This little letter H keychain is a warm, earthy accessory with a cottage-garden twist. The letter is worked in terracotta brown yarn with a dense, nubby texture. Three white daisies with yellow centers and four small green leaves decorate it. A short cream loop joins the top of the left upright to a gold split ring, so you can clip it onto a bag handle, a set of keys or a zipper pull.
The style is cozy and handmade. The corners are rounded, the fabric is firm enough to hold its shape, and the appliqués overlap the outer edges for a soft, natural look. This pattern uses US crochet terms throughout.
The finished letter measures 2.7 in (6.9 cm) wide and 3.9 in (9.9 cm) tall, not counting the loop and ring. It is one flat piece with seven tiny appliqués sewn on top.
The construction is simple. You crochet two short lower legs and join them with a chain to make the crossbar, then split again for the two upper legs. One round of single crochet smooths the outline. The daisies, leaves and hanging loop go on last.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 2.7 in x 3.9 in (6.9 cm x 9.9 cm), letter only
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: DK (3) for the letter and loop; fingering (1) cotton for the appliqués
- Hooks: 3.5 mm (E-4) for the letter; 2.25 mm (B-1) for the appliqués
- Number of pieces: 1 letter, plus 3 daisies, 4 leaves and 1 hanging loop
- Layout: a single letter H with vertical uprights and a centered crossbar
- Piece size before border: 2.4 in x 3.6 in (6.1 cm x 9.1 cm)
- Border depth: 0.15 in (0.4 cm) on every edge, from one round of single crochet
Materials
Choose a smooth cotton or cotton-blend yarn for the letter. Cotton keeps the nubby stitch texture crisp and won’t stretch out on a keyring. A soft acrylic DK also works, but the surface will be a little fuzzier.
- Terracotta brown DK: 10 g, about 25 m
- Cream DK (hanging loop): 1 g, about 2 m
- White fingering cotton (petals): 3 g, about 12 m
- Yellow fingering cotton (centers): 1 g, about 4 m
- Green fingering cotton (leaves): 2 g, about 8 m
Tools:
- 3.5 mm (E-4) and 2.25 mm (B-1) crochet hooks
- Gold split key ring, 1 in (2.5 cm) diameter
- Tapestry needle and a fine sewing needle
- Stitch marker
- Blocking mat and rust-proof pins
- Spray bottle and ruler
All quantities include a small margin for checking gauge and weaving in ends.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch = chain
- sl st = slip stitch
- sc = single crochet
- hdc = half double crochet
- dc = double crochet
- sc2tog = single crochet 2 together
- st(s) = stitch(es)
- RS = right side
Special stitch: griddle pattern. Work every row as (sc, dc) repeated across an even number of stitches. Every row ends with a dc, so the first sc of the next row lands in that dc and each dc lands in a sc. Stacking short and tall stitches this way creates the bumpy, seed-like texture you see on the letter.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 5 sts and 5 rows = 1 in (2.5 cm) in griddle pattern with the 3.5 mm hook.
The letter is your gauge swatch. Make it and measure it before you add the border. If your numbers are close to these, the rest of the pattern will fit.
- After Row 7 (one lower leg): 0.8 in (2.0 cm) wide x 1.4 in (3.6 cm) tall
- After Row 11 (crossbar finished): 2.4 in (6.1 cm) wide x 2.2 in (5.6 cm) tall
- After Row 18 (letter before border): 2.4 in (6.1 cm) wide x 3.6 in (9.1 cm) tall
- After the border: 2.7 in (6.9 cm) wide x 3.9 in (9.9 cm) tall
If your letter is too big, use a 3.25 mm hook. If it’s too small or stiff like cardboard, use a 3.75 mm hook. The stitch counts stay the same either way.
The Letter H
Hold the work with the RS facing you and the foundation chain at the bottom.
Lower Leg A
With terracotta and the 3.5 mm hook, ch 5.
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next ch, sc in next ch, dc in last ch, turn. (4 sts)
Rows 2-7: Ch 1 (does not count as a st), (sc, dc) twice, turn. (4 sts)
Fasten off and set aside. Leg A measures 0.8 in (2.0 cm) wide and 1.4 in (3.6 cm) tall.
Lower Leg B
Work Rows 1-7 exactly as for Leg A. Do not fasten off.
Crossbar
Place Leg A to the right of Leg B, with the last rows level. Both legs must have the same side facing you and their foundation chains at the bottom. Leg B’s working yarn should be at its outer left edge, and the last stitch of Leg A should be at its inner left edge, next to the gap.
