cm), 48 stitches
- Size before border: 6 in × 13.5 in (15.2 cm × 34.3 cm) after Rnd 36
- Border (top band) depth: 2 in (5.1 cm), 9 rounds
- Bottom opening: 6 in (15.2 cm) around, about 1.9 in (4.8 cm) across
Materials
Yarn: Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape, shows the stitches clearly, and doesn’t stretch much under the weight of a full load of bags. Avoid fuzzy or very stretchy acrylics, which blur the windows.
- Lavender (main color): 130 g / about 220 m (240 yd)
- Optional second holder in Light Blue: another 130 g / about 220 m (240 yd)
These quantities include about a 15% margin for your gauge swatch and weaving in ends.
Tools:
– 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
– 1 stitch marker
– Tapestry needle
– Scissors
– Tape measure
– Rust-proof pins
– A rolled towel or a cardboard tube about 3.75 in (9.5 cm) across, for blocking
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- sk – skip
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- rnd(s) – round(s)
- beg – beginning
- rep – repeat
Special terms:
– Block: 4 dc side by side.
– Window: a ch-4 that skips 4 stitches (or a ch-4 space) in the round below.
– Band: two mesh rounds stacked straight on top of each other, so one block is 2 dc tall and one window is 1 in (2.5 cm) square.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 16 sc and 18 rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in joined rounds. In the mesh, 16 sts and 8 dc rnds = 4 in (10.2 cm). One block is 1 in (2.5 cm) wide, and one band is 1 in (2.5 cm) tall.
The holder is one piece, so the base works as your test piece. Work Rnds 1–7 and check the measurements before you go on.
Checkpoints:
– After Rnd 1: the ring lies flat at about 3 in (7.6 cm) wide.
– After Rnd 7: the flattened tube is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide and about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 16: about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 36 (mesh done): about 13.5 in (34.3 cm) tall.
– After Rnd 45: about 15.5 in (39.4 cm) tall.
If it’s too big (wider than 6.25 in / 15.9 cm flat), go down to a 4.5 mm hook. If it’s too small (narrower than 5.75 in / 14.6 cm), go up to a 5.5 mm hook. Keep the stitch counts exactly as written. The checkerboard depends on multiples of 8.
Pattern
Join every round with a sl st to the first stitch. Turning chains never count as stitches unless the pattern says so. Place a marker in the first stitch of each round.
Base and Bottom Taper
Rnd 1: Ch 24 and join with a sl st to the first ch, making sure the chain isn’t twisted. Ch 1, sc in each ch around, join. (24 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (24 sc)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 5 more times, join. (30 sc)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (30 sc)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 5 more times, join. (36 sc)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 5 more times, join. (42 sc)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st; rep from * 5 more times, join. (48 sc)
Check: the tube should be 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat, or 24 sts per side.
Bottom Solid Band
Rnds 8–16: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48 sc each round; 9 rounds)
Checkerboard Mesh
Every mesh round has 24 dc and 24 chains, for a total of 48 stitches: 6 blocks and 6 windows. When flattened, each side shows 3 blocks and 3 windows.
Rnd 17 (A-start from sc): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 3 sts, ch 4, sk next 4 sts, dc in next 4 sts; rep from * 4 more times, ch 4, sk last 4 sts, join to top of beg ch-3. (24 dc + 24 ch = 48; 6 blocks, 6 windows)
Rnd 18 (A-stack): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in next 3 dc, ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp, dc in next 4 dc; rep from * 4 more times, ch 4, sk last ch-4 sp, join to top of beg ch-3. (48)
This round builds blocks on blocks and windows on windows, so each window is 1 in (2.5 cm) square.
Rnd 19 (B-offset): Ch 4 (counts as first ch-4 sp), sk the remaining 3 dc of the first block, 4 dc in next ch-4 sp, ch 4, sk next 4 dc; rep from * 4 more times, 4 dc in last ch-4 sp, join to 1st ch of beg ch-4. (24 dc + 24 ch = 48)
Blocks now sit over windows, which shifts the checkerboard.
Rnd 20 (B-stack): Ch 4 (counts as ch-4 sp), sk beg ch-4 sp, dc in next 4 dc, ch 4, sk next ch-4 sp; rep from * 4 more times, dc in last 4 dc, join to 1st ch of beg ch-4. (48)
Rnd 21 (A-offset): Sl st in beg ch-4 sp, ch 3 (counts as dc), 3 dc in same sp, ch 4, sk next 4 dc, 4 dc in next ch-4 sp; rep from * 4 more times, ch 4, sk last 4 dc, join to top of beg ch-3. (48)
Rnd 22: Work as Rnd 18. (48)
Rnds 23–36: Work the band pattern this way:
– Rnds 23–24: B (as Rnds 19–20)
– Rnds 25–26: A (as Rnds 21–22)
– Rnds 27–28: B
– Rnds 29–30: A
– Rnds 31–32: B
– Rnds 33–34: A
– Rnds 35–36: B
That gives 10 bands, 20 mesh rounds, and 48 stitches every round. The mesh is 10 in (25.4 cm) tall, and the tube now measures about 13.5 in (34.3 cm).
