This bag holder brings a bit of the coast into your kitchen. It is a tall dusty-rose tube with an open honeycomb mesh, a cream rim with a corded edge, and two cream starfish sewn to the front. Fill it with plastic bags from the top and pull them out one at a time through the round hole near the bottom.
The colors are soft: dusty rose for the body and strap, and warm cream for the rim and starfish. The open mesh shows the bags inside, so the holder looks light even when it is full.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder measures 6 in (15.2 cm) wide when flat, 3.8 in (9.7 cm) across the base and 16.25 in (41.3 cm) tall, not counting the strap.
You work the whole body in one piece from the bottom up. You start with a flat round base, then work a solid band with a built-in dispensing hole and 20 rounds of chain-loop mesh. A cream rim finishes the top, and a strap is worked straight onto the rim. Last, you make two starfish and sew them on.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat × 16.25 in (41.3 cm) tall
- Circumference: 12 in (30.5 cm)
- Skill level: Easy
- Terminology: US crochet terms
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4), cotton or cotton blend
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 1 body (strap worked on) + 2 starfish appliqués
- Layout: One vertical tube; the starfish sit on the front mesh
- Size before border: 15.5 in (39.4 cm) tall (base, solid band and mesh)
- Border (rim) depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm)
- Strap: 8.6 in (21.8 cm) long; it rises about 3 in (7.6 cm) above the rim when hung
Materials
Use a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape, doesn’t stretch much under the weight of the bags, and makes the stitches look crisp. Avoid fuzzy acrylic, because it blurs the mesh.
- Dusty rose (Color A): 100 g (approx. 170 m)
- Cream (Color B): 15 g (approx. 25 m)
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- 2 locking stitch markers
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Measuring tape
- Pins for placing the appliqués
Yarn amounts include a safety margin of about 20%.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- BLO – back loop only
- MR – magic ring
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sp – space
- rev sc – reverse single crochet
Special stitch – Reverse single crochet (rev sc): Work from left to right (right-handed). Insert the hook into the next stitch to the right, yarn over, pull up a loop, then yarn over and pull through both loops. This makes the twisted, corded edge on the rim.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge: 14 sc × 16 rounds = 4 in (10.2 cm) in solid sc.
Mesh gauge: 10 mesh rounds = 6 in (15.2 cm) when hanging relaxed, so each mesh round is about 0.6 in (1.5 cm).
Work the base and the first 4 band rounds as your test piece. They make a reliable swatch.
Checkpoints:
- After Rnd 4 (24 sts): base is 2.2 in (5.6 cm) across.
- After Rnd 7 (42 sts): base is 3.8 in (9.7 cm) across.
- After Rnd 21: the solid band is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall and the tube is 6 in (15.2 cm) wide flat.
- After Rnd 26 (5 mesh rounds): the mesh is 3 in (7.6 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 41: the body is 15.5 in (39.4 cm) tall.
- After Rnd 44: the body is 16.25 in (41.3 cm) tall.
If your base is too big, go down one hook size (4.5 mm). If it’s too small, go up one size (5.5 mm). Don’t change the stitch counts. If only the mesh height is off, add or remove mesh rounds. Each round changes the height by about 0.6 in (1.5 cm).
Body
The body is worked in joined rounds. Start each round with ch 1, which doesn’t count as a stitch, and work the first sc into the same stitch. Join every round with a sl st to the first sc.
Base (Color A)
Rnd 1: In a MR, ch 1, 6 sc. Join. (6 sts)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st. Join. (12 sts)
Rnd 3: sc 1, 2 sc in next 6 times. Join. (18 sts)
Rnd 4: sc 2, 2 sc in next 6 times. Join. (24 sts)
Rnd 5: sc 3, 2 sc in next 6 times. Join. (30 sts)
Rnd 6: sc 4, 2 sc in next 6 times. Join. (36 sts)
Rnd 7: sc 5, 2 sc in next 6 times. Join. (42 sts)
The base should lie flat and measure 3.8 in (9.7 cm) across.