Row 8: Ch 1, turn, (sc, dc) twice across Leg B, ch 4. Keep going in the same direction and work into the last row of Leg A, starting with its last stitch: (sc, dc) twice, turn. (8 sts + 4 ch = 12 working positions)
Row 9: Ch 1, (sc, dc) across, working 1 st into each st and each ch, turn. (12 sts)
Rows 10-11: Ch 1, (sc, dc) across, turn. (12 sts)
The crossbar is 4 rows, or 0.8 in (2.0 cm), tall. The opening between the lower legs is 4 sts, or 0.8 in (2.0 cm), wide.
Upper Left Leg
Row 12: Ch 1, (sc, dc) twice over the first 4 sts only, turn. Leave the other 8 sts of Row 11 unworked. (4 sts)
Rows 13-18: Ch 1, (sc, dc) twice, turn. (4 sts)
Fasten off.
Upper Right Leg
Skip the next 4 unworked sts of Row 11, which form the top of the crossbar. Join terracotta in the 9th st of Row 11.
Row 12: Ch 1, (sc, dc) twice to the end, turn. (4 sts)
Rows 13-18: Ch 1, (sc, dc) twice, turn. (4 sts)
Fasten off.
Checkpoint: The letter is now 2.4 in (6.1 cm) wide and 3.6 in (9.1 cm) tall. Each upright is 4 sts wide and 18 rows tall in total (7 + 4 + 7).
Border
Border gauge: 5 sc per inch (2.5 cm) along every straight edge. Work 1 sc in each stitch, each chain and each row end. The letter has 5 sts per inch across and 5 rows per inch up, so one sc per stitch or row end keeps the edge flat without stretching or ruffling.
Each leg end has 4 sts, and those 4 already include its 2 corner stitches. You’ll work 3 sc in each corner stitch, which adds 2 extra sc per corner.
Round 1: With the RS facing and the 3.5 mm hook, join terracotta in the first foundation ch at the bottom left corner of Leg B (the left lower leg). Work counterclockwise:
- Left leg bottom: 3 sc in the first ch, sc in the next 2 ch, 3 sc in the last ch. (4 worked 1 per stitch + 4 extra = 8 sc)
- Lower opening: Sc in the row ends of Rows 1-6 on the inner side (6 sc). Sc2tog over the Row 7 end and the first ch of the ch-4 (1 sc). Sc in the next 2 ch (2 sc). Sc2tog over the last ch and the Row 7 end of Leg A (1 sc). Sc in the row ends of Rows 6-1 (6 sc). (16 sc)
- Right leg bottom: 3 sc in the first ch, sc in the next 2 ch, 3 sc in the last ch. (8 sc)
- Right outer side: Sc in each row end from Row 1 to Row 18. (18 sc)
- Right leg top: 3 sc in the first st, sc in the next 2 sts, 3 sc in the last st. (8 sc)
- Upper opening: Sc in the row ends of Rows 18-13 (6 sc). Sc2tog over the Row 12 end and the first skipped st of Row 11 (1 sc). Sc in the next 2 sts (2 sc). Sc2tog over the last skipped st and the Row 12 end of the upper left leg (1 sc). Sc in the row ends of Rows 13-18 (6 sc). (16 sc)
- Left leg top: 3 sc in the first st, sc in the next 2 sts, 3 sc in the last st. (8 sc)
- Left outer side: Sc in each row end from Row 18 down to Row 1. (18 sc)
Join with a sl st to the first sc and fasten off. (100 sc total)
Why the math works: The four leg ends give 4 x 8 = 32 sc. The two outer sides give 2 x 18 = 36 sc. Each opening has 7 + 4 + 7 = 18 edge positions, and the two sc2tog take away 2, leaving 16 sc per opening, or 32 for both. That makes 32 + 36 + 32 = 100 sc. The 3-sc corners round off the 8 outer corners, and the sc2tog decreases keep the 4 inner corners crisp instead of puckered.
Checkpoint: The letter is now 2.7 in (6.9 cm) wide and 3.9 in (9.9 cm) tall. Each upright is 1.1 in (2.8 cm) wide, and each opening is 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide.
Hanging Loop
Find the top edge of the upper left leg and number its 8 border sc from 1 to 8, left to right.
