The Violet Bloom Plastic Bag Holder is a slim hanging tube that keeps grocery bags tidy and easy to reach. Three layered flower squares run down the front. Each one has a small lavender center, a ring of eight deep teal petals, and a larger ring of eight lavender petals behind them, all framed in solid teal.
It uses only two colors, deep teal and soft lavender. The cottage style suits a pantry door, a laundry shelf, or a kitchen wall hook.
This pattern uses US crochet terms. The finished holder is 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide when flat and 15.5 in (39.4 cm) long, not counting the handle. The tube is 9 in (22.9 cm) around.
The holder is built from six squares. You make three flower squares for the front and three plain teal squares for the back. All six are 4.5 in (11.4 cm) with 19 stitches per side. You whipstitch them into two strips and seam the strips into a tube. Then you add a top rim, a narrowed bottom rim with a lavender band, and a teal strap handle. Bags go in the top and come out the bottom.
Finished Size and Construction
- Finished size: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide flat x 15.5 in (39.4 cm) long; circumference 9 in (22.9 cm)
- Skill level: Intermediate (back-post stitches, layered petals)
- Terminology: US
- Yarn weight: Worsted (#4)
- Hook: 5.0 mm (H-8)
- Number of pieces: 6 squares (3 flower, 3 plain); the rims and handle are worked directly onto the tube
- Layout: 2 columns x 3 rows, joined into a tube (flower squares in the front column, plain squares in the back column)
- Piece size: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) square, 19 sts per side
- Size before border: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) flat x 13.5 in (34.3 cm) long
- Border depth: top rim 0.75 in (1.9 cm); bottom rim 1.25 in (3.2 cm)
- Handle: strap 1 in (2.5 cm) wide x 6 in (15.2 cm) long
Materials
Choose a smooth worsted-weight cotton or cotton blend. Cotton holds its shape when the tube is packed with bags, and the handle won’t stretch. Acrylic also works, but the holder will be softer and slightly longer.
The amounts below assume yarn of about 175 m per 100 g.
- Color A, deep teal: 85 g, approx. 150 m (164 yd)
- Color B, lavender: 30 g, approx. 55 m (60 yd)
Tools:
- 5.0 mm (H-8) crochet hook
- Yarn needle
- Scissors
- Stitch markers (4)
- Tape measure
- Blocking mat and rust-proof pins
- Spray bottle
The quantities include an extra margin of about 15 percent for gauge swatches and weaving in ends.
Abbreviations (US Terms)
- ch – chain
- sl st – slip stitch
- sc – single crochet
- hdc – half double crochet
- dc – double crochet
- tr – treble crochet
- sc2tog – single crochet 2 together
- sp – space
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- RS – right side
- WS – wrong side
Special stitch: back-post single crochet (bpsc). From the back of the work, insert the hook from right to left around the post of the stitch indicated, so the hook comes out at the back again. Yarn over, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops. This places the new stitch behind the previous round, so the next layer of petals sits underneath.
Gauge and Checkpoints
Gauge is 17 sc and 16 rows = 4 in (10.2 cm). On the plain square, each dc round adds about 0.45 in (1.1 cm) to each side.
Make one flower square first and measure it before you make the rest. Checkpoints:
- After Round 5 (lavender petals): about 3 in (7.6 cm) across, petal tip to petal tip
- After Round 7: about 3.25 in (8.3 cm) square
- After Round 8: about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) square
- After Round 9: about 4 in (10.2 cm) square
- After Round 10: 4.5 in (11.4 cm) square
Plain square: about 2.75 in (7.0 cm) after Round 3 and 4.5 in (11.4 cm) after Round 5.
If your square is larger than 4.75 in (12.1 cm), switch to a 4.5 mm hook. If it is smaller than 4.25 in (10.8 cm), switch to a 5.5 mm hook. The flower squares and plain squares must be within 0.125 in (0.3 cm) of each other, or the seams will pucker.
Flower Square (make 3)
Each finished square has 19 sts per side, counted between the corner ch-2 spaces. The corner ch-2 spaces are not counted as stitches.