Border: Top Band and Finishing Edges
This is a single tube, so the “border” is the solid top band, the hanging loop, and a firming round on the bottom opening.
Border gauge: 4 sc = 1 in (2.5 cm) and 4.5 rnds = 1 in (2.5 cm). This is the same as the base, so the top and bottom bands match.
Top Band
Rnd 37 (conversion round): Ch 1, 4 sc in beg ch-4 sp, sc in next 4 dc, 4 sc in next ch-4 sp; rep from * 4 more times, sc in last 4 dc, join. (24 sc worked 1-per-dc + 24 sc worked 4-per-space = 48 sc; 24 per side)
Rnds 38–45: Ch 1, sc in each st around, join. (48 sc each round; 24 per side)
Don’t fasten off.
Why the math works: Each window is 4 chains wide, and you put 4 sc into it. Each block is 4 dc, and you put 1 sc in each. That gives back exactly the 48 stitches of the bottom band, so the top band is the same 6 in (15.2 cm) width and doesn’t flare or pucker.
Hanging Loop
Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in next 2 sts. (3 sc)
Rows 2–30: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st across. (3 sc)
The strap should be about 6.7 in (17.0 cm) long and 0.75 in (1.9 cm) wide.
Attach the strap: Count to sts 25–27 of Rnd 45. They are directly opposite sts 1–3, since 24 stitches separate the two ends on each side. Lay the strap over the rim without twisting it. Sl st through each strap stitch and its matching rim stitch, for 3 sl st in all. Fasten off.
Strap edging: Join yarn at the base of one long edge of the strap. Sl st evenly into each row end, 30 sl st along the edge. Fasten off. Repeat on the other long edge (30 sl st). The edging rounds out the strap so it looks like a cord.
Bottom Opening
Turn the holder upside down and join yarn in any loop of the foundation chain. Sl st in each foundation loop around and join. (24 sl st) Fasten off.
This round keeps the 6 in (15.2 cm) opening from stretching as bags are pulled through.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along the inside, through solid stitches only, not across the windows.
- Soak the holder in cool water for 10 minutes. Gently squeeze out the water; don’t wring it.
- Roll it in a towel and press to remove the extra water.
- Slide the holder over a rolled towel or a cardboard tube about 3.75 in (9.5 cm) across.
- Ease the tube to 12 in (30.5 cm) around and 15.5 in (39.4 cm) long.
- Use your fingertips to square each window, making it 1 in × 1 in (2.5 cm × 2.5 cm).
- Pin the strap flat. Let everything dry completely before hanging.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Rnds 7–45 each have 48 stitches.
- Each mesh round has 6 blocks and 6 windows.
- The checkerboard shifts with every band: 10 bands total, starting with A and ending with B.
- The top and bottom solid bands lie flat, with no flare.
- The strap sits directly opposite its starting point and isn’t twisted.
- The strap’s long edges each have 30 edging sl sts.
- The bottom opening has its sl st round and holds its shape.
- The flat width is 6 in (15.2 cm) at the top band, middle, and lower band.
Troubleshooting
The checkerboard doesn’t line up. You probably repeated an A or B round in the wrong order. Each band is exactly two rounds, and the offset rounds are the first round of each band. Rip back to the last complete band.
The windows look slanted. Joined rounds lean a little. Make your ch-3 or ch-4 snug, and always join into the exact stitch named.
The tube flares above the mesh. You probably worked 5 sc into a window. Rnd 37 must have exactly 48 stitches.
The tube narrows at the mesh. Your chains are too tight. Make each ch-4 match the width of 4 dc, which is 1 in (2.5 cm).
The bottom opening is too loose. Work the sl st round more firmly, or go down one hook size for that round only.
The strap stretches. Use a cotton yarn, and don’t skip the edging rounds. They firm up the strap.
Care
Hand wash cool or machine wash on a gentle cycle in a mesh bag, then reshape and lay flat to dry. Avoid hot dryers, which can shrink cotton and distort the windows.
Final Notes
The measurements build on each other in a simple chain:
– 4 sts = 1 in (2.5 cm), so 48 sts = 12 in (30.5 cm) around, or 6 in (15.2 cm) flat.
– The 24-stitch base gives a 6 in (15.2 cm) bag opening, and it grows to full width in 7 rounds of about 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
– The solid bottom band adds 2 in (5.1 cm).
– 10 mesh bands add 10 in (25.4 cm).
– The 9-round top band adds 2 in (5.1 cm).
– Total: about 15.5 in (39.4 cm).
The conversion round turns 24 dc plus 6 windows back into exactly 48 sc, so the width stays the same from bottom to top. Make one in lavender, another in blue, and keep your bags neat in style.
Happy crocheting!