With cream and the 3.5 mm hook, join with a sl st in sc 4. Ch 12, slide the chain through the split ring, then sl st in sc 5. Work 14 sc into the ch-12 loop to cover it, sl st in sc 4 and fasten off. The loop stands about 0.5 in (1.3 cm) above the letter.
Daisies (Make 3)
With yellow and the 2.25 mm hook:
Round 1: Make a magic ring and work 8 sc into it. Join with a sl st to the first sc, pull the ring closed and fasten off. (8 sc)
Round 2: Join white in any sc. Work (sl st, ch 2, 2 dc, ch 2, sl st) in each sc around, then join with a sl st to the first sl st. Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail. (8 petals)
Each daisy measures about 0.9 in (2.3 cm) across.
Leaves (Make 4)
With green and the 2.25 mm hook, ch 6.
Round 1: Sc in the 2nd ch from hook, hdc in the next ch, dc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, 3 sc in the last ch. Then work along the other side of the chain: hdc in the next ch, dc in the next ch, hdc in the next ch, sc in the next ch, and sl st in the skipped ch at the tip. Fasten off, leaving a 6 in (15.2 cm) tail. (11 sts + 1 sl st)
Each leaf is about 0.6 in (1.5 cm) long, with a point at one end and a rounded base at the other.
Appliqué Placement
Lay the letter flat with the RS up.
- Daisy 1: Place it on the upper left leg, centered about 0.6 in (1.5 cm) below the top edge, with the petals slightly overlapping the outer left edge.
- Daisy 2: Place it on the lower left leg, just below the crossbar, also overlapping the outer left edge.
- Daisy 3: Place it on the upper right leg, level with Daisy 1, overlapping the outer right edge.
- Leaves: Tuck one leaf under the upper left side of Daisy 1 and one under the lower left side of Daisy 2. Tuck one leaf under the upper right side of Daisy 3 and one under its lower right side.
Sew each leaf through its base only so the tip stays free. Sew each daisy around its yellow center with small stitches, then tack down every second petal tip. Keep the stitches on the back short and hidden.
Final Blocking
- If you can, block the letter before you sew on the appliqués. Mist it with cool water until it’s damp.
- Lay it RS up on a blocking mat.
- Pin the four outer corners to a 2.7 in x 3.9 in (6.9 cm x 9.9 cm) rectangle.
- Check that both uprights are 1.1 in (2.8 cm) wide and both openings are 0.5 in (1.3 cm) wide.
- Smooth the crossbar so it sits level and centered.
- Let it dry completely, for at least 4 hours.
- Unpin it, then press the daisy petals flat with your fingers.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- The letter measures 2.7 in x 3.9 in (6.9 cm x 9.9 cm)
- The border round has exactly 100 sc
- The uprights are straight, parallel and the same height
- The crossbar is centered and 4 rows tall
- The inner corners are crisp and the outer corners are rounded
- There are three daisies with 8 petals each, sewn on securely
- There are four leaves, with free tips and bases hidden under the petals
- The hanging loop is firm and the ring opens easily
- All ends are woven in on the back
Troubleshooting
The texture looks flat. Make sure every sc goes into a dc and every dc goes into a sc. If you start a row with a dc, the bumps line up and the texture disappears.
The crossbar slants. The legs were placed with different sides facing. Check that both legs show the same side before you work Row 8.
The border ruffles. You worked more than 1 sc per row end. Recount the sides: each outer side needs exactly 18 sc.
The border pulls in. Your tension is tighter on the border than on the letter. Loosen up, or use a 3.75 mm hook for the border round only.
The inner corners pucker. Use sc2tog exactly where the pattern says to, not plain sc.
The daisies cup. The petals are too tight. Use a 2.5 mm hook, or block the daisies flat before you sew them on.
The loop stretches. Make the loop in cotton and work all 14 sc over the chain.
Care
Spot clean with mild soap and cool water, press dry in a towel and reshape flat. Don’t put it in the dryer, and don’t soak the metal ring for long.
Final Notes
Here is the measurement chain. Each lower leg is 0.8 in x 1.4 in (2.0 cm x 3.6 cm). The finished letter body is 2.4 in x 3.6 in (6.1 cm x 9.1 cm) before the border. One round of 100 sc adds 0.15 in (0.4 cm) on every edge, so the finished letter is 2.7 in x 3.9 in (6.9 cm x 9.9 cm). Three 0.9 in (2.3 cm) daisies and four 0.6 in (1.5 cm) leaves complete the look.
If your checkpoint after Row 18 is right, everything after it will fit.
Happy crocheting!