Round 1 (B): Magic ring, ch 1, 8 sc in ring, sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (8 sts)
Round 2 (A): Join A in any sc. Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in same st, 2 dc in each st around, sl st to top of ch-3. (16 dc)
Round 3 (A), inner petals: In next st work (sc, hdc, dc); in next st work (dc, hdc, sc); repeat from * 7 more times, sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (48 sts: 8 teal petals of 6 sts each)
Round 4 (B), petal frame: Working behind Round 3, join B with a bpsc around the post of the first Round 2 dc under any petal. Ch 5, bpsc around the post of the first Round 2 dc under the next petal, ch 5; repeat from * 6 more times, sl st to first bpsc. (8 bpsc, 8 ch-5 loops)
Round 5 (B), outer petals: Sl st into the first ch-5 loop. In each ch-5 loop work (sc, hdc, 2 dc, tr, 2 dc, hdc, sc). Sl st to first sc. Fasten off. (72 sts: 8 lavender petals of 9 sts each)
The lavender petals now sit behind and between the teal petals, so the flower looks like two stacked layers.
Round 6 (A), square frame: Working behind Round 5, join A with a bpsc around any Round 4 bpsc. Ch 6, bpsc around the next Round 4 bpsc, ch 6; repeat from * 6 more times, sl st to first bpsc. (8 bpsc, 8 ch-6 loops)
Round 7 (A), squaring: Sl st into the first ch-6 loop. Ch 2 (counts as hdc), (hdc, sc, 2 hdc) in same loop; this is a side loop. In the next loop work (2 dc, tr, ch 2, tr, 2 dc); this is a corner loop. (2 hdc, sc, 2 hdc) in next loop, (2 dc, tr, ch 2, tr, 2 dc) in next loop; repeat from * 2 more times, sl st to top of ch-2. (44 sts: 11 per side, plus 4 corner ch-2 sps)
Round 8 (A): Ch 1, sc in each st around, working (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner ch-2 sp. Sl st to first sc. (52 sts: 13 per side)
Round 9 (A): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each st around, working (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each corner sp. Sl st to top of ch-3. (68 sts: 17 per side)
Round 10 (A): Ch 1, sc in each st around, working (sc, ch 2, sc) in each corner sp. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off, leaving a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail for seaming. (76 sts: 19 per side)
Plain Square (make 3)
Round 1 (A): Magic ring, ch 3 (counts as dc), 2 dc in ring, ch 2, 3 dc in ring, ch 2; repeat from * 2 more times, sl st to top of ch-3. (12 dc: 3 per side)
Round 2 (A): Ch 3 (counts as dc), dc in each dc, working (2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc) in each corner sp, sl st to top of ch-3. (28 dc: 7 per side)
Round 3 (A): Repeat Round 2. (44 dc: 11 per side)
Round 4 (A): Repeat Round 2. (60 dc: 15 per side)
Round 5 (A): Repeat Round 2. Fasten off, leaving a 24 in (61.0 cm) tail. (76 dc: 19 per side)
Each round adds 4 sts per side, 2 at each end of the side.
Make All Pieces
- Flower squares: 3 (Colors A and B)
- Plain squares: 3 (Color A only)
Layout grid, as the holder hangs (the front and back columns wrap into a tube):
FRONT BACK
[ F1 ] [ B1 ] <- top
[ F2 ] [ B2 ]
[ F3 ] [ B3 ] <- bottom
F = flower square, B = plain square. The two long edges of the front column join the two long edges of the back column to close the tube.
Joining
Join with a flat whipstitch through the back loops only, using the yarn needle and Color A.
Step 1, front strip: Lay F1 above F2, RS up, with the edges touching. Whipstitch through the corner ch-2 sps of both squares, then through each of the 19 stitch pairs, then through the corner ch-2 sps at the other end. That is 21 whipstitches per seam. Join F2 to F3 the same way.
Step 2, back strip: Join B1 to B2 and B2 to B3 the same way.
Step 3, close the tube: Lay the two strips side by side, RS up, and whipstitch the right edge of the front strip to the left edge of the back strip. Each square side takes 21 whipstitches, so each long seam is 63 whipstitches. Fold so the RS faces out, and join the remaining long edges the same way.
Every seam joins one stitch to one stitch, so you add or lose no fabric. Pull each whipstitch just until the edges meet and lie flat. If the seam ripples, you are pulling too hard.
Checkpoint: the tube lies flat at 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide and 13.5 in (34.3 cm) long.
Border
The border uses the main gauge, 17 sc = 4 in (10.2 cm). Each end of the tube has two square edges of 19 sts each. Work only into those 19 sts on each square, skipping the corner ch-2 sps and the seams. That gives 2 x 19 = 38 sts around. At 17 sc per 4 in (10.2 cm), 38 sc measure about 9 in (22.9 cm), which matches the tube circumference. The rim will neither flare nor pull in.
Top Rim
Work in Color A along the top edge of F1 and B1.