Solid Band with Dispensing Hole (Color A)
Rnd 8: sc in BLO of each st. Join. (42 sts)
This turns the edge upward and leaves a neat ridge around the base.
Rnds 9–10: sc in each st. Join. (42 sts)
Rnd 11 (hole): sc 17, ch 8, skip 8 sts, sc 17. Join. (17 sc + 8 ch + 17 sc = 42 sts)
Rnd 12: sc 17, work 8 sc into the ch-8 sp (around the chain, not into it), sc 17. Join. (42 sts)
Working around the chain wraps it, which gives the hole a padded edge that stretches into a round opening.
Rnds 13–21: sc in each st. Join. (42 sts)
The opening is 2.3 in (5.8 cm) wide when flat and opens to about 1.5 in (3.8 cm) across once a bag is pushed through. Its bottom edge sits about 1 in (2.5 cm) above the base. Mark the middle of the hole with a stitch marker. This is the front center.
Honeycomb Mesh (Color A)
Rnd 22: ch 1, sc in first st, ch 5, skip 2 sts, sc in next st 13 times, ch 5, skip last 2 sts. Instead of the last ch 5, you can ch 2 and work a dc into the first sc. (14 ch-5 loops; 42 ÷ 3 = 14)
For clean joins on every round, end each round like this: ch 2, dc in the first sc. The ch-2 plus the dc equals one ch-5 loop and puts your hook in the middle of the last loop, ready for the next round.
Rnd 23: ch 1, sc around the post of the joining dc, ch 5, sc in next ch-5 loop 13 times, ch 2, dc in first sc. (14 loops)
Rnds 24–41: Repeat Rnd 23. (14 loops every round)
You now have 20 mesh rounds (Rnds 22–41), which are 12 in (30.5 cm) tall when hanging. The loops stack offset from each other, which makes the hexagonal honeycomb openings. Fasten off Color A.
Checkpoint: The body is now 15.5 in (39.4 cm) tall (3.5 in band + 12 in mesh).
Border (Cream Rim)
Border gauge: the same 14 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm).
When you lay the tube flat with the hole at front center, the rim splits into 21 sts on the front and 21 sts on the back. Since there are no corners, every stitch on each side is an ordinary edge stitch.
Rnd 42 (Color B): Join Color B in any ch-5 loop. ch 1, 3 sc in each ch-5 loop around. Join. (14 loops × 3 sc = 42 sts; 21 front + 21 back)
Rnd 43: sc in each st. Join. (42 sts; 21 front + 21 back)
Rnd 44: ch 1, rev sc in each st. Join. (42 sts; 21 front + 21 back) Fasten off.
Why the math works: The mesh has 14 loops and each loop gets 3 sc, which gives 42. That’s the same count as the base and solid band. With 42 sts at 14 sts per 4 in (10.2 cm), you get a 12 in (30.5 cm) circumference, or 6 in (15.2 cm) flat. The rim matches the band exactly, so it won’t flare or pinch. Three rounds at 0.25 in (0.6 cm) each make the 0.75 in (1.9 cm) rim.
Strap (Color A)
Lay the holder flat with the hole at front center. Put a marker at each side fold of Rnd 44. There should be 21 sts between the markers on each side.
Row 1: Join Color A at the right side marker. ch 30, then sl st into the left side marker stitch.
Row 2: ch 1, turn, sc in each ch across (30 sc), sl st into the starting marker stitch. Fasten off and weave in the ends securely.
The strap is 8.6 in (21.8 cm) long. When you hang it on a hook, it pulls up into a peak about 3 in (7.6 cm) above the rim.
Starfish Appliqués (Color B)
Large Starfish (make 1)
Rnd 1: In a MR, ch 1, 5 sc. Join. (5 sts)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each st. Join. (10 sts)
Rnd 3 (arms): ch 7, working back along the chain from the 2nd ch from hook: sl st, sc, hdc in next 2 ch, dc in next 2 ch (6 sts along the arm), skip next sc of Rnd 2, sl st in following sc 5 times. (5 arms; 5 × 2 sc of Rnd 2 used = 10)
Each arm starts with a sl st at the tip and builds up to dc at the base, so it tapers. Fasten off and leave a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail for sewing. Spread tip to tip, the starfish is about 3.5 in (8.9 cm).
Small Starfish (make 1)
Rnd 1: In a MR, ch 1, 10 sc. Join. (10 sts)
Rnd 2 (arms): ch 5, working back from the 2nd ch from hook: sl st, sc, hdc, dc (4 sts along the arm), skip next sc, sl st in following sc 5 times. (5 arms; 10 sts used)
Fasten off and leave a 10 in (25.4 cm) tail. The small starfish is about 2.25 in (5.7 cm) across.
Attaching
Lay the holder flat with the hole facing you. Pin the large starfish left of center so its top tip is 3 in (7.6 cm) below the rim. Pin the small starfish right of center, about 7 in (17.8 cm) below the rim. Using the tails, whipstitch around each starfish’s edge into the mesh strands behind it. Catch only the front layer so you don’t sew the tube shut. Knot each tail inside and weave it in.
Final Blocking
- Turn the holder right side out and lightly mist it with water.
- Stuff it firmly with plastic bags or a rolled towel 6 in (15.2 cm) wide.
- Shape the base into a flat 3.8 in (9.7 cm) circle and push the dispensing hole round with your fingers.
- Pull the mesh gently downward until the body is 16.25 in (41.3 cm) tall.
- Flatten each starfish arm and pinch the tips into points.
- Hang the holder on a hook or lay it flat until completely dry.
- Take out the stuffing and check the measurements again.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- Base is flat, 3.8 in (9.7 cm) across, with 42 sts in Rnd 7.
- Solid band is 3.5 in (8.9 cm) tall with no ripples.
- Dispensing hole is centered on the front and stretches to about 1.5 in (3.8 cm).
- Every mesh round has exactly 14 loops.
- Body is 15.5 in (39.4 cm) tall before the rim.
- Rim has 42 sts in every round and lies smooth, without flaring.
- Total height is 16.25 in (41.3 cm) and flat width is 6 in (15.2 cm).
- Strap is attached exactly opposite each side and sits evenly.
- Starfish are placed on the front only and are stitched securely at every arm.
- All ends are woven in on the inside.
Troubleshooting
Base cups instead of lying flat. Your tension is too tight or you skipped an increase. Count each round and go up a hook size if needed.
Base ruffles. You added extra increases. Check that Rnd 7 has 42 sts.
Hole is too small for bags. Make sure you skipped 8 sts in Rnd 11 and worked the Rnd 12 sc around the chain, not into it.
Mesh twists around the tube. You put the first sc in the wrong place. Always start each round around the post of the joining dc.
Mesh is too short. Your loops are tight. Add 1–2 mesh rounds, at 0.6 in (1.5 cm) each.
Rim flares. You worked more than 3 sc into some loops. Rnd 42 should total 42.
Starfish curl. Block them flat with pins and let them dry before sewing.
Strap pulls to one side. Count again so there are 21 sts between the markers on each side.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap, press out the water in a towel, and dry the holder flat or hanging while reshaping it. Don’t tumble dry. Heat can shrink cotton and pull the starfish out of shape.
Final Notes
Each measurement leads to the next. A base of 42 sts makes a 12 in (30.5 cm) circumference, so the tube is 6 in (15.2 cm) flat. A solid band of 3.5 in (8.9 cm) plus 12 in (30.5 cm) of mesh brings the body to 15.5 in (39.4 cm). The mesh has 14 loops, and 3 sc in each gives back exactly 42 sts for the rim. The 0.75 in (1.9 cm) cream rim finishes the holder at 16.25 in (41.3 cm). If you check each stage as you go, your holder will hang straight and hold plenty of bags.
Happy crocheting!