Round 1: Join A in the first st of F1 after the right-hand seam. Ch 1, sc in each of the 19 sts across F1, then sc in each of the 19 sts across B1. Sl st to first sc. (38 sc: 19 front, 19 back)
Rounds 2–3: Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (38 sc)
Fasten off. Top rim depth: 0.75 in (1.9 cm).
Handle
Number the Round 3 sts from 1 to 38, starting with the first front stitch: sts 1–19 are the front and sts 20–38 are the back. Place markers in sts 18 and 21, and in sts 37 and 2.
Row 1: Join A in st 18. Ch 1, sc in sts 18, 19, 20, and 21. (4 sc)
Rows 2–24: Ch 1, turn, sc in each st. (4 sc)
Fasten off, leaving a 12 in (30.5 cm) tail. Bring the strap over the opening without twisting it, and whipstitch the 4 sts of Row 24 to sts 37, 38, 1, and 2. For a firmer edge, work 1 sl st into each row end along both long sides of the strap. The finished strap is 1 in (2.5 cm) wide and 6 in (15.2 cm) long.
Bottom Rim
Work along the bottom edge of F3 and B3.
Round 1 (A): Join A in the first st of F3 after a side seam. Ch 1, sc in each of the 19 sts across F3 and each of the 19 sts across B3. Sl st to first sc. (38 sc)
Round 2 (A): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 17 sts; repeat from * once. Sl st to first sc. (36 sc: 18 per side)
Round 3 (A): Ch 1, sc2tog, sc in next 4 sts; repeat from * 5 more times. Sl st to first sc. Fasten off A. (30 sc: 15 per side)
Round 4 (B): Join B in any st. Ch 1, sc in each st around, sl st to first sc. (30 sc)
Round 5 (B): Repeat Round 4. Fasten off. (30 sc)
The bottom rim is 1.25 in (3.2 cm) deep. Its 30 sc measure about 7 in (17.8 cm) around, so the opening is about 3.5 in (8.9 cm) across when flat. That is snug enough to hold the bags in but loose enough to pull one out.
Final Blocking
- Weave in all ends along the seams on the WS.
- Slide a rolled towel or a cardboard tube into the holder to keep it round.
- Mist the holder evenly until it is damp but not soaked.
- Pat the body to 4.5 in (11.4 cm) wide flat and 13.5 in (34.3 cm) long, plus the rims.
- Use your fingertips to shape each petal so the teal and lavender layers lie flat and separate.
- Pin the handle straight at 6 in (15.2 cm).
- Let it dry completely, then remove the towel or tube.
Final Quality-Control Checklist
- All 6 squares measure 4.5 in (11.4 cm) and have 19 sts per side.
- Each flower shows 8 teal petals in front and 8 lavender petals behind.
- All three flowers face the same direction.
- Every seam lies flat, with no gaps at the corners.
- The top rim has 38 sc, and the bottom rim ends with 30 sc.
- The holder measures 4.5 in (11.4 cm) x 15.5 in (39.4 cm).
- The handle sits centered over the side seams and isn’t twisted.
- All ends are woven in securely.
Troubleshooting
Petals cup or curl. Your tension is too tight on Round 3 or Round 5. Loosen up, or go up half a hook size for those two rounds only.
Lavender petals show unevenly. In Round 4, make sure each bpsc goes around the first dc under each teal petal.
Square is not square. Recount Round 7. The corner and side loops must alternate exactly.
Seams pucker. Whipstitch more loosely, and check that both squares have 19 sts per side.
Top rim flares. You probably worked a stitch into a corner sp or seam. Recount to 38 sc.
Bags fall out the bottom. Add one more decrease round: sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts around. (24 sc)
Handle stretches. Use cotton, and add the sl st edging along both sides of the strap.
Care
Hand wash in cool water with mild soap. Press the water out in a towel, then dry the holder over a rolled towel. Don’t wring it or tumble dry it.
Final Notes
The measurement chain is short and easy to check. A gauge of 17 sc and 16 rows per 4 in (10.2 cm) gives a 4.5 in (11.4 cm) square with 19 sts per side. Six squares in a 2 x 3 grid make a tube 9 in (22.9 cm) around and 13.5 in (34.3 cm) long. The rims add 0.75 in (1.9 cm) at the top and 1.25 in (3.2 cm) at the bottom, for a finished length of 15.5 in (39.4 cm). The 38-stitch rims match the tube exactly, and the bottom narrows to 30 sts to hold your bags in place.
Measure at each checkpoint and the holder will come together cleanly.
Happy crocheting!